EN 893:2010
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons preventing the user from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Steigeisen fest, die vom Benutzer gegen Abrutschen beim Bergsteigen in Firn und Eis einschließlich Klettern in gemischtem Gelände verwendet werden.
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
La présente Norme européenne fixe les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d'essai relatives aux crampons utilisés dans la pratique de l'alpinisme et de l'escalade sur neige et sur glace, ainsi qu'en terrain mixte, afin d’empêcher l’utilisateur de glisser.
Gorniška oprema - Dereze - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za dereze, ki uporabniku preprečujejo zdrs, kadar se uporabljajo pri gorništvu po snegu in ledu, vključno s plezanjem po mešanem terenu.
General Information
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Standards Content (Sample)
SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-januar-2011
1DGRPHãþD
SIST EN 893:2000
Gorniška oprema - Dereze - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes
d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 893:2010
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.
EUROPEAN STANDARD
EN 893
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
November 2010
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 893:1999
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Crampons - Safety requirements
and test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Crampons - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Steigeisen - Sicherheitstechnische
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 9 October 2010.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European
Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national
standards may be obtained on application to the CEN Management Centre or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation
under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as the
official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland,
Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels
© 2010 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 893:2010: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.
Contents Page
Foreword .3
Introduction .4
1 Scope .5
2 Normative references .5
3 Terms and definitions .5
4 Safety requirements .8
4.1 Shape and design .8
4.2 Prevention against slippage .8
4.3 Strength .8
4.3.1 Hardness .8
4.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes .8
4.3.3 Transverse strength of bails of clip-on bindings .9
4.3.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails .9
4.3.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding .9
4.3.6 Longitudinal strength of the frame .9
5 Test methods .9
5.1 Test samples .9
5.2 Test conditions .9
5.3 Apparatus . 10
5.4 Test procedure . 11
5.4.1 Shape, design and hardness . 11
5.4.2 Prevention against slippage . 11
5.4.3 Bending strength test on spikes . 12
5.4.4 Transverse strength test on bails . 13
5.4.5 Strength test of binding parts other than bails . 14
5.4.6 Strength test of binding closures . 16
5.4.7 Strength test of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding . 16
5.4.8 Longitudinal strength test of the frame . 16
6 Marking . 18
7 Information supplied by the manufacturer . 18
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 19
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential
Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 20
Foreword
This document (EN 893:2010) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground
and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical
text or by endorsement, at the latest by May 2011, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the
latest by May 2011.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent
rights. CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document supersedes EN 893:1999.
This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the
European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.
For relationship with EU Directive 89/686/EEC, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this
document.
According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following
countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech
Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia,
Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain,
Sweden, Switzerland and the United Kingdom.
Introduction
The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard S (Union Internationale des
Associations d'Alpinisme / International mountaineering and climbing federation), which has been developed
with international participation.
This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
1 Scope
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for crampons preventing the user
from slipping when used in mountaineering on snow and ice including climbing mixed terrain.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated
references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced
document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 565, Mountaineering equipment — Tape — Safety requirements and test methods
EN ISO 6508-1, Metallic materials — Rockwell hardness test — Part 1: Test method (scales A, B, C, D, E, F,
G, H, K, N, T) (ISO 6508-1:2005)
ISO 9523, Touring ski-boots for adults — Interface with touring ski-binding — Requirements and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply (see also Figure 1).
3.1
crampon
device fitted with spikes, which is intended to cover the sole of a boot, from toe to heel and from one side to
the other, so as to provide grip on snow, ice and mixed terrain and which has a system of attachment to the
boot
3.2
frame
part or parts of the crampon which bears the spikes
3.3
front spike
forward pointing spike intended for use when climbing steep terrain
3.4
downward spike
spike usually, but not necessarily, pointing vertically downward
3.5
binding
system of attachment to the boot
3.6
clip-on binding
particular binding which uses a lever mechanism for rapid attachment of a crampon to a boot
3.7
bail
stirrup-shaped part or parts of a binding used to connect the crampon to the toe and/or to the heel of the boot
3.8
attachment rings or eyes
rings or eyes which are threaded by a part of the binding when fitted in accordance with the manufacturer's
instruction
3.9
adjustment system
system for adjusting the crampon to fit the boot
3.10
retaining system
system which prevents the climber from losing the crampon if the binding fails
3.11
spur
other spike than front spikes and downward spikes
NOTE The numbers in this figure refer to the corresponding terms defined in Clause 3.
Figure 1 — Parts of a crampon
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Shape and design
4.1.1 Each crampon shall have a system of attachment to the boot.
4.1.2 Each crampon shall have at least eight spikes, not including spurs.
4.1.3 Each crampon shall have at least six downward spikes, which:
a) shall be at least 20 mm long (see Figure 2) and not necessarily all the same length;
b) when walking normally on flat and smooth ice, shall contact the surface of the ice, but not necessarily at
the same time; and
c) shall be shaped such that when loaded with one person's weight whilst walking on smooth ice, the
downward spikes will "bite" into the ice such as to prevent slipping.
Dimensions in millimetres
Figure 2 — Length of spikes
4.1.4 All edges with which the user's hands can come into contact shall be free from burrs.
4.1.5 If the crampon has a clip-on binding it shall be fitted with a retaining system.
4.2 Prevention against slippage
When tested according to 5.4.2, the crampons shall not slip on the ice more than 10 mm in each direction.
4.3 Strength
4.3.1 Hardness
Each part of the crampon, which contains a spike or spikes, shall have a hardness of at least 70 HRB.
Testing according to 5.4.1.3.
4.3.2 Bending and breaking strength of spikes
When tested according to 5.4.3, the maximum deformation under load and the permanent deformation after
removing the load, measured at the point of application, shall not be more than shown in Table 1. The
breaking strength shall be at least as shown in Table 1.
Spurs shall be tested with a load applied in each intended direction.
Table 1 — Strength of spikes
Types of spikes Applied force Deformation Permanent Minimum
under load deformation breaking strength
N mm mm N
Downward spikes 900 ± 20 15 7 1 200
Front spikes 1 200 ± 30 15 7 1 500
(if more than one)
and spur
Single front spike 1 600 ± 40 15 7 2 000
(mono-spike)
4.3.3 Transverse strength of bails of clip-on bindings
When tested in the operating position and according to 5.4.4, the bails of clip-on bindings shall not break and
shall not come out of the frame of the crampon. Permanent deformation is acceptable.
If the crampon is directly attached or integrated into a boot the transverse strength requirements are not
applicable.
4.3.4 Strength of binding parts other than bails
When tested according to 5.4.5, each part shall not break.
4.3.5 Strength of attachment rings and eyes and of the appropriate part of the binding
When tested according to 5.4.7, attachment rings and eyes and the appropriate part of the binding shall not
break.
If the crampon is directly attached or integrated into a boot the strength requirements are not applicable.
4.3.6 Longitu
...
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