Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test methods

This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for dynamic ropes (single, half and twin ropes) in kernmantel construction for use in mountaineering including climbing.

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Dynamische Bergseile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Dieses Dokument legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für dynamische Bergseile (Einfach-,
Halb- und Zwillingsseile) in Kernmantelkonstruktion fest, die beim Bergsteigen einschließlich Klettern verwendet
werden.

Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordes dynamiques - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai

Ce document spécifie les exigences de sécurité ainsi que les méthodes d?essai pour les cordes dynamiques
gainées (cordes a simple, cordes a double et cordes jumelées) utilisées en alpinisme et en escalade.

Gorniška oprema – Dinamično obremenjene gorniške vrvi - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode

General Information

Status
Withdrawn
Publication Date
31-Dec-2004
Withdrawal Date
03-Mar-2016
Technical Committee
Current Stage
9900 - Withdrawal (Adopted Project)
Start Date
04-Mar-2016
Due Date
27-Mar-2016
Completion Date
04-Mar-2016

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SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN 892:2005
01-januar-2005
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SIST EN 892:1998
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Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and

test methods

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Dynamische Bergseile - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen

und Prüfverfahren

Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordes dynamiques - Exigences de sécurité et

méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 892:2004
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
SIST EN 892:2005 en,fr,de

2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
EUROPEAN STANDARD
EN 892
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
November 2004
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 892:1996
English version
Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes -
Safety requirements and test methods

Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordes Bergsteigerausrüstung - Dynamische Bergseile -

dynamiques - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

This European Standard was approved by CEN on 23 September 2004.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European

Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national

standards may be obtained on application to the Central Secretariat or to any CEN member.

This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation

under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Central Secretariat has the same status as the official

versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France,

Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia,

Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36 B-1050 Brussels

© 2004 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 892:2004: E

worldwide for CEN national Members.
---------------------- Page: 2 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
Contents

Foreword......................................................................................................................................................................3

Introduction .................................................................................................................................................................4

1 Scope ..............................................................................................................................................................5

2 Normative references ....................................................................................................................................5

3 Terms and definitions ...................................................................................................................................5

4 Safety requirements ......................................................................................................................................7

4.1 Construction...................................................................................................................................................7

4.2 Sheath slippage .............................................................................................................................................7

4.3 Static elongation............................................................................................................................................7

4.4 Dynamic elongation.......................................................................................................................................8

4.5 Peak force during fall arrest, number of drops ..........................................................................................8

5 Test methods..................................................................................................................................................8

5.1 Test samples ..................................................................................................................................................8

5.2 Conditioning and test conditions.................................................................................................................8

5.3 Construction, diameter, and mass per unit length.....................................................................................9

5.4 Sheath slippage .............................................................................................................................................9

5.5 Determination of static elongation.............................................................................................................13

5.6 Drop test for determination of peak force, dynamic elongation, and number of drops.......................13

6 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer......................................................................................18

7 Marking .........................................................................................................................................................19

Annex A (informative) List of standards for mountaineering equipment .........................................................25

Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential

Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC...............................................................................................26

---------------------- Page: 3 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
Foreword

This document (EN 892:2004) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and

other recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.

This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or

by endorsement, at the latest by May 2005, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by

May 2005.
This document supersedes EN 892:1996.

This European Standard has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the

European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.

For relationship with EU directives, see informative annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document.

According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following coun-

tries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Esto-

nia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta,

Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.

---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
Introduction

The text is based on UIAA-Standard B (Union Internationale des Associations d'Alpinisme), which has been pre-

pared with international participation.

This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see annex A.

---------------------- Page: 5 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
1 Scope

This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for dynamic ropes (single, half and twin ropes) in

kernmantel construction for use in mountaineering including climbing.
2 Normative references

The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references,

only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any

amendments) applies.

ISO 6487, Road vehicles — Measurement techniques in impact tests — Instrumentation.

3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
dynamic mountaineering rope

rope, which is capable, when used as a component in the safety chain, of arresting the free fall of a person en-

gaged in mountaineering or climbing with a limited peak force
3.2
single rope

dynamic mountaineering rope, capable of being used singly, as a link in the safety chain, to arrest a person's fall

3.3
half rope

dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs, as a link in the safety chain to arrest the

leader's fall (see Figure 1)
3.4
twin rope

dynamic mountaineering rope, which is capable, when used in pairs and parallel, as a link in the safety chain to

arrest a person's fall (see Figure 2)
---------------------- Page: 6 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
Figure 1 — Examples of use of half ropes
Figure 2 — Use of twin rope
---------------------- Page: 7 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
3.5
kernmantel rope
rope composed of a core and a sheath
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Construction

Dynamic ropes in accordance with this document shall be made in a kernmantel construction.

