ASTM D4845-10(2018)

Standard Terminology Relating to Wool

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 30-Jun-2018
• ICS: 01.040.59 - Textile and leather technology (Vocabularies)
• ICS: 59.060.10 - Natural fibres
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.13 - Wool and Felt

Relations

• Replaces: ASTM D4845-10e2 - Standard Terminology Relating to Wool
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2018
• Refers: ASTM D1060-10(2018) - Standard Practice for Core Sampling of Raw Wool in Packages for Determination of Percentage of Clean Wool Fiber Present
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2018
• Refers: ASTM D6466-10(2018) - Standard Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers By Sirolan-Laserscan Fiber Diameter Analyser
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2018
• Refers: ASTM D4845-10(2018) - Standard Terminology Relating to Wool
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2018
• Refers: ASTM D584-10(2018) - Standard Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool—Laboratory Scale
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2018
• Refers: ASTM D123-17 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Mar-2017
• Refers: ASTM D123-15b - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Apr-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-13a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13ae1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-May-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-12 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Feb-2012
• Refers: ASTM D123-12e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Feb-2012
• Refers: ASTM D584-10 - Standard Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool-Laboratory Scale
• Effective Date: 01-Jun-2010

Overview

ASTM D4845-10(2018), Standard Terminology Relating to Wool, establishes a comprehensive set of standard definitions and terminology for wool and related fibers. Developed by ASTM International, this document supports clear, consistent communication among professionals in the wool and textile industries, as well as in research, commerce, and regulation. Adopting standardized terminology is essential for ensuring quality, safety, and effective trade of wool products worldwide.

Key Topics

• Wool Types and Classifications: Defines various categories of wool, including raw wool, scoured wool, grease wool, virgin wool, recycled wool, and specific designations such as Merino, pulled wool, and noil.
• Animal Fibers: Covers terms not only for sheep wool but also for related animal fibers like alpaca, mohair, cashmere, and specialty fibers from camels, llamas, and vicuñas.
• Fiber Properties and Measurements: Provides definitions for critical fiber properties such as average fiber diameter, fineness, medullated fibers (kemp, med, and cashmere coarse-hair), staple length, tenacity, and tensile strength.
• Processing Terms: Includes terms related to fiber and textile manufacturing, including carded wool, combing wool, worsted yarn, woolen yarn, felt, and needled felt.
• Testing and Analysis: Covers terminology associated with sampling, laboratory testing, chemical composition, moisture content, pH, and extractable matter.
• Commercial and Legal Designations: Standardizes legal definitions as set by acts such as the Wool Products Labeling Act, assisting compliance and accurate labeling.

Applications

ASTM D4845 is widely used across the wool and textile sectors for multiple reasons:

• Quality Control: Ensures consistent interpretation of test results and quality benchmarks in wool production and processing by defining standardized terms.
• Trade and Commerce: Facilitates seamless international trade of wool and animal fibers by providing a common language for contracts, specifications, and shipping documentation.
• Product Labeling and Compliance: Helps manufacturers and marketers comply with regulations such as the Wool Products Labeling Act, reducing the risk of mislabeling and improving product transparency.
• Research and Development: Enables clear technical communication in scientific studies, innovation projects, and the development of new wool products or blends.
• Education and Training: Supports training materials and educational resources with precise, internationally recognized terminology.
• Testing Laboratories: Laboratories rely on this standard for interpreting specifications and results in wool fiber analysis and product testing.

Related Standards

ASTM D4845 references and aligns with several other ASTM standards and test methods relevant to wool and related animal fibers, including:

• ASTM D123: Terminology Relating to Textiles
• ASTM D2252: Specification for Fineness of Types of Alpaca
• ASTM D519, D2524, D1294: Test Methods for Fiber Length, Breaking Tenacity, and Tensile Strength of Wool Fibers
• ASTM D1576, D2462: Methods for Determining Moisture Content in Wool
• ASTM D3991, D3992: Specifications for Fineness of Wool and Mohair
• ASTM D2475: Specification for Felt
• ASTM D1060: Practice for Core Sampling of Raw Wool in Packages

Using ASTM D4845 in conjunction with these related ASTM standards ensures a robust approach to wool quality, testing, specification, and classification.

