EN 893:2019
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons intended to prevent the user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Dieses Dokument legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Steigeisen fest, die den Benutzer vor dem Abrutschen beim Bergsteigen in Firn und Eis einschließlich Klettern in gemischtem Gelände bewahren sollen.
Équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d’essai
Le présent document fixe les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai relatives aux crampons destinés à empêcher l’utilisateur de glisser dans la pratique de l’alpinisme et de l’escalade sur neige et sur glace, ainsi qu’en terrain mixte.
Gorniška oprema - Dereze - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta dokument določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za dereze, ki preprečujejo zdrs uporabnika, kadar jih uporablja v gorništvu na snegu in ledu, vključno s plezanjem po raznovrstnem terenu.
General Information
Relations
Overview
EN 893:2019 - published by CEN - specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons used in mountaineering on snow, ice and mixed terrain. The standard defines minimum design, strength, hardness and anti‑slip performance so crampons reliably prevent users from slipping during technical walking and climbing.
Key topics and technical requirements
- Scope: Crampons intended to cover the boot sole from toe to heel and to provide grip on snow, ice and mixed terrain (Clause 1, 3.1).
- Design requirements:
- At least eight spikes per crampon and at least six downward spikes (Clause 4.1.2–4.1.3).
- Downward spikes must be ≥ 20 mm long and contact smooth ice when walking (Clause 4.1.3).
- All hand‑contact edges must be burr‑free; clip‑on bindings require a retaining system (Clauses 4.1.4–4.1.5).
- Anti‑slip performance: When tested on ice, crampons shall not slip more than 10 mm in each direction (Clause 4.2).
- Material hardness: Parts containing spikes shall have a Rockwell hardness of ≥ 70 HRB (Clause 4.3.1).
- Strength and deformation limits (spikes): Bending and breaking tests specify applied forces, maximum deformation and minimum breaking strengths (Table 1):
- Downward spike: 900 ±20 N applied, max deformation 15 mm, permanent ≤7 mm, breaking ≥1 200 N.
- Front spike: 1 200 ±30 N applied, max deformation 15 mm, permanent ≤7 mm, breaking ≥1 500 N.
- Mono (single) front spike: 1 600 ±40 N applied, breaking ≥2 000 N (Clause 4.3.2, Table 1).
- Binding and frame strength: Transverse strength of clip‑on bails, strength of other binding parts and attachment rings/eyes, and longitudinal frame strength are all specified with pass/fail criteria (Clauses 4.3.3–4.3.6).
- Test methods & conditions: Detailed procedures (Clause 5) include sample preparation (two test samples), room temperature for tests (23 ±5 °C), conditioning of non‑metallic parts in water and cold (−30 ±5 °C), and ice test preparation (ice at −20 ±2 °C).
Applications and users
- Manufacturers and product designers: to design, validate and document crampon safety and compliance.
- Test laboratories and conformity assessors: to perform specified mechanical, hardness and ice‑slip tests.
- Distributors, retailers and specifiers: to verify product claims and safety information.
- Regulators and certification bodies: aligns with PPE Regulation (EU) 2016/425 (see Annex ZA).
Related standards
Normative references include EN 565:2017 (tape requirements), EN ISO 6508‑1:2016 (Rockwell hardness) and ISO 9523:2015 (interface requirements for touring ski‑boots). EN 893:2019 is part of a package of mountaineering equipment standards (Annex A).
Keywords: EN 893:2019, crampons, mountaineering equipment, safety requirements, test methods, crampon testing, spike strength, Rockwell hardness, clip‑on binding, anti‑slip.
Frequently Asked Questions
EN 893:2019 is a standard published by the European Committee for Standardization (CEN). Its full title is "Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods". This standard covers: This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons intended to prevent the user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons intended to prevent the user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.
EN 893:2019 is classified under the following ICS (International Classification for Standards) categories: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment. The ICS classification helps identify the subject area and facilitates finding related standards.
EN 893:2019 has the following relationships with other standards: It is inter standard links to EN 893:2010. Understanding these relationships helps ensure you are using the most current and applicable version of the standard.
EN 893:2019 is associated with the following European legislation: EU Directives/Regulations: 2016/425, 89/686/EEC; Standardization Mandates: M/031, M/571, M/571 AMD 1. When a standard is cited in the Official Journal of the European Union, products manufactured in conformity with it benefit from a presumption of conformity with the essential requirements of the corresponding EU directive or regulation.
