ASTM D3882-08(2016)e1
(Test Method)Standard Test Method for Bow and Skew in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
Standard Test Method for Bow and Skew in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments.
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative tests should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, the test samples to be used are as homogeneous as possible, are drawn from the material from which the disparate test results were obtained, and are randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. Other fabrics with established test values may be used for this purpose. The test results from the two laboratories should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, at a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
5.2 Individual rolls are normally accepted or rejected on the basis of the maximum amount of bow or skew in a specific roll of fabric. The average bow or skew in a roll or lot or the range of bow or skew in a roll may be determined but are not normally used in the trade for acceptance or rejection.
5.3 Bow or skew can be induced during fabric manufacturing, dyeing, tentering, finishing, or other operations where a potential exists for uneven distribution of tensions across the fabric width. Bow and skew are more visually displeasing in colored, patterned fabrics such as plaids and horizontal stripes rather than in solid colors because the contrast makes the distortion more prominent. These defects may cause sewing problems in such fabrics and draping problems in finished products. In some cases, a specified amount of skew is needed, for example, to prevent twisting of pant legs made of twill fabric. Matching plaids from distorted patterns may create serious problems for the garment manufacturer or home sewer. Wavy ...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of bow and skew of filling yarns in woven fabrics and the courses in knitted fabrics.
1.2 This test method can also be used to measure the bow and skew of printed geometric designs.
1.3 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the two systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
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´1
Designation: D3882 − 08 (Reapproved 2016)
Standard Test Method for
Bow and Skew in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3882; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
ε NOTE—The tolerances in 10.1 and 10.2 were corrected editorially in May 2017.
1. Scope Method that Produces Normally Distributed Data (With-
drawn 2008)
1.1 This test method covers the determination of bow and
D2906 Practice for Statements on Precision and Bias for
skew of filling yarns in woven fabrics and the courses in
Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
knitted fabrics.
D3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
1.2 This test method can also be used to measure the bow
and skew of printed geometric designs. 3. Terminology
1.3 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units 3.1 For all terminology related to Fabric Defects see Termi-
are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in nology D3990.
each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each
3.2 The following terms are relevant to this standard: bow,
system shall be used independently of the other. Combining
double bow, double hooked bow, double reverse bow, hooked
values from the two systems may result in non-conformance
bow, knitted fabric, skew, standard atmosphere for testing
with the standard.
textiles.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
3.3 For definitions of all other textile terms seeTerminology
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
D123.
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
4. Summary of Test Method
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
4.1 Bow—Astraightedgeisplacedacrossthefabricbetween
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
two points at which a marked filling yarn, knitting course,
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
designated printed line, or designated design meets the two
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
selvages or edges. The greatest distance between the straight-
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
edge and the marked filling line, knitting course, designated
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
printed line, or designated design is measured parallel to the
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
selvage.
2. Referenced Documents 4.2 Skew—The straight-line distortion of a marked filling
2 yarn, knitting course, designated printed line, or designated
2.1 ASTM Standards:
design is measured from its normal perpendicular to the
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
selvage or edge.
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
D2904 Practice for Interlaboratory Testing of a Textile Test
5. Significance and Use
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for accep-
tance testing of commercial shipments.
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.60 on Fabric Test Methods,
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance be-
Specific.
tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more),
Current edition approved July 1, 2016. Published July 2016. Originally approved
ε1
comparative tests should be performed to determine if there is
in 1980. Last previous edition approved in 2012 as D3882 – 08(2012) . DOI:
10.1520/D3882-08R16E01. a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
the ASTM website. www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
´1
D3882 − 08 (2016)
assistance. As a minimum, the test samples to be used are as 7.2 Laboratory Sampling Unit—As a laboratory sampling
homogeneous as possible, are drawn from the material from unit take the entire roll or bolt after removing a first 1-mm
(1-yd)length.Forfabriccomponentsoffabricatedsystems,use
which the disparate test results were obtained, and are ran-
the entire system.
domlyassignedinequalnumberstoeachlaboratoryfortesting.
