ASTM D3995-02(2008)

Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Women's Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dress and Vocational

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 may be modifed by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller.
In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 3995 except for the following characteristic(s).”
Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.
The significance and use of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test methods.
SCOPE
1.1 This performance specification covers the minimum performance requirements for men's and women's knitted fabrics for dress and vocational career apparel composed of any textile fiber or mixtures of textile fibers.
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to career apparel fabrics such as those used in protective clothing, that do not patently fit the categories in 3.1.1 and 3.1.2. Minimum performance specifications for such fabrics should be as agreed between the purchaser and the seller.
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those factors where each fabric direction is pertinent.
1.4 The following precautionary statement pertains only to the test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

General Information

• Status: Historical
• Publication Date: 31-Jul-2008
• ICS: 61.020 - Clothes
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.61 - Apparel

Relations

• Replaces: ASTM D3995-02 - Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Women's Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dress and Vocational
• Effective Date: 01-Aug-2008
• Replaced By: ASTM D3995-13 - Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Women's Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dress and Vocational
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2013

Standards Content (Sample)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation:D3995 −02(Reapproved 2008)
Standard Performance Specification for
Men’s and Women’s Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dress
and Vocational
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3995; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—
Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
1.1 This performance specification covers the minimum
2.2 AATCC Methods:
performance requirements for men’s and women’s knitted
AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter
fabrics for dress and vocational career apparel composed of
Method
any textile fiber or mixtures of textile fibers.
AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to
AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light
career apparel fabrics such as those used in protective clothing,
AATCC 23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
that do not patently fit the categories in 3.1.1 and 3.1.2.
AATCC61 ColorfastnesstoWashing,DomesticLaundering,
Minimum performance specifications for such fabrics should
Commercial: Accelerated
be as agreed between the purchaser and the seller.
AATCC 116 Colorfastness to Crocking, Rotary Vertical
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width Crockmeter Method
directions for those factors where each fabric direction is AATCC 124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After
pertinent. Repeated Home Launderings
AATCC 132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
1.4 The following precautionary statement pertains only to
AATCC 135 Dimensional Change in Automatic Home
the test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. This
Laundering of Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics
standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns,
AATCC 172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home
if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user
Laundering
of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health
AATCC 188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach
practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limita-
in Home Laundering
tions prior to use.
Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining
2. Referenced Documents
Evaluation Procedure 3 Chromatic Transference Scale
2.1 ASTM Standards:
2.3 Federal Standard:
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Tex-
D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
tiles
Apparel Fabrics
D2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for NOTE 1—The specific dated editions ofASTM test methods that prevail
in this standard are referenced in Section 7 on Test Methods.
Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile
3. Terminology
Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 career apparel, n—garments which are manufactured
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee for a variety of end uses and for which performance require-
D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on
ments vary.
Apparel.
3.1.1.1 Discussion—The two major end uses for career
Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008 . Originally
apparel are dress apparel and vocational apparel.
approved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D3995 – 02. DOI:
10.1520/D3995-02R08.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http://
the ASTM website. www.aatcc.org.
3 5
The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,
www.astm.org. Washington, DC 20402.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D3995−02 (2008)
3.1.2 career apparel, dress, n—a category of tailored uni- 5. Significance and Use
form in which abusive wear is not common and in which
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the
appearance is much more important than durability (see also
seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the
career apparel, vocational career apparel).
requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
3.1.3 career apparel, vocational, n—atypeofgarmentworn
5.2 Itisrecognizedthatforpurposesoffashionoraesthetics
as a uniform in which abusive wear is common and durability
the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may
is generally more important than appearance (see also career
find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the
apparel, dress career apparel).
requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the
3.1.4 dimensional change in pressing and finishing, n—the
requirements listed in Table 1 may be modifed by mutual
change in dimensions undergone by a fabric subjected to agreement between the purchaser and the seller.
pressing and finishing during garment manufacturing.
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall
specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D3995
3.1.5 For definitions of other terms used in this
except for the following characteristic(s).”
specification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC test
methods and Terminology D123.
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached
3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard: between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of
3.2.1 pressing and finishing, n—this term takes into account
controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to
a variety of industrial pressing and finishing treatments used in be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer
garment manufacturing. demands dictate varying performance parameters for any
particular style of fabric.
NOTE 2—No standard method is available for reproducing on a
laboratory level the results of industrial press or finishing treatments, or
5.4 Thesignificanceanduseofparticularpropertiesandtest
both, used in the manufacture of knitted apparel garments.
methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the
specified test methods.
4. Specification Requirements
6. Sampling
4.1 The properties of knitted fabric for men’s and women’s
careerapparelshallconformtothespecificationrequirementin 6.1 Testsshallbeperformedonthefabricasitwillreachthe
Table 1. consumer.Any“partiallyfinished”or“post-finished”fabricsor
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—The classes of colorfastness and DP rating are based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible or no color change, color transfer, or wrinkle
to 1 for very severe color change, color transfer, or wrinkle.
Requirements
Characteristics Section
Career Dress Apparel Career Vocational Apparel
Bursting strength (ball burst) 60 lbf (267 N) min 60 lbf (267 N) min 7.1
Dimensional stability (each direction):
Pressing and finishing 2 % max shrinkage, 0 % growth 2 % max shrink, 0 % growth 7.2.1
After 5 washes 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2
After 3 drycleanings 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.4
Fabric smoothness Class 4, DP, min Class 3, DP, min 7.3
Flammability Class 1 or Class 2 Class 1 or Class 2 7.4
Colorfastness:
Laundering: 7.5.1
A A
Color change Class 4, min Class 4, min
B B
Staining Class 3 or 4, min, Class 3 or 4, min
A A
Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach Class 4, min Class 4, min 7.5.8
A A
Non-Chlorine Bleach Class 4, min Class 4, min 7.5.9
Drycleaning: 7.5.3
A A
Color change Class 4, min, Class 4, min
Crocking 7.5.4
C C
Dry Class 4, min Class 4, min
C C
Wet Class 3, min Class 3, min
Burnt Gas Fumes—1 cycle: 7.5.5
Shade change, original
fabric and after
1 laundering or
A
1 drycleaning Class 4, min Class 4, min
Light: (xenon-arc) 7.5.6
A A
Outdoor (40 AATCC SFU) Step 4, min Step 4, min
A A
Indoor (20 AATCC SFU) Step 4, min Step 4, min
Perspiration 7.5.7
A A
Color change Class 4, min Class 4, min
B B
Staining Class 3, min Class 3, min
A
...

