ASTM D3995-95

Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Women's Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dress and Vocational

SCOPE
1.1 This performance specification covers the minimum performance requirements for men's and women's knitted fabrics for dress and vocational career apparel composed of any textile fiber or mixtures of textile fibers.
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to career apparel fabrics such as those used in protective clothing, that do not patently fit the categories in and . Minimum performance specifications for such fabrics should be as agreed between the purchaser and the seller.
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those factors where each fabric direction is pertinent.
1.4 The following precautionary statement pertains only to the test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

General Information

• Status: Historical
• Publication Date: 09-May-2002
• ICS: 61.020 - Clothes
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.61 - Apparel

Relations

• Replaced By: ASTM D3995-02 - Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Women's Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dress and Vocational
• Effective Date: 10-May-2002

Standards Content (Sample)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
Designation: D 3995 – 95
Standard Performance Specification for
Men’s and Women’s Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dress
and Vocational
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3995; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 2.2 AATCC Methods:
AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter
1.1 This performance specification covers the minimum
Method
performance requirements for men’s and women’s knitted
AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
fabrics for dress and vocational career apparel composed of
AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light
any textile fiber or mixtures of textile fibers.
AATCC 23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to
AATCC 61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic Launder-
career apparel fabrics such as those used in protective clothing,
ing, Commercial: Accelerated
that do not patently fit the categories in 3.1.1 and 3.1.2.
AATCC 116 Colorfastness to Crocking, Rotary Vertical
Minimum performance specifications for such fabrics should
Crockmeter Method
be as agreed between the purchaser and the seller.
AATCC 124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width
Repeated Home Launderings
directions for those factors where each fabric direction is
AATCC 132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
pertinent.
AATCC 135 Dimensional Change in Automatic Home
1.4 The following precautionary statement pertains only to
Laundering of Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics
the test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. This
Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,
Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining
if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user
Evaluation Procedure 3 Chromatic Transference Scale
of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health
2.3 Federal Standard:
practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-
16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-
tions prior to use.
tiles
2. Referenced Documents
NOTE 1—The specific dated editions of ASTM test methods that prevail
2.1 ASTM Standards:
in this standard are referenced in Section 7 on Test Methods.
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3. Terminology
D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
Apparel Fabrics 3.1 Definitions:
D 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens 3.1.1 career apparel, n—garments which are manufactured
for Textiles for a variety of end uses and for which performance require-
D 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength of ments vary.
Knitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics—Diaphragm 3.1.1.1 Discussion—The two major end uses for career
Bursting Strength Tester Method apparel are dress apparel and vocational apparel.
D 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Knitted 3.1.2 career apparel, dress, n—a category of tailored uni-
Goods—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst form in which abusive wear is not common and in which
Test appearance is much more important than durability (see also
D 3887 Specification for Tolerances for Knitted Fabric career apparel, vocational career apparel).
3.1.3 career apparel, vocational, n—a type of garment worn
as a uniform in which abusive wear is common and durability
is generally more important than appearance (see also career
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on
Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.56 on Performance
apparel, dress career apparel).
Standards for Textile Fabrics.
Current edition approved May 15, 1995. Published July 1995. Originally
published as D 3995 – 81. Last previous edition D 3995 – 92.
2 4
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01. Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, N.C. 27709.
Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,
Washington, DC 20402.
Copyright © ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 3995
3.1.4 dimensional change in pressing and finishing, n—the 5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall
change in dimensions undergone by a fabric subjected to specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 3995
pressing and finishing during garment manufacturing. except for the following characteristic(s).”
3.1.5 For definitions of other terms used in this specifica- 5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached
tion, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC test methods between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of contro-
and Terminology D 123. versy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used
3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard: as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands
3.2.1 pressing and finishing, n—this term takes into account dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style
a variety of industrial pressing and finishing treatments used in of fabric.
garment manufacturing. 5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and test
methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the
NOTE 2—No standard method is available for reproducing on a labo-
specified test methods.
ratory level the results of industrial press or finishing treatments, or both,
used in the manufacture of knitted apparel garments.
6. Sampling
4. Specification Requirements
6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach the
consumer. Any “partially finished” or “post-finished” fabrics or
4.1 The properties of knitted fabric for men’s and women’s
career apparel shall conform to the specification requirement in those which will be pleated, creased, steamed, or pressed
during manufacturing should be processed in accordance with
Table 1.
the fabric manufacturer’s instructions before tests are made.
5. Significance and Use
6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in an
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the applicable material specification, take the number of specimens
seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the directed in each of the applicable test methods.
requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification. 6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the test
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics method does not specify the number of specimens, use the
the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may procedures in Practice D 2905 to determine the number of
find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the specimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % prob-
requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the ability level that the test result is no more than 5 % of the
requirements listed in Table 1 may be modifed by mutual average above or below the lot average (that is, the average that
agreement between the purchaser and the seller. would be obtained by applying this method to the entire lot)
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—The classes of colorfastness and DP rating are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle
to 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.
Requirements
Characteristics Section
Career Dress Apparel Career Vocational Apparel
Bursting strength (ball burst) 60 lbf (267 N) min 60 lbf (267 N) min 7.1
Dimensional stability (each direction):
Pressing and finishing 2 % max shrinkage, 0 % growth 2 % max shrink, 0 % growth 7.2.1
After 5 washes 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2
After 3 drycleanings 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.4
Fabric smoothness Class 4, DP, min Class 3, DP, mi
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