ASTM D584-96
(Test Method)Standard Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool-Laboratory Scale
Standard Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool-Laboratory Scale
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers a laboratory procedure for the determination of the wool base content and the clean wool fiber present in samples of raw wool. This test method is also applicable to other animal fibers such as mohair, cashmere, alpaca, and camel hair.
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
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Designation:D584–96
Standard Test Method for
Wool Content of Raw Wool—Laboratory Scale
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 584; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope chrometer (the Measurement of Wet- and Dry-Bulb Tem-
peratures)
1.1 This test method covers a laboratory procedure for the
2.2 Other Standard:
determinationofthewoolbasecontentandthecleanwoolfiber
IWTO-19-85 (E) Method for the Determination of Wool
present in samples of raw wool. This test method is also
Base, Vegetable Matter Base; IWTO Clean Wool Content;
applicable to other animal fibers such as mohair, cashmere,
IWTO Scoured Yield in Raw Wool
alpaca, and camel hair.
NOTE 1—Sampling of lots of raw wool in packages is covered in 3. Terminology
Practice D 1060; the determination of vegetable matter and other alkali-
3.1 Definitions:
insoluble impurities in scoured wool is covered in Test Method D 1113;
3.1.1 clean wool fiber present, n—in raw wool, the mass of
thedeterminationofwoolcontentonacommercialscaleiscoveredinTest
wool base present in the raw wool, adjusted to a moisture
Method D 1334. For factors for the conversion of woolbase content to its
content of 12 %, an alcohol-extractable content of 1.5 %, and a
equivalent in terms of scoured wool, top, or noil of various commercially
specified compositions (formerly covered in the appendix of this test mineral matter content of 0.5 %.
method), refer to Practice D 2720.
3.1.2 other alkali-insoluble impurities, n—in scoured wool,
NOTE 2—Because of the trade practice the term weight is used in this
the oven-dried, ash-free, alcohol-extractives-free, alkali-
test method instead of the technically correct term mass.
insoluble substances other than vegetable matter base, such as
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the
skin, cotton or other fibers, paper, string, tag (dung) pieces, and
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
paint pieces, and so forth.
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
3.1.3 oven-dried, adj—the condition of a material that has
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
been heated under prescribed conditions of temperature and
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
humidity until there is no further significant change in its mass.
3.1.3.1 Discussion—The conditions prescribed in this test
2. Referenced Documents
method are heating to 105 6 2°C in a forced-draft oven
2.1 ASTM Standards:
supplied with air from an atmosphere having a relative
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
humidity of 65 6 2 % at a temperature of 20 6 2°C. A
D 584 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool–Labo-
temperature of 20 6 2°C is used in this test method instead of
ratory Scale
21.1 6 1°C because international testing is frequently in-
D 1060 Practice for Core Sampling of Raw Wool in Pack-
volved.
ages for Determination of Percentage of Clean Wool Fiber
3.1.4 raw wool, n—wool or hair of the sheep in the greased,
Present
pulled, or scoured state.
D 1113 Test Method for Vegetable Matter and Other Alka-
3.1.5 vegetable matter base, n—in raw wool, oven-dried
li–Insoluble Impurities in Scoured Wool
scoured burrs, seeds, twigs, leaves, and grasses, free mineral
D 1334 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool—
matter and alcohol-extractable matter.
Commercial Scale
3.1.6 vegetable matter present, n—in raw wool, the weight
D 2525 Practice for Sampling Wool for Moisture
of vegetable matter base present in the raw wool, adjusted to a
D 2720 Practice for Calculation of Commercial Weight and
moisture content of 12 %, an alcohol-extractives content of
Yield of Scoured Wool, Top, and Noil for Various Com-
1.5 %, and a mineral matter content of 0.5 %.
mercial Compositions
3.1.7 wool base, n—oven-dried scoured wool free of
E 337 Test Method for Measuring Humidity with a Psy-
alcohol-extractable matter, mineral matter, vegetable matter,
and all impurities.
ThistestmethodisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD-13onTextiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Wool Felt.
Current edition approved Oct. 10, 1996. Published February 1997. Originally Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 11.03.
published as D 584 – 40 T. Last previous edition D 584 – 94. Specifications of Test Methods, International Wool Textile Organization,
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01. International Wool Secretariat, Ilkley, West Yorkshire, U.K. LS298PB.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D584
3.1.8 yield, n—in raw wool, the combined weight of clean United States provides a statutory formula for calculating the
wool fiber present and vegetable matter present, as a percent- allowance to be made for wool “that would ordinarily be lost
age of the raw wool weight . during commercial cleaning operations.” The formula is based
3.1.9 For definitions of other textile terms used in this test on the clean wool fiber present (called“ absolute clean content”
method, refer to Terminology D 123. in the Tariff Schedules) and on the vegetable matter present.
