ASTM D3181-15(2019)
(Guide)Standard Guide for Conducting Wear Tests on Textiles
Standard Guide for Conducting Wear Tests on Textiles
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This guide may be used to evaluate textiles used in apparel.
5.2 This guide may be used for several purposes:
5.2.1 To determine the comparative performance of new or existing products,
5.2.2 To determine the suitability of current products in different end-uses, and
5.2.3 To evaluate and compare the effect of wear of construction details as well as specific fabrics, fibers, dyeings, finishing, fabrication techniques, etc.
5.3 This guide provides for flexibility in design and evaluation since the information sought from each wear test will vary (see Appendix X1).
5.4 This guide may be used to compare the wear performance of two or more textiles when these are included in the same test, or to compare a textile whose properties have not been evaluated with one having a known performance history.
5.5 The standard test methods and guides listed in 2.1 and 2.2 are not to be considered as limited to only those cited. It is recognized that textile innovations of chemistries on fibers and fabrics may require the use of other standards methods or modifications to existing standards. Further, product development efforts within companies may call for the use of internal procedures when investigation of worthiness of the innovation or prediction of consumer preference or satisfaction is questioned.
SCOPE
1.1 This guide is intended to provide guidance for the design of an experiment for the purpose of developing a prediction of expected wear performance of apparel and textile products when exposed to actual use conditions.
1.2 This guide recommends the use of a product for which a history of its performance is known from laboratory testing and consumer use as the basis for statistical significance of new product’s performance, however, other design or experimental approaches may be used.
1.3 The wide variety of textile products and the conditions under which consumers will use products prevents the inclusion of all types of wear trial experiments for research and development, product innovation studies, and special needs such as those for healthcare industry or military.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D3181 − 15 (Reapproved 2019)
Standard Guide for
Conducting Wear Tests on Textiles
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3181; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D2057 Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers to Laun-
dering
1.1 This guide is intended to provide guidance for the
D2058 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers to
design of an experiment for the purpose of developing a
Drycleaning
prediction of expected wear performance of apparel and textile
D3511 TestMethodforPillingResistanceandOtherRelated
products when exposed to actual use conditions.
Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Brush Pilling Tester
1.2 This guide recommends the use of a product for which
D3512 TestMethodforPillingResistanceandOtherRelated
a history of its performance is known from laboratory testing
Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble
andconsumeruseasthebasisforstatisticalsignificanceofnew
Pilling Tester
product’s performance, however, other design or experimental
D3514 TestMethodforPillingResistanceandOtherRelated
approaches may be used.
Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Elastomeric Pad
D3884 Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics
1.3 The wide variety of textile products and the conditions
under which consumers will use products prevents the inclu- (Rotary Platform, Double-Head Method)
D3885 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
sion of all types of wear trial experiments for research and
development, product innovation studies, and special needs Fabrics (Flexing and Abrasion Method)
D3886 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
such as those for healthcare industry or military.
Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Apparatus)
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
D3938 Guide for Determining or Confirming Care Instruc-
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
tions for Apparel and Other Textile Products
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
D4157 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
D4231 Practice for Evaluation of Launderable Woven Dress
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
Shirts and Sports Shirts
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
D4390 Practice for Evaluation of the Performance of Terry
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Bathroom Products for Household Use (Withdrawn
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
1994)
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
2.1.2 Other ASTM Standards:
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
2. Referenced Documents
D4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test
Methods
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel
2.1.1 Fabric and Apparel Tests:
2.2 AATCC Standards:
D2051 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers to
2.2.1 Colorfastness and Physical Properties:
Laundering
8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
D2052 Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers to Dry-
15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
cleaning
16 Colorfastness to Light
61 Colorfastness to Laundering: Accelerated
This guide is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.60 on Fabric Test Methods, 88B Smoothness of Seams in Fabrics After Repeated Home
Specific.
Laundering
Current edition approved July 1, 2019. Published July 2019. Originally approved
ɛ1
in 1973. Last previous edition approved in 2015 as D3181 – 15 . DOI: 10.1520/
D3181-15R19. The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or www.astm.org.
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Annual AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on TextileChemistsandColorists,P.O.Box12215,ResearchTrianglePark,NC 27709,
the ASTM website. www.aatcc.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D3181 − 15 (2019)
88C Appearance of Creases in Wash-and-Wear Items After 3. Terminology
Home Laundering
3.1 For all terms relating to D13.60 Fabric Test Methods,
96 Dimensional Changes in Commercial Laundering of
Specific, refer to Terminology D4850; for terms related to
Woven and Knitted Fabrics Except Wool)
D13.61 Apparel, refer to Terminology D7022.
