ASTM D3181-95(2008)
(Guide)Standard Guide for Conducting Wear Tests on Textiles
Standard Guide for Conducting Wear Tests on Textiles
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
This guide may be used to evaluate textiles used in apparel, upholstered furniture, floor coverings, window treatments, and bed, bath and table linens.
This guide may be used for several purposes:
5.2.1 To determine the comparative performance of new or existing products,
5.2.2 To determine the suitability of current products in different end-uses, and
5.2.3 To evaluate and compare the effect of wear of construction details as well as specific fabrics, fibers, dyeings, finishing, fabrication techniques, etc.
This guide provides for flexibility in design and evaluation since the information sought from each wear test will vary (see Appendix X1).
This guide may be used to compare the wear performance of two or more textiles when these are included in the same test, or to compare a textile whose properties have not been evaluated with one having a known performance history.
SCOPE
1.1 This guide is designed to provide data on which a prediction can be based concerning the expected wear performance of a wide variety of textiles in end-use conditions.
This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation:D3181–95 (Reapproved 2008)
Standard Guide for
Conducting Wear Tests on Textiles
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3181; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D3886 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Apparatus)
1.1 This guide is designed to provide data on which a
D3936 Test Method for Resistance to Delamination of the
prediction can be based concerning the expected wear perfor-
Secondary Backing of Pile Yarn Floor Covering
mance of a wide variety of textiles in end-use conditions.
D3938 Guide for Determining or Confirming Care Instruc-
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the
tions for Apparel and Other Textile Products
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
D3939 Test Method for Snagging Resistance of Fabrics
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
(Mace)
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
D4157 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)
2. Referenced Documents
D4231 PracticeforEvaluationofLaunderableWovenDress
Shirts and Sports Shirts
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D4390 NO TITLE
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D4721 Practice for Evaluation of the Performance of Ma-
D1335 Test Method for Tuft Bind of Pile Yarn Floor
chine Washable and Drycleanable Bedcoverings and Ac-
Coverings
cessories
D2051 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers to
D4852 Practice for Evaluation ofAttached Upholstery Fab-
Laundering
rics
D2052 Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers to Dry-
2.2 AATCC Standards:
cleaning
5 Evaluation Procedure: Subjective Evaluation of Fabric
D2057 Test Method for Colorfastness of Zippers to Laun-
Hand
dering
8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
D2058 Test Method for Durability of Finish of Zippers to
88B Appearance of Seams in Wash-and-Wear Items After
Drycleaning
Home Laundering
D3511 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-
88C Appearance of Creases in Wash-and-Wear Items After
lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Brush Pilling
Home Laundering
Tester
96 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven and
D3512 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-
Knitted Textiles (Excluding Wool)
lated Surface Changes ofTextile Fabrics: RandomTumble
119 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Screen
Pilling Tester
Wire Method
D3514 Test Method for Pilling Resistance and Other Re-
120 Color Change Due to Flat Abrasion (Frosting): Emery
lated Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics: Elastomeric Pad
Method
D3884 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
121 Carpet Soiling: Visual Rating Method
Fabrics (Rotary Platform, Double-Head Method)
122 Carpet Soiling: Service Soiling Method
D3885 Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile
123 Carpet Soiling: Accelerated Soiling Method
Fabrics (Flexing and Abrasion Method)
124 Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home Launder-
ings
This guide is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and
128 Wrinkle Recovery of Fabrics: Appearance Method
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.60 on Fabric Test Methods, 4
130 Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method
Specific.
150 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering
Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originally
approved in 1973. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D3181 – 95 (2002).
DOI: 10.1520/D3181-95R08.
2 3
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or Withdrawn. The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM on www.astm.org.
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on Annual AATCC Technical Manual, available from American Association of
the ASTM website. TextileChemistsandColorists,P.O.Box12215,ResearchTrianglePark,NC 27709.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D3181–95 (2008)
of Woven Garments 4. Summary of Guide
158 Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroeth-
4.1 Textiles are subjected to actual wear under service
ylene: Machine Method
conditions. This practice recommends a control textile having
163 Color Fastness: Dye Transfer in Storage: Fabric-to-
a known wear performance history to be included with other
Fabric
items being tested. Statistical methods for design of test and
2.3 Other Documents:
analysis of data are included that are applicable to all wear
Knit Upholstery Fabric Standards and Guidelines
tests. Standard procedures for evaluation of textiles are pro-
Woven Upholstery Fabric Standards and Guidelines
vided.
