EN 13089:2011+A3:2023
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Eisgeräte fest, die beim Bergsteigen, einschließlich Klettern, verwendet werden und als vergrabener Ankerpunkt zum Schutz gegen Absturz dienen.
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Le présent document spécifie des exigences de sécurité et des méthodes d’essai relatives aux outils à glace utilisés dans la pratique de l’alpinisme et de l’escalade, ainsi que comme point d’ancrage enfoui dans la neige pour la protection contre les chutes.
Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode (z dopolnili do vključno A3)
Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za orodje za led za uporabo v gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem, in kot vkopano sidro za zaščito pred padci.
General Information
Relations
Overview - EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 (Ice-tools, safety requirements and test methods)
EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 is the CEN European Standard for mountaineering equipment - specifically ice-tools used for movement on snow, ice and rock and for use as a buried anchor to protect against falls. The document defines safety requirements, classification (type 1 / type 2), mandatory marking and the test methods manufacturers and test laboratories must use to verify strength and durability. It also supports essential requirements of EU legislation (see Annex ZA).
Key topics and technical requirements
- Scope and definitions
- Covers hand‑held ice-tools comprising at least a shaft and a pick.
- Defines type 1 (for snow/ice) and type 2 (for rock, snow and/or ice) tools and picks.
- Mechanical safety requirements
- Edges: all user-contacting edges must be free of burrs and sharpness.
- Shaft strength: permanent deformation after a defined load must not exceed 3 mm (or a scaled value f) when tested per clause 5.3.3.
- Strength in load directions YY and XX: specified static forces must not cause breakage or components to work loose; permanent deformation limits are given (e.g., 10 mm limit in XX).
- Pick strength: tested as a bending moment with maximum permissible permanent deformation (70 mm or a calculated value).
- Test methods
- Conditioning of test samples at (–30 ± 5) °C for at least 1 hour; tests performed at (23 ± 5) °C and started within 3 minutes of removal.
- Test duration and loading: loads applied without shock and maintained for (60 ± 5) s.
- Example test loads: shaft baseline load F = 2 500 N (scaled for short samples); YY loads ~600 N (type 1) / 900 N (type 2); XX ~2 500 N (type 1) / 4 000 N (type 2); pick moments ~42 Nm (type 1) / 60 Nm (type 2) with a 330 mm lever (scaled if shorter).
- Marking and user information
- Mandatory durable marking of manufacturer, category marking (a circled “T” for type 2 where required), and a pictogram directing users to supplied information.
- Manufacturers must supply an explanatory leaflet including EN 13089 reference, use instructions and meaning of markings.
Applications - who uses EN 13089
- Manufacturers and designers of ice‑tools to ensure products meet EU/CEN safety expectations.
- Test laboratories and conformity assessment bodies to perform standardized mechanical tests and verify compliance.
- Procurement officers and retailers selecting safe, certified mountaineering tools.
- Advanced users, guides and mountain rescue services for understanding product classification, limitations and marking.
Related standards
- EN 565 (tape) is referenced for test apparatus. See Annex A of EN 13089 for the wider package of mountaineering equipment standards and Annex ZA for regulatory relationships.
Standards Content (Sample)
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-julij-2023
Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode (z
dopolnili do vključno A3)
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et
méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 13089:2011+A3:2023
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
EN 13089:2011+A3
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
April 2023
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 13089:2011+A2:2021
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety
requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte -
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 17 October 2021 and includes Amendment 3 approved by CEN on 21
December 2022.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2023 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
Contents Page
European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 6
4.1 Edges . 6
4.2 Shaft strength . 6
4.3 Strength in the load direction YY. 6
4.4 Strength in the load direction XX . 6
4.5 Pick strength . 7
5 Test methods . 7
5.1 Preparation of test samples . 7
5.2 Apparatus . 7
5.3 Procedure. 7
5.3.1 Test sample . 7
5.3.2 Edges . 8
5.3.3 Shaft strength . 8
5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY. 9
5.3.5 Strength in the load direction XX . 9
5.3.6 Pick strength . 10
6 Marking . 11
7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 12
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13
Annex ZA (informative) #Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered . 14
European foreword
This document (EN 13089:2011+A3:2023) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136
“Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by
DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October 2023, and conflicting national standards shall
be withdrawn at the latest by October 2023.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document supersedes %EN 13089:2011+A2:2021&.
This document includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 19 March 2015, Amendment 2 approved by
CEN on 17 October 2021 and Amendment 3 approved by CEN on 21 December 2022.
The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags !",
#$ and %&.
This document has been prepared under a standardization request given to CEN by the European
Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU
Directive(s) / Regulation(s).
For relationship with EU Directive(s) /Regulation(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral
part of this document.
In comparison with the previous edition EN 13089:1999, the following significant changes have been
made:
a) an editorial revision has been carried on;
b) the Scope is more specified to ice-tools as protection against falls;
c) there is a new classification of ice-tools;
d) Subclause 4.7 was deleted;
e) the test method for shaft strength has been revised;
f) Subclause 5.3.7 was deleted;
g) there is an additional marking.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards body.
A complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria,
Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland,
Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of
North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and the
United Kingdom.
Introduction
This document is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des !Associations"
d'Alpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation.
This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering
including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
%EN 565:2017, Mountaineering equipment - Tape - Safety requirements and test methods&
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
ice-tool
hand held tool intended for movement on snow and/or ice and/or rock which can also be used as an
anchor point or as a brake in snow and comprises at least a shaft and a pick
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
3.2
type 1 ice-tool
ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use in snow and/or ice
3.3
type 2 ice-tool
ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice
3.4
type 1 pick
pick intended for use in snow and/or ice
3.5
type 2 pick
pick intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice
Key
1 Shaft of the ice-tool
2 Pick of the ice-tool
Figure 1 — Main parts of an ice-tool
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Edges
All edges of the ice-tool with which the user's hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs. The
shaft of the ice tool has to be free of sharp edges.
4.2 Shaft strength
When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent deformation
at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 3 mm or the calculated f value.
K
4.3 Strength in the load direction YY
When tested in the load direction YY (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.4,
a) the
...
Frequently Asked Questions
EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 is a standard published by the European Committee for Standardization (CEN). Its full title is "Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods". This standard covers: This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 is classified under the following ICS (International Classification for Standards) categories: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment. The ICS classification helps identify the subject area and facilitates finding related standards.
EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 has the following relationships with other standards: It is inter standard links to EN 13089:2011+A2:2021. Understanding these relationships helps ensure you are using the most current and applicable version of the standard.
EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 is associated with the following European legislation: EU Directives/Regulations: 2016/425; Standardization Mandates: M/571, M/571 AMD 1. When a standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Union, products manufactured in conformity with it benefit from a presumption of conformity with the essential requirements of the corresponding EU directive or regulation.
You can purchase EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 directly from iTeh Standards. The document is available in PDF format and is delivered instantly after payment. Add the standard to your cart and complete the secure checkout process. iTeh Standards is an authorized distributor of CEN standards.
SIST EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 표준은 산악 등반에 사용되는 아이스 툴의 안전 요구 사항 및 테스트 방법을 구체적으로 규명하는 유럽 표준으로, 등반과 낙하 방지를 위한 매설 앵커로 사용되는 장비에 대해 분명한 기준을 제공합니다. 이 표준은 아이스 툴이 갖추어야 할 필수 안전 특성을 정의함으로써 사용자의 안전을 증진하는 데 큰 기여를 하고 있습니다. 이 표준의 강점 중 하나는 포괄적인 테스트 방법을 제공한다는 점입니다. 이를 통해 사용자들은 장비에 대해 신뢰할 수 있는 정보를 얻을 수 있으며, 실제 사용 상황에서의 성능을 평가할 수 있습니다. 특히, 여름과 겨울 등반에서 필수적인 안전 장비로서 아이스 툴이 적합한지 여부를 판단하는 데 도움을 줍니다. 또한, SIST EN 13089:2011+A3:2023는 최신 기술과 장비의 발전을 반영하여 지속적으로 업데이트되고 있으며, 이에 따라 현대적인 요구 사항을 준수하게 설계되었습니다. 이러한 점은 장비 제조업체와 사용자 모두에게 중요한 요소로, 시장에서의 경쟁력을 높이는 데 기여합니다. 이 표준은 또한 다양한 환경에서 발생할 수 있는 위험 요소를 사전에 예방하는 데 중점을 두고 있어, 안전한 등반 활동을 위한 필수적인 지침을 제공합니다. 이와 같은 체계적인 접근은 산악 활동에 참여하는 모든 이들에게 큰 의미가 있습니다. 결론적으로, SIST EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 표준은 아이스 툴에 대한 명확하고 실용적인 지침을 제공함으로써, 안전하고 효과적인 장비 사용을 촉진시키고 있습니다. 이러한 점에서 It is a critical resource for mountaineers who prioritize safety in their climbing endeavors.
The EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 standard is a comprehensive document that focuses on the safety requirements and test methods specifically for ice-tools used in mountaineering. This standard plays a crucial role in ensuring that ice-tools meet stringent safety criteria, which is vital for protecting climbers against falls. One of the key strengths of this standard is its thoroughness in defining safety parameters. By incorporating detailed test methods, EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 establishes a reliable framework for evaluating the durability and performance of ice-tools. This is particularly important as the use of ice-tools varies widely in climbing conditions, and the standard ensures that a range of potential scenarios is considered, enhancing users' safety. The relevance of this standard cannot be overstated, especially considering the increasing popularity of mountaineering among outdoor enthusiasts. With the inherent risks associated with climbing in icy conditions, having a reliable standard like EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 provides climbers with confidence in the gear they are using. It emphasizes the importance of using equipment that has undergone rigorous testing and meets European safety norms. Moreover, the standard also addresses the use of ice-tools as buried anchors, which adds another layer of safety in climbing practices. This dual functionality underscores the standard's extensive scope, making it an indispensable reference for manufacturers and users alike. In summary, EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 stands out as a critical standard in the realm of mountaineering equipment. Its focus on safety requirements and testing methodologies ensures that all ice-tools are reliable, offering peace of mind to climbers while navigating challenging icy terrains.
