EN 959:2018

Mountaineering equipment - Rock anchors - Safety requirements and test methods

This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for rock anchors for use in mountaineering including climbing.

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Bohrhaken - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Dieses Dokument legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Bohrhaken fest, die beim Bergsteigen einschließlich Klettern verwendet werden.

Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Amarrages pour rocher - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d’essai

Le présent document spécifie les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai des amarrages pour rocher utilisés en alpinisme et en escalade.

Gorniška oprema - Sidra za skalo - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode

Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za sidra za skalo za uporabo v gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem.

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 18-Dec-2018
• Withdrawal Date: 29-Jun-2019
• ICS: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment
• Technical Committee: CEN/TC 136 - Sports, playground and other recreational equipment
• Drafting Committee: CEN/TC 136/WG 5 - Mountaineering and climbing equipment
• Current Stage: 9092 - Decision on results of review/2YR ENQ - revise - Review Enquiry
• Start Date: 14-Aug-2024
• Completion Date: 14-Apr-2025
• Ref Project: SIST EN 959:2019 - Mountaineering equipment - Rock anchors - Safety requirements and test methods

Relations

• Replaces: EN 959:2007 - Mountaineering equipment - Rock anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
• Effective Date: 18-May-2016

Overview

EN 959:2018 - "Mountaineering equipment - Rock anchors - Safety requirements and test methods" (CEN) defines safety, design and testing requirements for rock anchors used in mountaineering and climbing. Published December 2018, it supersedes EN 959:2007 and standardizes materials, geometry, load-bearing performance and test procedures to help manufacturers, test laboratories, route developers and certifying bodies ensure anchors are fit for repeated use in outdoor and indoor climbing environments.

Key topics and technical requirements

• Scope: Safety requirements and test methods for rock anchors (glued‑in, expansion, positive locking) intended for repeated use after installation.
• Materials & corrosion: Addresses galvanic corrosion, general corrosion and Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC). Recommends avoiding polyester-type glue and sets anchor classes for different environments (examples include titanium grade 2 and various stainless steel grades listed in Table 1).
• Design & dimensions:
  • Eye thickness: overall border thickness ≥ 2.9 mm; inner eye width ≥ 2.0 mm where bevelled edges apply.
  • Edge rounding: external corners >12 mm from rock surface: radius ≥ 10 mm. Inner eye edges: radius ≥ 0.2 mm or bevel 0.2 mm × 45°.
  • Eye must accept two pins (lower 15 ±0.1 mm, upper 11 ±0.1 mm) for testing.
  • Belay anchor linking elements: metallic components of linked anchors must be of the same material.
• Installed length: glued‑in anchors ≥ 70 mm; mechanical anchors ≥ 5 × drilled hole diameter (manufacturer instructions apply).
• Load‑bearing capacity:
  • Axial: withstand 15 kN (tested per clause 5.3.2.2).
  • Radial: withstand 25 kN (clause 5.3.2.3).
  • Belay linking / rope points: withstand 25 kN (clause 4.3.3).
• Test methods: concrete test block 200×200×200 mm, compressive strength 50 ±10 N/mm², defined loading cycles using 10 ±0.1 mm pins, cyclic preloading (8 kN ×10 within 10 min) then loading to failure.
• Marking & information: anchors must be indelibly marked with manufacturer name/logo, batch/serial number, anchor class (circled) and model identifier; manufacturers must supply installation and maintenance information.

Applications and users

• Manufacturers of rock anchors and fixings - for product design, materials selection and conformity evidence.
• Independent test laboratories - to perform standardized axial/radial and linkage tests.
• Route developers, climbing gym operators and mountaineering associations - for safe selection, installation guidance and inspection/maintenance regimes.
• Certification bodies and procurement teams - to verify compliance and select anchors suited to environmental exposure (marine cliffs, indoor gyms, polluted/industrial sites).

Related standards

• ISO 1920-3 (concrete specimen preparation for test blocks) - referenced for concrete test verification.
• EN 12275 - referenced for connector terminology.
• Annex A of EN 959 lists other mountaineering equipment standards within the CEN/UIAA package.

Keywords: EN 959:2018, rock anchors, mountaineering equipment, safety requirements, test methods, climbing anchors, load‑bearing capacity, stress corrosion cracking, anchor testing.

Standards Content (Sample)

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-marec-2019
1DGRPHãþD
SIST EN 959:2008
Gorniška oprema - Sidra za skalo - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Rock anchors - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Bohrhaken - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Amarrages pour rocher - Exigences de sécurité
et méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 959:2018
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

EN 959
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
December 2018
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 959:2007
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Rock anchors - Safety
requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Amarrages Bergsteigerausrüstung - Bohrhaken -
pour rocher - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
d'essai Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 29 July 2018.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania,
Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland,
Turkey and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2018 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 959:2018 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

Contents Page
European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 6
4.1 Material(s) . 6
4.2 Design . 7
4.3 Load-bearing capacity . 9
4.3.1 Axial load-bearing capacity . 9
4.3.2 Radial load-bearing capacity . 10
4.3.3 Belay rock anchor linking elements . 10
5 Test methods . 10
5.1 Check of materials. 10
5.2 Concrete block . 10
5.3 Procedure. 10
5.3.1 Examination of design . 10
5.3.2 Determination of load-bearing capacity . 10
6 Marking . 12
7 Information supplied by the manufacturer . 12
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 14
Annex B (informative) Choice of materials for different environmental conditions and the
consequences for inspection and maintenance . 15
Annex C (informative) Stress corrosion cracking of steel anchors . 16
Annex D (informative) General guidance for placing rock anchors . 17
Bibliography . 18

