ASTM D6193-11
(Practice)Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams
Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch type, seam configuration, and thread type which should be used for a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of many variables. The improper selection of any one component can result in failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failure of the product manufactured.
General Characteristics—The characteristics of a properly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability, security, and appearance. These characteristics must be balanced with the properties of the material to be joined to form the optimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will govern the relative importance of these characteristics. The selection of the seam type and stitch type should be based upon these considerations.
Strength—The seam efficiency of the sewn seam should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam strength with a balanced construction that will withstand the forces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elements affecting the strength of a sewn seam are:
Fabric type and strength,
Seam type,
Stitch type,
Stitch density (spi),
Thread tension, and
Thread strength.
Elasticity—The elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. This will enable the material to support its share of the forces encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The elasticity of a sewn seam depends upon:
Fabric type and strength,
Seam type,
Stitch type,
Stitch density (spi),
Thread tension, and
Thread elasticity.
Durability—The durability of a sewn seam depends largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam and the elasticity of the material. However, in less elastic, tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for the plies to “work” or slide on each other. To form a durable sewn seam in these types of fabrics, the thread size must be carefully chosen. The stitch density also needs to be carefully determine...
SCOPE
1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear:
1.3.1 Section Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch ,
1.3.2 Section Classification of Seam Types for which drawings are shown in Seam , and
1.3.3 Seam Assembly Recommendations.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
General Information
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Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D6193 − 11
StandardPractice for
1
Stitches and Seams
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D6193; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1. Scope proper thread size relationship or shortened bartack stitched
length then it will fail under stress. Bartacking, because of the
1.1 Thispracticecoverstherequirementsandcharacteristics
stitch density, can exhibit severe needle-cutting, thus creating a
of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.
self-destructive characteristic if number of stitches is
1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and
excessive, or sewing needle or thread size is too large for
general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the
fabric. Bartacking is specified strictly as a relationship between
fabrication of sewn items.
length,widthorthrowandtotalstitches.Itdoesnotincorporate
1.3 Subsequenttoageneraldiscussionofstitchesandseams
stitches per inch as a typical seam may specify.
that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the
3.1.1.2 Discussion—Counting finished bartack stitches is
following sections that are listed in the order in which they
virtually impossible since the overall process consists of three
appear:
components. The process begins in a horizontal position to
1.3.1 Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which
achieve the required length and then forms the familiar zig-zag
drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,
stitch-line along the horizontal plane including backstitching at
1.3.2 Section 6—Classification of Seam Types for which
both ends to lock in the zig-zag stitches to prevent raveling.
drawings are shown in Seam Figs. 70-288, and
The zig-zag stitches criss-cross the initial horizontal stitch line
1.3.3 Annex A1—Seam Assembly Recommendations.
thus virtually hiding the initial stitch line.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
3.1.2 needle damage, n—in sewn fabrics, the partial or
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
passing through a fabric during sewing.
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
3.1.2.1 Discussion—This can also be referred to as needle
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
cuts.
2. Referenced Documents
3.1.3 seam, n—a line where two or more fabrics are joined,
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
usually near the edge. See also sewn seam, glued seam, stapled
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
seam, thermally bonded seam.)
3.1.4 seam allowance, n—in sewn fabrics, the distance from
3. Terminology
the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that
3.1 Definitions:
edge.
3.1.1 bartack, n—a reinforcement stitch that effectively
minimizes tearing at the ends of critical stress stitchlines.
3.1.5 seam assembly, n—the composite structure obtained
3.1.1.1 Discussion—Examples of critical stress stitchlines when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.
include: ends of seams, zippers, pocket flaps, crotch/seat
3.1.6 seam damage, n— in sewn fabrics, an adverse change
seams, collars, webbing and other components. If the bartack-
in the physical condition of one or more of the components in
ing process exhibits an insufficient number of stitches, im-
aseamwhichwouldreducetheseamacceptabilitysuchasyarn
slippage, needle damage, or fabric rupture.
1
ThispracticeisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextilesand
3.1.7 seam effıciency, n—in sewn fabrics, the ratio of seam
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
Current edition approved Jan. 1, 2011. Published May 2011. Originally approved
strength to fabric strength.
in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 2009 as D6193 – 09. DOI: 10.1520/
3.1.7.1 Discussion—For some constructions, yarn strength
D6193-11.
2
andstitchtypecancontributetoahigherseamefficiencyvalue.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
3.1.8 seam slippage, n—in sewn fabrics, the displacement
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website. of the fabric yarn parallel and adjacent to the stitch line.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
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D6193 − 11
TABLE 1 St
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This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation:D6193–09 Designation: D6193 – 11
Standard Practice for
1
Stitches and Seams
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D6193; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope
1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabrication
of sewn items.
1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the
following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear:
1.3.1 Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,
1.3.2 Section 6—Classification of Seam Types for which drawings are shown in Seam Figs. 70-288, and
1.3.3 Annex A1—Seam Assembly Recommendations.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
limitations prior to use.
2. Referenced Documents
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 bartack, n—a reinforcement stitch that effectively minimizes tearing at the ends of critical stress stitchlines.
3.1.1.1 Discussion—Examples of critical stress stitchlines include: ends of seams, zippers, pocket flaps, crotch/seat seams,
collars, webbing and other components. If the bartacking process exhibits an insufficient number of stitches, improper thread size
relationship or shortened bartack stitched length then it will fail under stress. Bartacking, because of the stitch density, can exhibit
severe needle-cutting, thus creating a self-destructive characteristic if number of stitches is excessive, or sewing needle or thread
size is too large for fabric. Bartacking is specified strictly as a relationship between length, width or throw and total stitches. It
does not incorporate stitches per inch as a typical seam may specify.
3.1.1.2 Discussion—Counting finished bartack stitches is virtually impossible since the overall process consists of three
components. The process begins in a horizontal position to achieve the required length and then forms the familiar zig-zag
stitch-line along the horizontal plane including backstitching at both ends to lock in the zig-zag stitches to prevent raveling. The
zig-zag stitches criss-cross the initial horizontal stitch line thus virtually hiding the initial stitch line.
3.1.2 needle damage, n—in sewn fabrics, the partial or complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle passing
through a fabric during sewing.
3.1.1.1
3.1.2.1 Discussion—This can also be referred to as needle cuts.
3.1.2
3.1.3 seam, n—a line where two or more fabrics are joined, usually near the edge. See also sewn seam, glued seam, stapled
seam, thermally bonded seam.)
3.1.3
1
This practice is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies .
Current edition approved Jan. 15, 2009.1, 2011. Published March 2009.May 2011. Originally approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 20042009 as
D6193–97(2004).D6193 – 09. DOI: 10.1520/D6193-09.10.1520/D6193-11.
2
For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
1
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D6193 – 11
TABLE 1 Stitch and Seam Defects
Stitch Defects Seam Assembly Defects
Loose stitches Puckers
Poorly formed stitches Twists
Crowded stitches Plaits
Tight stitches Undulations
Crooked stitches Run-off (raised seams)
Skipped stitches Raw edges exposed
(felled seams)
NOTE 1—This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread that shall be passed through the material and interlo
...
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