Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods

This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering
including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai

Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode (z dopolnili do vključno A2)

Ta dokument določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za orodje za led za uporabo v gorništvu, vključno s plezanjem, in kot vkopano sidro za zaščito pred padci.

General Information

Status
Withdrawn
Publication Date
13-Jan-2022
Withdrawal Date
12-Jun-2023
Technical Committee
Current Stage
9900 - Withdrawal (Adopted Project)
Start Date
16-May-2023
Due Date
08-Jun-2023
Completion Date
13-Jun-2023

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SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN 13089:2011+A2:2022
01-februar-2022
Nadomešča:
SIST EN 13089:2011+A1:2015
Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode (z
dopolnili do vključno A2)
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et
méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 13089:2011+A2:2021
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
SIST EN 13089:2011+A2:2022 en,fr,de
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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SIST EN 13089:2011+A2:2022

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SIST EN 13089:2011+A2:2022


EN 13089:2011+A2
EUROPEAN STANDARD

NORME EUROPÉENNE

December 2021
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 13089:2011+A1:2015
English Version

Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety
requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte -
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 19 March 2015 and includes Amendment 2 approved by CEN on 17 October
2021.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.

This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and
United Kingdom.





EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2021 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 13089:2011+A2:2021 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

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SIST EN 13089:2011+A2:2022
EN 13089:2011+A2:2021 (E)
Contents Page
European foreword . 3
Introduction . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 6
4.1 Edges . 6
4.2 Shaft strength . 6
4.3 Strength in the load direction YY. 6
4.4 Strength in the load direction XX . 6
4.5 Pick strength . 7
5 Test methods . 7
5.1 Preparation of test samples . 7
5.2 Apparatus . 7
5.3 Procedure. 7
5.3.1 Test sample . 7
5.3.2 Edges . 8
5.3.3 Shaft strength . 8
5.3.4 Strength in the load direction YY. 9
5.3.5 Strength in the load direction XX . 9
5.3.6 Pick strength . 10
6 Marking . 11
7 Information to be supplied by the manufacturer . 12
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 13
Annex ZA (informative) #Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered . 15

2

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SIST EN 13089:2011+A2:2022
EN 13089:2011+A2:2021 (E)
European foreword
This document (EN 13089:2011+A2:2021) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136
“Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by
DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by June 2022, and conflicting national standards shall be
withdrawn at the latest by June 2022.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document supersedes #EN 13089:2011+A1:2015$.
This document includes Amendment 1 approved by CEN on 2015-03-19, and Amendment 2 approved
by CEN on 2021-10-17.
The start and finish of text introduced or altered by amendment is indicated in the text by tags !"
and #$.
This document has been prepared under a standardization request given to CEN by the European
Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU
Directive(s).
For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this
document.
In comparison with the previous edition EN 13089:1999, the following significant changes have been
made:
a) an editorial revision has been carried on;
b) the Scope is more specified to ice-tools as protection against falls;
c) there is a new classification of ice-tools;
d) Subclause 4.7 was deleted;
e) the test method for shaft strength has been revised;
f) Subclause 5.3.7 was deleted;
g) there is an additional marking.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards body.
A complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria,
Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland,
Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of
North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the
United Kingdom.
3

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SIST EN 13089:2011+A2:2022
EN 13089:2011+A2:2021 (E)
Introduction
This document is based on the former UIAA-Standard C (Union Internationale des !Associations"
d'Alpinisme), which has been prepared with international participation.
This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
4

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SIST EN 13089:2011+A2:2022
EN 13089:2011+A2:2021 (E)
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering
including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content con-
stitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated
references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 565, Mountaineering equipment - Tape - Safety requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
ice-tool
hand held tool intended for movement on snow and/or ice and/or rock which can also be used as an
anchor point or as a brake in snow and comprises at least a shaft and a pick
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
3.2
type 1 ice-tool
ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use in snow and/or ice
3.3
type 2 ice-tool
ice-tool with a shaft/pick connection intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice
3.4
type 1 pick
pick intended for use in snow and/or ice
3.5
type 2 pick
pick intended for use on rock, and/or snow, and/or ice
5

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SIST EN 13089:2011+A2:2022
EN 13089:2011+A2:2021 (E)

Key
1 Shaft of the ice-tool
2 Pick of the ice-tool
Figure 1 — Main parts of an ice-tool
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Edges
All edges of the ice-tool with which the user's hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs. The
shaft of the ice tool has to be free of sharp edges.
4.2 Shaft strength
When tested in accordance with 5.3.3, on removal of the load from the shaft the permanent deformation
at the point of application of the load shall not exceed 3 mm or the calculated f value.
K
4.3 Strength in the load direction YY
When tested in the load direction YY (see Figure 2) in accordance with 5.3.4,
a) the test sample shall not b
...

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