3. Terminology
5. Significance and Use
3.1 Definitions:
5.1 This guide may be used to evaluate textiles used in
3.1.1 control textile, n—a textile having a known history,
apparel, upholstered furniture, floor coverings, window treat-
the performance of which in a specific end-use has been
ments, and bed, bath and table linens.
established previously, and which is used as a standard of
5.2 This guide may be used for several purposes:
comparison.
5.2.1 To determine the comparative performance of new or
3.1.2 end-use, n—in wear testing,theuseforwhichatextile
existing products,
is intended.
5.2.2 To determine the suitability of current products in
3.1.3 evaluation period, n—the period of time an item is
different end-uses, and
used before being evaluated on the specific performance
5.2.3 To evaluate and compare the effect of wear of con-
properties.
struction details as well as specific fabrics, fibers, dyeings,
3.1.4 grade, n—in textile testing, the symbol for any step of
finishing, fabrication techniques, etc.
a multistep standard reference scale, for a quality characteris-
5.3 This guide provides for flexibility in design and evalu-
tic.
ation since the information sought from each wear test will
3.1.4.1 Discussion—The grade is assigned to test specimen
vary (see Appendix X1).
exhibitingadegreeofthequalitycomparabletothatstepofthe
5.4 This guide may be used to compare the wear perfor-
standard. Numerical grades assigned to different specimens
mance of two or more textiles when these are included in the
from a sample, or by different observers are commonly
same test, or to compare a textile whose properties have not
averaged (AATCC).
been evaluated with one having a known performance history.
3.1.5 participant, n— in wear testing, any individual that
uses a test or control textile during a wear test. 6. Apparatus
3.1.5.1 Discussion—The term does not include additional
6.1 Viewing Board, with standard lighting, as specified in
personnelcontributingotherservicesneededtocarryoutatest.
AATCC 124.
3.1.6 performance property, n— in wear testing,anychemi-
6.2 Smoothness Appearance Replicas, as specified in
cal or physical property of a fiber, yarn, or fabric that is
AATCC 124.
evaluated during the wear-refurbishing cycles.
6.3 Gray Scale for Color Change, as specified in AATCC
3.1.7 rating, n—in textile testing, the process for determin-
Evaluation Procedure 1.
ing or assigning a grade to a material by comparing it to a
6.4 Soil Release Replicas,asspecifiedinAATCC130-1981.
standard reference scale.
6.5 Pilling Standards, as specified in Test Method D3512.
3.1.8 wear level, n—thenumberofwear-refurbishingcycles
6.6 Seam Puckering Standards, as specified in AATCC
to which an item has been subjected.
88B-1984.
3.1.9 wear-refurbishing cycle, n—for a specific wear testing
6.7 Crease Retention Standards, as specified in AATCC
program, one complete series of events that may be terminated
88C.
by laundering or dry cleaning.
6.8 Photographic Standards for Evaluating Shirt Compo-
3.1.9.1 Discussion—A description of a wear-refurbishing
nents (collar, pocket, placket), as specified in Practice D4231.
cycle usually includes the number of hours worn or used and
6.9 Work Sheets, to record data (see Fig. 1).
the number of wearing or uses an item receives prior to
refurbishing (that is, laundering or drycleaning), or both. 7. Sampling, Selection, and Number of Specimens
3.1.10 wear-service condition, n—the specific conditions
7.1 Division into Lots—For acceptance testing, divide the
under which a textile is used.
product into lots as agreed upon between the purchaser and the
3.1.11 wear test, n—a test in which textiles are subjected to
supplier.
wear-service conditions and evaluated for performance.
7.2 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing,
3.1.12 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
take at random the number of shipping cartons directed in an
practice, refer to Terminology D123.
applicable material specification or other agreement between
the purchaser and the supplier.
NOTE 1—A realistic specification or other agreement between the
Issued in 1982 by the Joint-Industry Fabric Standards Committee. Available
from the American Furniture Mfrs. Assc., P. O. Box Hp-7, High Point, NC 27261.
Re-issued in 1986 by the Joint-Industry Fabric Standards Committee.Available
from the American Furniture Mfrs. Assc., P. O. Box Hp-7, High Point, NC 27261. This is the same as ISO R105/1, Part 2.
D3181–95 (2008)
Wear Test Identification Number ____________
Wear Level _____________________________
Fabric Identification ______________________
PARTICIPANTS
12 34 56 78 9 10 etc.
Evaluation Date
Times Worn
Hours Worn
Times Refurbished
Abrasion
Bagging
Color Change
Crease Retention
Dimensional Stability
Fabric Smoothness
Holes
% Length Change
% Width Change
Pilling
Seam Puckering
Snagging
Washdown (Hand)
Wear Wrinkling
Etc.
