ASTM D5646-13
(Terminology)Standard Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing
Standard Terminology Relating to Seams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing
SCOPE
1.1 This terminology covers basic stitches made by sewing machines designed for home use and provides a uniform, easily understood language for the definitions and descriptions of seams and seam finishes used in home sewing.
1.1.1 These terms and definitions are not necessarily consisten with those used in the apparel or home furnishings manufacturing industries.
1.1.1.1 This terminology provides a common base for use in the preparation of educational materials and pattern guide sheets for home sewing.
1.1.1.2 Each stitch is identified with a definition, a discussion of how the stitch is formed and might be used and an illustration of one or more possible stitch patterns. This terminology does not include stitches made by sergers, hemmers, or by attachments to the home sewing machines.
1.1.1.3 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on a conventional sewing machine or by hand.
1.1.1.4 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropriate if equipment other than the conventional sewing machine is available.
1.1.1.5 Section 3, Terminology, is categorized into two subsections, specific to the two areas of specialization under this document: Relating to Seams and Relating to Stitches.
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
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Designation: D5646 − 13
Standard Terminology Relating to
1
Seams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D5646; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
3
1. Scope 2.2 Federal Standard:
Fed. Std. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching
1.1 This terminology covers basic stitches made by sewing
machinesdesignedforhomeuseandprovidesauniform,easily
3. Terminology
understood language for the definitions and descriptions of
seams and seam finishes used in home sewing.
RELATING TO SEAMS
1.1.1 These terms and definitions are not necessarily con-
back side, n—in textile materials, the side of the material that
sisten with those used in the apparel or home furnishings
faces innermost in the completed product. (Ant. face side,
manufacturing industries.
right side. Syn. wrong side.)
1.1.1.1 This terminology provides a common base for use in
the preparation of educational materials and pattern guide
bound seam-finish, n—in home sewing,aseamfinishinwhich
sheets for home sewing.
another material is used to enclose the cut edges of one or
1.1.1.2 Each stitch is identified with a definition, a discus-
more seam allowances. (Compare Hong Kong seam finish.)
sion of how the stitch is formed and might be used and an
(See Fig. 1.)
illustration of one or more possible stitch patterns. This
DISCUSSION—A bound seam-finish is made by (1) enclosing the cut
seam allowance edge(s) in another fabric and (2) machine stitching
terminology does not include stitches made by sergers,
through all thicknesses close to the edge of the binding. Material used
hemmers, or by attachments to the home sewing machines.
may be strips of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric or lightweight knit
1.1.1.3 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on
fabricsuchastricotornet.Iftapeorbindingisused,thewiderfoldside
a conventional sewing machine or by hand.
of the tape or binding is positioned underneath the seam allowance.
1.1.1.4 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropri-
Usually each seam allowance edge is enclosed individually; however,
ate if equipment other than the conventional sewing machine is
seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one, such as the
armscye seam allowances of an unlined jacket or on a bound neckline.
available.
1.1.1.5 Section 3, Terminology, is categorized into two
clean-finish seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in
subsections, specific to the two areas of specialization under
which the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edge
this document: Relating to Seams and Relating to Stitches.
stitched. (See Fig. 2.) (Syn. turned and stitched seam
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the
finish.)
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
DISCUSSION—Aclean-finish seam finish is made by (1) turning under
1
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro- each cut edge of a plain seam allowance approximately 3 to 6 mm ( ⁄8
1
to ⁄4 in.) and (2) stitching close to the folded edge.Astabilizing line of
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
1 1
stitching 3 to 6 mm ( ⁄8 to ⁄4 in.) from a curved cut edge will facilitate
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
turning before stitching close to the fold.
2. Referenced Documents
complex seam, n— in home sewing, a seam made in two or
2
more steps. (Ant. plain seam.)
2.1 ASTM Standards:
DISCUSSION—Complex seams have one or more stitching lines as part
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
of their construction and include double-welt seams, flat-felled seams,
D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
French seams, lapped seams, mock French seams, slot seams, tucked
seams, and welt seams. They do not include plain seams or seam
finishes or decorative additions to seams.
1
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
double-welt seam, n—in home sewing, a complex seam
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
formed on the inside of the product, in which one trimmed
Current edition approved Jan. 1, 2013. Published February 2013. Originally
approved in 1994. Last previous edition approved in 2011 as D5646 – 11. DOI:
10.1520/D5646-13.
2 3
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or Printed in 1965 as Federal Standard No. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching,
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM General Services Administration, Washington, D.C. 20407. Available from Stan-
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page
...
This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: D5646 − 11 D5646 − 13
Standard Terminology Relating to
1
Seams and Stitches Used in Home Sewing
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D5646; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This terminology covers basic stitches made by sewing machines designed for home use and provides a uniform, easily
understood language for the definitions and descriptions of seams and seam finishes used in home sewing.
1.1.1 These terms and definitions are not necessarily consisten with those used in the apparel or home furnishings manufacturing
industries.
1.1.1.1 This terminology provides a common base for use in the preparation of educational materials and pattern guide sheets
for home sewing.
1.1.1.2 Each stitch is identified with a definition, a discussion of how the stitch is formed and might be used and an illustration
of one or more possible stitch patterns. This terminology does not include stitches made by sergers, hemmers, or by attachments
to the home sewing machines.
1.1.1.3 These seams and seam finishes may be produced on a conventional sewing machine or by hand.
1.1.1.4 Other seam types or finishes may be more appropriate if equipment other than the conventional sewing machine is
available.
1.1.1.5 Section 3, Terminology, is categorized into two subsections, specific to the two areas of specialization under this
document: Relating to Seams and Relating to Stitches.
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
limitations prior to use.
2. Referenced Documents
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
3
2.2 Federal Standard:
Fed. Std. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching
3. Terminology
RELATING TO SEAMS
back side, n—in textile materials, the side of the material that faces innermost in the completed product. (Ant. face side,right side.
Syn. wrong side.)
bound seam-finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in which another material is used to enclose the cut edges of one or more
seam allowances. (Compare Hong Kong seam finish.) (See Fig. 1.)
1
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
Current edition approved Jan. 1, 2011Jan. 1, 2013. Published February 2011February 2013. Originally approved in 1994. Last previous edition approved in 20082011 as
D5646 – 96 (2008).D5646 – 11. DOI: 10.1520/D5646-11.10.1520/D5646-13.
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
3
Printed in 1965 as Federal Standard No. 751a, Stitches, Seams and Stitching, General Services Administration, Washington, D.C. 20407. Available from Standardization
Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
DISCUSSION—
A bound seam-finish is made by (1) enclosing the cut seam allowance edge(s) in another fabric and (2) machine stitching through all thicknesses close
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D5646 − 13
FIG. 1 Bound Seam Finish from Back Side of Fabric
to the edge of the binding. Material used may be strips of lightweight bias-cut woven fabric or lightweight knit fabric such as tricot or net. If tape or
binding is used, the wider fold side of the tape or binding is positioned underneath the seam allowance. Usually each seam allowance edge is enclosed
individually; however, seam allowances may be placed together and treated as one, such as the armscye seam allowances of an unlined jacket or on
a bound neckline.
clean-finish seam finish, n—in home sewing, a seam finish in which the cut edge is folded under and the fold line is edge stitched.
(See Fig. 2.) (Syn. turned and stitched seam finish.)
DISCUSSION—
1 1
A clean-finish seam finish is made by (1) turning under each cut edge
...
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