Standard Terminology Relating to Climbing, Mountaineering, Search and Rescue Equipment and Practices

SCOPE
1.1 This terminology document is a compilation of definitions of terms, abbreviations, and acronyms that are unique to climbing, mountaineering, search and rescue collected in order to provide consistency in communication when used in actual operations, training, literature, and the statistical basis for rating a product's performance dealing with this field.

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30-Sep-2009
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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: F1773 − 09
StandardTerminology Relating to
Climbing, Mountaineering, Search and Rescue Equipment
1
and Practices
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1773; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope* 3.1.7 brake bar rack, n—a variable friction device consist-
ing of a u-shaped metal bar to which are attached several metal
1.1 This terminology document is a compilation of defini-
bars that create friction on the rope. Also known as a rappel
tions of terms, abbreviations, and acronyms that are unique to
rack.
climbing, mountaineering, search and rescue collected in order
3.1.8 chest harness, n—a type of harness worn around the
to provide consistency in communication when used in actual
chest for upper body support.
operations, training, literature, and the statistical basis for
3.1.9 climber, n—a person engaging in the sport of climb-
rating a product’s performance dealing with this field.
ing and mountaineering.
2. Referenced Documents 3.1.10 climbing and mountaineering, n—the sport of
2
ascending, descending, and traversing on mountainous terrain,
2.1 ASTM Standards:
snow and ice, and natural and simulated rock surfaces.
E456 Terminology Relating to Quality and Statistics
3.1.11 climbing and mountaineering equipment, n—the
E1150 Definitions of Terms Relating to Fatigue (Withdrawn
3
equipment exclusively designed for use in climbing and
1996)
mountaineering.
3. Terminology
3.1.12 dynamic rope (rope systems), n—a class of ropes
thatisusedforrescueworkandrappellingwhengreaterenergy
3.1 Definitions of General Climbing and Mountaineering
absorption qualities are required, such as in lead climbing or
Terms:
whenever a high fall potential exists. Such ropes are typically
3.1.1 access, n—the process of reaching the patients or
certified to UIAA or CE climbing rope standards.
subjects and establishing physical contact with them.
3.1.13 evacuation, n—theprocessusedtomovethepatient/
3.1.2 aid climbing, n—a technique of climbing that utilizes
subjectbetweenthecompletionofextractionandthebeginning
auxiliary devices as a means of ascent to supplement the
of transportation.
natural features of the surface being climbed.
3.1.14 extraction, n—the process of removing the patient/
3.1.3 belay, n—a technique where a stationary person
subject from an immediately hazardous environment along
controls a rope connected to a moving climber in order to
with assessment, treatment, stabilization, and packaging.
provide protection against a fall, or in the event of a fall, to
3.1.15 free climbing, n—a technique of climbing that uses
catch the climber.
only the natural features of the surface being climbed. In free
3.1.4 belay, v—to protect a climber with a belay.
climbing, equipment may be utilized to provide protection in
3.1.5 belayer, n—a person who is belaying.
the event of a fall, but is not used to assist progress.
3.1.6 bouldering, n—a technique of climbing where climb-
ers remain close to the ground and do not use a rope to 3.1.16 john boat (maritime), n—a skiff with a flat bottom.
safeguard their progress. 3.1.17 lead climbing, n—the skill of climbing first up a
pitch, utilizing a belayer, climbing rope, and intermediate
protection anchors.
1
This terminology is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee F32 on Search
3.1.18 low stretch rope (rope systems), n— a class of
and Rescue and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee F32.01 on Equipment,
ropes that is used for rescue work and rappelling with an
Testing, and Maintenance.
Current edition approved Oct. 1, 2009. Published November 2009. Originally
elongation greater than 6 % and less than 10 % at 10 % of its
approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 2004 as F1773 – 97(2004).
minimum breaking strength.
DOI: 10.1520/F1773-09.
2 3.1.19 pike pole (maritime), n—a long, slender, hooked
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
pole used by boaters to retrieve line, objects, and so forth from
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
water. Also known as a boat hook.
the ASTM website.
3
3.1.20 rappel, n—the set up of anchors and equipment used
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
www.astm.org. to rappel.
*A Summary of Changes section appears at the end of this standard
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1

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F1773 − 09
...

