ASTM D7020-22

Standard Performance Specification for Woven Blouse, Dress, Dress Shirt & Sport Shirt Fabrics

ABSTRACT
This performance specification covers fabrics for woven blouses, dresses, dress shirts, and sport shirts. It is not however applicable to woven fabrics used for interlinings. These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent. The fabrics shall meet the following performance requirements: breaking strength which shall be determined using a constant rate of extension tensile testing machine; resistance to yarn slippage; tearing strength; dimensional change during pressing and finishing, after laundering, or after dry cleaning; colorfastness to laundering and dry cleaning; shade change due to sodium hypochlorite bleaching or non-chlorine bleaching, burnt gas fumes, dry and wet crocking, perspiration, and xenon-arc light; fabric smoothness after pressing, laundering, and dry cleaning; and flammability.
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
4.1 Fabrics intended for this end-use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1.  (A) There is more than one method that can be used to measure breaking strength, tearing strength and colorfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since there may be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2 and Note 3).(B) See Note 5.  
4.2 It should be recognized that fabrics can be produced utilizing an almost infinite number of combinations of construction variables (e.g., type of fibers, percentage of fibers, yarn twist, yarn number, warp and pick count, chemical and mechanical finishes). Additionally, fashion or aesthetics dictate that the ultimate consumer may find acceptable articles made from fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1.  
4.2.1 Hence, no single performance specification can possibly apply to all the various fabrics that could be utilized for this end-use.  
4.3 The uses and significance of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test methods.
SCOPE
1.1 This performance specification covers fabrics for woven blouses, dresses, dress shirts, and sport shirts.  
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to woven fabrics used for interlinings.  
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.  
1.4 When a fabric requires special treatment, specific methods will be described as they are developed for that material, and such special tests will have precedence over these general requirements.  
1.5 The following precautionary caveat pertains only to the test methods described in this performance specification. This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 31-Oct-2022
• ICS: 61.020 - Clothes
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.61 - Apparel

Relations

• Refers: ASTM D2261-13(2024) - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)
• Effective Date: 01-Jan-2024
• Refers: ASTM D2261-13(2017)e1 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)
• Effective Date: 15-Jul-2017
• Refers: ASTM D2261-13(2017) - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)
• Effective Date: 15-Jul-2017
• Refers: ASTM D123-17 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Mar-2017
• Refers: ASTM D123-15b - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Apr-2015
• Refers: ASTM D7022-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel
• Effective Date: 01-Oct-2013
• Refers: ASTM D7022-13e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Apparel
• Effective Date: 01-Oct-2013
• Refers: ASTM D1424-09(2013) - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2013
• Refers: ASTM D1424-09(2013)e1 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13ae1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-May-2013
• Refers: ASTM D2261-13 - Standard Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile Testing Machine)
• Effective Date: 01-Jan-2013

Overview

ASTM D7020-22: Standard Performance Specification for Woven Blouse, Dress, Dress Shirt & Sport Shirt Fabrics provides criteria for evaluating the physical and colorfastness properties of woven fabrics intended for use in blouses, dresses, dress shirts, and sport shirts. This standard ensures fabrics meet rigorous requirements for durability, appearance, and safety, supporting manufacturers, retailers, and brands in the apparel sector. Notably, ASTM D7020-22 does not apply to woven fabrics used as interlinings.

Key Topics

• Fabric Performance Requirements: The specification outlines minimum performance levels for properties such as breaking strength, tearing strength, resistance to yarn slippage, and dimensional stability.
• Direction of Testing: Tests must be conducted in both the length and width directions for properties that are influenced by fabric orientation.
• Colorfastness: Fabrics are tested for resistance to color change and staining from laundering, dry cleaning, bleaching, crocking (rubbing), perspiration, burnt gas fumes, and light exposure (xenon-arc).
• Smoothness and Appearance: Requirements for the maintenance of fabric smoothness after laundering, dry cleaning, and pressing are included.
• Flammability: Fabrics must comply with federal flammability requirements (16 CFR 1610).
• Testing Methods: The specification references established ASTM and AATCC test methods to ensure consistency and comparability in results.

