Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods

This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons intended to prevent the user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Dieses Dokument legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Steigeisen fest, die den Benutzer vor dem Abrutschen beim Bergsteigen in Firn und Eis einschließlich Klettern in gemischtem Gelände bewahren sollen.

Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d’essai

Le présent document fixe les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai relatives aux crampons destinés à empêcher l’utilisateur de glisser dans la pratique de l’alpinisme et de l’escalade sur neige et sur glace, ainsi qu’en terrain mixte.

Gorniška oprema - Dereze - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode

Ta dokument določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za dereze, ki preprečujejo zdrs uporabnika, kadar jih uporablja v gorništvu na snegu in ledu, vključno s plezanjem po raznovrstnem terenu.

General Information

Status
Published
Publication Date
06-Aug-2019
Current Stage
6060 - Definitive text made available (DAV) - Publishing
Due Date
07-Aug-2019
Completion Date
07-Aug-2019

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SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN 893:2019
01-oktober-2019
Nadomešča:
SIST EN 893:2011
Gorniška oprema - Dereze - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen- Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren

Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes

d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 893:2019
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
SIST EN 893:2019 en,fr,de

2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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SIST EN 893:2019
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SIST EN 893:2019
EN 893
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
August 2019
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 893:2010
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety
requirements and test methods

Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen -

Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und

Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 2 May 2019.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this

European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references

concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN

member.

This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by

translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management

Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,

Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,

Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and

United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels

© 2019 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 893:2019 E

worldwide for CEN national Members.
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SIST EN 893:2019
EN 893:2019 (E)
Contents Page

European foreword ....................................................................................................................................................... 3

Introduction .................................................................................................................................................................... 4

1 Scope .................................................................................................................................................................... 5

2 Normative references .................................................................................................................................... 5

3 Terms and definitions ................................................................................................................................... 5

4 Safety requirements ....................................................................................................................................... 8

4.1 Shape and design ............................................................................................................................................. 8

4.2 Prevention against slippage ........................................................................................................................ 8

4.3 Strength .............................................................................................................................................................. 8

4.3.1 Hardness ............................................................................................................................................................. 8

4.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes ............................................................................................... 9

4.3.3 Transverse strength of bails of clip-on bindings ................................................................................. 9

4.3.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails ............................................................................................. 9

4.3.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding ............... 9

4.3.6 Longitudinal strength of the frame ........................................................................................................... 9

5 Test methods ................................................................................................................................................. 10

5.1 Test samples .................................................................................................................................................. 10

5.2 Test conditions .............................................................................................................................................. 10

5.3 Test apparatus for bending strength on spikes ................................................................................ 10

5.4 Test procedure .............................................................................................................................................. 12

5.4.1 Shape, design and hardness ..................................................................................................................... 12

5.4.2 Prevention against slippage ..................................................................................................................... 12

5.4.3 Bending strength test on spikes .............................................................................................................. 13

5.4.4 Transverse strength test on bails ........................................................................................................... 14

5.4.5 Strength test of binding parts other than bails ................................................................................. 16

5.4.6 Strength test of binding closures ............................................................................................................ 18

5.4.7 Strength test of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding .... 18

5.4.8 Longitudinal strength test of the frame ............................................................................................... 18

6 Marking ............................................................................................................................................................ 19

7 Information supplied by the manufacturer ........................................................................................ 20

Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment ........................................................... 21

Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the essential

requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 of the European Parliament and of the

Council of 9 March 2016 on personal protective equipment aimed to be covered ............. 23

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SIST EN 893:2019
EN 893:2019 (E)
European foreword

This document (EN 893:2019) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,

playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.

This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an

identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by February 2020, and conflicting national standards

shall be withdrawn at the latest by February 2020.

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of

patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.

This document supersedes EN 893:2010.

This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the

European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425.

For relationship with Regulation (EU) 2016/425, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of

this document.
The main changes compared to the previous edition are as follows:
— Definition 3.8 for 'attachment rings or eyes' updated;
— update of Table 1, Strength of spikes;
— update of 5.1, Test samples;

— concretization of former Subclause 5.3, Apparatus, in title 'Test apparatus for bending strength on

spikes' and content;
— update of 5.4.3, Bending strength test on spikes;
— update of 5.4.4, Transverse strength test on bails;
— update of Clause 6, Marking;
— update of Clause 7, Information supplied by the manufacturer;
— update of Annex A, Standards on mountaineering equipment;
— new Annex ZA;
— editorial updates.

