FprEN 17520

Mountaineering equipment - Personal belay lanyards - Safety requirements and test methods

This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for lanyards intended to be the primary connection between the climber and the belay stance with the ability to withstand a dynamic impact. Lanyards intended only for positioning (e.g. daisy chain) or energy absorption in via ferrata or lanyards for rope courses are not covered by this document.

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Selbstsichernde Verbindungsmittel - Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Dieses Dokument legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Verbindungsmittel fest, die als primäre Verbindung zwischen dem Bergsteiger und dem Standplatz vorgesehen sind und die Fähigkeit besitzen, einer dynamischen Einwirkung standzuhalten. Verbindungsmittel, die ausschließlich zur Positionierung (z. B. Daisy Chain) oder zur Energieaufnahme im Klettersteig oder für Seilgärten vorgesehen sind, werden von diesem Dokument nicht abgedeckt.

Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Longes d’auto-assurage - Exigences et méthodes d’essai

Le présent document spécifie les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai relatives aux longes destinées à constituer la connexion primaire entre le grimpeur et le relais, avec la capacité de supporter un choc dynamique. Les longes destinées uniquement au maintien (par exemple, daisy chain), à l’absorption d’énergie en via ferrata ou les longes sur des parcours acrobatiques en hauteur ne sont pas couvertes par le présent document.

Gorniška oprema - Vrvi z zaključno samozaporno zanko - Zahteve in preskusne metode

General Information

• Status: Not Published
• ICS: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment
• Technical Committee: CEN/TC 136 - Sports, playground and other recreational equipment
• Drafting Committee: CEN/TC 136/WG 5 - Mountaineering and climbing equipment
• Current Stage: 5060 - Closure of Vote - Formal Approval
• Due Date: 16-Sep-2021
• Completion Date: 16-Sep-2021
• Directive: 2016/425 - Regulation (EU) 2016/425 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 9 March 2016 on personal protective equipment and repealing Council Directive 89/686/EEC
• Mandate: M/031 - Standardization mandate to CEN/CENELEC concerning standards for Personal Protective Equipment
• Mandate: M/571 - COMMISSION IMPLEMENTING DECISION of 19.11.2020 on a standardisation request to the European Committee for Standardization and the European Committee for Electrotechnical Standardization as regards personal protective equipment in support of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 of the European Parliament and of the Council
• Ref Project: kSIST FprEN 17520:2021 - Mountaineering equipment - Personal belay lanyards - Safety requirements and test methods

Standards Content (sample)

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
oSIST prEN 17520:2020
01-julij-2020
Gorniška oprema - Vrvi z zaključno samozaporno zanko - Zahteve in preskusne
metode

Mountaineering equipment - Self-belaying lanyards - Requirements and test methods

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Selbstsichernde Verbindungsmittel - Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Longes d’auto-assurage - Exigences et
méthodes d’essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN 17520
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
oSIST prEN 17520:2020 en,fr,de

2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
DRAFT
EUROPEAN STANDARD
prEN 17520
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
May 2020
ICS 97.220.40
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Self-belaying lanyards -
Requirements and test methods

Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Longes d'auto- Bergsteigerausrüstung - Selbstsichernde

assurage - Exigences et méthodes d'essai Verbindungsmittel - Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for enquiry. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee

CEN/TC 136.

If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations

which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.

This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other

language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC

Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,

Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,

Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and

United Kingdom.

Recipients of this draft are invited to submit, with their comments, notification of any relevant patent rights of which they are

aware and to provide supporting documentation.

Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without

notice and shall not be referred to as a European Standard.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels

© 2020 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. prEN 17520:2020 E

worldwide for CEN national Members.
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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
prEN 17520:2020 (E)
Contents Page

European foreword ....................................................................................................................................................... 3

Introduction .................................................................................................................................................................... 4

1 Scope .................................................................................................................................................................... 5

2 Normative references .................................................................................................................................... 5

3 Terms and definitions ................................................................................................................................... 5

4 Safety requirements ....................................................................................................................................... 6

4.1 Design and ergonomics ................................................................................................................................. 6

4.2 Dynamic test ..................................................................................................................................................... 6

4.3 Slippage test ...................................................................................................................................................... 7

5 Test methods .................................................................................................................................................... 7

5.1 General ................................................................................................................................................................ 7

5.2 Dynamic test ..................................................................................................................................................... 7

5.2.1 Test samples ..................................................................................................................................................... 7

5.2.2 Conditioning and tests conditions ............................................................................................................ 7

5.2.3 Measurement of the maximum length ..................................................................................................... 7

5.2.4 Apparatus ........................................................................................................................................................... 7

5.2.5 Dynamic strength test ................................................................................................................................... 8

5.3 Slippage test for adjustable personal belay lanyard .......................................................................... 8

5.3.1 Conditioning and test conditions .............................................................................................................. 8

5.3.2 Determination of slippage ........................................................................................................................... 8

6 Markings ............................................................................................................................................................. 9

7 Manufacturer's instructions and information ...................................................................................... 9

Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment ......................................................... 11

Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the essential

requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered ............................................. 13

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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
prEN 17520:2020 (E)
European foreword

This document (prEN 17520:2020) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,

playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.

This document is currently submitted to the CEN Enquiry.
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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
prEN 17520:2020 (E)
Introduction

The text of this document is based on the former UIAA-Standard 109:2018 (Union Internationale des

Associations d'Alpinisme/International mountaineering and climbing federation), which was developed

with international participation.

This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.

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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
prEN 17520:2020 (E)
1 Scope

This document applies to lanyards intended to be the primary connection between the climber and the

belay stance with the ability of withstanding a dynamic impact.

NOTE Lanyards intended only for positioning or for rope courses are not covered by this document (e.g. daisy

chain).
2 Normative references

The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content

constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For

undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

EN 892, Mountaineering equipment - Dynamic mountaineering ropes - Safety requirements and test

methods

EN 12275, Mountaineering equipment - Connectors - Safety requirements and test methods

3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:

— ISO Online browsing platform: available at http://www.iso.org/obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at http://www.electropedia.org/
3.1
personal belay lanyard

flexible connecting element able to absorb energy in case of fall, with at least two connecting points,

used to connect the user's harness to the belay stance and possibly to a climbing device

3.2
adjustable personal belay lanyard

belay lanyard whose length is intended to be adjusted using the manufacturer’s instructions and

information
3.3
multi-arms personal belay lanyard

personal belay lanyard with a maximum of two arms fitted with connecting points, one or both arms

may be adjustable
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1 for an example.
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oSIST prEN 17520:2020
prEN 17520:2020 (E)
Key
1 Arm
2 Connecting points
3 Connecting point to be connected to the harness
Figure 1 — Example of multi-arms personal belay lanyard
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Design and ergonomics

4.1.1 When checked in accordance with 5.1, the personal belay lanyard shall not have sharp edges or

burrs that may cause injury to the user or that may cut, abrade or otherwise cause damage to the

personal belay lanyard itself.

4.1.2 When checked in accordance with 5.1, the adjustable personal belay lanyard shall be fitted with

an end stop which shall prevent unintentional detachment of the length adjustment device from the

personal belay lanyard.

4.1.3 The personal belay lanyard shall be connected to the harness as specified in the manufacturer's

instructions and information.

4.1.4 When the personal belay lanyard is provided with a connector intended to be attached to the

belay stance, this connector shall be fitted with a gate-locking device and conform to EN 12275. It shall

be Class T or provided with a component that ensures that the connector is loaded only along its major

axis.

4.1.5 When checked in accordance with 5.1 where stitching providing safety and strength may be

subject to abrasion, it shall contrast in colour with the personal belay lanyard material.

4.2 Dynamic test

When tested in accordance with 5.2, the personal belay lanyard shall not release the mass. The peak

force of the first fall shall be less than 10 kN.

If the personal belay lanyard has a fall indicator as claimed by the manufacturer, check after the last fall

that the fall indicator is activated.
NOTE The risk of a fall on two arms, which would increase the impact force, has
...