Applications

ASTM D7020-22 is instrumental for:

• Textile Manufacturers: Assisting in the selection and production of woven fabrics that comply with performance and safety benchmarks for blouse, dress, dress shirt, and sport shirt applications.
• Quality Control Laboratories: Providing standardized test methods to evaluate fabric properties before garment manufacturing, ensuring that only compliant materials proceed to market.
• Apparel Brands and Retailers: Enabling confident sourcing of woven fabrics with verified durability, dimensional stability, and colorfastness, leading to enhanced end-user satisfaction and brand reputation.
• Regulatory Compliance: Assisting stakeholders in meeting legal requirements for textile product safety, particularly concerning flammability.
• Product Development: Serving as a guideline for developing new woven textiles with improved performance characteristics tailored to fashion and functional demands.

Related Standards

Several other standards are referenced or are relevant when working with ASTM D7020-22:

• ASTM D123: Terminology Relating to Textiles
• ASTM D5034: Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation (Grab Test)
• ASTM D1424: Test Method for Tearing Strength (Elmendorf)
• ASTM D2261: Test Method for Tearing Strength (Tongue Tear)
• AATCC 8, 15, 16, 23, 61, 116, 124, 132, 135, 158, 172, 188: A suite of standards addressing colorfastness and dimensional change
• 16 CFR 1610: Flammability standards under the Flammable Fabrics Act

Keywords: woven fabrics standard, blouse fabric specification, dress shirt textile requirements, sport shirt performance, ASTM D7020, fabric colorfastness, textile flammability, apparel fabric durability, AATCC test methods, breaking strength, dimensional stability, fabric appearance.

By applying ASTM D7020-22, stakeholders throughout the apparel supply chain can ensure product quality, safety, and consumer satisfaction, while supporting efficient market access through globally recognized benchmarking.

Standards Content (Sample)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation:D7020 −22
Standard Performance Specification for
Woven Blouse, Dress, Dress Shirt & Sport Shirt Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D7020; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by
Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
1.1 This performance specification covers fabrics for woven
D2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the
blouses, dresses, dress shirts, and sport shirts.
Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to
Extension Tensile Testing Machine)
woven fabrics used for interlinings.
D5034 TestMethodforBreakingStrengthandElongationof
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
D7022 Terminology Relating toApparel (Withdrawn 2022)
directions for those properties where fabric direction is perti-
nent. 2.2 AATCC Methods:
TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: Crockmeter
1.4 When a fabric requires special treatment, specific meth-
TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
ods will be described as they are developed for that material,
TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light
and such special tests will have precedence over these general
TM23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
requirements.
TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering:, Accelerated
1.5 The following precautionary caveat pertains only to the
TM116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crock-
test methods described in this performance specification. This
meter
standarddoesnotpurporttoaddressallofthesafetyconcerns,
TM124 Appearance of Fabrics After Home Laundering
ifany,associatedwithitsuse.Itistheresponsibilityoftheuser
TM132 Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning
of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and
TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laun-
environmental practices and determine the applicability of
dering
regulatory limitations prior to use.
TM158 Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloro-
1.6 This international standard was developed in accor-
ethylene: Machine
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Home Laundering
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
Home Laundering
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2.3 Federal Standards:
16 CFR 1610 Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations
2. Referenced Documents (See Note 1)
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this standard give only the
2.1 ASTM Standards:
permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC or other test
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
methods. The current edition of each test method cited shall prevail.
D434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in
Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn
3. Terminology
2003)
3.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification,
refer to theTerminologies D123 and D7022. For terms relating
to chemical and colorfastness testing refer to specific AATCC
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on
methods.
Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved Nov. 1, 2022. Published December 2022. Originally
3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms are
approved in 2005. Last previous edition approved 2014 as D7020-14. DOI:
suitable for terms found in this specification.
10.1520/D7020-22.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O.
the ASTM website. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
3 5
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,
www.astm.org. Washington, DC 20402.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D7020−22
Consequently, these two breaking force testers can not be used inter-
4. Significance and Use
changeably.Incaseofcontroversy,theCREmethod(TestMethodD5034)
4.1 Fabrics intended for this end-use should meet all of the
shall prevail.
requirements listed in Table 1.
5.2 Resistance to Yarn Slippage—Determine the resistance
4.2 It should be recognized that fabrics can be produced
to yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.
utilizing an almost infinite number of combinations of con-
5.3 Tearing Strength—Determine the tearing strength as
struction variables (e.g., type of fibers, percentage of fibers,
directed in Test Method D1424.
yarn twist, yarn number, warp and pick count, chemical and
mechanical finishes).Additionally, fashion or aesthetics dictate NOTE 3—If preferred, use of Test Method D2261 is permitted with
existing requirements as given in this standard. There may be no overall
that the ultimate consumer may find acceptable articles made
correlation between the results obtained with the tongue tear method (Test
from fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in
MethodD2261)andtheElmendorfmachine(D1424).Consequently,these
Table 1.
twoteartesterscannotbeusedinterchangeably.Inthecaseofcontroversy,
4.2.1 Hence, no single performance specification can possi-
Test Method D1424 shall prevail.
blyapplytoallthevariousfabricsthatcouldbeutilizedforthis
5.4 Dimensional Change:
end-use.
5.4.1 Pressing and Finishing Dur
...