Keywords: ASTM D4845, wool terminology, wool standards, textile definitions, animal fibers, wool testing, wool quality, commercial wool, wool products labeling, wool processing, international textile standards.

Standards Content (Sample)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D4845 − 10 (Reapproved 2018)
Standard Terminology Relating to
Wool
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4845; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Referenced Documents Fibers by Microprojection
D2165 TestMethodforpHofAqueousExtractsofWooland
1.1 ASTM Standards:
Similar Animal Fibers
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D2252 Specification for Fineness of Types ofAlpaca (With-
D461 Test Methods for Felt (Withdrawn 2003)
drawn 2018)
D519 Test Method for Length of Fiber in Wool Top
D2462 Test Method for Moisture in Wool by Distillation
D584 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool—
With Toluene
Laboratory Scale
D2475 Specification for Felt
D1060 PracticeforCoreSamplingofRawWoolinPackages
D2524 Test Method for Breaking Tenacity of Wool Fibers,
for Determination of Percentage of Clean Wool Fiber
Flat Bundle Method— ⁄8-in. (3.2-mm) Gage Length
Present
D2525 Practice for Sampling Wool for Moisture
D1113 Test Method for Vegetable Matter and Other Alkali-
D2720 Practice for Calculation of Commercial Weight and
Insoluble Impurities in Scoured Wool
Yield of Scoured Wool, Top, and Noil for Various Com-
D1234 Test Method of Sampling and Testing Staple Length
mercial Compositions
of Grease Wool
D2816 Test Method for Cashmere Coarse-Hair Content in
D1282 Test Method for Resistance to Airflow as an Indica-
Cashmere (Withdrawn 2018)
tion ofAverage Fiber Diameter of Wool Top, Card Silver,
D2817 Specification for Maximum Cashmere Coarse-Hair
and Scoured Wool (Withdrawn 2018)
Content in Cashmere (Withdrawn 2018)
D1283 Test Method for Alkali-Solubility of Wools
D2968 Test Method for Med and Kemp Fibers in Wool and
D1294 Test Method for Tensile Strength and Breaking Te-
Other Animal Fibers by Microprojection
nacity of Wool Fiber Bundles 1-in. (25.4-mm) Gage
D3991 Specifications for Fineness of Wool or Mohair and
Length
Assignment of Grade
D1334 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool—
D3992 Specifications for Fineness of Wool Top or Mohair
Commercial Scale (Withdrawn 2018)
Top and Assignment of Grade
D1574 Test Method for Extractable Matter in Wool and
D4510 Test Method for Counting Partial Cleavages in Wool
Other Animal Fibers
and Other Animal Fibers (Withdrawn 2018)
D1575 Test Method for Fiber Length of Wool in Scoured
D4845 Terminology Relating to Wool
Wool and in Card Sliver
D6466 Test Method for Diameter ofWool and OtherAnimal
D1576 Test Method for Moisture in Wool by Oven-Drying
Fibers By Sirolan-Laserscan Fiber Diameter Analyser
D1770 TestMethodforNeps,VegetableMatter,andColored
D6500 Test Method for Diameter ofWool and OtherAnimal
Fiber in Wool Top
Fibers Using an Optical Fiber Diameter Analyser
D2118 Practice forAssigning a Standard Commercial Mois-
tureContentforWoolanditsProducts(Withdrawn2018)
2. Terminology
D2130 Test Method for Diameter ofWool and OtherAnimal
acid content, n— of felt,thenumberofmilliequivalentsofacid
present per unit weight of felt, measured under prescribed
1 conditions. D461
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Felt.
alkali-solubility, n—in wool, the percent of clean wool that is
Current edition approved July 1, 2018. Published August 2018. Originally
ɛ2
approved in 1988. Last previous edition approved in 2010 as D4845 – 10 . DOI: soluble in a specified alkaline solution under controlled
10.1520/D4845-10R18.
conditions of temperature and time. D1283
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM
alpaca, n—the fleece and fiber produced by the alpaca, an
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
animal of the genus Llama (Lama glama pacus).The fiber is
the ASTM website.
obtained from several species, namely, Huacaya and Suri.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
www.astm.org. D2252
