EN 15151-1:2012
(Main)Mountaineering equipment - Braking devices - Part 1: Braking devices with manually assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods
Mountaineering equipment - Braking devices - Part 1: Braking devices with manually assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for braking devices with manually assisted locking used in mountaineering, climbing and related activities for belaying, with manually assisted locking function, to protect against falls from a height and/or for abseiling with speed regulation.
This European Standard applies to braking devices which are loaded with one person and which use mountaineering ropes according to EN 892. In case of abseiling and lowering down, this standard also applies to braking devices, used with low stretch kernmantel ropes according to EN 1891. It does not apply to manual braking devices which are addressed in EN 15151-2:2012, nor to fully automatic fixed installations.
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Bremsgeräte - Teil 1: Bremsgeräte mit manuell unterstützter Verriegelung, sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Bremsgeräte mit manuell unterstützter Verriegelung zum Sichern beim Bergsteigen, Klettern und ähnlichen Tätigkeiten fest, um vor einem Absturz aus der Höhe zu schützen und/oder zum Abseilen mit Geschwindigkeitsregelung.
Diese Europäische Norm gilt für Bremsgeräte, die von einer Person benutzt werden und bei denen dynamische Bergseile nach EN 892 verwendet werden. Beim Abseilen und Ablassen gilt diese Norm auch für Bremsgeräte, die mit Kernmantelseilen mit geringer Dehnung nach EN 1891 genutzt werden. Sie gilt weder für Bremsgeräte, die in EN 15151-2:2012 behandelt werden, noch für vollautomatische, ortsfeste Einrichtungen.
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Dispositifs de freinage - Partie 1: Dispositifs de freinage avec blocage assisté de la main, exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
La présente Norme européenne spécifie les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d’essai applicables aux
dispositifs de freinage avec blocage assisté de la main utilisés pour l’assurage en alpinisme, en escalade et
activités connexes, pour protéger contre les risques de chute de hauteur et/ou pour contrôler la vitesse en
descente en rappel.
La présente Norme européenne s’applique aux dispositifs de freinage utilisés par une seule personne et avec
des cordes d’alpinisme conformément à l’EN 892. En cas de descente en rappel ou de descente par une
tierce personne, cette norme s’applique également aux dispositifs de freinage utilisés avec des cordes
tressées gainées à faible coefficient d’allongement conformément à l’EN 1891. Elle ne s’applique pas aux
dispositifs de freinage manuels, qui sont traités dans l’EN 15151-2:2012, ni aux installations automatiques
fixes.
Gorniška oprema - Naprave za zaviranje - 1. del: Polavtomatske naprave za zaviranje, varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Ta evropski standard določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za polavtomatske naprave za zaviranje, ki se uporabljajo v gorništvu, pri plezanju in s tem povezanih dejavnostih navijanja vrvi, s polavtomatsko funkcijo za zaščito pred padci z višine in/ali za spuščanje po vrvi z uravnavanjem hitrosti. Ta evropski standard se nanaša na naprave za zaviranje, ki so obremenjene z eno osebo in uporabljajo gorniške vrvi v skladu s standardom EN 892. V primeru spuščanja z vrvjo se ta standard nanaša tudi na naprave za zaviranje, ki se uporabljajo z oplaščenimi statičnimi vrvmi v skladu s standardom EN 1891. Ne nanaša se na naprave za ročno zaviranje, obravnavane v standardu EN 15151-2:2012, ali na avtomatske pričvrščene naprave.
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Gorniška oprema - Naprave za zaviranje - 1. del: Polavtomatske naprave za zaviranje, varnostne zahteve in preskusne metodeBergsteigerausrüstung - Bremsgeräte - Teil 1: Bremsgeräte mit Halbautomatik, sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und PrüfverfahrenEquipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Dispositifs de freinage - Partie 1: Dispositifs de freinage semi-automatiques, exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essaiMountaineering equipment - Braking devices - Part 1: Braking devices with assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods97.220.40Oprema za športe na prostem in vodne športeOutdoor and water sports equipmentICS:Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z:EN 15151-1:2012SIST EN 15151-1:2012en,de01-oktober-2012SIST EN 15151-1:2012SLOVENSKI
STANDARD
EUROPEAN STANDARD NORME EUROPÉENNE EUROPÄISCHE NORM
EN 15151-1
August 2012 ICS 97.220.40 English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Braking devices - Part 1: Braking devices with manually assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Dispositifs de freinage - Partie 1: Freins d'assurage avec blocage assisté de la main, exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Bremsgeräte - Teil 1: Bremsgeräte mit manuell unterstützter Verriegelung, sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren This European Standard was approved by CEN on 30 June 2012.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has the same status as the official versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre:
Avenue Marnix 17,
B-1000 Brussels © 2012 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved worldwide for CEN national Members. Ref. No. EN 15151-1:2012: ESIST EN 15151-1:2012
Contents Page Foreword .31 Scope .42 Normative references .43 Terms and definitions .44 Classification .54.1 General .54.2 Braking device with manually assisted locking .55 Safety requirements .65.1 General .65.2 Blocking load .75.3 Static strength .75.4 Dynamic performance when belaying .76 Test methods .86.1 General .86.2 Test conditions .86.3 Sampling .86.4 Design .86.5 Blocking load .86.5.1 Apparatus .86.5.2 Procedure .96.6 Static strength . 106.6.1 Apparatus . 106.6.2 Procedure . 116.7 Dynamic performance when belaying . 116.7.1 Apparatus . 116.7.2 Procedure . 127 Marking . 138 Information supplied by the manufacturer . 13Annex A (informative)
Standards on mountaineering equipment . 15Annex ZA (informative)
Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential Requirements
of EU Directive 89/686/EEC . 16Bibliography . 17
3 Foreword This document (EN 15151-1:2012) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by February 2013, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by February 2013. Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of patent rights. CEN [and/or CENELEC] shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the European Free Trade Association, and supports essential requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC. For relationship with EU Directive(s), see informative Annex ZA which is an integral part of this document. This European Standard, EN 15151 "Mountaineering equipment - Braking devices", consists of: Part 1: Braking devices with assisted locking, safety requirements and test methods; Part 2: Manual braking devices, safety requirements and test methods. This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment (see Annex A). According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and the United Kingdom.