If the properties of the rope change along its length, for example: diameter, strength, markings, samples from each

section shall be submitted for testing. The information to be supplied shall all correspond to the lowest performance

section of the rope.
4.2 Sheath slippage

When tested in accordance with 5.4, the sheath slippage in a longitudinal direction relative to the core (in positive

or negative direction) shall not exceed 20 mm (see Figure 3).
Key
1 Sheath
2 Core
Positive sheath slippage ≤ 20 mm
Negative sheath slippage ≤ 20 mm
Figure 3 — Sheath slippage
4.3 Static elongation
When tested in accordance with 5.5, the static elongation shall not exceed:
 10 % in single ropes (single strand of rope);
 12 % in half ropes (single strand of rope);
 10 % in twin ropes (double strand of rope).
---------------------- Page: 8 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
4.4 Dynamic elongation

When tested in accordance with 5.6, the dynamic elongation shall not exceed 40 % during the first drop for each

test sample.
4.5 Peak force during fall arrest, number of drops
4.5.1 Peak force in the rope

When tested in accordance with 5.6, the peak force in the rope, during the first drop, for each test sample, shall not

exceed:
 12 kN in single ropes (single strand of rope);
 8 kN in half ropes (single strand of rope);
 12 kN in twin ropes (double strand of rope).
4.5.2 Number of drops

When tested in accordance with 5.6, each rope sample shall withstand at least 5, for twin ropes at least 12, con-

secutive drop tests without breaking.
5 Test methods
5.1 Test samples
A test sample with a length of:
 40 m for single and half ropes;
 80 m or 2 × 40 m for twin ropes
shall be available for the tests.
Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.3 on an unused test sample.

Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.4 on two unused test samples with a length of (2 250 ± 10) mm.

Carry out the test in accordance with 5.5 on two unused test samples with a length of at least 1 500 mm.

Carry out the tests in accordance with 5.6 on three unused test samples with a minimum length of 5 m for single

and half ropes, and 10 m for twin ropes, cut out of the available test sample.
5.2 Conditioning and test conditions

Dry the test samples for at least 24 h in an atmosphere of (50 ± 5) °C and less than 10 % relative humidity.

Subsequently, cool the samples in an atmosphere of (20 ± 2) °C and not more than 65 % relative humidity for 2 h.

Then condition these test samples in an atmosphere of (20 ± 2) °C and (65 ± 2) % relative humidity for at least

72 h. Then test these samples at a temperature of (23 ± 5) °C.
---------------------- Page: 9 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
5.3 Construction, diameter, and mass per unit length
5.3.1 Procedure
Clamp the test sample at one end.
Load the test sample without shock with a mass of:
 (10 ± 0,1) kg for single ropes;
 (6 ± 0,1) kg for half ropes;
 (5 ± 0,1) kg for twin ropes
at a distance of at least 1 200 mm from the clamp.

After applying the load for 60 s mark within the next 10 s a reference length of (1 000 ± 1) mm on the test sample.

The distance of the marking from the clamp or attachment for the test sample shall be at least 50 mm.

Within a further 3 min measure the diameter in two directions around the diameter starting at points 90° apart at

each of three levels approximately 100 mm apart. The length of the contact areas of the measuring instrument shall

be (50 ± 1) mm. The rope cross-sectional area shall not be subject to any compression during the measurement.

Then cut out the marked portion of the test sample and determine the mass to the nearest 0,1 g.

Check that the construction of the rope is a kernmantel construction.
5.3.2 Expression of results

Express the diameter as the arithmetic mean of the six measurements to the nearest 0,1 mm.

Express the mass per unit length in ktex or g/m to the nearest 1 g.
5.4 Sheath slippage
5.4.1 Principle

The rope is drawn through the apparatus illustrated in Figure 4, where the movement is restricted by radial forces.

The resulting frictional force on the sheath causes slippage of the sheath relative to the core. The extent of this

slippage is measured.
1) The mass can be introduced by a corresponding force.
---------------------- Page: 10 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
Dimensions in millimetres
Key
3 moving plates
Spacers
4 fixed plates
Figure 4 — Apparatus for testing the sheath slippage
5.4.2 Preparation of the test samples

Fuse one end of the sheath and core of each test sample together. Before cutting the other end of each test sam-

ple to size, apply a short length of sticky tape around the rope, where it is to be cut, at right angles to the axis of the

rope. The sticky tape shall be at least 12 mm wide, and the angle of wrap around the rope, Θ, shall be

150° ≤ Θ ≤ 180°. After affixing the sticky tape, cut the sample to a length of (2 250 ± 10) mm with a sharp knife,

within the width of the tape, at right angles to the axis of the rope (see Figure 5) such that the sticky tape remaining

on the test sample has a width of (8 ± 3) mm. The characteristics of the sticky tape and the method of application

should be such as to reduce the extent to which the cut end of the sheath unravels during the test, whilst not inter-

fering with the slippage taking place between the core and the sheath of the rope sample.