FIG. 1 Wear Test Work Sheet
purchaser and the supplier requires taking into account the variability
ing the total wear period at predetermined times. Destructive
between shipping cartons, between items within a carton, and between
evaluations should occur at the end of the total wear period,
specimens within an item so as to provide a sampling plan which has a
unless additional textile items are included in the initial wear
meaningful producer’s risk, meaningful consumer’s risk, acceptable
test plan for withdrawal and destructive testing.
quality level, and limiting quality level.
8.9 Establish the wear period at which time the test is
7.3 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for accep-
terminated automatically.
tance testing, take at least two items from each shipping carton
8.10 Alternatively, establish the percentage of specimens
in the lot sample.
that must fail to constitute overall unsatisfactory performance.
7.4 Test Specimens—Take test specimens from each item in
Terminate the test when the established level for failure has
thelaboratorysampleasdirectedintheindividualtestmethods
been reached (see Note 2).
or as agreed upon between the purchaser and the supplier.
Perform each test on the product as it will reach the consumer.
8.11 Establish the number of wear-refurbishing cycles that
will constitute overall satisfactory performance. The wear test
8. Procedure
may be terminated at this point even though no specimen may
8.1 Decide on the type and design of the textile to be tested.
have failed.
8.2 Define the objectives of the test clearly.
8.12 Define the use-refurbishing cycle by establishing the
8.3 List the information to be obtained from the test.
number of hours (days) worn or used, and the number of uses
8.4 Selecttheperformancepropertiesthatmustbeevaluated
the textile will receive before refurbishing, or both, and the
to obtain the necessary information. See Table 1.
method by which the item will be refurbished.
8.5 Decide which specific areas of the textile will be
8.13 Select a suitable control textile to include in the test as
evaluated for each property. See Table 2.
a standard of comparison.
8.6 Establish how each performance property will be evalu-
8.14 Based on the number of conditions being tested, as
ated and what rating scale will be used.
well as the time and cost involved, develop a suitable design
8.7 For each performance property, decide what test value
for the wear test (see Appendix X1).
or grade will constitute a satisfactory or unsatisfactory perfor-
mance to meet the objectives of the test (see Note 2).
8.15 Decide on, and arrange for, the number of participants
needed to conduct the test according to the selected plan.
NOTE 2—These values are established based on experience and may
8.16 Determine the exact sizes of the garments or other
vary with end use. There are generally accepted techniques or references
for establishing these values.
textiles required for each participant.
8.17 Decide on the style, color, etc., of the textiles to be
8.8 Identify which evaluation procedures are destructive
and nondestructive. Nondestructive evaluations can occur dur- wear tested to reach the objective.
D3181–95 (2008)
TABLE 1 Properties That May Be Examined After Each Wear- TABLE 2 Examples of Areas of Potential Wear That May Be
Refurbishing Cycle or Evaluation Period Evaluated
Existing Test Methods or Garment Area
Property
Other Standards
Shirts and blouses collar, right and left
Possibilities for Apparel Evaluation cuff, right and left
Abrasion Resistance D3884, D3885 elbow, right and left
D3886, D4157 underarm, right and left
Appearance of collar D4231
pocket, right and left
Appearance of creases AATCC 88-C front, right and left
Appearance of pocket D4231 back
Appearance of placket D4231 placket
Appearance of seams AATCC 88-B, Trousers and ladies slacks front pocket area and below right and left
AATCC 119 fly
Appearance of zippers D2051, D2052 knee, right and left
D2057, D2058
crotch area
Color change, frosting AATCC 119, AATCC 120 back pocket area, right and left
Color change, crocking AATCC 8
seat
Dimensional stability AATCC 96 cuffs
Fabric smoothness AATCC 124 crease
Fabric hand AATCC Eval. 5 Dresses collar or neckline
Pilling resistance D3511, D3512 cuff, right and left
D3514 elbow, right and left
Snagging resistance D3939 underarm, right and left
Wear wrinkling
bodice, front and back
Possibilities for Carpet Evaluation skirt, front and back
Abrasion resistance D3884 pocket
Delamination of backing D3936 hem line
Shampooing AATCC 138 pleats
Soiling AATCC 121 Floor coverings traffic path areas
AATCC 122 seamed areas
AATCC 123 Upholstery armrest
Tuft bind D1335 head rest
Po
...
Questions, Comments and Discussion
Ask us and Technical Secretary will try to provide an answer. You can facilitate discussion about the standard in here.