116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:
Method
control textile, end-use, evaluation period, grade, participant,
117 Colorfastness to Heat: Dry (Excluding Pressing)
performance property, rating, wear level, wear-refurbishing
124 Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home Launder-
cycle, wear-service condition, wear test.
ing
3.2 For all other terminology related to textiles, see Termi-
125 Colorfastness to Perspiration and Light
nology D123.
128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method
130 Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method
4. Summary of Guide
135 Dimensional Changes of Fabric after Home Laundering
4.1 Textiles are subjected to actual wear under service
143 Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Products
conditions. This practice recommends a control textile having
after Repeated Home Laundering
a known wear performance history to be included with other
150 Dimensional Changes of Garments after Home Laun-
items being tested. Statistical methods for design of test and
dering
analysis of data are included that are applicable to all wear
179 Skewness Change in Fabric Resulting from Home
tests. Standard procedures for evaluation of textiles are pro-
Laundering
vided.
183 Transmittance or Blocking of Erythemally Weighted
Ultraviolet Radiation through Fabrics
5. Significance and Use
186 Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture Exposure
5.1 This guide may be used to evaluate textiles used in
192 Weather Resistance of Textiles: Sunshine-Arc Lamp
apparel.
Exposure With and Without Wetting
5.2 This guide may be used for several purposes:
202 Relative Hand Value of Textiles: Instrumental Method
5.2.1 To determine the comparative performance of new or
2.2.2 Vapor, Water and Moisture Management Tests:
existing products,
22 Water Repellency: Spray Test
5.2.2 To determine the suitability of current products in
35 Water Resistance: Rain Test
different end-uses, and
42 Water Resistance: Impact Penetration
5.2.3 To evaluate and compare the effect of wear of con-
70 Water Repellency: Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption Test
struction details as well as specific fabrics, fibers, dyeings,
79 Absorbency of Textiles
finishing, fabrication techniques, etc.
127 Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure Test
5.3 This guide provides for flexibility in design and evalu-
193 Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol Solution
ation since the information sought from each wear test will
Resistance Test
vary (see Appendix X1).
195 Liquid Moisture Management Properties of Textiles
5.4 This guide may be used to compare the wear perfor-
Fabrics
mance of two or more textiles when these are included in the
197 Vertical Wicking of Textiles
same test, or to compare a textile whose properties have not
198 Horizontal Wicking Textiles
been evaluated with one having a known performance history.
199 Drying Time of Textiles: Moisture Analyzer Method
5.5 The standard test methods and guides listed in 2.1 and
200 Drying Rate of Textiles at theirAbsorbant Capacity:Air
2.2 are not to be considered as limited to only those cited. It is
Flow Method
recognized that textile innovations of chemistries on fibers and
201 Drying Rate of Fabrics: Heated Hot Plate Method
fabrics may require the use of other standards methods or
2.2.3 Evaluation Procedures:
modifications to existing standards. Further, product develop-
EP1 Gray Scale for Color Change
ment efforts within companies may call for the use of internal
EP2 Gray Scale for Staining
procedures when investigation of worthiness of the innovation
EP5 Fabric Hand: Guidelines for Subjective Evaluation
or prediction of consumer preference or satisfaction is ques-
EP6 Instrumental Color Measurement
tioned.
EP7 Instrumental Assessment of the Change in Color of a
Test Specimen
6. Apparatus and Facilities
EP8 AATCC 9–Step Chromatic Transference Scale
6.1 Laboratory Equipment, to perform designed tests.
EP9 Visual Assessment of Color Difference of Textiles
6.2 Facilities for Conditioning Textiles.
EP12 Instrumental Assessment of Degree of Staining
6.2.1 Environmental Chambers, if required.
2.2.4 AATCC Monographs:
6.2.2 Facilities, for participants to be interviewed, fill out
M5 Standardization of Hand Laundering for Fabrics and
worksheets, change clothes, etc.
Textiles
M6 Standardization of Home Laundering Test Conditions 6.3 Work Sheets, to record data (see Fig. 1).
D3181 − 15 (2019)
Wear Test Identification Number ____________
Wear Level _____________________________
Fabric Identification ______________________
PARTICIPANTS
12 34 56 78 9 10 etc.
