ASTM D204-02(2021)
(Test Method)Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads
Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the individual test method. These test methods are the best available and are used extensively in the trade.
4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more) comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
SCOPE
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing threads of any fiber.
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not address any other properties that may be important for the satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular end use conditions.
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the following properties:
Sections
Colorfastness to Drycleaning
73 – 83
Colorfastness to Laundering
62 – 72
Colorfastness to Water Migration
84 – 94
Diameter
43 – 50
Length per Thread Holder
34 – 42
Shrinkage, Single Strand
51 – 61
Dry Heat
58.1
Boiling Water
58.2
Strength and Elongation
15 – 21
Single Strand—Conditioned
19.1.1
Single Strand—Wet
19.1.2
Loop Strength
19.2
Knot Strength
19.3
Twist
22 – 27
Twist Balance
28 – 33
Yarn Number
7 – 14
Note 1: For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test Methods D1683/D1683M and D3940.
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D204 − 02 (Reapproved 2021)
Standard Test Methods for
Sewing Threads
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D204; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1. Scope 1.6 This international standard was developed in accor-
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
threads of any fiber.
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of
sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not
2. Referenced Documents
address any other properties that may be important for the
2.1 ASTM Standards:
satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
end use conditions.
D1422/D1422M TestMethodforTwistinSingleSpunYarns
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the follow-
by the Untwist-Retwist Method
ing properties:
D1423/D1423M Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-
Sections Counting
Colorfastness to Drycleaning 73–83
D1683/D1683M Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of
Colorfastness to Laundering 62–72
Woven Fabrics
Colorfastness to Water Migration 84–94
Diameter 43–50 D1776/D1776M Practice for Conditioning and Testing Tex-
Length per Thread Holder 34–42
tiles
Shrinkage, Single Strand 51–61
D1777 Test Method for Thickness of Textile Materials
Dry Heat 58.1
Boiling Water 58.2
D1907/D1907M Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn
Strength and Elongation 15–21
(Yarn Number) by the Skein Method
Single Strand—Conditioned 19.1.1
D2256/D2256M Test Method forTensile Properties ofYarns
Single Strand—Wet 19.1.2
Loop Strength 19.2
by the Single-Strand Method
Knot Strength 19.3
D2258/D2258M Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
Twist 22–27
D2724 Test Method for Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused,
Twist Balance 28–33
Yarn Number 7–14 and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
D3693 Specification for Labeled Length per Holder of
NOTE 1—For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test
Sewing Thread
Methods D1683/D1683M and D3940.
D3823 Practice for DeterminingTicket Numbers for Sewing
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
Threads
standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are
D3940 Test Method for Bursting Strength (Load) and Elon-
provided for information only and are not considered standard.
gation of Sewn Seams of Knit or Woven Stretch Textile
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the 3
Fabrics (Withdrawn 1995)
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
D4848 Terminology Related to Force, Deformation and
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
Related Properties of Textiles
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1 2
These test methods are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
Textiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Fibers. Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
CurrenteditionapprovedJuly1,2021.PublishedJuly2021.Originallypublished the ASTM website.
as D204 – 24 T. Last previous edition approved in 2016 as D204 – 02 (2016). DOI: The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
10.1520/D0204-02R21. www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D204 − 02 (2021)
2.2 AATCC Standards: 5. Sampling
Test Method 135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home
5.1 LotSample—Asalotsampleforacceptancetesting,take
Laundering of Woven and Knit Fabrics
at random the number of shipping units directed in an
Evaluation Procedure 1, Gray Scale for Color Change
applicable material specification or other agreement between
Evaluation Procedure 3, Chromatic Transference Scale
the purchaser and the supplier, such as an agreement to use
Practice D2258/D2258M. Consider shipping cases or other
3. Terminology
shipping units to be the primary sampling units.
