Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics

SCOPE
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams.Note 1
The grab test procedure in Test Method D 5034 shall be used to determine any characteristic in fabric that can affect the measurement of sewn seam strength.
1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric samples using either a specific seam assembly (see Table 1), or production seam assemblies.
1.2 This test method is used when a breaking force to rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required to determine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or seam integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.Note 2
This test method is used in conjunction with Test Method D 5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics. Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, or any combination thereof. Rupture can be further categorized as failure or fabric, or sewing thread, or seam slippage.
1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear performance of a seam.
1.4 The values stated in either acceptable metric units (SI) or in other units shall be regarded separately as standard. The values expressed in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore each system must be used independently of the other, without combining values in any way.
This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

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Historical
Publication Date
30-Jun-2007
Technical Committee
Drafting Committee
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Ref Project

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ASTM D1683-07 - Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
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Designation: D1683 – 07
Standard Test Method for
1
Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope 2. Referenced Documents
2
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in 2.1 ASTM Standards:
woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles
seams. D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
NOTE 1—The grab test procedure in Test Method D5034 shall be used
D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation
todetermineanycharacteristicinfabricthatcanaffectthemeasurementof
of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
sewn seam strength.
D5822 Test Method for Determining Seam Strength in
1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained
Inflatable Restraint Cushions
from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric
D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
samples using either a specific seam assembly (seeTable 1), or
production seam assemblies.
3. Terminology
1.2 This test method is used when a breaking force to
3.1 Definitions:
rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required to
3.1.1 needle damage, n—in sewn fabrics, the partial or
determine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or seam
complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle
integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.
passing through a fabric during sewing.
NOTE 2—This test method is used in conjunction with Test Method 3.1.2 seam allowance, n—in sewn fabrics,thedistancefrom
D5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textile
the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that
fabrics. Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, or
edge.
any combination thereof. Rupture can be further categorized as failure or
3.1.3 seam assembly, n—the composite structure obtained
fabric, or sewing thread, or seam slippage.
when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.
1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear perfor-
3.1.3.1 Discussion—A seam assembly may be described in
mance of a seam.
terms of fabric orientation, seam direction, seam type, stitch
1.4 The values stated in either acceptable metric units (SI)
type, seam allowance, sewing thread tex number(s) and type(s)
or in other units shall be regarded separately as standard. The
stitch density, stitch gage, and rows of stitching.
values expressed in each system may not be exact equivalents;
3.1.4 seam effıciency, n—in sewn fabrics, the ratio, ex-
therefore each system must be used independently of the other,
pressed as a percentage, of the breaking force required to
without combining values in any way.
rupture a sewn seam to that required to rupture the fabric.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the
3.1.5 seam engineering, n—in sewn fabrics, the procedures
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
used to select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
type, seam type, and stitch density to achieve the maximum
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
sewn seam strength for a particular fabric type.
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
3.1.6 seam failure, n—in sewn fabrics, that point at which
an external force (1) ruptures the sewing thread, (2) ruptures
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 onTextiles
2
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies. For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
Current edition approved July 1, 2007. Published August 2007. Originally contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
approved in 1990. Discontinued in 1999 and reinstated in 2004 as D1683–04. Last Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
previous edition approved in 2004 as D1683–04. DOI: 10.1520/D1683-07. the ASTM website.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
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D1683 – 07
A
TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly Specification
Fabric: High Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine Count Yarns
2 2 2 2
Mass up to 270 g/m (8 oz/yd ) over 270 g/m (8 oz/yd )
Seam allowance 13 mm
...

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