Footwear - Test methods for the assessment of ecological criteria

This document establishes the test methods to assess the ecological criteria of the footwear manufacturing process.
Note   This document has been designed to define the test methods necessary to issue the footwear Ecolabel (JOCE  19th March 2002). However this standard covers more than this field.
This document applies to any kind of footwear except those containing electrical or electronical components.
The chemical analysis of the metallic components is outside of the scope of this document.

Schuhe - Prüfverfahren zur Beurteilung ökologischer Kriterien

Chaussure - Méthodes d'essai pour l'évaluation de criteres écologiques

Obutev - Preskusne metode za ocenjevanje ekoloških meril

General Information

Status
Withdrawn
Publication Date
31-Mar-2005
Withdrawal Date
29-Aug-2012
Current Stage
9900 - Withdrawal (Adopted Project)
Start Date
29-Aug-2012
Due Date
21-Sep-2012
Completion Date
30-Aug-2012

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SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN 14602:2005
01-april-2005
Obutev - Preskusne metode za ocenjevanje ekoloških meril
Footwear - Test methods for the assessment of ecological criteria
Schuhe - Prüfverfahren zur Beurteilung ökologischer Kriterien
Chaussure - Méthodes d'essai pour l'évaluation de criteres écologiques
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 14602:2004
ICS:
61.060 Obuvala Footwear
SIST EN 14602:2005 en
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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SIST EN 14602:2005

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SIST EN 14602:2005
EUROPEAN STANDARD
EN 14602
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
November 2004
ICS 61.060

English version
Footwear - Test methods for the assessment of ecological
criteria
Chaussure - Méthodes d'essai pour l'évaluation de critères Schuhe - Prüfverfahren zur Beurteilung ökologischer
écologiques Kriterien
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 10 September 2004.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European
Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national
standards may be obtained on application to the Central Secretariat or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation
under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Central Secretariat has the same status as the official
versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France,
Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia,
Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36  B-1050 Brussels
© 2004 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 14602:2004: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

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SIST EN 14602:2005
EN 14602:2004 (E)
Contents
Page
Foreword.3
1 Scope .4
2 Normative references .4
3 Terms and definitions.5
4 Preparation of samples .6
4.1 General.6
4.3 Preparation for tests on whole footwear.7
4.3.1 Grinding .7
4.3.2 Constitution of the ground sample .8
5 Test methods.8
5.1 Determination of Cr (VI).8
5.2 Determination of total heavy metals content.9
5.2.1 General.9
5.2.2 Test pieces digestion .9
5.2.3 Determination of heavy metals content.10
5.2.4 Calculation and expression of results.11
5.2.5 Test report .11
5.3 Determination of partially hydrolysable formaldehyde content .11
5.4 Determination of pentachlorophenol (PCP) concentration.11
5.5 Determination of azo-dyes.12
5.6 Determination of nitrosamines.13
5.7 Determination of Chloroalcanes .13
5.8 Determination of the VOC emissions .13
5.8.1 Procedure .13
5.8.2 Test report .14
5.9 Determination of phthalates in PVC.14
5.10 Determination of cadmium in polymeric materials .14
5.11 Determination of organotin compound in footwear material.14
5.12 Determination of the electrical energy consumption.15
5.12.1 Apparatus and procedure .15
5.12.2 Calculation and expression of results.15
5.12.3 Test report .15
5.13 Parameters contributing to durability.15
Bibliography .16
2

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SIST EN 14602:2005
EN 14602:2004 (E)
Foreword
This document (EN 14602:2004) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 309 "Footwear", the
secretariat of which is held by AENOR.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or
by endorsement, at the latest by May 2005, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by
May 2005.
According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following
countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark,
Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta,
Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
3

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SIST EN 14602:2005
EN 14602:2004 (E)
1 Scope
This document establishes the test methods to assess the ecological criteria of the footwear manufacturing process.
th
NOTE This document has been designed to define the test methods necessary to issue the footwear Ecolabel (JOCE 19
March 2002). However this standard covers more than this field.
This document applies to any kind of footwear except those containing electrical or electronical components.
The chemical analysis of the metallic components is outside of the scope of this document.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated references,
only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any
amendments) applies.