This document is not anASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of anASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation:D3995–95 Designation: D 3995 – 02 (Reapproved 2008)
Standard Performance Specification for
Men’s and Women’s Knitted Career Apparel Fabrics: Dress
and Vocational
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3995; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This performance specification covers the minimum performance requirements for men’s and women’s knitted fabrics for
dress and vocational career apparel composed of any textile fiber or mixtures of textile fibers.
1.2 This performance specification is not applicable to career apparel fabrics such as those used in protective clothing, that do
notpatentlyfitthecategoriesin3.1.1and3.1.2.Minimumperformancespecificationsforsuchfabricsshouldbeasagreedbetween
the purchaser and the seller.
1.3 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those factors where each fabric direction is pertinent.
1.4 The following precautionary statement pertains only to the test methods portion, Section 7, of this specification. This
standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user
of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior
to use.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
D 2905 Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for Textiles
D 3786Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength of Knitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength
Tester Method Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile FabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
D 3787Test Method for Bursting Strength of Knitted Goods—Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
D3887SpecificationforTolerancesforKnittedFabric TestMethodforBurstingStrengthofTextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse
(CRT) Ball Burst Test
2.2 AATCC Methods:
AATCC 8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
AATCC 15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
AATCC 16 Colorfastness to Light
AATCC 23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
AATCC 61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic Laundering, Commercial: Accelerated
AATCC 116 Colorfastness to Crocking, Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method
AATCC 124 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics After Repeated Home Launderings
AATCC 132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
AATCC 135 Dimensional Change in Automatic Home Laundering of Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics
AATCC 172 Colorfastness to Non-Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
AATCC 188 Colorfastness to Sodium Hypochlorite Bleach in Home Laundering
Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining
Evaluation Procedure 3 Chromatic Transference Scale
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved May 15, 1995. Published July 1995. Originally published as D3995–81. Last previous edition D3995–92.
This performance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008 . Originally approved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 2002 as D 3995 – 02.
For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
, Vol 07.01.volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol 07.02.
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http://www.aatcc.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 3995 – 02 (2008)
2.3 Federal Standard:
16 CFR 1610 Standard for Flammability of Clothing Textiles
NOTE 1—The specific dated editions of ASTM test methods that prevail in this standard are referenced in Section 7 on Test Methods.
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 career apparel, n—garments which are manufactured for a variety of end uses and for which performance requirements
vary.
3.1.1.1 Discussion—The two major end uses for career apparel are dress apparel and vocational apparel.
3.1.2 career apparel, dress, n—a category of tailored uniform in which abusive wear is not common and in which appearance
is much more important than durability (see also career apparel, vocational career apparel).
3.1.3 career apparel, vocational, n—a type of garment worn as a uniform in which abusive wear is common and durability is
generally more important than appearance (see also career apparel, dress career apparel).
3.1.4 dimensional change in pressing and finishing, n—the change in dimensions undergone by a fabric subjected to pressing
and finishing during garment manufacturing.
3.1.5 For definitions of other terms used in this specification, refer to the individual ASTM and AATCC test methods and
Terminology D 123.
3.2 Definitions of Terms Specific to This Standard:
3.2.1 pressing and finishing, n—this term takes into account a variety of industrial pressing and finishing treatments used in
garment manufacturing.
NOTE 2—No standard method is available for reproducing on a laboratory level the results of industrial press or finishing treatments, or both, used in
the manufacture of knitted apparel garments.
4. Specification Requirements
4.1 The properties of knitted fabric for men’s and women’s career apparel shall conform to the specification requirement in
Table 1.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the
requirements listed in Table 1 of this specification.
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find
acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in
Table 1 may be modifed by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller.
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meetsASTM Specification D 3995 except
for the following characteristic(s).”
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, the
requirements listed inTable 1 are intended to be used as a guide only.As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying
performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.
5.4 The significance and use of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified
test methods.
6. Sampling
6.1 Tests shall be performed on the fabric as it will reach the consumer. Any “partially finished” or “post-finished” fabrics or
those which will be pleated, creased, steamed, or pressed during manufacturing should be processed in accordance with the fabric
manufacturer’s instructions before tests are made.
6.2 Unless otherwise agreed upon, as when specified in an applicable material specification, take the number of specimens
directed in each of the applicable test methods.
6.2.1 If there has been no prior agreement and the test method does not specify the number of specimens, use the procedures
in Practice D 2905 to determine the number of specimens, such that the user may expect at the 95 % probability level that the test
result is no more than 5 % of the average above or below the lot average (that is, the average that would be obtained by applying
this method to the entire lot) using a reliable estimate of variability of individual observations on similar materials in the user’s
laboratory under conditions of single-operator precision.
7. Test Methods (Note 1)
7.1 Bursting Strength—Determine the bursting strength as directed in Test Methods D 3787 or D 3786.
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, N.C. 27709.
Available from Superi
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