According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the

following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria,

Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland,

Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of

North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the

United Kingdom.
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SIST EN 893:2019
EN 893:2019 (E)
Introduction

The text of this document is based on the former UIAA-Standard S (Union Internationale des

Associations d'Alpinisme/International mountaineering and climbing federation), which was developed

with international participation.

This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.

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SIST EN 893:2019
EN 893:2019 (E)
1 Scope

This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons intended to prevent the

user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.

2 Normative references

The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content

constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For

undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

EN 565:2017, Mountaineering equipment – Tape – Safety requirements and test methods

EN ISO 6508-1:2016, Metallic materials – Rockwell hardness test – Part 1: Test method (ISO 6508-1:2016)

ISO 7000, Graphical symbols for use on equipment – Registered symbols

ISO 9523:2015, Touring ski-boots for adults – Interface with touring ski-bindings – Requirements and test

methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.

ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:

• IEC Electropedia: available at http://www.electropedia.org/
• ISO Online browsing platform: available at http://www.iso.org/obp
Note 1 to entry: See also Figure 1.
3.1
crampon

device fitted with spikes, which is intended to cover the sole of a boot from toe to heel and from one

side to the other, so as to provide grip on snow, ice and mixed terrain and which has a system of

attachment to the boot
3.2
frame
part or parts of the crampon which bears the spikes
3.3
front spike
forward pointing spike intended for use when climbing steep terrain
3.4
downward spike
spike usually, but not necessarily, pointing vertically downward
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SIST EN 893:2019
EN 893:2019 (E)
3.5
binding
system of attachment to the boot
3.6
clip-on binding

particular binding which uses a lever mechanism for rapid attachment of a crampon to a boot

3.7
bail

stirrup-shaped part or parts of a binding used to connect the crampon to the toe and/or to the heel of

the boot
3.8
attachment rings or eyes

rings or eyes which are threaded by a part of the binding when fitted in accordance with the

manufacturer's instructions and information
3.9
adjustment system
system for adjusting the crampon to fit the boot
3.10
retaining system
system which prevents the climber from losing the crampon if the binding fails
3.11
spur
another spike than front spikes and downward spikes
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SIST EN 893:2019
EN 893:2019 (E)

NOTE The numbers in this figure refer to the corresponding terms defined in Clause 3.

Figure 1 — Parts of a crampon
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SIST EN 893:2019
EN 893:2019 (E)
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Shape and design

4.1.1 When tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1, each crampon shall have a system of attachment to the

boot.

4.1.2 When tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1 each crampon shall have at least eight spikes, not

including spurs.

4.1.3 When tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1, each crampon shall have at least six downward spikes,

which:

a) when tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1, the spikes shall be at least 20 mm long (see Figure 2) but

not have necessarily all the same length;

b) when tested in accordance with 5.4.1.2, the spikes, when walking normally on flat and smooth ice,

shall contact the surface of the ice, but not necessarily at the same time; and

c) when tested in accordance with 5.4.2.2, the spikes shall be shaped such that when loaded with one

person's weight whilst walking on smooth ice, the downward spikes “bite” into the ice such as to

prevent slipping.
Dimensions in millimetres
Figure 2 — Minimum length of spikes

4.1.4 When tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1, all edges with which the user's hands can come into

contact shall be free from burrs.

4.1.5 If the crampon has a clip-on binding, when tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1, it shall be fitted

with a retaining system.
4.2 Prevention against slippage

When tested in accordance with 5.4.2, the crampons shall not slip on the ice more than 10 mm in each

direction.
4.3 Strength
4.3.1 Hardness

Each part of the crampon which contains a spike or spikes shall have a Rockwell hardness of at least

70 HRB.
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SIST EN 893:2019
EN 893:2019 (E)
Testing in accordance with 5.4.1.3.
4.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes

When tested in accordance with 5.4.3, the maximum deformation under load and the permanent

deformation after removing the load, measured at the point of application, shall not be more than

shown in Table 1. The breaking strength shall be at least as shown in Table 1.
Spurs shall be tested with a load applied in each direction of intended use.
Table 1 — Strength of spikes
Types of sp
...

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