EN 12770, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Abrasion resistance.
EN 12771, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Tear strength.
EN 12868, Child use and care articles - Methods for determining the release of N-Nitrosamines and N-Nitrosatable
substances from elastomer or rubber teats and soothers
EN 13512, Footwear — Test methods for uppers and lining — Flex resistance.
EN 13516, Footwear — Test methods for uppers, lining and insocks — Colour fastness to rubbing.
EN 13518, Footwear — Test methods for uppers — Water resistance.
EN 13571, Footwear — Test methods for uppers, lining and insocks — Tear strength.
EN 14362-1, Textiles — Methods for the determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colorants —
Part 1: Detection of the use of certain azo colorants accessible without extraction.
EN 14362-2, Textiles — Methods for the determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colorants —
Part 2: Detection of the use of certain azo colorants accessible by extracting the fibres.
CEN/TS 14494, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of the content of pentachlorophenol in leather.
CEN/TS 14495, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of chromium VI content
EN ISO 868, Plastics and ebonite - Determination of indentation hardness by means of a durometer (Shore
hardness) (ISO 868:2003)
EN ISO 5404, Leather — Physical and mechanical tests — Determination of the water resistance of heavy leathers
(ISO 5404:2002).
EN ISO 11885, Water quality — Determination of 33 elements by inductively coupled plasma atomic emission
spectroscopy (ISO 11885:1996).
EN ISO 14184-1, Textiles — Determination of formaldehyde — Part 1: Free and hydrolysed formaldehyde (water
extraction method) (ISO 14184-1:1998).
EN ISO 14184-2, Textiles — Determination of formaldehyde — Part 2: Released formaldehyde (vapour absorption
method) (ISO 14184-2:1998).
4

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SIST EN 14602:2005
EN 14602:2004 (E)
EN ISO 17707, Footwear — Test methods for outsoles — Flex resistance (ISO 17707:2004).
EN ISO 17708, Footwear — Test methods for whole shoe —Sole adhesion (ISO 17708:2003).
CEN ISO/TS 17226, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of formaldehyde contents (ISO/TS 17226:2003).
CEN ISO/TS 17234, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of certain azo colourants in dyed leathers (ISO/TS
17234:2003).
ISO 7176-4, Wheelchairs — Part 4: Energy consumption of electric wheelchairs and scooters for determination of
theoretical distance range.
ISO 8288, Water quality — Determination of cobalt, nickel, copper, zinc, cadmium and lead — Flame atomic
absorption spectrometric methods.
ISO 18856  Water quality -- Determination of selected phthalates using gas chromatography/mass spectrometry
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
volatile organic compound (VOC)
organic compound having at 293,15 K a vapour pressure of 0,01 KPa or more, or having a corresponding volatility
under the particular conditions of use
3.2
volatile organic compounds emissions (VOC emissions)
amount of volatile organic compounds emitted to the atmosphere to produce a pair of shoes
3.3
test period, Tp
consecutive test period during which:
- the production of the shoe or a group of shoes being analysed is well known
- the consumption of chemicals preparations is well known
3.4
pentachlorophenol (PCP)
pentachlorophenol (CAS 87-86-5), the sodium salt of pentachlorophenol (CAS 131-52-2) and other
pentachlorophenol salts and derivatives
3.5
process electric consumption (PEC)
electricity used only by the process equipment used to manufacture the footwear
5

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SIST EN 14602:2005
EN 14602:2004 (E)
4 Preparation of samples
4.1 General
This standard describes different test methods either on footwear material or on the complete footwear or on the
manufacturing of footwear. The different tests to perform are described in table 1.
The complete item of footwear is the sample. Several samples will be needed according to Table 1. No analysis is
requested for empty box (packaging).
Table 1: Tests to perform
Complete Footwear
Materials
footwear manufacturing
Test
Tests to perform
Leather and Textile and
clause
2)
Polymeric
leather based fibre based Rubber PVC
3)
1)
material
materials material
Chromium VI 5.1 X
Cadmium 5.10   X
Heavy metals
5.2   X
(Cd-As-Pb)