The allowance, in terms of clean wool fiber present, is equal to
4. Summary of Test Method
0.5 % of the clean wool fiber present plus 60 % of the
vegetable matter present, the total allowance not to exceed
4.1 The entire sample, or each test specimen drawn there-
15 % of the clean wool fiber present. The dutiable quantity
from in a specified manner, is weighed, scoured, dried, and
(called “clean yield” in the Tariff Schedules) is the difference
reweighed. The oven-dry scoured wool is tested to determine
between the clean wool fiber present and the allowance so
its content of alcohol-extractable matter, mineral matter (ash),
calculated.
vegetable matter base, and other alkali-insoluble impurities.
The wool-base content, laboratory scoured yield, clean wool
6. Apparatus
fiber present, and vegetable matter present are calculated as
percentages of the mass of the raw wool sample.
6.1 Subsampling Equipment—A cylindrical or rectangular
chamber having a sliding cover plate by means of which wool
5. Significance and Use
inthechambermaybecompressed,andopeningsinthebottom
plate through which cores may be bored with a sampling tube
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for accep-
approximately12mmininsidediameter.Theopeningsshallbe
tance testing of commercial shipments since this test method
about 18 mm in diameter and spaced uniformly on 40 to
has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.
50-mm centers over the entire plate. The volume of the
5.1.1 In case of dispute arising from differences in reported
test results when using Test Method D 584 for acceptance chamber must be sufficient to contain the sample, but the
relative dimensions are optional. For greasy wool samples
testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the sup-
plier should conduct comparative testing to determine if there weighing 10 kg, a chamber 300 by 300 by 700 mm is
satisfactory. A replaceable inner lining of soft wood or similar
is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent
statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of material for the sliding cover plate is recommended to avoid
damage to the cutting edge of the sampling tube.
bias.As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test
specimens that are as homogenous as possible and that are 6.1.1 Sampling Tube—Similar to that used to obtain core
samples, as described in Practice D 1060.
from a lot of the type material in question. The test specimens
should then be assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory 6.2 Scouring Equipment—A scouring bowl with accesso-
ries, and a flotation jar.
for testing. The average results from the two laboratories
should be compared using Student’s t-test for unpaired data 6.2.1 Scouring Bowl—Arectangular or cylindrical vessel of
30 to 50-L capacity, with an attached drain board. The lower
and an acceptable probability level chosen by the two parties
portion of the bowl is in the shape of an inverted pyramid or
before testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must
conethatisconnectedtoasliding-diskvalveandashortlength
be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must
of drain pipe. At the bottom of the bowl, above the valve and
agree to interpret future test results in the light of known bias.
drain pipe, is a close-fitting, removable perforated plate
5.2 The wool-base content of wool in any condition or form
(6.2.1.1). The drain pipe is centered over a No. 200 (75-µm)
is a basic quantity. From it may be calculated commercial
sieve, 120 to 200 mm in diameter, supported in a catch-basin.
masses or yields in any of the various recognized defined
6.2.1.1 Two Plates, one with 1 to 2-mm openings, the other
systems used in international commerce (Note 1).
5.2.1 The procedures for determining the wool base content similar plate covered on its upper surface with No. 100
(150-µm) woven wire cloth.
of greasy wool provided in this test method and in IWTO
Method 19-85(E) are in essential agreement. 6.2.1.2 Thermostatic Device, capable of delivering water to
the scouring bowl at a desired temperature with a tolerance of
NOTE 3—This is not true for scoured wool, as IWTO Method 19-85(E)
63°C.
does not require rescouring of scoured wool containing less than 5%
6.2.1.3 Paddle or other Stirring Device.
residual grease.
6.2.1.4 Spray or Shower Head with a flexible connection
5.3 Not all of the wool base present in a lot of raw wool can
for use in rinsing.
be recovered in useful form by commercial cleaning opera-
6.2.2 Flotation Jar—Aglass or transparent plastic vessel of
tions. The amount of wool loss varies, depending on factors
1 to2-Lcapacity, approximately 200 mmtall, for separating by
such as the character of the wool, the nature and percentage of
flotation the short wool fibers retained by the No. 200 (75-µm)
the impurities present, the cleaning process and equipment
sieve from associated sand and other heavy impurities.
used, and so forth.