Other fabrics with established test values may be used for this
7.3 Test Specimens—As test specimens, select 3 test areas
purpose. The test results from the two laboratories should be
from each laboratory sampling unit. Exclude the first and last
compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, at a
fifth of the roll or bolt or piece length. Select test areas at
probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is
random but no closer to one another than one fifth of the roll
found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future
or bolt or piece length.
test results must be adjusted in consideration of the known
7.3.1 Optical test specimens—Select 3 test areas from each
bias.
sampling unit. Exclude the first and last 10 m (11 yd) of a roll
and test random areas within the roll.
5.2 Individual rolls are normally accepted or rejected on the
7.3.1.1 Cut pieces that are at least 400 mm (16 in.) in width
basis of the maximum amount of bow or skew in a specific roll
can be measured for bow and skew.
of fabric. The average bow or skew in a roll or lot or the range
of bow or skew in a roll may be determined but are not
8. Conditioning
normally used in the trade for acceptance or rejection.
8.1 Conditionthetestspecimenstomoistureequilibriumfor
5.3 Bow or skew can be induced during fabric
testing in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles in
manufacturing, dyeing, tentering, finishing, or other operations
accordance with Practice D1776 or, if applicable, in the
where a potential exists for uneven distribution of tensions
specified atmosphere in which the testing is to be performed.
across the fabric width. Bow and skew are more visually
8.1.1 When full rolls or bolts of fabric cannot be properly
displeasing in colored, patterned fabrics such as plaids and
conditioned in a reasonable time with available facilities,
horizontal stripes rather than in solid colors because the
perform the test without conditioning and report the actual
contrast makes the distortion more prominent. These defects
condition prevailing at the time of the test. Such results may
may cause sewing problems in such fabrics and draping
not correspond with the results obtained when testing condi-
problems in finished products. In some cases, a specified
tioned specimens at the standard atmosphere for testing tex-
amount of skew is needed, for example, to prevent twisting of
tiles.
pant legs made of twill fabric. Matching plaids from distorted
patterns may create serious problems for the garment manu-
9. Procedure
facturer or home sewer. Wavy or sharp breaks in the bow line
9.1 Test the test specimens in the standard atmosphere for
are more detrimental to the appearance of small parts of a
testing textiles in accordance with Section 8.
garment (such as collars, pockets, and so forth) than a gradual
slope from a straight line.
9.2 Handle the test specimens carefully to avoid altering the
natural state of the material.
5.3.1 Automotive interior textiles used for seat bolsters,
cushions, headrests and door panels may be susceptible to bow
9.3 Lay the fabric on a smooth, horizontal surface without
and skew, especially when visually patterned fabrics are joined
tension in any direction or use the optional fabric inspection
or mated to a straight edge surface.
table.
9.4 Bow:
6. Apparatus
9.4.1 Measure the bow in three places spaced as widely as
6.1 Measuring Stick or Steel Tape, graduated in 1-mm
possible along the length of the fabric or along a minimum of
( ⁄16-in.) divisions and longer than the width of the fabric that
1 m (1 yd). If possible, make no measurement closer to the
is to be measured.
ends of the roll or piece of fabric than1m(1 yd).
9.4.2 Follow a distinctive color yarn or pattern line across
6.2 Rigid Straightedge or t-square, longer than the width of
the width of the fabric. Trace one filling yarn, knitting course,
the fabric that is to be measured.
or printed line across the full width of the fabric using a soft
6.3 Flat Surface, of sufficient length to unroll or unfold the
pencil or suitable marker.
fabric (see 6.4).
9.4.3 Place a rigid straightedge across the fabric connecting
the points at which the distinctive color yarn or pattern line, or
6.4 Fabric Inspection Table (Optional), to unroll and roll
marked yarn meets the two selvages or edges.
fabric rolls or unfold and fold fabric bolts with sufficient
9.4.4 Measure the distance along the straightedge between
lighting that provides transmitted light from underneath the
the two selvages or edges to the nearest 1 mm ( ⁄16 in.) and
fabric to make the defect more clearly visible.
record as the baseline distance (BL).