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Standards Content (Sample)
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-oktober-2019
Nadomešča:
SIST EN 893:2011
Gorniška oprema - Dereze - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen- Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes
d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 893:2019
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
EN 893
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
August 2019
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 893:2010
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety
requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen -
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 2 May 2019.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and
United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2019 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 893:2019 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
Contents Page
European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 8
4.1 Shape and design . 8
4.2 Prevention against slippage . 8
4.3 Strength . 8
4.3.1 Hardness . 8
4.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes . 9
4.3.3 Transverse strength of bails of clip-on bindings . 9
4.3.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails . 9
4.3.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding . 9
4.3.6 Longitudinal strength of the frame . 9
5 Test methods . 10
5.1 Test samples . 10
5.2 Test conditions . 10
5.3 Test apparatus for bending strength on spikes . 10
5.4 Test procedure . 12
5.4.1 Shape, design and hardness . 12
5.4.2 Prevention against slippage . 12
5.4.3 Bending strength test on spikes . 13
5.4.4 Transverse strength test on bails . 14
5.4.5 Strength test of binding parts other than bails . 16
5.4.6 Strength test of binding closures . 18
5.4.7 Strength test of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding . 18
5.4.8 Longitudinal strength test of the frame . 18
6 Marking . 19
7 Information supplied by the manufacturer . 20
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 21
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 of the European Parliament and of the
Council of 9 March 2016 on personal protective equipment aimed to be covered . 23
European foreword
This document (EN 893:2019) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by February 2020, and conflicting national standards
shall be withdrawn at the latest by February 2020.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document supersedes EN 893:2010.
This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the
European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425.
For relationship with Regulation (EU) 2016/425, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of
this document.
The main changes compared to the previous edition are as follows:
— Definition 3.8 for 'attachment rings or eyes' updated;
— update of Table 1, Strength of spikes;
— update of 5.1, Test samples;
— concretization of former Subclause 5.3, Apparatus, in title 'Test apparatus for bending strength on
spikes' and content;
— update of 5.4.3, Bending strength test on spikes;
— update of 5.4.4, Transverse strength test on bails;
— update of Clause 6, Marking;
— update of Clause 7, Information supplied by the manufacturer;
— update of Annex A, Standards on mountaineering equipment;
— new Annex ZA;
— editorial updates.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria,
Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland,
Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of
North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the
United Kingdom.
Introduction
The text of this document is based on the former UIAA-Standard S (Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme/International mountaineering and climbing federation), which was developed
with international participation.
This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons intended to prevent the
user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 565:2017, Mountaineering equipment – Tape – Safety requirements and test methods
EN ISO 6508-1:2016, Metallic materials – Rockwell hardness test – Part 1: Test method (ISO 6508-1:2016)
ISO 7000, Graphical symbols for use on equipment – Registered symbols
ISO 9523:2015, Touring ski-boots for adults – Interface with touring ski-bindings – Requirements and test
methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
• IEC Electropedia: available at http://www.electropedia.org/
• ISO Online browsing platform: available at http://www.iso.org/obp
Note 1 to entry: See also Figure 1.
3.1
crampon
device fitted with spikes, which is intended to cover the sole of a boot from toe to heel and from one
side to the other, so as to provide grip on snow, ice and mixed terrain and which has a system of
attachment to the boot
3.2
frame
part or parts of the crampon which bears the spikes
3.3
front spike
forward pointing spike intended for use when climbing steep terrain
3.4
downward spike
spike usually, but not necessarily, pointing vertically downward
3.5
binding
system of attachment to the boot
3.6
clip-on binding
particular binding which uses a lever mechanism for rapid attachment of a crampon to a boot
3.7
bail
stirrup-shaped part or parts of a binding used to connect the crampon to the toe and/or to the heel of
the boot
3.8
attachment rings or eyes
rings or eyes which are threaded by a part of the binding when fitted in accordance with the
manufacturer's instructions and information
3.9
adjustment system
system for adjusting the crampon to fit the boot
3.10
retaining system
system which prevents the climber from losing the crampon if the binding fails
3.11
spur
another spike than front spikes and downward spikes
NOTE The numbers in this figure refer to the corresponding terms defined in Clause 3.
Figure 1 — Parts of a crampon
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Shape and design
4.1.1 When tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1, each crampon shall have a system of attachment to the
boot.
4.1.2 When tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1 each crampon shall have at least eight spikes, not
including spurs.
4.1.3 When tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1, each crampon shall have at least six downward spikes,
which:
a) when tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1, the spikes shall be at least 20 mm long (see Figure 2) but
not have necessarily all the same length;
b) when tested in accordance with 5.4.1.2, the spikes, when walking normally on flat and smooth ice,
shall contact the surface of the ice, but not necessarily at the same time; and
c) when tested in accordance with 5.4.2.2, the spikes shall be shaped such that when loaded with one
person's weight whilst walking on smooth ice, the downward spikes “bite” into the ice such as to
prevent slipping.