6.3 Wringer or Basket Centrifuge, for the removal of excess
5.4 No ASTM standard specifies or recommends any spe-
water from the scoured sample before drying in the oven.
cific procedure or practice for estimating anticipated loss of
wool during commercial cleaning (or other) operations. The
followingstatutorypracticeisdescribedsolelyforinformation:
5.4.1 For the purpose of duty assessment on importations of
Tariff Schedules of the United States, Schedule 3. Part 1, Subpart C, Headnote
raw wool into the United States, the Tariff Schedules of the 1 (c).
D584
6.3.1 Net Bag, having openings of 60 mesh (250 µm) or required. Consider the maximum scouring capacity of the bowl
finer. Bags are used with a squeeze roll type of wringer or with to be the mass of raw wool in grams equal to 12 times the
a centrifuge. volume of scouring solution in litres.
6.3.2 Metal Can, with bottom formed from 100-mesh (150- 8.3.1 If the sample is a core sample, no further preparation
µm) wire screen supported by a perforated metal plate may be is required. If it is not a core sample and consists of fibers
used with basket centrifuges. The dimensions of the can must exceeding 50 mm in length, cut the fibers with scissors or a
be such that the can is capable of containing the scoured paper cutter to less than 50-mm lengths.
sample, fitting into the centrifuge, and adaptable to the dryer. 8.4 Large Samples—Ifthemassofthesampleexceedsthree
6.4 Dryer—A forced-draft oven or, preferably, a heated air times the scouring capacity of the bowl (8.3), prepare test
flow-through type of dryer capable of supplying clean air at a specimens by subsampling as follows:
desired temperature with a tolerance of 62°C. 8.4.1 Place the sample in the chamber of the subsampling
6.5 Muffle Furnace, thermostatically controlled in the range device(6.1),compresstoadensityof0.2to0.3g/cm ,andtake
of 700 6 25°C. a full-length core through each opening of the plate.
6.6 Soxhlet Extraction Apparatus, medium size. 8.4.2 Open the chamber, redistribute the wool, compress
and take a second test specimen as in 8.4.1. Repeat 8.4.2 until
7. Reagents the desired mass of core samples are obtained.
8.4.3 Remove, weigh, and retain the remainder of the
7.1 Scouring Solution A—A solution containing approxi-
sample in an airtight container for use in drawing additional
mately 0.3 % of soda ash (Na CO ) and 0.1 % of soap having
2 3
test specimens, if necessary or desired.
a titer of not over 25°C. Addition to the solution of approxi-
8.4.4 Weigh the blended core samples into individual test
mately 0.3 % of a lime-sequestering agent of the polyphos-
portions in preparation for scouring (10.1).
phate type is recommended.
7.2 Scouring Solution B—A solution containing approxi-
9. Conditioning
mately 0.15 % of Na CO and 0.05 % of soap having a titer of
2 3
not over 25°C.Addition to the solution of approximately 0.3 % 9.1 Neitherpreconditioningnorconditioninginthestandard
of a lime-sequestering agent of the polyphosphate type is atmosphere for testing is required.
recommended.
10. Procedure
NOTE 4—For nonreferee tests, various scouring solutions containing
10.1 Scouring—Scour each portion of the sample (8.3) or
nonionic detergents, with or without soda ash or builders, at various
temperatures, are sometimes used instead of Scouring SolutionsAand B. each test specimen (8.4.1, 8.4.2) as directed in 10.1.1 or 10.1.2,
whichever is applicable.
7.3 Washing Solution—A solution containing approxi-
10.1.1 Greasy or Pulled Wool:
mately 0.02 % of a nonionic detergent of the polyoxyethylene
10.1.1.1 With the coarse perforated plate in place in the
type.
scouring bowl, immerse the wool in Scouring Solution A at a
7.4 Alcohol—Either pure ethyl alcohol (C H OH) or spe-
2 5
temperature of 52 6 3°C (not less than 1 L for each 12 g of
ciallydenaturedalcoholconformingtoFormula3Aor30ofthe
wool)andstirfor3min.DrainthesolutionthroughtheNo.200
U.S. Bureau of Internal Revenue.
(75-µm) sieve. Spray the wool with a strong stream of warm
water (35 to 45°C) so as to flush out as much as possible of
8. Preparation of Sample and Test Specimens
sand and other soil, then remove the wool from the bowl and
8.1 For the sampling of commercial shipments take a lot
place it on the drain board. Raise the plate, and remove and
sample as directed in an applicable material specification, or as
discard any impuritie
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