---------------------- Page: 11 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
Dimensions in millimetres
Key
1 Sticky tape at least 12 mm wide before cutting
Figure 5 — Sheath slippage test — Cutting the test sample to length
5.4.3 Apparatus

The apparatus shall consist of a frame made out of four steel plates each 10 mm thick, kept equal distances apart

by three spacers. These spacers shall have rectangular slots in which three inserted steel plates are able to slide in

a radial direction. The spacers shall be arranged in such a way as to allow each of the three inserted plates to slide

at an angle of 120° (see Figure 4).

Each of the seven plates shall have an opening with a diameter of 12 mm; their internal surfaces shall be

semitoroidal and have a radius of 5 mm. The polished surfaces of the semi-torus shall show

 an arithmetical mean deviation of the profile of R = 0,4 µm and
 a surface roughness of R ≤ 4 µm (see Figure 6).
max
Dimensions in millimetres
Figure 6 — Section through one of the plates

The moving plates shall have a locked position in which the openings in the fixed plates and the openings in the

moving plates all lie in line along a central axis. When not in their locked position each of the moving plates shall

apply a radial force of (50 ± 0,5) N to the test sample in the direction in which the plate moves. The test apparatus

shall be rigidly mounted with its axis horizontal. Means shall be provided to support, on a smooth surface, the test

sample in a horizontal position in line with the axis of the test apparatus, in both directions of travel.

---------------------- Page: 12 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
5.4.4 Procedure

5.4.4.1 At the start of the test the moving plates shall be in their locked position.

5.4.4.2 Introduce the fused end of the test sample into the apparatus and pull to a length of (200 ± 10) mm

through the test apparatus (see Figure 7). Ensure that the remainder of the test sample is not subjected to any load

and lies in a horizontal position in a straight line.
Dimensions in millimetres
Key
Sliding plates
Figure 7 — Layout of the test sample before and after the sheath slippage test

5.4.4.3 Release the moving plates from their locked position and apply a force of (50 ± 0,5) N to the test

sample via each of the three moving plates and pull the test sample through the apparatus at a rate of

(0,5 ± 0,2) m/s for a distance of (1 930 ± 10) mm.

5.4.4.4 Remove the loads from the moving plates and return them to their locked position. Carefully get hold of

the short end of the test sample and slowly and gently pull it back through the test apparatus to its initial position.

5.4.4.5 Repeat the procedure described in 5.4.4.3 and 5.4.4.4 three times. Then carry out the procedure

described in 5.4.4.3 once more. Whilst the test sample is still in the test apparatus, and with the loads still applied

to the moving plates, measure the relative slippage of the sheath along the core at the open end of the test sample

(see Figure 3).
5.4.5 Expression of results
Express the value for each test sample to the nearest millimetre.
---------------------- Page: 13 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
5.5 Determination of static elongation
5.5.1 Procedure
Carry out the test on a:
 single strand of rope for single ropes;
 single strand of rope for half ropes;
 double strand of rope for twin ropes.
+ 100

Clamp the test samples such that the free length between the clamps is (1 500 ) mm.

− 0
+ 5

Load the test sample without shock within (10 ) s with a mass of (80 ± 0,1) kg and maintain this load for

− 0
(3 ± 0,5) min.

Remove the load from the test sample and allow it to remain at rest for (10 ± 0,5) min.

+ 5
Load the test sample without shock within (10 ) s with a mass of (5 ± 0,1) kg.
− 0

After applying the load for 60 s, mark within the next 10 s a reference length of (1 000 ± 1) mm.

+ 5

Increase the load to (80 ± 0,1) kg without shock, within (10 ) s and maintain this load for (60 ± 5) s.

− 0
+ 5

Measure the new distance l between the markings on the stressed test sample within the next (10 ) s.

− 0
5.5.2 Expression of results

Express the elongation as a percentage of the unloaded length: that is (l – 1 000)/10. Express the results to the

nearest 0,1 % for each test sample.

5.6 Drop test for determination of peak force, dynamic elongation, and number of drops

5.6.1 Test conditions

Carry out the first drop test within 10 min of the respective test sample's removal from the conditioning atmosphere

(see 5.2).
5.6.2 Drop test apparatus
5.6.2.1 General

The drop test apparatus shall be set up in accordance with Figure 8, Figures 10, 11, 12 and 13, and shall consist

essentially of a bollard and clamp, orifice plate, falling mass and guidance rails, means for measuring the peak

force in the rope, and means for measuring the peak extension of the rope. In addition there shall be a means for

timing the descent of the mass to check that the guidance system is not interfering with the free fall of the mass.

The apparatus shall be sufficiently precise and rigid as to achieve the required accuracy and reproducibility of the

results.
---------------------- Page: 14 ----------------------
EN 892:2004 (E)
5.6.2.2 Bollard and clamp

The bollard shall consist of a steel bar with a diameter of (30 ± 0,1) mm and a surface roughness as follows:

 arithmetic mean deviation of the profile of R ≤ 0,8 µm;
 surface roughness R ≤ 6,3 µm.
max
The bar shall be f
...

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