ISO/TC 38/WG 22 - Composition and chemical testing

This document specifies a method for determining the amount of free formaldehyde and formaldehyde extracted partly through hydrolysis by means of an extraction method. The method can be applied for the testing of textile fibres, fabrics or yarns. NOTE This method, based on liquid chromatography (LC), is selective and not sensitive to coloured extracts and is intended to be used for precise quantification of formaldehyde.

This document specifies a method of determining phthalates in textiles with gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC-MS). This document is applicable to textile products where there is a risk of the presence of some phthalates.

This document specifies a method for determining the amount of certain benzotriazole compounds (UV-320, UV-327, UV-328, UV-350) in textiles by using liquid chromatography-tandem mass spectrometry (LC-MS/MS) or liquid chromatography-diode array detector (LC-DAD) or gas chromatography with mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The method is applicable to all kinds of textile materials (fibres and fabrics).

This document defines the generic names used to designate the different categories of man-made fibres, based on a main polymer, currently manufactured on an industrial scale for textile and other purposes, together with the distinguishing attributes that characterize them. The term “man-made fibres” has been adopted for those fibres obtained by a manufacturing process, as distinct from materials which occur naturally in fibrous form. This document gives recommendations of rules for the creation of the generic name (see Annex A). NOTE These rules have been introduced in the sixth edition of ISO 2076, and thus, they are not applicable to the existing generic names of the previous editions.

This document specifies a chromatographic method to determine the amount of short-chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCPs: C10-C13) and middle-chain chlorinated paraffins (MCCPs: C14-C17) in textile articles, especially in polymer of the coated fabrics, prints made of polymer and buttons made of polymer (e.g. polyvinylchloride) by means of solvent extraction and gas chromatography negative ion chemical ionization mass spectrometry (GC-NCI-MS).

This document specifies a method, using formic acid and zinc chloride, to determine the mass percentage of viscose or certain types of cupro or modal or lyocell, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — viscose or certain types of the cupro or modal or lyocell fibres with — flax fibres. This document is not applicable to mixtures in which the flax fibre has suffered extensive chemical degradation, nor when the viscose, cupro, modal or lyocell fibre is rendered incompletely soluble by the presence of certain permanent finishes or reactive dyes that cannot be removed completely.

This document specifies a method, using acetone, to determine the mass percentage of acetate, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — acetate with — wool, animal hair, silk, protein, cotton (scoured, kiered, or bleached), flax (or linen), hemp, jute, abaca, alfa, coir, broom, ramie, sisal, cupro, viscose, modal, polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, acrylic, elastolefin, elastomultiester, melamine, polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent, polyacrylate and glass fibres. It is not applicable to mixtures containing modacrylic fibres, certain chlorofibres, nor to mixtures containing acetate fibres that have been deacetylated on the surface.

This document specifies a method for determination of triclosan residues in textiles by high performance liquid chromatography — tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS). This method is applicable to all kinds of textile products.

This document specifies a method using hot formic acid to determine the mass percentage of melamine fibres after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of: — melamine fibres with — cotton, polypropylene or aramid fibres.

This document specifies a method, using dimethylformamide, to determine the mass percentage of acrylic, modacrylic, chlorofibre or elastane, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — acrylic, certain modacrylics, certain chlorofibres, certain elastane fibres with — wool, animal hair, silk, cotton, viscose, cupro, modal, lyocell, polyamide, polyester, polypropylene, elastomultiester, elastolefin, melamine, polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent, polyacrylate or glass fibres. It is not applicable to animal hair, wool and silk dyed with chromium based mordant dyes. NOTE Dyestuff identification is described in ISO 16373-1.

This document specifies a method, using sulfuric acid, to determine the mass percentage of silk, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — silk with — wool or other animal hair.

This document specifies a test method for the qualification and quantification of organotin compounds. This test method is applicable to all types of materials of textile products. NOTE CEN/TR 16741 defines which materials are applicable to this determination.

This document specifies a method using trichloroacetic acid and chloroform to determine the mass percentage of polyester fibres after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — polyester fibres with — aramid fibres (except polyamide imide), flame retardant (FR) viscose and polyacrylate.

