ASTM D1908-89

Test Method for Needle-Related Damage Due to Sewing in Woven Fabrics (Withdrawn 1998)

General Information

• Status: Withdrawn
• Withdrawal Date: 09-Feb-1998
• ICS: 59.080.30 - Textile fabrics
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.54 - Subassemblies

Standards Content (Sample)

ASTM DI708 87 I 0757530 002358b b W N - 3L-25
AMERICAN SOCIETY FOR TESTINO AND MATERIALS
4& Designation: D 1908 - û9
1918 Race SI., Philallphia, Pa. 19103
Rsprinled Irom the Annual Book 01 MM Standards, Copyright ASTM
II na1 listed in lhe current 60mbinrcl Ink. will appear in the MXI ediilon.
Standard Test Method for
Needle-Reaated Damage Que to Sewing in Woven Fabric'
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 1908; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parzathwes indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (0 indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle
1. Scope
passing through a fabric during sewing.
1.1 This test method evaluates the damage caused by
3.1.3 refirbish, v-as applied to textile products, to
sewing machine needles when a specific sewn seam assembly
brighten or freshen up and restore to wearability or use by
is used for a woven fabric.
cleaning such as drycleaning, laundering or steam cleaning.
1.2 The index of needle damage as determined by this test
3.1.4 seam allowance, n-in sewn fabrics, the distance
method is significant only for the fabric and sewn seams
from the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest
being evaluated using this test method.
from that edge.
1.2.1 The index compiles the damage done by fusing,
3.1.5 seam assembly, n-the composite structure ob-
deflection, or severance of yarns in the fabric tested.
tained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.
1.3 The sewn seams to be indexed should be taken from
3.1.5.1 Discussion-A sewn seam assembly may be de-
either previously sewn articles or from sewn seams prepared
of the fabric orientation, seam direction,
scribed in terms
in accordance with a prescribed seam assembly.
seam type, stitch type, seam allowance, sewing thread tex
1.4 The index produced by this test method can be used
ticket rnumber(s) and type(s), stitch density, stitch gage, and
to determine proper needle selection for a particular fabric.
rows of stitching.
1.5 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
3.1.6 seam damage, n-in sewn fabrics, any change in the
standard. The values stated in inch-pound units are provided
physical condition of one or more of the components in a
for information only.
seam which reduces seam effciency.
1.6 This standard may involve hazardoas materials, oper-
3.1.7 seam type, n-in sewn seams, an alphanumeric
ations, and equipment. This standard does not purport to
designation relating to the essential characteristics of fabric
address all of the safety problems associated with its use. It is
positioning and rows of stitching in a specified sewn fabric
the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish
seam.
appropriate safety and health practices and determine the
3.1.4.1 Discussion-Seam types are described in Fed. Std.
applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
No. 751a.
sewn seam, n-in sewn fabrics, a juncture at which
3.1.8
2. Referenced Documents
two or more planar structures such as textile fabrics, are
2.1 ASTM Standards:
joined by sewing, usually near the edge.
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles2
3.1.9 stitch, n-in sewn seams, the repeated unit formed
D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Limited
by the sewing thread in the production of seams.
Apparel Fabrics3
3.1.10 stitch density, n-in sewn seams, the number of
2.2 Federal Standard:
stitches per unit length in one row of stitching in the seam,
No. 75 la Stitches, Seams and Stitchings4
3.1.1 1 stitch gage, n-in sewn fabrics, the perpendicular
2.3 AATCC Method:
distance between adjacent parallel rows of stitching.
143 Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Prod-
3.1.12 stitch type, n-in sewn seams, a numerical designa-
ucts After Repeated Home Laundering'
tion relating to the essential characteristics of the interlacing
of sewing thread@) in a specified stitch.
3. Terminology
3.1.12.1 Discussion-Stitch types are described in Fed.
3.1 Definit ions:
Std. No. 751a.
3.1.1 grin, v-in sewn seams, to stress a seam so that the
3.1.13 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
individual stitches can be seen.
method, rekr to Terminology D 123.
3.1.2 needle damage, n-in sewn fabrics, the partial or
4. Summary of Test Method
4.1 Seams taken from manufactured items already sewn
I This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on
Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee DI354 on Consumee
or seams prepared in accordance with a prescribed seam
Product Performance.
assembly, or an assembly agreed upon by purchaser and
Current edition approved June 30, 1989. Published August 1989. Originally
supplier are evaluated to determine the damage caused by
published as D 1908
...