European foreword
This document (EN 959:2018) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by June 2019, and conflicting national standards shall be
withdrawn at the latest by June 2019.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document supersedes EN 959:2007.
Changes made in comparison with EN 959:2007:
a) definition for “eye” added;
b) definition for “connector” added;
c) classes for rock anchors added in 4.1 “materials” and amendments of 4.1;
d) amendment of 4.2 “Design” and change of the overall thickness of the border of the eye;
e) amendment of 5.3.2 “Determination of load-bearing capacity”;
f) amendment of Clause 6 “Marking”;
g) amendment of Clause 7 “Information supplied by the manufacturer”;
h) inclusion of informative Annex C “Stress corrosion cracking of steel anchors”;
i) Annex C “General guidance for placing rock anchors” changed to Annex D;
j) editorial amendments;
k) introduction of a new class of rock anchor designed especially for the top of a route for
lowering/rappelling.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria,
Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia,
France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta,
Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland,
Turkey and the United Kingdom.
Introduction
The text of this document is based on the former UIAA Standard P (Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation.
This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for rock anchors for use in
mountaineering including climbing.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 1920-3, Testing of concrete - Part 3: Making and curing test specimens
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
• IEC Electropedia: available at http://www.electropedia.org/
• ISO Online browsing platform: available at http://www.iso.org/obp
3.1
rock anchor
anchoring device intended for repeated use after installation, that is inserted into a drilled hole in the
rock and held in place by gluing, or expansion forces, or positive locking, and with an attachment point
for a connector
3.2
connector
openable device, which enables a mountaineer to link himself directly or indirectly to an anchor or to
link parts of the equipment together
[SOURCE: EN 12275:2013, definition 3.1]
3.3
eye
attachment point for a connector
3.4
body of the rock anchor
part of the rock anchor that will be installed in the rock
3.5
hanger
attachment point capable of being separated from the body of a rock anchor
3.6
installed length
distance from the rock surface to the furthest point of the body in mechanical contact with the rock or
bonded to the rock, after installation
3.7
belay rock anchor
rock anchors linked together specifically designed to be placed at the top of a pitch (section) of the
climbing route, to enable the climbers to belay, be lowered down, or to lower themselves down
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Material(s)
If rock anchors are manufactured from a combination of different materials, the materials shall be
selected to avoid galvanic corrosion.
The use of polyester type glue shall not be recommended.
Depending on environmental factors, rock anchors are potentially liable to suffer from:
a) galvanic corrosion,
b) corrosion,
c) Stress Corrosion Cracking (SCC).
For a choice of specified materials for rock anchor class, refer to Table 1, Annex B and Annex C. Other
materials may be suitable if their resistance to SCC and other characteristics are demonstrable by the
manufacturer to be equal to or better than the minimum specified in the relevant anchor class given in
Table 1.
Table 1 — Rock anchors class and characteristics
Anchor Suitable Characteristics of Specified
Remarks
class Environment environment materials
SCC in evidence
Titanium grade 2
high chloride concentration,
3.7035
Although SCC is
temperature above 30 °C,
commonly associated
&
humidity between
with seaside cliffs, it can
Stainless steel
aggressive SCC (20 – 70)%
1 also occur in inland
environment
1.4565
sea salt and/or other salts
locations and in other
(e.g. from karst: limestone/
1.4529
locations, e.g. indoor
dolomite)
swimming pools.
1.4547
and/or
1.4539
acidic environment
outdoor
1.4401
No SCC in evidence and
environment, 1.4301 and 1.4306 steel is
none suspected
2 not aggressive 1.4404 not recommended for
enough to outdoor use.
some corrosion agents
1.4435
cause SCC
low grade
Rock anchors in indoor
protection from
gyms and in proximity to
corrosion, e.g.
indoor use, No SCC in evidence and industrial areas,
3 galvanization on
climbing gyms none suspected swimming pools, or the
steel, anodizing
sea may require use of
on aluminium
class 1 or class 2 anchor.
alloy
4.2 Design
4.2.1 The rock anchor shall have an eye which allows a connector to be attached. The overall
thickness of the rock anchor in which the eye is made shall be ≥ 2,9 mm (see Figure 2).
The overall thickness of the border of the eye shall be ≥ 2,9 mm. If the edges are bevelled, the remaining
inner surface shall have a minimum width of 2 mm.
4.2.2 All corners that will be more than 12 mm from the rock surface shall be rounded to a radius R of
a minimum 10 mm (see Figure 1).
Dimensions in millimetres
Key
R minimum 10 mm
NOTE A-A see Figure 2
Figure 1 — Clear width and external shape of the eye
4.2.3 All edges that can be handled after placement of the rock anchor in the rock shall be free from
burrs and sharp edges. The inner edges of the eye shall be rounded to a radius R of minimum 0,2 mm or
bevelled to a minimum of 0,2 mm × 45° (see Figure 2).
Key
l minimum 0,2 mm × 45 °
l minimum 2 mm
l minimum 2,9 mm
Figure 2 — Internal edges of the eye
4.2.4 After inserting the rock anchor into the concrete block, the eye shall be wide enough to
accommodate two pins, one with a diameter of (15 ± 0,1) mm for the lower part and one with a
diameter of (11 ± 0,1) mm for the upper part (see Figure 1).
4.2.5 In case of expansion-type rock anchors the expansion shall not be dependent on contact with
the bottom of the drilled hole.
...