Dimensions in millimetres
Figure 2 — Minimum length of spikes
4.1.4 When tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1, all edges with which the user's hands can come into
contact shall be free from burrs.
4.1.5 If the crampon has a clip-on binding, when tested in accordance with 5.4.1.1, it shall be fitted
with a retaining system.
4.2 Prevention against slippage
When tested in accordance with 5.4.2, the crampons shall not slip on the ice more than 10 mm in each
direction.
4.3 Strength
4.3.1 Hardness
Each part of the crampon which contains a spike or spikes shall have a Rockwell hardness of at least
70 HRB.
Testing in accordance with 5.4.1.3.
4.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes
When tested in accordance with 5.4.3, the maximum deformation under load and the permanent
deformation after removing the load, measured at the point of application, shall not be more than
shown in Table 1. The breaking strength shall be at least as shown in Table 1.
Spurs shall be tested with a load applied in each direction of intended use.
Table 1 — Strength of spikes
Types of sp
...
SIST EN 893:2019 표준은 눈과 얼음에서의 등반 시 사용자 slipping을 방지하기 위해 설계된 크램폰에 대한 안전 요구사항 및 시험 방법을 명확히 규정하고 있습니다. 이 표준은 크램폰의 사용자가 극한의 환경에서도 안전하게 작업할 수 있도록 보장하는 것을 목적으로 하며, 이러한 목적 내에서 다양한 시험 방법을 제시합니다. 이 표준의 강점 중 하나는 모든 종류의 지형, 특히 혼합 지형에서의 안정성을 확보할 수 있도록 설계되어 있다는 점입니다. 크램폰의 설계, 제작 및 시험 과정에서 안전성을 최우선으로 고려하도록 요구함으로써 사용자의 안전을 보장하는 기초를 마련합니다. 또한, 이 문서는 국제 표준에 부합하며, 글로벌 시장에서의 크램폰의 품질을 보장하는 역할을 합니다. 크램폰이 사용하는 다양한 재료와 구조적 특성에 따라 서로 다른 시험 기준을 설정하고 있어, 사용자에게 제품 선택 시 더 많은 정보를 제공합니다. 이러한 표준의 도입은 산업 전반에 걸쳐 일관된 품질 기준을 제공하며, 이를 통해 사용자는 제조사에 대한 신뢰도를 높일 수 있습니다. SIST EN 893:2019는 크램폰의 안전성을 확보하는 동시에 사용자의 신뢰를 증진시키는 데 기여하며, 끊임없이 변화하는 등산 장비 시장에서 중요한 역할을 합니다. 이 표준의 적절한 실행은 모든 산악 스포츠 애호가들에게 필수적이며, 특히 극한 환경에서의 안전성을 크게 향상시킬 것입니다.
SIST EN 893:2019は、登山用器具に関する重要な標準文書であり、特にアイゼンに焦点を当てています。アイゼンは、雪や氷の上での滑りを防ぐために不可欠な装備で、特に混合地形を含む登山活動において重要な役割を果たします。この標準は、アイゼンの安全要件と試験方法を明確に規定しており、利用者が安全に登山を行えるよう支援します。 この文書の強みは、それぞれの試験方法が厳密に定義されている点にあります。試験は、アイゼンの性能が高いことを確保するだけでなく、実際の使用状況においても安全性を維持するための基準を提供しています。また、登山技術の進歩やユーザーのニーズの変化に対応するため、基準は定期的に見直される点も見逃せません。 さらに、SIST EN 893:2019は、登山愛好者やプロフェッショナルにとって、装備選びの際の指針となる重要な文書であり、さまざまな環境下におけるアイゼンの適合性を示す信頼性のあるリソースです。この標準によって、ユーザーはより安全な装備を選択でき、滑りや事故のリスクを大幅に減少させることが可能になります。 総じて、SIST EN 893:2019は、アイゼンに関する安全基準を提供することで、登山者にとって非常に有意義な文書であり、その適用範囲や強みは、より安全な登山体験の実現に寄与していると言えます。
Die Norm EN 893:2019 legt die Sicherheitsanforderungen und Prüfmethoden für Steigeisen fest, die entscheidend für die Sicherheit von Anwendern im Bereich des Bergsteigens sind. Sie richtet sich an Produkte, die darauf ausgelegt sind, das Ausrutschen auf Schnee und Eis zu verhindern, einschließlich beim Klettern in gemischtem Gelände. Diese Spezifikation verdeutlicht die Relevanz und Notwendigkeit spezifischer Sicherheitsstandards in einem potenziell gefährlichen Umfeld. Ein hervorzuhebendes Merkmal dieser Norm ist ihre umfassende Herangehensweise an die Sicherheitsanforderungen. Sie stellt sicher, dass die Steigeisen nicht nur funktional sind, sondern auch anerkannte Qualitätsstandards erfüllen, um Verletzungen zu verhindern. Vor allem die Prüfmethoden, die innerhalb dieser Norm definiert sind, gewährleisten die Verlässlichkeit und die Sicherheit der Steigeisen und dienen damit sowohl Herstellern als auch Nutzern als maßgebliche Richtlinie. Die Norm EN 893:2019 ist von besonderer Bedeutung für Hersteller von Bergsteigerausrüstung, da sie klare Richtlinien für die Entwicklung und das Testing von Steigeisen bereitstellt. Dadurch wird nicht nur die Produktqualität sichergestellt, sondern auch das Vertrauen der Verbraucher in die Sicherheit der Ausrüstung gestärkt. Dies ist besonders wichtig in Hinblick auf den zunehmenden Outdoor-Trend und die steigende Zahl von Hobby-Bergsteigern, die geeignete Sicherheitsausrüstung benötigen. Insgesamt ist die SIST EN 893:2019 eine essentielle Norm, die die Sicherheitsstandards für Steigeisen klar definiert und somit einen wertvollen Beitrag zur Sicherheit im Bergsport leistet. Ihre Relevanz erstreckt sich über die Herstellung und die Nutzung hinweg, indem sie sowohl die Industrie als auch die Endanwender in den Fokus rückt und darauf abzielt, das Unfallrisiko beim Bergsteigen zu minimieren.
