Standard Terminology Relating to Yarns and Fibers

SCOPE
1.1 This standard is a compilation of terminology developed by Committee D-13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
1.1.1 This terminology, mostly definitions, is unique to fibers and yarns used in the textile industry. Terms that are generally understood or adequately defined in other readily available sources are not included.
1.1.2 Subcommittee D13.58 has jurisdictional responsibility for every item in this standard. The standards in which the terms and definitions are used are listed by number after the definition. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without the approval of 13.58 subcommittee. Any changes approved by the subcommittee and main committee are then directed to subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology for subsequent changes or additions to Terminology D123.
1.1.3 This terminology standard is not all inclusive of the terms under the jurisdiction of subcommittee D13.58. Other terminology standards under the jurisdiction of subcommittee D13.58 are D 3888, D 4466, and D 4848.

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Historical
Publication Date
09-Apr-2002
Technical Committee
Drafting Committee
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Ref Project

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NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
Designation: D 4849 – 02a
Standard Terminology Relating to
Yarns and Fibers
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4849; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope beam set, n—in textiles, one or more beams of yarn in a single
shipment to be further processed together for a specific end
1.1 This standard is a compilation of terminology developed
use. D 2258
by Committee D-13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
bench marks, n—marks placed on a specimen to define gage
1.1.1 This terminology, mostly definitions, is unique to
length, that is, the portion of the specimen that will be
fibers and yarns used in the textile industry. Terms that are
evaluated in a specific test. D76
generally understood or adequately defined in other readily
boundary friction, n—friction at low sliding speeds (0.02
available sources are not included.
m/min or less) where lubrication occurs under thin-film
1.1.2 Subcommittee D13.58 has jurisdictional responsibility
lubricant conditions. D 3412
for every item in this standard. The standards in which the
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
terms and definitions are used are listed by number after the
more filaments., D 3990
definition. The wording of an entry cannot be changed without
bulk shrinkage, n—a measure of potential stretch and power
the approval of 13.58 subcommittee. Any changes approved by
of stretch yarns or a measure of bulk of textured-set yarns.
the subcommittee and main committee are then directed to
D 4031
subcommittee D13.92 on Terminology for subsequent changes
bunch, n—a defect in a yarn characterized by a segment not
or additions to Terminology D123.
over6mm( ⁄4in.) in length that shows an abrupt increase in
1.1.3 This terminology standard is not all inclusive of the
diameter caused by more fibers matted in this particular
terms under the jurisdiction of subcommittee D13.58. Other
place. (See slug, slub.) D 2255
terminology standards under the jurisdiction of subcommittee
cable twist, n—the construction of cabled yarn, cord, or rope
D13.58 are D 3888, D 4466, and D 4848.
in which each successive twist is in the opposite direction to
2. Referenced Documents the preceding twist; an S/Z/S or Z/S/Z construction.
D 1423
2.1 ASTM Standards:
calibrate, v—to determine and record the relationship between
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
a set of standard units of measure and the output of an
D 3888 Terminology Relating to Open-End Spinning
instrument or test procedure.
D 4466 Terminology for Multicomponent Textile Fibers
D 4848 Force, Deformation and Related Properties of Tex-
DISCUSSION—This term is also commonly used to describe the
tiles
checking of previously marked instruments, an operation more properly
described as a description of verification. D76
3. Terminology
capacity, n—for tensile testing machines, the maximum force
3.1 Alphabetical listings of terms with subcommittee 13.58
for which the machine is designed.
jurisdiction and attribution for each term.
DISCUSSION—Capacity is the maximum force the tester-frame and the
American grain count, n—a direct yarn numbering system for
drive system can exercise on the specimen without inadmissible
expressing linear density, equal to the mass in grains per 120
deformations of the tester-frame, etc. Within its capacity, there are
yards of sliver or roving. D 2260
available load-cells with different full-scale ranges which may be
beam, n—in textiles, a large spool containing many ends of chosen to select an appropriate full-scale range for a special test.
yarn wound parallel, and used for such purposes as weaving D76
or warp knitting. D 2258
case, n—in textiles, a shipping unit, usually a carton, box, bale,
or other container holding a number of yarn packages.
1 D 2258
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers. clamp, n—that part of a testing machine used to grip the
Current edition approved April 10, 2002. Published August 2002. Originally
specimen by means of suitable jaws. D76
published as D 4849–88. Discontinued June 1992 and reinstated as D 4849–02.