3.1 Definitions:
NOTE 2—An adequate specification or other agreement between the
3.1.1 Refer to Terminology D4848 for definitions of the
purchaserandthesupplierrequirestakingintoaccountvariabilitybetween
following terms used in this standard elongation; force and
shipping units, between packages, or ends within a shipping unit, and
loop-breaking force.
betweenspecimensfromasinglepackagesoastoprovideasamplingplan
3.1.2 Refer to Terminology D4849 for definitions of the
with a meaningful producer’s risk, consumer’s risk, acceptable quality
following terms used in this standard colorfastness; covered level, and limiting quality level.
yarn, greige thread, growth, sew, sewing force, sewing thread,
5.2 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for accep-
tex, thread holder, ticket number, and yarn number.
tance testing, take at random from each shipping unit in the lot
3.1.3 Refer to Terminology D123 for definitions of other
sample the number of packages or ends directed in an
terms used in this standard including the following; shrinkage,
applicable material specification or other agreement to use
stitch, stitching, stitch type, and twist balance.
Practice D2258/D2258M. Preferably, the same number of
packages should be taken from each shipping unit in the lot
4. Significance and Use
sample. If differing numbers of packages are to be taken from
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods
shipping units in the lot sample, determine at random which
D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread
shipping units are to have each number of packages drawn.
are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commer-
5.3 Test Specimens—From each package in the laboratory
cial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the
sample, take three specimens, unless otherwise specified.
individual test method. These test methods are the best
When packages contain more than one parallel wound end,
available and are used extensively in the trade.
select one end from which to prepare the three specimens.
4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance be-
tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more)
6. Conditioning
comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a
statistical bias between them using competent statistical assis-
6.1 For routine testing, condition the samples as directed in
tance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative
Practice D1776/D1776M.
teststhatareashomogeneousaspossible,drawnfromthesame
6.2 When preconditioning is specified in a material specifi-
lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results
cation or contract order precondition the prepared specimens
during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers
foratleast3hinanatmospherewithrelativehumiditybetween
to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories
10 % and 25 % and a temperature not exceeding 50 °C
involved should be compared using a statistical test for
(122 °F) as directed in Practice D1776/D1776M.
unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing
6.2.1 After preconditioning, expose the specimens to mov-
series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and
ing air in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, 21 °C 6
corrected, or future test results for that material must be
1 °C (70 °F 6 2 °F) and 65 % 6 2 % relative humidity, until
adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
the mass of the specimen(s) increases by no more than 0.1 %
after2hinthe standard atmosphere.
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709-2215, http://
www.aatcc.org.
YARN NUMBER
7. Scope 9. Significance and Use
9.1 This test method should be used to establish standard
7.1 This test method determines the resultant yarn number
ticket numbers for sewing threads according to Practice
of all types of sewing threads taken from a thread holder.
D3823.
8. Summary of Test Method
10. Apparatus
8.1 Ameasured length of conditioned thread is wound on a
10.1 Reel:
reel and weighed. The resultant yarn number is expressed in
10.1.1 General—A hand or motor-driven reel having a
tex. specified perimeter. The reel shall be fitted with a traversing
D204 − 02 (2021)
TABLE 2 Number of Wraps to be Reeled in Any One Skein in
mechanism that will avoid bunching the successive wraps, and
Checking Length by Skein Method
with an indicator of the length wound.Awarning bell that will
1.5 yd Reel
ring at a specified length is recommended. It is advisable that
Resultant Yarn Number 1 m Reel Perimeter
Perimeter
one arm be collapsible to allow for easy removal of skeins.
All thread finer than 50 tex 200 wraps 200 wraps
10.2 Balance: 200 m 300 yd
Threads of 50 tex up to 100 tex 100 wraps 100 wraps
10.2.1 For the determination of mean yarn number, a
100 m 150 yd
balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-
All threads 100 tex and coarser 50 wraps 50 wraps
50 m 75 yd
tivity of 1 part in 100.
10.2.2 For ascertaining the completion of conditioning, a
balance of suitable capacity graduated in grams with a sensi-
tivity of 1 part in 1000 needed.
13. Report
11. Conditioning
13.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
11.1 Use skeins wound with the given wraps as noted in
Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
Table 1 and follow the directions given in Section 6.
and the method of sampling used.
