Textiles — Qualitative and quantitative analysis of some cellulose fibres (lyocell, cupro) and their blends — Part 3: Blend quantification using spectral analysis method

This document specifies quantitative testing methods of fibres that consist of cupro and lyocell by using infrared spectroscopy (IR) analysis and multivariate analysis. This testing method is applied only for cupro or lyocell or a mix of both. The other fibres, such as cotton, viscose, etc. are identified using the test method of ISO/TR 11827 and removed using the relevant part of the ISO 1833 series.

Textiles — Analyses qualitative et quantitative de certaines fibres cellulosiques (lyocell, cupro) et leurs mélanges — Partie 3: Quantification du mélange par une méthode d'analyse spectrale

General Information

Status
Published
Publication Date
26-Apr-2020
Current Stage
6060 - International Standard published
Start Date
27-Apr-2020
Due Date
02-Jun-2020
Completion Date
27-Apr-2020
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ISO 21915-3:2020 - Textiles -- Qualitative and quantitative analysis of some cellulose fibres (lyocell, cupro) and their blends
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INTERNATIONAL ISO
STANDARD 21915-3
First edition
2020-04
Textiles — Qualitative and
quantitative analysis of some cellulose
fibres (lyocell, cupro) and their
blends —
Part 3:
Blend quantification using spectral
analysis method
Textiles — Analyses qualitative et quantitative de certaines fibres
cellulosiques (lyocell, cupro) et leurs mélanges —
Partie 3: Quantification du mélange par une méthode d'analyse
spectrale
Reference number
ISO 21915-3:2020(E)
©
ISO 2020

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ISO 21915-3:2020(E)

COPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT
© ISO 2020
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may
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Published in Switzerland
ii © ISO 2020 – All rights reserved

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ISO 21915-3:2020(E)

Contents Page
Foreword .iv
Introduction .v
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Principle . 1
5 Apparatus and material . 1
6 Procedure. 2
6.1 Development of a calibration model . 2
6.1.1 Preparation of specimens . 2
6.1.2 Measurement of IR on the calibration specimens . 2
6.1.3 Development of the calibration model . 2
6.1.4 Optimization of the calibration model . 3
6.2 Measurement of test sample . 3
6.2.1 Preparation of specimen . 3
6.2.2 Calculation . 3
7 Test report . 3
Annex A (informative) Optimization of calibration model . 5
Annex B (informative) Interlaboratory test result . 8
Bibliography .11
© ISO 2020 – All rights reserved iii

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ISO 21915-3:2020(E)

Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical
committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International
organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.
ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of
electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www .iso .org/ directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www .iso .org/ patents).
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and
expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to the
World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), see www .iso .org/
iso/ foreword .html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles.
A list of all parts in the ISO 21915 series can be found on the ISO website.
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at www .iso .org/ members .html.
iv © ISO 2020 – All rights reserved

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ISO 21915-3:2020(E)

Introduction
The qualitative and quantitative determination of fibres is important for the distribution of textile
products. In many countries, it is legally obligatory for producers to attach information on the type of
fibres used and their mixing ratio to textile products.
Therefore, it is desirable that qualitative methods of all fibres used in textile products and quantitative
methods in the case where fibres are mixed (all combinations that can be assumed) exist as test
standards.
Cupro and lyocell described in this document are regenerated fibres made from plants and can be said
to be materials that contribute to a sustainable society in that raw materials are not derived from
petroleum.
However, cupro and lyocell are difficult to qualify. Because the characteristics of appearance, chemical
resistance, infrared spectroscopy (IR) spectrum, etc. are almost the same, the qualitative property
according to ISO/TR 11827 and the quantification by the ISO 1833 series cannot be performed in some
cases. That is, even if we know that unknown fibre is a cupro or lyocell, we cannot identify which one is.
Therefore, it is difficult to distinguish cupro or lyocell if the cupro or lyocell exists in the textile product
or the possibility that cupro and lyocell are mixed completely cannot be denied.
ISO 21915 is composed of three parts. ISO 21915-1 specifies the identification method of cupro and
lyocell by scanning electron microscope and infrared spectrum analysis. Those may be the time-
consuming methods to use the composition analysis. ISO 201915-2 and this document specify the
methods for the composition analysis. The methods used is determined by the instrument availability
and experience.
© ISO 2020 – All rights reserved v

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INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 21915-3:2020(E)
Textiles — Qualitative and quantitative analysis of some
cellulose fibres (lyocell, cupro) and their blends —
Part 3:
Blend quantification using spectral analysis method
1 Scope
This document specifies quantitative testing methods of fibres that consist of cupro and lyocell by using
infrared spectroscopy (IR) analysis and multivariate analysis.
This testing method is applied only for cupro or lyocell or a mix of both. The other fibres, such as cotton,
viscose, etc. are identified using the test method of ISO/TR 11827 and removed using the relevant part
of the ISO 1833 series.
2 Normative references
There are no normative references in this document.
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at http:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1
calibration model
result of calculation by using the partial least squares (PLS) regression between the IR absorption data
and the composition of cupro fibre in percentage
4 Principle
Prepare the calibration specimen with the composition of cupro or lyocell is known in advance and
set the objective variables as the composition of cupro in percentage. Measure the ATR-Infrared (IR)
spectrum at designated condition for the calibration specimens.
Obtain the calibration model by using the software for multivariate analysis to calculate the partial
least squares (PLS) regression by using the obtained IR data and the composition percentage of cupro.
Then, prepare the testing specimen the same way as the calibration specimen. Measure IR absorption
and obtain IR data. Input the data into the calibration model and obtain the composition percentage
result for cupro.
5 Apparatus and material
5.1 Infrared spectroscopy (IR) instrument, capable of performing measurement by attenuated total
reflection (ATR).
© ISO 2020 – All rights reserved 1

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