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D4845 − 10 (2018)
DISCUSSION—Alpaca is normally classified according to type, repre-
cashmere hair, n—the fibers produced by a form of goat
senting particular combinations of characteristics appropriate to a
(Capra hircus) indigenous to Asia and known as the cash-
specific use, or descriptive of geographic origin, breed or species of
mere goat. D2816, D2817
animal, or preparation for market.
DISCUSSION—Characteristically, cashmere hair consists of fine down
(undercoat) fibers and coarse (outercoat) fibers.
animal fiber, n—any natural protein-base fiber.
D1574, D4510
clean wool fiber present, n—in raw wool, the mass of wool
base present in the raw wool, adjusted to a moisture content
aqueous extract, n—in wool testing, the solution obtained by
of 12 %, an alcohol-extractable content of 1.5 %, and a
digesting a material with water or with a sodium chloride
mineral matter content of 0.5 %. D584, D1060, D1334
solution to dissolve soluble materials. D2165
colored fiber, n—in wool top, any fiber the color or shade of
average fiber diameter, n—in wool and other animal fibers,
which differs from the normal color or shade of the fiber
the average width of a group of fibers when measured on a
mass of the sample. D1770
projected image. D2130, D2252, D3991, D3992
combing wool, n—wool that is strong and strictly of combing
average fiber diameter, n—the arithmetic mean width of a
length, that is, 2 in. (50 mm) or more. D4845
group of fibers. D6500
commercial composition, n—in wool, the percentages by
DISCUSSION—In wool and other animal fibers, all animal fibers,
weight of wool base, moisture, and other nonwool-base
regardless of species, can be measured using the OFDA to determine
components in wool to which a specific commercial desig-
average fiber diameter. D6500
nation is applied. (Compare commercial weight.) D2720
black felt, n—those classifications of felt manufactured to
commercial designation, n—in wool,atermappliedtoalotof
various shades of the color black. D2475
wool in a stated form, and having a specified commercial
breaking tenacity, n—the tenacity corresponding to the break- composition. D2720
ing load. D1294, D2524
commercial moisture content, n—themoisturecalculatedasa
DISCUSSION—Breaking tenacity is commonly expressed as grams-
percentage of the weight of the wool, top, noils, yarn, fabric,
forcepertex(gf/tex),grams-forceperdenier(gf/den),millinewtons per
etc., in the “as-is” condition; that is, containing whatever
tex mN/tex), or millinewtons per denier (mN/den). Millinewtons are
moisture, oil, grease, or other extraneous matter that may be
numerically equal to grams-force times 9.81.
present. D2118
burr-wool waste, n—wasteremovedbytheburrguardofcards
DISCUSSION—The term “moisture regain” as defined in Terminology
D123, leads to certain difficulties in defining the clean wool basis for
or burr pickers having a very short fiber and full of burrs or
calculation, which do not occur when the term “moisture content” is
seeds. D4845
used.Moisturecontentcanbeapplieddirectlytotheproductintheas-is
DISCUSSION—The nature of the waste varies according to the wool
condition while moisture regain cannot.
from which the burrs are taken.
commercial weight, n—billed weight as determined by a
carbonized and neutralized wool, n—a term descriptive of
generally accepted method or as agreed to by the purchaser
scoured wool processed to destroy cellulosic impurities by
and the seller. D2720
treating with a mineral acid or an acid salt, drying and
DISCUSSION—For shipments of commercially designated scoured
baking, crushing, and dusting out the embrittled cellulosic
wool,wooltop,orwoolnoil,thegenerallyacceptedcommercialweight
matter followed by neutralization of the acidified wool.
is the weight of wool base contained in the shipment as determined by
definite prescribed methods, plus the weights of moisture and other
D2118
components corresponding to the commercial composition of the
carded wool, n—scoured wool which has been processed
commercially designated material. D2720