1 Scope This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for braking devices with manually assisted locking used in mountaineering, climbing and related activities for belaying, with manually assisted locking function, to protect against falls from a height and/or for abseiling with speed regulation. This European Standard applies to braking devices which are loaded with one person and which use mountaineering ropes according to EN 892. In case of abseiling and lowering down, this standard also applies to braking devices, used with low stretch kernmantel ropes according to EN 1891. It does not apply to manual braking devices which are addressed in EN 15151-2:2012, nor to fully automatic fixed installations. 2 Normative references The following documents, in whole or in part, are normatively referenced in this document and are indispensable for its application. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 892, Mountaineering equipment — Dynamic mountaineering ropes — Safety requirements and test methods EN 1891, Personal protective equipment for the prevention of falls from a height — Low stretch kernmantel ropes EN 15151-2:2012, Mountaineering equipment — Braking devices — Part 2: Manual braking devices, safety requirements and test methods
EN ISO 139:2005, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139:2005) 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 braking device mechanical device, which generates forces on the rope to oppose movement of the rope through the device 3.2 braking device with manually assisted locking braking device, that produces a change in its geometry once a certain hand braking force is applied to the free end of the rope, such that the hand braking force is amplified to slow down the rope movement through the device until arrest
3.3 panic locking element integral part of the braking device, which stops the rope moving through the device when abseiling or lowering a body, whereby it may prevent uncontrolled rope movement resulting from user operation beyond the control parameters 3.4 attachment point part of the braking device, which is required and intended for the attachment of a connector to connect the user according to the information supplied by the manufacturer
Note 1 to entry: For information on connectors, see EN 12275 or EN 362. SIST EN 15151-1:2012
5 4 Classification 4.1 General Figure 1 gives the classification of braking devices used in mountaineering, climbing and related activities. Braking devices with manually assisted locking are classified according to 4.2. Manual braking devices are defined in EN 15151-2:2012, 4.2.
Key A abseiling B belaying Figure 1 — Classification of braking devices 4.2 Braking device with manually assisted locking 4.2.1 Type 5: devices for abseiling without a panic locking element; 4.2.2 Type 6: devices for belaying and abseiling without a panic locking element; 4.2.3 Type 7: devices for abseiling with a panic locking element; 4.2.4 Type 8: devices for belaying and abseiling with a panic locking element. SIST EN 15151-1:2012
5 Safety requirements 5.1 General 5.1.1 An overview of the requirements related to the various types of braking device with manually assisted locking is given in Table 1. Requirements for manual braking devices are given in EN 15151-2. Table 1 — Overview of requirements related to various types of braking devices with manually assisted locking Clause Requirements Rope diameter/ rope type Type5 Type6 Type7 Type 8 5.1 General — x x x x 5.2 Blocking load Minimum/maximum
EN 892 and/or EN 1891 x x x x 5.3 Static strength Minimum/maximum EN 892 x x x x 5.4 Dynamic performance when belaying Minimum/maximum EN 892 — x — x
5.1.2 The attachment point or points shall be capable of accommodating a bar of a diameter of ()1,0013+ mm. The edges of all openings shall be as shown in Figure 2. Dimensions in millimetres
a) bevelled edges b) rounded edges Figure 2 — Edges of openings SIST EN 15151-1:2012
7 5.1.3 Braking devices shall not have any sharp or rough edges that may cut, abrade or otherwise damage ropes or cause injury to the user. 5.1.4 When in use as described in the information supplied by the manufacturer, it shall not be possible to detach the rope from the device without at least two consecutive deliberate manual actions.
5.1.5 Braking devices shall be designed to operate with ropes in the diameter range as specified in the information supplied by the manufacturer. 5.2 Blocking load This requirement shall apply to braking devices types 5 to 8. When tested in accordance with 6.5, the test shall be carried out with ropes of the minimum diameter of each type of rope specified in the manufacturer's instructions for use. The braking device shall be blocked in a hands-free position and loaded with a force of ()1,002+ kN, and shall sustain the load for ()5,001+ min with a maximum slippage of 300 mm of the rope through the braking device. After these tests, there shall be no damage to the braking device or to the rope. Check by visual examination. The test
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