This document specifies a common method for the quantitative chemical analysis of various mixtures of fibres. This method and the methods described in the other parts of ISO 1833 are applicable, in general, to fibres in any textile form. Where certain textile forms are excepted, these are listed in the scope of the appropriate part.

This document specifies methods of quantitative analysis of various ternary mixtures of fibres. The field of application of each method for analysing mixtures, specified in the parts of ISO 1833, indicates the fibres to which the method is applicable. This document is applicable to mixtures of fibres with more than three components provided that the combination of test methods leads back to simple cases of fibre mixtures. Table B.1 illustrates the typical ternary mixtures and their applied corresponding parts of the ISO 1833 series.

This document specifies a qualitative and quantitative procedure to determine the composition of animal hair fibre blends (made of wool, cashmere, yak, alpaca, camel or angora) by LC-MS without protein reduction. NOTE 1 The composition of non-animal hair fibres can be measured by ISO 1833 (all parts). Both results are combined to determine the total fibre composition. The method is based on a preliminary identification, by light microscopy, of all fibres in the blend on the basis of their morphology, according to ISO/TR 11827[4]. It is not applicable if fibres of the same animal species (such as blends of cashmere and mohair) are present. NOTE 2 In this case, the quantitative analysis is performed using microscopical analysis [for example, ISO 17751 (all parts)].

This document specifies a test method for the qualification and quantification of organotin compounds. This test method is applicable to all types of materials of textile products. NOTE CEN/TR 16741 defines which materials are applicable to this determination.

This document specifies a method, using sulfuric acid, to determine the mass percentage of polyamide, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of binary mixtures of — polyamide with —polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent.

This document specifies the quantitative analysis of cupro and lyocell mixtures using the microscopical analysis as described in ISO 20705 after re-dyeing cupro and lyocell mixtures. This testing method is applied only for cupro and lyocell, or those blends. If other fibres are present, those are identified using the test method of ISO/TR 11827 and removed using the relevant parts of the ISO 1833 series. This method is not applicable for the fibre surface is damaged during the process (e.g. chemically or physically).

This document specifies quantitative testing methods of fibres that consist of cupro and lyocell by using infrared spectroscopy (IR) analysis and multivariate analysis. This testing method is applied only for cupro or lyocell or a mix of both. The other fibres, such as cotton, viscose, etc. are identified using the test method of ISO/TR 11827 and removed using the relevant part of the ISO 1833 series.

This document specifies the qualitative analysis for cupro and lyocell using the two methods separately — scanning electron microscope (SEM) method based on the application of ISO 20705, and — spectral analysis method. These testing methods are applied only for cupro and lyocell, or those blends. If other fibres are present, those are identified using the test method of ISO/TR 11827 and removed using the relevant part of the ISO 1833 series. This method is not applicable for the fibre surface that is damaged during the process (e.g. chemically or physically).

This document specifies a method for determining the pH of the aqueous extract of textiles. The method is applicable to textiles in any form (e.g. fibres, yarns, fabrics).

This document specifies common methods for the quantitative microscopical analysis of various mixtures of fibres. The methods described are based on the use of a light microscope (LM) or a scanning electronic microscope (SEM), on the measurements of the fibre apparent diameter (preparation of longitudinal views) or on the measurements of fibre section area (preparation of cross views), depending on the section shape of the fibres. NOTE 1 When the section shape is circular or almost circular, the longitudinal views are appropriate. For the other section shapes, the cross views are adequate and Annex A lists conventional density of fibres to be used for the calculation of the mass percentage of the components. Pictures of section shapes of fibres can be found in ISO/TR 11827. NOTE 2 Annex B presents statistical data on fibre diameter measurements (longitudinal view) and on fibre area measurements (cross view). The given procedures apply to fibres in any textile form when mixtures of fibres cannot be separated by manual methods or by chemical methods. Examples of mixtures of fibres are cashmere and wool, cotton and flax, flax and hemp.