through a carding machine. D1575
constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) type tensile testing
cashmere, n—in roving, yarn, or fabrics, cashmere hair or machine, n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the
products made therewith having a cashmere coarse-hair pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate, and the force-
measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance with
content not exceeding a specified maximum percentage by
length. D2816, D2817 increasing force, less than 0.13 mm (0.005 in.).
D1294, D2524
cashmere coarse-hair, n—those coarse fibers in cashmere hair
constant-rate-of-loading (CRL) type tensile testing
having widths greater than 30 µm. D2816, D2817
machine, n—in tensile testing,anapparatusinwhichtherate
cashmere coarse-hair content, n—the total length of the
of increase of the force is uniform with time after the first 3
cashmere coarse-hair fibers that are present, expressed as a
s and the specimen is free to elongate, this elongation being
percentage of the total length of all the cashmere hair fibers;
dependentontheextensioncharacteristicsofthespecimenat
that is, the percentage by length of cashmere coarse-hair in
any applied force. D1294, D2524
cashmere hair. D2816, D2817
constant-rate-of-traverse (CRT) type tensile testing
cashmere down, n—those fibers in cashmere hair having machine, n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the
widths of 30 µm or less. D2816, D2817 pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate and the force is
D4845 − 10 (2018)
DISCUSSION—This specification expresses the variation in fiber diam-
applied through the other clamp, which moves appreciably
eter by means of the standard deviation of the fiber diameter
to actuate a force-measuring mechanism, producing a rate of
measurements. D3991, D3992
increaseofforceorextensionthatisusuallynotconstantand
is dependent on the extension characteristics of the
DISCUSSION—Theterm“grade”shouldnotbeconfusedwiththeterms
specimen. D1294, D2524 “quality”and“type.”“Quality”isatermthatincludesnotonlyfineness
but also characteristics such as length, crimp, strength, elasticity, luster,
core, n—in sampling fiber packages, the portion of wool or
tactile hand, and color, all of which affect the spinnability of the fiber
other fiber obtained by using a sampling tube. D1060
and the properties of the resulting yarn and fabric. The Bradford
designations,forwhichnostandardsexist,useascalesimilartothatfor
cortex, n—in mammalian hair fibers, the principal body of the
grade designations (for example: 64s, 56s, etc.) and refer to quality and
fiber made up of elongated cells. D4510
not solely to fineness. “Type” is a term designating a particular
combinationofcharacteristicsapplicabletoaspecificuseordescriptive
cuticle, n—in mammalian hair fibers, the layers of flattened
of geographical origin, breed of sheep, or preparation for market.
cells enclosing the cortex, which forms an envelope of
D3991, D3992
overlapping scales surrounding the fiber. D4510
grade, n—in wool and mohair, a numerical designation used in
diameter, average fiber—See average fiber diameter.
classification of fibers in their raw, semi-processed, and
dimensional change in boiling water (felt), n—the change in
processed forms based on average fiber diameter and varia-
length and width with any associated change in thickness
tion of fiber diameter. D6500
produced by immersion in boiling water under specified
gray felt, n—a blend of white fibers with naturally colored or
conditions. D461
dyed fibers or both and that has an overall gray appearance.
epidermis, n—in mammalian hair fibers,theoutsideorsurface
D2475
layer of the fiber consisting of flat, irregular, horny cells or
grease wool, n—wool taken from the living sheep and which
scales. D4845
has not been commercially scoured.
extractable matter, n—nonfibrous material in or on a textile,
D1234, D1574, D1576, D2462
not including water, which is removable by a specified
hair, n—natural animal fiber other than sheep’s wool or silk.