La norme SIST EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 définit des exigences de sécurité et des méthodes d'essai pour les équipements d'alpinisme, en particulier les piolets. Ce document est essentiel pour assurer la sécurité des utilisateurs dans des conditions de glace, tant pour l'escalade que pour l'utilisation des piolets comme ancrages enterrés pour se protéger contre les chutes. Le champ d'application de cette norme est large, abordant différents aspects des piolets, ce qui est déterminant pour les fabricants et les utilisateurs. Elle garantit que tous les équipements répondent à des critères stricts, renforçant ainsi la confiance des alpinistes lors de leur pratique. Les exigences de sécurité établies permettent de minimiser les risques lors de l'utilisation de ces outils dans des environnements aussi exigeants que la montagne. Un des points forts de la norme EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 réside dans ses méthodes d'essai rigoureuses. Ces tests sont conçus pour évaluer la durabilité et la performance des piolets dans des conditions réelles, assurant que chaque produit sur le marché a été soumis à des vérifications minutieuses. Cela contribue à standardiser la qualité des équipements d'alpinisme, réduisant les variations qui peuvent avoir des conséquences graves lors des expéditions. En matière de pertinence, cette norme est particulièrement actuelle, répondant aux besoins des alpinistes en quête de sécurité accrue et d’équipements fiables. Dans un domaine où la sécurité est primordiale, la norme est une référence incontournable qui guide les bonnes pratiques et assure que les produits commercialisés respectent les plus hauts standards de qualité. En somme, le document SIST EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 s’inscrit parfaitement dans le paysage des normes de sécurité pour l'équipement d'alpinisme, se distinguant par son approche exhaustive et ses exigences claires qui favorisent la sécurité des pratiquants.
Die Norm EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 legt klare Sicherheitsanforderungen und Prüfmethoden für Eispickel, die im Bereich des Bergsteigens und Kletterns eingesetzt werden, fest. Der Anwendungsbereich dieser europäischen Norm ist von großer Bedeutung, da sie sowohl die Verwendung der Eispickel als auch deren Funktion als vergrabene Sicherung gegen Stürze umfasst. Ein entscheidender Vorteil dieser Norm liegt in der umfassenden Definition von Sicherheitsanforderungen, die sicherstellen, dass die Ausrüstung nicht nur den hohen Anforderungen des Bergsportes entspricht, sondern auch im Falle eines Sturzes einen effektiven Schutz bietet. Die in der Norm beschriebenen Prüfmethoden sind praxisnah und ermöglichen eine fundierte Bewertung der Sicherheit und Leistungsfähigkeit der Eispickel. Ein weiteres starkes Merkmal der EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 ist die Berücksichtigung aktueller Entwicklungen im Bergsport. Die regelmäßige Aktualisierung der Norm gewährleistet, dass die Sicherheitsstandards immer auf dem neuesten Stand sind und sowohl Hersteller als auch Anwender von Eispickeln von den neuesten wissenschaftlichen Erkenntnissen und Technologien profitieren. Die Relevanz dieser Norm erstreckt sich über die europäische Region hinaus; durch ihre weitreichende Akzeptanz trägt sie zur internationalen Harmonisierung von Sicherheitsstandards im Bergsport bei. Insgesamt stellt die EN 13089:2011+A3:2023 eine unverzichtbare Grundlage für alle, die im Bereich des Bergsteigens tätig sind und ist entscheidend für die Sicherheit und das Vertrauen in die eingesetzten Eispickel.
SIST EN 13089:2011+A3:2023は、登山用具に関する非常に重要な標準であり、特にアイスツールに関する安全要件と試験方法を示しています。この標準の範囲は、登山活動におけるアイスツールの使用や、墜落に対する保護のための埋設アンカーとしての使用をカバーしています。 この標準の強みは、多様な登山環境におけるアイスツールの安全性を確保するための明確なガイドラインを提供している点です。具体的には、試験方法が詳細に規定されていることで、アイスツールの性能を客観的に評価できる基準が整備されています。これにより、製品の品質が保証され、登山者が安全に使用できる道具を手に入れることができます。 また、この標準は、アイスツールの設計や製造に携わる企業にとっても非常に関連性が高いです。登山用具市場において、EUの基準に適合することで、信頼性のある製品を提供できるようになり、自社のブランド力を向上させることに寄与します。 総じて、SIST EN 13089:2011+A3:2023は、登山用アイスツールの安全要件や試験方法を明確に規定しているため、登山者や製造業者にとって重要な指針となっています。この標準の実施により、安全で信頼性の高い登山用具の利用が促進されることでしょう。
Questions, Comments and Discussion
Ask us and Technical Secretary will try to provide an answer. You can facilitate discussion about the standard in here.
Loading comments...