9.4.4.1 Forcertainenduseswhereseveralnarrowpanelsare
7. Sampling and Test Specimens
sewn in a garment, it will be necessary to measure the bow
7.1 Primary Sampling Unit—Consider rolls or bolts of across a narrower distance than the total width of the fabric, for
fabric or fabric components of fabricated systems to be the
example, a width of 38 cm (15 in.).This distance is used as the
primary sampling unit, as applicable. fabric width when calculating the bow.
´1
D3882 − 08 (2016)
9.4.4.2 For automotive or other applications where narrow 9.5.4 Measure the distance along the straightedge or
panels or cut pieces are used, it will be necessary to measure t-square between the two selvages or edges (Line BC) to the
bowacrossanarrowerdistancethanacrossthefullwidthofthe nearest 1 mm ( ⁄16 in.) and record as the fabric width (W). (See
fabric, for example, a width of 400 mm (16 in.). Use this Fig. 2.)
...
This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
´1
Designation: D3882 − 08 (Reapproved 2016) D3882 − 08 (Reapproved 2016)
Standard Test Method for
Bow and Skew in Woven and Knitted Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3882; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
ε NOTE—The tolerances in 10.1 and 10.2 were corrected editorially in May 2017.
1. Scope
1.1 This test method covers the determination of bow and skew of filling yarns in woven fabrics and the courses in knitted
fabrics.
1.2 This test method can also be used to measure the bow and skew of printed geometric designs.
1.3 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each
system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the
two systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
limitations prior to use.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
D2904 Practice for Interlaboratory Testing of a Textile Test Method that Produces Normally Distributed Data (Withdrawn 2008)
D2906 Practice for Statements on Precision and Bias for Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
D3990 Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects
3. Terminology
3.1 For all terminology related to Fabric Defects see Terminology D3990.
3.2 The following terms are relevant to this standard: bow, double bow, double hooked bow, double reverse bow, hooked bow,
knitted fabric, skew, standard atmosphere for testing textiles.
3.3 For definitions of all other textile terms see Terminology D123.
4. Summary of Test Method
4.1 Bow—A straightedge is placed across the fabric between two points at which a marked filling yarn, knitting course,
designated printed line, or designated design meets the two selvages or edges. The greatest distance between the straightedge and
the marked filling line, knitting course, designated printed line, or designated design is measured parallel to the selvage.
4.2 Skew—The straight-line distortion of a marked filling yarn, knitting course, designated printed line, or designated design is
measured from its normal perpendicular to the selvage or edge.
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.60 on Fabric Test Methods, Specific.
ε1
Current edition approved July 1, 2016. Published July 2016. Originally approved in 1980. Last previous edition approved in 2012 as D3882 – 08(2012) . DOI:
10.1520/D3882-08R16.10.1520/D3882-08R16E01.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
´1
D3882 − 08 (2016)
5. Significance and Use
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments.
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative
tests should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a
minimum, the test samples to be used are as homogeneous as possible, are drawn from the material from which the disparate test
results were obtained, and are randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. Other fabrics with established
test values may be used for this purpose. The test results from the two laboratories should be compared using a statistical test for
unpaired data, at a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected,
or future test results must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
5.2 Individual rolls are normally accepted or rejected on the basis of the maximum amount of bow or skew in a specific roll
of fabric. The average bow or skew in a roll or lot or the range of bow or skew in a roll may be determined but are not normally
used in the trade for acceptance or rejection.
5.3 Bow or skew can be induced during fabric manufacturing, dyeing, tentering, finishing, or other operations where a potential
exists for uneven distribution of tensions across the fabric width. Bow and skew are more visually displeasing in colored, patterned
fabrics such as plaids and horizontal stripes rather than in solid colors because the contrast makes the distortion more prominent.