This document specifies methods for the identification of some bast fibres (flax, hemp, ramie) using both light microscopy (LM) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM). This document is also applicable to blends of these bast fibres and products made from them.

This document specifies a method, by determining the nitrogen content, to calculate the proportion of each component, after the removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — jute with — animal fibres. The animal-fibre component can consist solely of hair or wool, or of any mixtures of the two. This document is not applicable to products in which dyestuffs or finishes contain nitrogen. NOTE Because this method differs in principle from the general method based on selective solubility set out in ISO 1833-1, it is given in a form that is complete in itself.

This document specifies a method, using carbon disulfide/acetone, to determine the mass percentage of chlorofibre, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — certain chlorofibres, with — wool, animal hair, silk, cotton, viscose, cupro, modal, lyocell, polyamide, polyester, elastomultiester, acrylic, melamine, polypropylene, polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent, polyacrylate and glass fibres. It is also possible to analyse mixtures containing chlorofibres by using the test methods described in ISO 1833-17 or ISO 1833-21.

This document specifies a method, using concentrated sulfuric acid, to determine the mass percentage of chlorofibres and certain other fibres, after removal of non-fibrous material, in textiles made of mixtures of — cotton, viscose, cupro, modal, lyocell, acetate, triacetate, polyamide, polyester, elastomultiester, certain acrylic and certain modacrylic fibres with — chlorofibres (based on homopolymers of vinyl chloride), polypropylene, elastolefin, melamine and polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent. The modacrylics concerned are those which give a clear solution when immersed in concentrated sulfuric acid. This method can be used, particularly in place of the methods described in ISO 1833-12 and ISO 1833-13, in all cases where a preliminary test shows that the chlorofibres do not dissolve completely either in dimethylformamide or in the azeotropic mixture of carbon disulfide and acetone.

This document specifies a method, using benzyl alcohol, to determine the mass percentage of acetate, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — acetate with — triacetate, polypropylene, elastolefin, melamine, polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent and polyacrylate fibres.

This document specifies a method, using glacial acetic acid, to determine the mass percentage of acetate, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — acetate with — certain chlorofibres or after-chlorinated chlorofibres. It is also possible to analyse mixtures containing acetate by using the test methods described in ISO 1833-3 or ISO 1833-9.

This document specifies a method, using diluted acetic acid, to determine the mass percentage of chitosan fibres, after elimination of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of: — chitosan fibre with — certain other fibres. This method is applicable to fibre mixtures of chitosan fibre with cellulose fibres (cotton, linen, ramie, viscose, modal, lyocell), protein fibres (wool, cashmere, silk), or synthetic fibres (polyester, polyamide, acrylic).

This document specifies a method, using xylene, to determine the mass percentage of polypropylene, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — polypropylene fibres with — wool, animal hair, silk, cotton, viscose, cupro, modal, lyocell, acetate, triacetate, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, glass fibres, elastomultiester, melamine and polyacrylate.

This document specifies a method, using cyclohexanone, to determine the mass percentage of chlorofibre, modacrylic, elastane, acetate and triacetate, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — acetate, triacetate, chlorofibre, certain modacrylics, certain elastanes with — wool, animal hair, silk, cotton, cupro, modal, viscose, lyocell, polyamide, acrylic, melamine, polyacrylate and glass fibres. It is also possible to analyse mixtures containing chlorofibres by using the test methods described in ISO 1833-13 or ISO 1833-17.

This document specifies a method, using dichloromethane, to determine the mass percentage of triacetate or polylactide, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — triacetate or polylactide with — wool or other animal hair, silk, protein, cotton, viscose, cupro, modal,lyocell, polyamide, polyester, acrylic, elastomultiester, polypropylene, elastolefin, melamine, polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent,polyacrylate and glass fibres. Triacetate fibres which have been partially hydrolysed (i.e. saponification) cease to be completely soluble in the reagent. In such cases, this method is not applicable.

This document specifies the method for the determination of extractable alkylphenols (AP) without derivatization step in textile and textile products.