This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation: D7020 − 14 D7020 − 22
Standard Performance Specification for
Woven Blouse, Dress, Dress Shirt & Sport Shirt Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D7020; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This performance specification covers fabrics for woven blouses, dresses, dress shirts, and sport shirts.
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to woven fabrics used for interlinings.
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.
1.4 When a fabric requires special treatment, specific methods will be described as they are developed for that material, and such
special tests will have precedence over these general requirements.
1.5 The following precautionary caveat pertains only to the test methods described in this performance specification:specifi-
cation. This standard may involve hazardous materials, operations, and equipment. This standard does not purport to address all
of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate
safety and health practices,safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations
prior to use.
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization
established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued
by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
2. Referenced Documents (See Note 1)
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam (Withdrawn 2003)
D1424 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by Falling-Pendulum (Elmendorf-Type) Apparatus
D2261 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Fabrics by the Tongue (Single Rip) Procedure (Constant-Rate-of-Extension Tensile
Testing Machine)
D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
D7022 Terminology Relating to Apparel (Withdrawn 2022)
2.2 AATCC Methods:
8TM8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
15TM15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2014Nov. 1, 2022. Published March 2014December 2022. Originally approved in 2005. Last previous edition approved 20122014 as
D7020-05(2012).D7020-14. DOI: 10.1520/D7020-14.10.1520/D7020-22.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on www.astm.org.
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D7020 − 22
16TM16.3 Colorfastness to Light
23TM23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
61TM61 Colorfastness to Laundering, Home and Commercial: Laundering:, Accelerated
116TM116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method
124TM124 Appearance of Fabrics After Repeated Home LaunderingsLaundering
132TM132 Colorfastness to Dry Cleaning
135TM135 Dimensional Changes of Fabrics after Home Laundering
158TM158 Dimensional Changes on Drycleaning in Perchloroethylene: Machine Method
172TM172 Colorfastness to Powdered Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
188TM188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering
2.3 Federal Standards:
16 CFR 1610 Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this standard give only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC or other test methods. The current
edition of each test method cited shall prevail.
3. Terminology
3.1 For definitions of textile terms used in this specification, refer to the Terminologies D123 and D7022. For terms relating to
chemical and colorfastness testing refer to specific AATCC methods.
3.2 Definitions found in a dictionary of common terms are suitable for terms found in this specification.
4. Significance and Use
4.1 Fabrics intended for this end-use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1.
4.2 It should be recognized that fabrics can be produced utilizing an almost infinite number of combinations of construction
variables (e.g., type of fibers, percentage of fibers, yarn twist, yarn number, warp and pick count, chemical and mechanical
finishes). Additionally, fashion or aesthetics dictate that the ultimate consumer may find acceptable articles made from fabrics that
do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1.
4.2.1 Hence, no single performance specification can possibly apply to all the various fabrics that could be utilized for this
end-use.
4.3 The uses and significance of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified
test methods.
5. Test Methods (see Note 1)
5.1 Breaking Strength—Determine the breaking strength as directed in Test Method D5034, using a constant rate of extension
(CRE) tensile testing machine.
NOTE 2—If preferred, the use of a constant rate of traverse (CRT) tensile testing machine is permitted. There may be no overall correlation between the
results obtained with the CRT machine and the CRE machine. Consequently, these two breaking force testers can not be used interchangeably. In case
of controversy, the CRE method (Test Method D5034) shall prevail.
5.2 Resistance to Yarn Slippage—Determine the resistance to yarn slippage as directed in Test Method D434.
5.3 Tearing Strength—Determine the tearing strength as directed in Test Method D1424.
NOTE 3—If preferred, use of Test Method D2261 is permitted with existing requirements as given in this standard. There may be no overall correlation
between the results obtained with the tong
...