These defects may cause sewing problems in such fabrics and draping problems in finished products. In some cases, a specified
amount of skew is needed, for example, to prevent twisting of pant legs made of twill fabric. Matching plaids from distorted
patterns may create serious problems for the garment manufacturer or home sewer. Wavy or sharp breaks in the bow line are more
detrimental to the appearance of small parts of a garment (such as collars, pockets, and so forth) than a gradual slope from a straight
line.
5.3.1 Automotive interior textiles used for seat bolsters, cushions, headrests and door panels may be susceptible to bow and
skew, especially when visually patterned fabrics are joined or mated to a straight edge surface.
6. Apparatus
6.1 Measuring Stick or Steel Tape, graduated in 1-mm ( ⁄16-in.) divisions and longer than the width of the fabric that is to be
measured.
6.2 Rigid Straightedge or t-square, longer than the width of the fabric that is to be measured.
6.3 Flat Surface, of sufficient length to unroll or unfold the fabric (see 6.4).
6.4 Fabric Inspection Table (Optional), to unroll and roll fabric rolls or unfold and fold fabric bolts with sufficient lighting that
provides transmitted light from underneath the fabric to make the defect more clearly visible.
7. Sampling and Test Specimens
7.1 Primary Sampling Unit—Consider rolls or bolts of fabric or fabric components of fabricated systems to be the primary
sampling unit, as applicable.
7.2 Laboratory Sampling Unit—As a laboratory sampling unit take the entire roll or bolt after removing a first 1-mm (1-yd)
length. For fabric components of fabricated systems, use the entire system.
7.3 Test Specimens—As test specimens, select 3 test areas from each laboratory sampling unit. Exclude the first and last fifth
of the roll or bolt or piece length. Select test areas at random but no closer to one another than one fifth of the roll or bolt or piece
length.
7.3.1 Optical test specimens—Select 3 test areas from each sampling unit. Exclude the first and last 10 m (11 yd) of a roll and
test random areas within the roll.
7.3.1.1 Cut pieces that are at least 400 mm (16 in.) in width can be measured for bow and skew.
8. Conditioning
8.1 Condition the test specimens to moisture equilibrium for testing in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles in accordance
with Practice D1776 or, if applicable, in the specified atmosphere in which the testing is to be performed.
8.1.1 When full rolls or bolts of fabric cannot be properly conditioned in a reasonable time with available facilities, perform
the test without conditioning and report the actual condition prevailing at the time of the test. Such results may not correspond with
the results obtained when testing conditioned specimens at the standard atmosphere for testing textiles.
9. Procedure
9.1 Test the test specimens in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles in accordance with Section 8.
9.2 Handle the test specimens carefully to avoid altering the natural state of the material.
9.3 Lay the fabric on a smooth, horizontal surface without tension in any direction or use the optional fabric inspection table.
´1
D3882 − 08 (2016)
9.4 Bow:
9.4.1 Measure the bow in three places spaced as widely as possible along the length of the fabric or along a minimum of 1 m
(1 yd). If possible, make no measurement closer to the ends of the roll or piece of fabric than 1 m (1 yd).
9.4.2 Follow a distinctive color yarn or pattern line across the width of the fabric. Trace one filling yarn, knitting course, or
printed line across the full width of the fabric using a soft pencil or suitable marker.
9.4.3 Place a rigid straightedge across the fabric connecting the points at which the distinctive color yarn or pattern line, or
marked yarn meets the two selvages or edges.
9.4.4 Measure the distance along the straightedge between the two selvages or edges to the nearest 1 mm ( ⁄16 in.) and record
as the baseline distance (BL).
9.4.4.1 For certain end uses where several narrow panels are sewn in a garment, it will be necessary to measure the bow across
a narrower distance than the total width of the fabric, for example, a width of 38 cm (15 in.). This distance is used as the fabric
width when calculating the bow.
9.4.4.2 For automotive or other applications where narrow panels or cut pieces are used, it will be necessary to measure bow
across a narrower distance than across the full width of the fabric, for example, a width of 400 mm (16 in.). Use this distance as
the fabric width when calculating bow.
9.4.5 Measure the greatest distance parallel t
...
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