This document specifies the normal phase liquid chromatography (NPLC) separation method for the qualitative and quantitative analysis of extractable alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) in textiles and textile products. This method provides several instrument options for the determination of alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEO) such as normal phase liquid chromatograph with mass spectrometer (NPLC/MS), normal phase liquid chromatograph with fluorescence detector (NPLC/FLD), normal phase liquid chromatograph with charged aerosol detector (NPLC/CAD) and normal phase liquid chromatograph with evaporative light scattering detector (NPLC/ELSD).

This document specifies a method using dimethylacetamide to determine the mass percentage of elastane, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of: — certain elastane fibres with — cotton, viscose, cupro, modal, lyocell, polyamide, polyester or wool fibres. This method is not applicable when acrylic fibres are present. It is also possible to analyse mixtures containing certain elastane fibres by using the test methods described in ISO 1833-12 or ISO 1833-21.

This document specifies a method, using a mixture of formic acid and zinc chloride, to determine the mass percentage of viscose, certain types of cupro, modal or lyocell, after removal of nonfibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — viscose, certain types of cupro, modal or lyocell, with — cotton. This document has been initially specifically established for mixtures of viscose, certain types of cupro, modal or lyocell with cotton, it is also applicable to mixtures with polypropylene, elastolefin and melamine. IMPORTANT — If a cupro or modal or lyocell fibre is found to be present, a preliminary test is carried out to see whether it is soluble in the reagent. The method is not applicable to mixtures in which the cotton has suffered extensive chemical degradation. It is not applicable when the viscose, cupro, modal or lyocell fibre is rendered incompletely soluble by the presence of certain permanent finishes or reactive dyes that cannot be removed completely.

This document specifies a method, using aluminium sulfate, to determine the mass percentage of cellulose fibres, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of — cellulose fibres (natural or regenerated) with — polyester, polyamide, acrylic, wool and elastane fibres.

This document specifies a qualitative and quantitative procedure to determine the composition of animal hair fibre blends by MALDI-TOF MS. The composition of non-animal hair fibres can be measured by methods described in the ISO 1833 series. Both results are then combined to determine the whole composition of fibres. The method is based on a preliminary identification, by light microscopy, of all fibres in a blend on the basis of their morphology, according to ISO/TR 11827. In case fibres of the same animal species are present (e.g. blends of cashmere and mohair), the method is not applicable and the quantitative analysis can be performed using microscopical analysis (e.g. as described in ISO 17751 series).

ISO 20418-1:2018 specifies a qualitative and quantitative testing method to determine the content of wool, cashmere, yak fibres and their blends in textiles by microscope preliminary screening, protein extraction, enzymatic digestion and specific peptides detection using a liquid chromatography-mass spectrometer equipped with electrospray ionization source (LCI-ESI-MC). This method can be applied to relevant textile products at each process stage (i.e. from raw material to garment) with a homogeneous distribution of the components. It can be applied to different types of textile materials (e.g. staples, tops, yarns and fabrics) that contain wool, cashmere or yak fibres and their blends. The method is based on a preliminary identification of all fibres in the blend on the basis of their morphology, by light microscopy. The proteins are then extracted by a thiourea/urea/dithiothreitol (DTT) solution. An enzymatic digestion by trypsin of the protein extracted from the fibres is carried out. Analysis of the specific markers is performed by LC-MS and the percent composition is calculated. This method is applicable to samples containing other kinds of fibres than wool, cashmere and yak, by combining its results with the results obtained using the ISO 1833 series and/or the ISO 17751 series. ISO 20418-1:2018 does not apply if fibres of the same animal species are present (e.g. blends of cashmere and mohair); in this case, the quantitative analysis can be performed using microscopic analysis (e.g. ISO 17751 series).

ISO/TR 17881-3:2018 describes a method for determining short-chain chlorinated paraffins (C10-C13) (SCCPs) in textiles using carbon skeleton reaction gas chromatography with a flame ionization detector (GC-FID). ISO/TR 17881-3:2018 is applicable to all kinds of textile products.