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular, thick, uneven lumps. D 2255
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01
coefficient of friction, n—the ratio of the tangential force that
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
D 4849 – 02a
is needed to maintain uniform relative motion between two specimen is free to elongate, this elongation dependent on
contacting surfaces to the perpendicular force holding them the extension characteristics of the specimen at any applied
in contact. D 3108, D 3412 force. D76
coefficient of variation unevenness, n—in textiles, the stan- constant-rate-of-traverse tensile testing machine (CR), n—a
dard deviation of the linear densities over which unevenness testing machine in which the pulling clamp moves at a
is measured expressed as a percentage of the average linear uniform rate and the force is applied through the other clamp
density for the total length within which unevenness is which moves appreciably to actuate a force-measuring
measured. (See also unevenness and mean deviation un- mechanism, producing a rate of increase of force or exten-
evenness.) D 1425 sion that is usually not constant and is dependent upon the
cohesive force, n—in a textile strand, the force required to extension characteristics of the specimen. D76
overcome fiber cohesion as the strand is being reduced in container, n—a receptacle designed to hold a material, or to
linear density. give integrity to the material.
DISCUSSION—In dynamic tests, cohesive force is the force required to DISCUSSION—The term container in textiles may include bales,
maintain drafting in a roving, silver, or top. In static tests, cohesive
cartons and other shipping containers. D 3333
force is measured while a test specimen is held in a fixed position
core-spun yarn, n—a compound structure in which a filament
between two slowly separating clamps. D 2612, D 4120
or strand serves as an axis around which a cover of either
colorfastness, n—the resistance of a material to change in any
loose fiber or a yarn is wound.
of its color characteristics, to transfer its colorant(s) to
DISCUSSION—(1) General—in yarn testing, when the core and cover
adjacent materials, or both, as the result of exposure of the
in this type of compound structure need to be separated, for testing of
material to any real or simulated environment that might be
either component, the methods used should not compromise the
encountered during processing, storage, use or testing of the
physical properties of the component to be evaluated: and (2)
material. D 204
Specific—as a sewing thread, the means by which this compound
commercial allowance, n—an arbitrary value equal to the structure is made will not allow the core and cover to be readily
separated without compromising the physical attributes of each com-
commercial moisture regain plus a specified allowance for
ponent. Hence, the sewing thread should be evaluated as a compound
finish, used with the mass of scoured, oven-dried yarn, to
structure. D 204
compute (1) yarn linear density, (2) the commercial or legal
mass of a shipment or delivery of any specific textile
cotton count, n—an indirect yarn numbering system generally
material (see also commercial moisture regain) or (3) the
used in the cotton system equal to the number of 840-yd
mass of a specific component in the analysis of fiber blends
lengths of yarn per pound. D 1059, D 2260
D 1907, D 2494
cotton system, n—a spinning system adapted to fibers less
commercial mass, n—billed mass as determined by a gener-
than 65 mm (2.5 in.) in length.
ally accepted method or as agreed upon between the pur-
DISCUSSION—This system usually employs flat-top cards and may use
chaser and supplier.
roll and other drafting assemblies on intermediate processes and
DISCUSSION—The basis for determining the commercial mass of a
spinning machines. D 2645
shipment of yarn or manufactured fibers is generally one of the
cover, n—in yarns, the outside layer of fibers that form the
following: (1) CAS Basis (commercial allowance with scoured
material)—the mass of oven-dry fiber or yarn after scouring by definite surface of a yarn. D 2255
prescribed methods plus the mass corresponding to its commercial
covered yarn, n—a compound structure which contains dis-
allowance, (2) CMRS Basis (commercial moisture regain with scoured
tinguishable inner and outer fibrous elements which can be
material)—the mass of oven-dry fiber or yarn after scouring by definite
different. D 204
prescribed methods plus the mass corresponding to its commercial
CRE—abbreviation for constant-rate-of-extension. D76
moisture regain. (3) CMRU Basis (commercial regain with unscoured
crimp, n—in a textile strand, the undulations, waviness, or
material)—the mass of unscoured oven-dry fiber or yarn plus the mass
succession of bend, curls, or waves in the strand induced
corresponding to its commercial regain. (4) UN Basis ((unadjusted
net)—the mass of the unscoured fiber or yarn with no adjustment for either naturally, mechanically, or chemically.