Formaldehyde 5.3 X X
PCP and TCP 5.4 X X
Azo dyes 5.5 X X
Nitrosamines 5.6  X
Chloroalcanes 5.7    X
VOC 5.8    X
Phthalates 5.9  X
Organotins
5.11 X X X X
compounds
Energy comsuption 5.12    X
Durability
5.13 See the corresponding standards
parameters
1)
If the leather is tanned without Cr, then Cr (VI) analysis is not required
2)
Coated fabric PVC has to fulfil requirement of PVC and textile
3)
Coated fabric PU has to fulfil requirement of polymeric material and textile

4.2 Preparation for tests on materials
The samples are taken from either the footwear or raw materials.
6

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SIST EN 14602:2005
EN 14602:2004 (E)
4.3 Preparation for tests on whole footwear
Weigh the footwear, M , and then remove all the metallic pieces from the footwear.
1
Weigh the metallic parts, M , and determine the mass of the non metallic parts of the footwear, M , by the formula:
m 0
M =M −M   (1)
0 1 m
Dismantle the footwear; separate the hard material, which is that with hardness shore D according to EN ISO 868
greater than 50° (e.g. PVC, rubber, leather sole), from the soft material (e.g. textile, leather). Weigh the hard material,
M and the soft material, M :
h s
M ≈M +M
0 h s
Determine the percentage of hard (H%) and soft (S%) material by the formulas:
M
h
   (2)
H % =
M +M
h s
M
s
   (3)
S% =
M +M
h s
Hard and soft material will be ground separately.
4.3.1 Grinding
4.3.1.1 Soft material grinding
Separate leather and textile pieces for the specific analyses mentioned in clause 5. In cases where the footwear is
made up of several types of leather or textile, then all leather will be jointly tested, and all textile will also be jointly
tested.
Cut the soft material into pieces of side length between 30 mm and 50 mm, using the appropriate means (e.g. an
electric saw).
Grind the pieces using the appropriate means (e.g. a leather grinder as described in EN ISO 4044) until the
material passes through a sieve of 4 mm diameter mesh. The sample must be ground in small batches to allow
rapid grinding and to avoid increasing the temperature of the sample excessively.
4.3.1.2 Hard material grinding
4.3.1.2.1 Common hard soling material (e.g. leather, PVC)
Cut the hard material into pieces of side length between 20 mm and 40 mm, using the appropriate means (e.g. an
electric saw).
Grind the pieces using the appropriate means (e.g. a leather grinder as described in EN ISO 4044). If necessary,
after each grinding operation, the mill should be left to cool down. The sample must be ground in small batches to
allow rapid grinding and to avoid increasing the temperature of the sample excessively:
- carry out an initial short (5 min ± 1 min) grinding without use of any size restricting device, i.e. mesh. Several
successive grindings can be carried out to complete the grinding of the whole sample;
- carry out a second grinding also for a short (5 min ± 1 min) time to reduce the material to a size which will pass
through a sieve of 4 mm diameter mesh. Several successive grindings can be carried out to complete the
grinding of the whole sample.
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SIST EN 14602:2005
EN 14602:2004 (E)
4.3.1.2.2 Difficult hard soling material (e.g. rubber)
Cut the soling material into pieces of side length between 1 cm and 3 cm, using the appropriate means (e.g.
electric saw). This procedure is also applicable for heels in a very hard material (for which the size of the cut piece
can be smaller).
For soling material containing rubber, cool the samples in a freezer at (-20 ± 5) °C for 16 h or more.
NOTE 1 Liquid nitrogen could be used to cool difficult samples (for example, rubber).
Using an appropriate
...

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