12. Procedure
13.2 Report the following information:
12.1 Determine the resultant yarn number in tex as directed
13.2.1 Mean yarn number to three significant figures,
in Option 1 of Test Method D1907/D1907M, except that in
13.2.2 Coefficient of variation of yarn number to two
placeofTable2inTestMethodD1907/D1907MuseTable1of
significant figures,
Test Methods D204.
13.2.3 Reel perimeter,
13.2.4 Length of skein, and
TABLE 1 Number of Wraps for Determining Resultant Yarn
13.2.5 Number of specimens.
Number
1.5 yd Reel
Resultant Yarn Number 1 m Reel Perimeter 14. Precision and Bias
Perimeter
All thread finer than 250 tex 100 wraps 80 wraps 14.1 The precision and bias for testing yarn number are as
100 m 120 yd
given in Test Method D1907/D1907M.
All threads 250 tex and coarser 10 wraps 8 wraps
10 m 12 yd
STRENGTH AND ELONGATION
15. Scope including: straight breaking strength, loop breaking strength,
loop elongation, elongation at sewing force, and knot strength.
15.1 Thistestmethodcanbeusedtodeterminesinglestrand
17.1.1 Straight Strength—The straight breaking strength of
breaking force and elongation of sewing threads. Single strand
a thread can be used to calculate the loop breaking strength
testing includes loop strength, knot strength and elongation at
once a regression equation has been determined because the
sewing forces.
loop properties are strongly dependent on the straight strength.
15.2 This international standard was developed in accor-
17.1.2 Loop Strength—The loop breaking strength is a
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
measure of the thread’s ability to contribute to seam perfor-
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
mance. Loop breaking strength of a thread bears a direct
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
relationship to stitch breaking strength and hence to seam
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
breaking strength.
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
17.1.3 Loop Elongation—The loop elongation of the thread
16. Summary of Test Method is one important factor contributing to elongation of a seam,
along with the stitch and seam type, the number of stitches per
16.1 Single strand yarn specimens are broken on a tensile
inch, and the nature of the material stitched.
testing machine at a predetermined elongation rate and the
17.1.4 ElongationatSewingForce—The elongation at sew-
tensile properties are determined.
ingforceofathreadinfluencesitsbehaviorduringthestitching
16.2 The test method offers the following three physical
cycle on a sewing machine.
configurations of the specimen:
17.1.5 Knot Strength—The reduction in breaking force due
16.2.1 straight,
to the presence of a knot is considered a measure of the
16.2.2 looped,
brittleness of the thread.
16.2.3 knotted.
18. Conditioning
17. Significance and Use
17.1 There are several properties of sewing thread that are 18.1 Condition the specimens as directed in Section 6 of
significant with regards to sewing and seam performance, these Test Methods D204.
D204 − 02 (2021)
19. Procedure force-extension chart, or display at a force of 227 g ( ⁄2 lb) for
thread used for seams in light-weight fabrics in the 0.135 g⁄m
19.1 Straight Strength and Elongation:
to270g/m,or(4 oz⁄ydto8oz/yd)rangeandataforceof340 g
19.1.1 Conditioned Threads—Select conditioned specimens
( ⁄4 lb) for thread used for seams in heavy fabrics 270 g⁄m to
and determine breaking force and elongation as directed in
0.520 g/m (8 oz⁄yd to 15 oz/yd).
Option A1 of Test Method D2256/D2256M except that a
250 mm 6 3 mm (10.0 in. 6 0.1 in.) or 500 mm 65mm
20. Report
(20.0 in. 6 0.2 in.) gage length and a constant-rate-of-
extension (CRE) type tensile testing machine having a jaw
20.1 State that the specimens were tested as directed in Test
separation rate of 300 mm⁄min 6 10 mm/min (12.0 in.⁄min 6
Methods D204. Describe the material(s) or product(s) sampled
0.5 in./min) shall be used. Disregard the 20 s to break
and the method of sampling used.
requirement.
20.2 Report the following information:
19.1.2 Wet Threads—Select conditioned specimens and de-
20.2.1 Options if other than A1,
terminethebreakingforceandel
...
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