This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation:F1773–97(Reapproved 2004) Designation:F1773–09
Standard Terminology Relating to
Climbing and Mountaineering Equipment and
PracticesClimbing, Mountaineering, Search and Rescue
1
Equipment and Practices
This standard is issued under the fixed designation F1773; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1This terminology defines the terms that are unique to climbing and mountaineering and the statistical basis for rating a
product’s performance. *
1.1 This terminology document is a compilation of definitions of terms, abbreviations, and acronyms that are unique to
climbing, mountaineering, search and rescue collected in order to provide consistency in communication when used in actual
operations, training, literature, and the statistical basis for rating a product’s performance dealing with this field.
2. Referenced Documents
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
E456 Terminology Relating to Quality and Statistics
E1150 Definitions of Terms Relating to Fatigue
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions of General Climbing and Mountaineering Terms:
3.1.1 access, n—the process of reaching the patients or subjects and establishing physical contact with them.
3.1.2 aid climbing, n—a technique of climbing that utilizes auxiliary devices as a means of ascent to supplement the natural
features of the surface being climbed.
3.1.2
3.1.3 belay, n—a technique where a stationary person controls a rope connected to a moving climber in order to provide
protection against a fall, or in the event of a fall, to catch the climber.
3.1.3
3.1.4 belay, v—to protect a climber with a belay.
3.1.4
3.1.5 belayer, n—a person who is belaying.
3.1.5
3.1.6 bouldering, n—a technique of climbing where climbers remain close to the ground and do not use a rope to safeguard
their progress.
3.1.6
3.1.7 brake bar rack, n—a variable friction device consisting of a u-shaped metal bar to which are attached several metal bars
that create friction on the rope. Also known as a rappel rack.
3.1.8 chest harness, n—a type of harness worn around the chest for upper body support.
3.1.9 climber, n—a person engaging in the sport of climbing and mountaineering.
3.1.7
3.1.10 climbingandmountaineering, n—the sport of ascending, descending, and traversing on mountainous terrain, snow and
ice, and natural and simulated rock surfaces.
3.1.8
1
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeF32onSearchandRescueandisthedirectresponsibilityofSubcommitteeF32.01onEquipment,Testing,
and Maintenance.
Current edition approved MayOct. 1, 2004.2009. Published May 2004.October 2009. Originally approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 19972004 as
F1773 – 97(2004). DOI: 10.1520/F1773-97R04.10.1520/F1773-09.
2
For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
*A Summary of Changes section appears at the end of this standard.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
1

---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
F1773–09
3.1.11 climbing and mountaineering equipment, n—the equipment exclusively designed for use in climbing and mountain-
eering.
3.1.9
3.1.12 dynamic rope (rope systems), n—a class of ropes that is used for rescue work and rappelling when greater energy
absorptionqualitiesarerequired,suchasinleadclimbingorwheneverahighfallpotentialexists.Suchropesaretypicallycertified
to UIAA or CE climbing rope standards.
3.1.13 evacuation, n—the process used to move the patient/subject between the completion of extraction and the beginning of
transportation.
3.1.14 extraction, n—the process of removing the patient/subject from an immediately hazardous environment along with
assessment, treatment, stabilization, and packaging.
3.1.15 free climbing, n—a technique of climbing that uses only the natural features of the surface being climbed. In free
climbing, equipment may be utilized to provide protection in the event of a fall, but is not used to assist progress.
3.1.10
3.1.16 john boat (maritime), n—a skiff with a flat bottom.
3.1.17 lead climbing, n—the skill of climbing first up a pitch, utilizing a belayer, climbi
...

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