ISO 1833-7:2017 specifies a method, using formic acid, to determine the mass percentage of polyamide fibre, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of - polyamide with - cotton, viscose, cupro, modal, lyocell, polyester, polypropylene, chlorofibre, acrylic, glass fibre, elastomultiester, elastolefin and melamine, or - wool (if the wool content is less than or equal to 25 %), or animal hair fibres. ISO 1833-7:2017 does not apply when the wool content exceeds 25 %; ISO 1833-4 applies.

ISO 1833-11:2017 specifies a method, using sulfuric acid, to determine the mass percentage of cellulose fibres, after removal of non-fibrous matter, in textiles made of mixtures of - natural and man-made cellulose fibres, such as cotton, flax, hemp, ramie, viscose, cupro, modal, lyocell with - polyester, polypropylene, elastomultiester, elastolefin and polypropylene/polyamide bicomponent.

ISO 14362-1:2017 describes a method to detect the use of certain azo colorants that may not be used in the manufacture or treatment of certain commodities made of textile fibres and that are accessible to reducing agent with and without extraction. Azo colorants accessible to reducing agent without extraction are those used to colour with pigments or to dye - cellulosic fibres (e.g. cotton, viscose), - protein fibres (e.g. wool, silk), and - synthetic fibres (e.g. polyamide, acrylic). Azo colorants accessible with extraction are those used to dye man-made fibres with disperse dyes. The following man-made fibres can be dyed with disperse dyes: polyester, polyamide, acetate, triacetate, acrylic and chlorofibre. The method is relevant for all coloured textiles, e.g. dyed, printed and coated textiles.

Azo colorants that are able to form 4-aminoazobenzene, generate under the conditions of ISO 14362-1, the amines aniline and 1,4-phenylenediamine. The presence of these 4-aminoazobenzene colorants cannot be reliably ascertained without additional information (e.g. the chemical structure of the colorant used) or without a special procedure. ISO 14362-3:2017 is supplementary to ISO 14362-1 and describes a special procedure to detect the use, in commodities, of certain azo colorants, which may release 4-aminoazobenzene, and that are - accessible to reducing agent without extraction, particularly concerning textiles made of cellulose and protein fibres (e.g. cotton, viscose, wool, silk), and - accessible by extracting the fibres (e.g. polyester or imitation leather). For certain fibre blends, in 9.3 and 9.4 (with and without extraction) may need to be applied. The procedure also detects 4-aminoazobenzene (Solvent Yellow 1), which is already available as free amine in commodities without reducing pre-treatment. The use of certain azo colorants, which may release, by reductive cleavage of their azo group(s), one or more of the other aromatic amines listed in the Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 of the European Parliament and of the Council on the Registration, Evaluation, Authorization and Restriction of Chemicals (REACH) as regards Annex XVII, except 4-aminoazobenzene, cannot be determined quantitatively with this method.

ISO 18254-1:2016 describes analyses that are used to detect extractable alkylphenol ethoxylates (nonylphenol ethoxylates and octylphenol ethoxylates) in textile products. This document provides a method that uses Liquid Chromatograph (LC) with Mass Spectrometry (MS) system to detect and quantify alkylphenol ethoxylates of defined ethoxylate chain length.

ISO 17881-1:2016 specifies a test method for determining some brominated flame retardants in textiles by gas chromatography ? mass spectrometry (GC-MS). The method is applicable to all kinds of textile products.

ISO 17881-2:2016 specifies a test method for determining some phosphorous flame retardants in textiles by high performance liquid chromatography ? tandem mass spectrometry (HPLC-MS/MS). The method is applicable to all kinds of textile products. NOTE For tris (1-aziridinyl) phosphineoxide (TEPA), only unbonded TEPA is extractable.

ISO 16373-1:2015 gives the definition of the colourant classes and the relationship to textile fibres. It describes some procedures to identify qualitatively the colourant class used in textile material.

ISO 18074:2015 specifies a testing method for DNA analysis of some animal fibres to identify cashmere, wool, yak, and their blends by using extraction, amplification by the polymerase chain reaction (PCR) method and DNA detection processes. ISO 18084:2015 is applicable to cashmere, yak, and wool and their blends as a qualitative method.