the amount of moisture or finish, or both. D 2494
DISCUSSION—Crimp has many characteristics, among which are its
amplitude, frequency, index, and type. In test method D 3937, crimp is
cone, n—in textiles, (1) a yarn holder or bobbin of conical
characterized by a change in the directional rotation of a line tangent to
shape used as a core for a yarn package of conical form, also
the fiber as the point of tangent progresses along the fiber. Two changes
called a cone core. (2) the yarn package obtained when yarn
in rotation constitutes one unit of crimp. D 3937
is wound upon a cone core. D 2258
constant-rate-of-extension type tensile testing machine
crimp, n—in a yarn, the undulations, waviness, or succession
(CRE), n—in tensile testing, an apparatus in which the
of bends, curls, or waves in the yarn induced either naturally,
pulling clamp moves at a uniform rate, and the force-
mechanically, thermall, or chemically. D 6774
measuring mechanism moves a negligible distance with
crimp contraction, n—an indicator of crimp capacity or a
increasing force, less than 0.13 mm (0.005 in.) D76
characterization of a yarn’s ability to contract under tension.
constant-rate-of-load tensile testing machine (CRL), n—in
D 4031, D 6774
tensile testing, an apparatus in which the rate of increase of
crimp development medium, n—for testing of textured yarn,
the force is uniform with time after the first 3 s and the
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
D 4849 – 02a
DISCUSSION—The drawing and texturing stages may occur in sepa-
an environment that allows the temporary set of fiber crimp
rate, usually consecutive, zones of a machine (sequential draw textur-
to be overcome and that allows the filaments to assume their
ing) or together in the same zone (simultaneous draw texturing).
permanently set configuration. D 4031
D 5344
crimp frequency, n—in manufactured staple fibers, the num-
ber of crimps or waves per unit length of extended or
drawing, n—in textile processing, the process of stretching or
straightened fiber. D 3937
attenuating a material to increase the length per unit mass.
crimp index, n—an indirect measure of the amplitude of the
DISCUSSION—This process orients the molecular chains in the length
crimp.
direction of a monofilament or partially oriented yarn. D 3218,
DISCUSSION—Crimp index is calculated as the difference in distance
D 5344
between two points on the fiber as it lies in an unstretched condition in
effective carriage mass, n—in CRL-type tensile testing ma-
one plane and the distance between the same two points when the fiber
is straightened under a specified tension expressed as a percentage of chine, the force actually applied to a specimen by the mass
the unstretched distance. To improve reproducibility, the unstretched
of the carriage, plus any added masses. D76
distance may be measured under a specified, very low tension to align
effective fiber length, n—in vibroscope test for linear density,
the fiber in one plane. D 3937
that portion of the fiber free to vibrate between fixed
supports or holders. D 1577
crimp recovery, n—a measure of the ability of a yarn to return
effective gage length, n—in tensile testing, the estimated
to its original crimped state after being subjected to tension.
length of the specimen subjected to a strain equal to that
D 4031
observed for the true gage length.
CRL—abbreviation for constant-rate-of-loading. D76
CRT—abbreviation for constant-rate-of-traverse. D76
DISCUSSION—The effective gage length can be calculated using the
cut, n—in asbestos and glass yarns, the number of 100-yd
following equation:
lengths of yarn per pound; an indirect yarn numbering
G 5 G 3 E /E (1)
E N N T
system. D 1059, D 2260
where:
cut, n—in wool yarns, the number of 300-yd lengths of yarn
G = effective gage length
per pound; an indirect yarn numbering system. D 1059,
E
G = nominal gage length
D 2260 N
E = percent elongation based on the nominal gage length,
denier, n—the unit of linear density, equal to the mass in grams N
and
of 9000 m of fiber, yarn, or other textile strand that is used
E = percent elongation based on the true gage length.
T
in a direct yarn numbering system. (See also linear density)
D76
D 1059, D 2260
direct yarn numbering system, n—a system that expresses
elastomeric yarn, n—a nontextured yarn which can be
the linear density of yarn in mass per unit length.
stretched repeatedly at room temperature to at least twice its
original length and which after removal of the tensile force
DISCUSSION—The preferred units of measurements for the direct yarn
will immediately and forcibly return to approximately its
measuring system are grams and meters. Tex (weight in grams for 1000
metres) and Denier (weight in grams for 9000 metres) are recom-
original length.
mended to show linear density in the direct numbering system. These
DISCUSSION—The elastic properties of yarn are produced by the use
can be
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