ASTM D4154-95a

Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Boys' Knitted and Woven Beachwear and Sports Shirt Fabrics

SCOPE
1.1 This performance specification covers knitted and woven fabrics comprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers used in men's and boy's beachwear and sports shirts.  
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to knitted and woven fabrics used for interlining and swimwear.  
1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and width directions for those properties where fabric direction is pertinent.
1.4  This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

General Information

• Status: Historical
• Publication Date: 09-May-2001
• ICS: 61.020 - Clothes
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.61 - Apparel

Relations

• Replaced By: ASTM D4154-01 - Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Boys' Knitted and Woven Beachwear and Sports Shirt Fabrics
• Effective Date: 10-May-2001
• Referred By: ASTM D6321/D6321M-22 - Standard Practice for the Evaluation of Machine Washable T-Shirts
• Effective Date: 10-May-2001
• Referred By: ASTM D4231-22 - Standard Practice for Evaluation of Launderable Woven Dress Shirts and Sports Shirts
• Effective Date: 10-May-2001

Standards Content (Sample)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information.
Designation: D 4154 – 95a
Standard Performance Specification for
Men’s and Boys’ Knitted and Woven Beachwear and Sports
Shirt Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4154; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D 5034 Test Method for Breaking Force and Elongation of
Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
1.1 This performance specification covers knitted and wo-
2.2 AATCC Test Methods:
ven fabrics comprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers
8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
used in men’s and boy’s beachwear and sports shirts.
15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to
16 Colorfastness to Light
knitted and woven fabrics used for interlining and swimwear.
23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
1.3 These requirements apply to both the length and width
61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,
directions for those properties where fabric direction is perti-
Commercial: Accelerated
nent.
96 Dimensional Changes in Laundering of Woven and
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
Knitted Textiles Except Wool
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
Method
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After Repeated
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
Home Launderings
2. Referenced Documents 132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Launderings
2.1 ASTM Standards:
of Durable Press Woven of Knit Fabrics
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
D 434 Test Method for Resistance to Slippage of Yarns in
Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining
Woven Fabrics Using a Standard Seam
Evaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic Transference
D 1424 Test Method for Tear Resistance of Woven Fabrics
Scale
by Falling Pendulum (Elmendorf) Apparatus
2.3 Federal Standard:
D 2262 Test Method for Tearing Strength of Woven Fabrics
16 CFR, Chapter II—Consumer Product Safety Commis-
by the Tongue (Single Rip) Method (Constant Rate-of-
sion Subchapter D—Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations.
Traverse Tensile Testing Machine)
2.4 Military Standard:
D 2594 Test Methods for Stretch Properties of Knitted
MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-
Fabrics Having Low Power
spection by Attributes
D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
Apparel Fabrics
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this specification give only the
D 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens
permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test
methods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
for Textiles
D 3786 Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength of
3. Terminology
Knitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics—Diaphragm
3.1 Definitions:
Bursting Strength Tester Method
3.1.1 dimensional change, n—in pressing and finishing of
D 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Knitted
textiles, the change in dimensions of a fabric caused by
Goods—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst
pressing and finishing during garment manufacture.
Test
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on
Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.56 on Performance AATCC Technical Manual, available from the American Association of Textile
Standards for Textile Fabrics. Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
Current edition approved Dec. 10, 1995. Published May 1996. Originally Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,
published as D 4154 – 82. Last previous edition D 4154 – 95. Washington, DC 20402.
2 6
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.01. Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02. Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
Copyright © ASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 4154
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—Class for colorfastness and DP rating is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle to 1 for
very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle. The numerical rating in Table 1 or a higher numerical rating is acceptable.
Requirements
Characteristic Section
Knitted Woven
Breaking strength (load) (CRT) . 111 N (25 lbf), min 7.1
Bursting strength (load) (ball burst) 222 N (50 lbf) . 7.2
Yarn slippage, 6-mm ( ⁄4-in.) separation . 89 N (20 lbf), min 7.3
Tongue tear strength . 6.7 N (1.5 lbf), min 7.4
Dimensional Change:
Pressing and finishing 2 % max 1 % max, pre-finished fabrics 7.5.1
After five launderings (see 7.5.2.2 if shrinkage exceeds 3 %) 3 % max 2 % max, post-finished fabrics 7.5.2
After three dry cleanings 3 % max 3 % max 7.5.3
Growth 3 % max 3 % max 7.5.4
Colorfastness:
Burnt Gas Fumes—2 Cycles:
A A
Shade change, original fabric Class 4 min Class 4 min 7.6.1
A A
Shade change after 1 laundering or 1 dry cleaning Class 4 min Class 4 min
Laundering:
A A
Shade change Class 4 min Class 4 min 7.6.2
B B
Staining Class 3 min Class 3 min
Dry cleaning:
A A
Shade change Class 4 min Class 4 min 7.6.3
Crocking:
C C
Dry Class 4 min Class 4 min 7.6.4
C C
Wet Class 3 min Class 3 min
Perspiration:
A A
Shade Change Class 4 min Class 4 min 7.6.5
B B
Staining Class 3 min Class 3 min
A A
Light (40 AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4 min Step 4 min 7.6.6
D D
Fabric appearance (see 7.7.1.1) DP 3.5 min DP 3.5 min 7.7
Flammability pass pass 7.8
A
AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.
B
AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.
C
AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.
D
For durable-press fabrics only.
specification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC test may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the
methods and to Terminology D 123. requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the
3.3 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard: requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual
3.3.1 pressing and finishing—This term takes into account agreement between the purchaser and the supplier.
all of the industrial pressing and finishing treatments used in 5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall
garment production. specify that: This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4154
except for the following characteristic(s).”
NOTE 2—No standard method is available for reproducing on a labo-
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached
ratory level the results of industrial pressing or finishing treatments used
between the purchaser and the supplier, and in case of
in the manufacture of garments.
controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to
3.4 Definitions of terms used in a dictionary of common
be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer
terms are suitable for terms used in this performance specifi-
demands dictate varying performance parameters for any
cation.
particular style of fabric.
5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and
4. Specification Requirements
test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the
4.1 The properties of fabrics of woven and knitted fabrics
specified test methods.
for mens’s and boy’s beachwear and sport shirts shall conform
6. Sampling
to the specification requirements in Table 1.
6.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing,
5. Significance and Use
take at random the number of rolls as directed in an applicable
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the
specification or other agreement between the purchaser and the
supplier, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the
supplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.
requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
6.2 Laboratory Sample—From each roll or piece in the lot
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthet-
sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric
ics, the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics
and at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage.
7. Test Method (see Note 1)
7.1 Breaking Force (Woven Fabric Only)—Determine the
The development of a standard method has been refe
...