The EN 893:2019 standard provides comprehensive guidelines that are crucial for the safety and performance of crampons used in mountaineering. This document delineates specific safety requirements and test methods that manufacturers must adhere to in order to ensure that crampons effectively prevent slipping on snow, ice, and mixed terrain. One of the significant strengths of the EN 893:2019 standard is its rigorous approach to safety. By outlining clear testing protocols, it ensures that all crampons meet essential performance criteria before they are made available to users. This is particularly relevant for mountaineers, as the risk of slipping can lead to severe accidents in harsh environments. The standardized tests not only focus on the physical attributes of crampons but also simulate real-world conditions, which enhances their reliability in actual mountaineering scenarios. Additionally, the scope of this standard covers a wide range of crampon types, thereby making it applicable for various user requirements and mountaineering styles. Whether for professional climbers tackling challenging ascents or recreational users navigating less demanding terrains, the EN 893:2019 provides a baseline for performance and safety. This inclusivity is a vital aspect that enhances the document's relevance in the current market, where a diverse range of mountaineering enthusiasts are present. Furthermore, the standard incorporates advancements in materials and technology, ensuring that it remains up-to-date with contemporary crampon designs. By focusing not just on traditional methods, but also on innovations in manufacturing, EN 893:2019 ensures that safety measures are aligned with the latest industry developments. Overall, the EN 893:2019 standard stands out as a critical framework for ensuring the safety of mountaineering equipment, particularly crampons. Its detailed requirements and robust testing methods significantly contribute to minimizing risks associated with ice and snow climbing, making it an essential reference for manufacturers and users alike.
La norme SIST EN 893:2019 établit des exigences de sécurité et des méthodes d'essai pour les crampons utilisés en alpinisme. Son champ d'application est bien défini, visant spécifiquement les crampons destinés à prévenir les glissades lors de l'utilisation sur la neige et la glace, y compris lors de l'escalade sur des terrains mixtes. Cette spécialisation est cruciale pour garantir la sécurité des alpinistes, qui doivent pouvoir compter sur un matériel fiable dans des conditions potentiellement dangereuses. Parmi ses points forts, la norme met en avant des critères techniques rigoureux qui assurent la performance et la durabilité des crampons. Les tests prévus dans le document permettent de simuler différentes conditions d'utilisation, ce qui garantit que les équipements répondent aux attentes des utilisateurs finaux. De plus, l'accent mis sur la conformité aux normes de sécurité internationales renforce la crédibilité des produits validés selon cette norme. La pertinence de la SIST EN 893:2019 repose également sur l’évolution des pratiques en alpinisme, où l'équipement doit s'adapter aux défis contemporains. Avec la popularité croissante des activités en milieu montagnard, cette norme devient essentielle pour les fabricants souhaitant offrir des crampons de haute qualité, répondant aux besoins des alpinistes, tout en respectant les standards de sécurité les plus exigeants. En conséquence, cette norme contribue non seulement à sécuriser les pratiques sportives, mais aussi à standardiser les versions commerciales des crampons, assurant ainsi une uniformité dans la sécurité des utilisateurs.
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