solvent or solvents as directed in a specified procedure.
D4845
D461, D1574
DISCUSSION—It is recognized that this definition implies a distinction
DISCUSSION—Extractable matter does not include moisture but (1)is
between sheep’s wool and the covering of other animals, notwithstand-
non-fibrousmaterial,(2)isusuallyoily,waxy,orresinousinnature,and
ing similarity in their fiber characteristics. Thus the crimped form and
(3) may include protein, particularly if the extracting solvent is ethyl
the scaly structure are not confined to sheep’s wool. It seems desirable
alcohol or contains ethyl alcohol.
in the textile trade, however, to avoid ambiguity by confining the term
wool to the covering of sheep and to have available a general term for
felt, n—a textile structure characterized by interlocking and
other fibers of animal origin. Normally the less widely used fibers are
consolidation of its constituent fibers achieved by the inter-
known by name, for example, alpaca, mohair, etc., but collectively they
action of a suitable combination of mechanical energy,
are classed as hairs.
chemical action, moisture, and heat but without the use of
kemp fiber, n—a medullated animal fiber in which the diam-
weaving, knitting, stitching, thermal bonding, or adhesives.
eter of the medulla is 60 %, or more, of the diameter of the
D2475
DISCUSSION—In practice, light needling may be used to supplement fiber. D2968
the ability of the fibers to interlock and consolidate.
laboratory sample, n—a portion of material taken to represent
fineness, n—of textile fibers, a relative measure of size, the lot sample, or the original material, and used in the
diameter, linear density or mass per unit length expressed in
laboratory as a source of test specimens. D1770, D2525
a variety of units. D2252, D3991, D3992
laboratory sample, n—in wool top, the portions drawn from
DISCUSSION—The fineness of alpaca, wool, and other animal fibers is
the lot in accordance with the described procedure. D1770
expressed as the average fiber width or average fiber diameter in
micrometers (µm).
lot, n—in acceptance sampling, that part of a consignment or
shipment consisting of a material from one production lot.
flame resistance, n—the property of a material whereby
D1770, D2525
flaming combustion is prevented, terminated, or inhibited
following application of a flaming or nonflaming source of
lot, n—in wool, top, the entire quantity, not exceeding 20 000
ignition, with or without subsequent removal of the ignition
lb(9100kg)ofasinglecombing,thatcomprisesasingleunit
source. D461
for which a test for neps, vegetable matter or colored fiber,
or all three combined is desired. D1770
gage length, n— in tensile testing, the length of a specimen
measured between the points of attachment to clamps while
med fiber, n—a medullated animal fiber in which the diameter
under uniform tension. D1294, D2524
of the medulla is less than 60 % of the diameter of the fiber.
D2968
grade, n—in wool and mohair,anumericaldesignationusedin
classifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-processed, medulla, n—in mammalian hair fibers, the more or less
and processed forms based on average fiber diameter and continuous cellular marrow inside the cortical layer in most
variation of fiber diameter. D2130, D3991, D3992 medium and coarse fibers. D2968
D4845 − 10 (2018)
medullated fiber, n—an animal fiber that in its original state orthopedic and surgical felt, n—a white, soft, low density,
includes a medulla. D2968 highly resilient felt. D2475
DISCUSSION—Suchfeltsarecommonlyusedinsplintpads,abdominal
merino, adj—from pure-bred merino sheep. D4845
supports, orthopedic devices, and fracture cast linings as well as other
DISCUSSION—Merino wool usually has a fiber diameter of 24 µm or
medical applications.
less.
oven-dried, adj—the condition of a material that has been
mohair, n—thehairoftheAngoragoat, Capraspecies. D3991,
heated under prescribed conditions of temperature and
D3992
humidity until there is no further significant change in its
ma
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