ASTM D3990-12(2016)

Standard Terminology Relating to Fabric Defects

SCOPE
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related material are given under the most frequently used terms; synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.

General Information

• Status: Historical
• Publication Date: 30-Jun-2016
• ICS: 01.040.59 - Textile and leather technology (Vocabularies)
• ICS: 59.080.30 - Textile fabrics
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.59 - Fabric Physical Test Methods A

Standards Content (Sample)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D3990 − 12 (Reapproved 2016)
Standard Terminology Relating to
1
Fabric Defects
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1. Scope
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit
fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related
material are given under the most frequently used terms;
synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions:
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafe
beaded selvage—See loopy selvage.
mark)
bias—See skew.
apron mark—See decating mark. birdseye, n—in knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.
baggy cloth—See wavy cloth.
blanket mark—See sanforizing mark.
baggy selvage—See slack selvage.
blotch, n—an offcolored area of any shape caused by grease or
balling up—See fuzz ball.
oil. (Syn. oil spot)
barré, n—anunintentional,repetitivevisualpatternofcontinu-
ous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or
fabric or to the courses of circular knit fabric. (Compare
knitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to
warp streak, mixed filling)
the selvages and form one or more arcs across the width of
DISCUSSION—The term “barré” is sometimes used as a synonym for
fabric. (See also double bow)
“warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barré can be caused by
physical, optical, or dye differences in the yarns, geometric differences
bow, double—See double bow.
in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.
box mark—See shuttle mark.
break-out—See smash.
1
ThisterminologyisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextiles
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods,
due to yarn breakage.
General.
Current edition approved July 1, 2016. Published July 2016. Originally approved
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or
as an appendix to Terminology D123 in 1964. Redesignated D3990 in 1981. Last
ɛ1
previous edition approved in 2012 as D3990 – 12 . DOI: 10.1520/D3990-12R16. more filaments. (Syn. strip back, skin back)
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
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D3990 − 12 (2016)
broken pick, n— in woven fabrics,adiscontinuityinthefilling
direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.
crease, n—a fabric defect evidenced by a break, line, or mark
generally caused by a sharp fold. (Syn. mill wrinkle)
broken selvage—See cut selvage.
crease mark, n—a visible deformation left in a fabric after a
bruise, n—in fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact
creasehasbeenincompletelyremovedduringfabricprocess-
or pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.
ing.
(Syn. pressure mark.)
crocking, n—a transfer of color from the surface of a colored
bunch—See slug.
fabric to an adjacent area of the same fabric or to another
chafe mark—See abrasion mark.
surface principally by rubbing action. (Compare color stain-
clip mark, n—a visual deformation near the edge of a fabric
ing)
parallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressure
exerted by a clasping device on a clip tenter frame. (See also
pin mark.)
coarse end, n—a larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn.
heavy end) (Compare fine end)
coarse filling—See coarse pick.
coarse pick, n— in woven fabrics, one or more picks of larger
diameterthanthenormalfillingyarninthefabric.(Syn.thick
filling)
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.
color bleeding, n—the loss of color from a dyed fabric when
crowsfeet, n—in fabrics, fine wrinkles of varying degrees of
immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid
intensity, size, and shape.
medium, with consequent coloring of the liquid medium.
DISCUSSION—Crowsfeet may occur during wet processing and on
(Compare color staining.)
finished goods after folding.
color staining, n—the undesired pickup of color by a fabric:
curl—See kink.
(1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar
curled selvage, n—self-descriptive. (Syn. rolled selvage,
liquid medium, that contains dyestuffs or coloring material
turned-over edge)
not intended for coloring the fabric, or (2) by direct contact
with other d
...

This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
´1
Designation: D3990 − 12 D3990 − 12 (Reapproved 2016)
Standard Terminology Relating to
1
Fabric Defects
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3990; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1
ε NOTE—Terms from Test Method D7811 were added editorially in August 2013.
1. Scope
1.1 This terminology covers defects in both woven and knit fabrics. Descriptions of the defects, illustrations, and related
material are given under the most frequently used terms; synonym(s) are listed in parentheses and cross referenced.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
D7811 Test Method For Bow and Skew using a Measuring Tool
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions:
abrasion mark, n—an area damaged by friction. (Syn. chafe mark)
apron mark—See decating mark.
baggy cloth—See wavy cloth.
baggy selvage—See slack selvage.
balling up—See fuzz ball.
barré, n—an unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of continuous bars and stripes usually parallel to the filling of woven fabric
or to the courses of circular knit fabric. (Compare warp streak, mixed filling)
1
This terminology is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, General.
Current edition approved July 1, 2012July 1, 2016. Published August 2012July 2016. Originally approved as an appendix to Terminology D123 in 1964. Redesignated
ɛ1
D3990 in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 2012 as D3990 – 12.D3990 – 12 . DOI: 10.1520/D3990-12E01.10.1520/D3990-12R16.
DISCUSSION—
The term “barré” is sometimes used as a synonym for “warp streaks” in warp knit and woven fabrics. Barré can be caused by physical, optical, or dye
differences in the yarns, geometric differences in the fabric structure, or by any combination of these differences.
beaded selvage—See loopy selvage.
bias—See skew.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1

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D3990 − 12 (2016)
birdseye, n—in knitted fabrics, an unintentional tuck stitch.
blanket mark—See sanforizing mark.
blotch, n—an offcolored area of any shape caused by grease or oil. (Syn.oil spot)
bow, n—a fabric condition resulting when filling yarns or knitting courses are displaced from a line perpendicular to the selvages
and form one or more arcs across the width of fabric. (See also double bow)
bow, double—See double bow.
box mark—See shuttle mark.
break-out—See smash.
broken end, n—in woven fabrics, a void in the warp direction due to yarn breakage.
broken filament, n—in multifilament yarn, breaks in one or more filaments. (Syn. strip back, skin back)
broken pick, n— in woven fabrics, a discontinuity in the filling direction caused by a break or cut in the filling yarn.
broken selvage—See cut selvage.
bruise, n—in fabrics, an area that has been subjected to impact or pressure, that differs from the adjacent normal fabric.
(Syn.pressure mark.)
bunch—See slug.
chafe mark—See abrasion mark.
clip mark, n—a visual deformation near the edge of a fabric parallel with the lengthwise direction caused by pressure exerted by
a clasping device on a clip tenter frame. (See also pin mark.)
coarse end, n—a larger than normal diameter warp end. (Syn. heavy end) (Compare fine end)
coarse filling—See coarse pick.
coarse pick, n— in woven fabrics, one or more picks of larger diameter than the normal filling yarn in the fabric. (Syn. thick filling)
cockles, n—in yarns, irregular thick, uneven, lumps.
color bleeding, n—the loss of color from a dyed fabric when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid medium,
with consequent coloring of the liquid medium. (Compare color staining.)
color staining, n—the undesired pickup of color by a fabric: (1) when immersed in water, dry-cleaning solvent, or similar liquid
medium, that contains dyestuffs or coloring material not intended for coloring the fabric, or (2) by direct contact with other dyed
material from which color is transferred by bleeding or sublimation. (Compare crocking, color bleeding)
corded selvage—See loopy selvage.
crack mark, n—an open place causing a s
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