Evaluation Date
Times Worn
Hours Worn
Times Refurbished
Abrasion
Bagging
Color Change
Crease Retention
Dimensional Stability
Fabric Smoothness
Holes
% Length Change
% Width Change
Pilling
Seam Puckering
Snagging
Washdown (Hand)
Wear Wrinkling
Etc.
FIG. 1 Example of a Wear Test Work Sheet
7. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens 8. Procedure
7.1 Division into Lots—For acceptance testing, divide the 8.1 Define the objectives of the test.
product into lots as agreed upon between the purchaser and the
8.2 List the information to be obtained from the test.
supplier.
8.3 Determine the type and design of the textile product(s)
7.2 LotSample—Asalotsampleforacceptancetesting,take
to be tested.
at random the number of shipping cartons directed in an
8.4 Select the performance properties to be evaluated to
applicable material specification or other agreement between
obtain the necessary information. See Table 1.
the purchaser and the supplier.
8.4.1 The physical properties listed in Table 1 are not to be
NOTE 1—A realistic specification or other agreement between the
considered exhaustive but rather as illustrative. Standard test
purchaser and the supplier requires taking into account the variability
between shipping cartons, between items within a carton, and between
specimens within an item so as to provide a sampling plan which has a
TABLE 1 Properties That May Be Examined After Each Wear-
meaningful producer’s risk, meaningful consumer’s risk, acceptable
Refurbishing Cycle or Evaluation Period
quality level, and limiting quality level.
Existing Test Methods or
Property
7.3 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for accep- Other Standards
tance testing, take at least two items from each shipping carton
Possibilities for Apparel Evaluation
Abrasion Resistance D3884, D3885, D3886,
in the lot sample.
D4157
Appearance of collar D4231
7.4 Test Specimens—Take test specimens from each item in
Appearance of creases AATCC 88C
the laboratory sample as directed in the individual test methods
Appearance of pocket D4231
or as agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.
Appearance of placket D4231
Appearance of seams AATCC 88B,
Perform each test on the product as it will reach the consumer.
Appearance of zippers D2051, D2052, D2057,
7.5 For some wear trials where two elements of a textile are
D2058
Color change, crocking AATCC 8,116
being evaluated for specific benefits, a laboratory specimen
Dimensional changes, fabric, garments & textile AATCC 135 & 150
might require a test garment to be made with one full side from
products
fabric with one application (fiber content, or other element Smoothness appearance, fabric, garments & textile AATCC 124 & 143
products
under consideration) and the other full side having the un-
Fabric hand AATCC Eval. 5
treated (fiber content or other element) to be compared by a
Pilling resistance D3511, D3512, D3514
study participant.
D3181 − 15 (2019)
methods are sometimes modified to address new textile inno- 8.11 Establish the number of wear-refurbishing cycles that
vations. Also, research and product development activities will constitute overall satisfactory performance. The wear test
within companies necessitate the creation of new evaluations may be terminated at this point even though no specimen may
orprocedures,andwhilenotapprovedbystandardsdeveloping have failed.
organizations,areusefulinselectcircumstancesforweartrials.
8.12 Define the use-refurbishing cycle by establishing the
number of hours (days) worn or used, and the number of uses
8.5 Select the specific areas of the textile that will be
the textile will receive before refurbishing, or both, and the
evaluated for each property. See Table 2.
method by which the item will be refurbished.
8.5.1 Some wear trials may be designed to evaluate gar-
ments in the environment in which the items will be used or
8.13 Select a suitable control textile to include in the test as
worn to determine consumer perceptions of acceptance or
a standard of comparison.
relative approval. In such cases, areas of evaluation may be
8.14 Based on the number of conditions being tested, as
general areas on contact with skin, as in wear trials intended to
well as the time and cost involved, develop a suitable design
evaluate perceptions of comfort during use.
for the wear test. See Appendix X1 for examples of some
statistical experimental designs, however other designs and
8.6 Establish how each performance property will be evalu-
data analysis may be used (see 9.1.7).
ated and what rating scale will be used.
8.15 Decide on, and arrange for, the number of participants
8.7 For each performance property, decide what test value
needed to conduct the test according to the selected plan.
or grade will constitute a satisfactory or unsatisfactory perfor-
mance to meet the objectives of the test.
8.16 Determine the exact sizes of the garments or other
textiles required for each participant.
8.8 Identify which evaluation
...
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