ASTM D3992-94(2006)
(Specification)Standard Specifications for Fineness of Wool Top or Mohair Top and Assignment of Grade
Standard Specifications for Fineness of Wool Top or Mohair Top and Assignment of Grade
SCOPE
1.1 These specifications are applicable in the classification, by fineness grade, of the fiber in wool top, mohair top, wool yarns, mohair yarns, wool fabrics, and mohair fabrics of the worsted type.
Note 1 - For fineness specifications for wool, mohair, and alpaca, refer to Specifications D 3991 and D 2252.
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Designation: D3992 – 94 (Reapproved 2006)
Standard Specifications for
Fineness of Wool Top or Mohair Top and Assignment of
1
Grade
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3992; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.1.2 fineness, n—of textile fibers, a relative measure of
size, diameter, linear density, or mass per unit length expressed
1.1 These specifications are applicable in the classification,
in a variety of units.
by fineness grade, of the fiber in wool top, mohair top, wool
3.1.2.1 Discussion—The fineness of wool and other animal
yarns, mohair yarns, wool fabrics, and mohair fabrics of the
fibers is expressed as the average fiber width or average fiber
worsted type.
diameter in micrometres (µm).
NOTE 1—For fineness specifications for wool, mohair, and alpaca, refer
3.1.3 grade, n—in wool and mohair, a numerical designa-
to Specifications D3991 and D2252.
tion used in classifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-
processed, and processed forms based on average fiber diam-
2. Referenced Documents
eter and variation of fiber diameter.
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
3.1.3.1 Discussion—This specification expresses the varia-
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
tion in fiber diameter by means of distribution of fiber diameter
D2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other
measurements.
Animal Fibers by Microprojection
3.1.3.2 The term “grade” should not be confused with the
D2252 Specification for Fineness of Types of Alpaca
terms “quality” and “type.” “Quality” is a term that includes
D3991 Specifications for Fineness of Wool or Mohair and
not only fineness but also characteristics such as length, crimp,
Assignment of Grade
strength, elasticity, luster, tactile hand, and color, all of which
2.2 Federal Standards:
affect the spinnability of the fiber and the properties of the
Official Standards of the United States for Grades of Wool
resultingyarnandfabric.TheBradforddesignations,forwhich
3
Top, Section 31.100
no standards exist, use a scale similar to that for grade
Measurement Method for Determining Grade of Wool Top,
designations (for example: 64s, 56s, and so forth) and refer to
3
Section 31.301
quality and not solely to fineness. “Type” is a term designating
Official Standards of the United States for Grades of Mohair
a particular combination of characteristics applicable to a
4
Top, Section 32.100
specific use or descriptive of geographical origin, breed of
Measurement Method for Determining Grade of Mohair
sheep, or preparation for market.
4
Top, Section 32.302
3.1.4 mohair, n—the hair of the Angora goat, Capra spe-
cies.
3. Terminology
3.1.5 top, n—in wool, a continuous untwisted strand of
3.1 Definitions:
wool fibers from which the shorter fibers or noils have been
3.1.1 average fiber, diameter, n— in wool and other animal
removed by combing.
fibers,theaveragewidthofagroupoffiberswhenmeasuredon
3.1.6 wool, n—the fibrous covering of the sheep, Ovis
a projected image.
species.
3.1.7 For definitions of other textile terms used in these
1
These specifications are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on
specifications, refer to Terminology D123.
Textiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and
Wool Felt.
4. Requirements
Current edition approved Aug. 15, 2006. Published October 2006. Originally
4.1 The grade of wool top shall conform to Table 1.
approved in 1981. Last previous edition approved in 2000 as D3992 – 94 (2000).
Replaces D472 and D1381. DOI: 10.1520/D3992-94R06.
4.2 The grade of mohair top shall conform to Table 2.
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website.
3
Federal Register, Vol 33, No. 248, Dec. 21, 1968, pp. 19073–19076.
4
Federal Register, Vol 38, No. 4, Jan. 8, 1976, pp. 964–967.
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D3992 – 94 (2006)
A,B
TABLE 1 Specifications for Grades of Wool Top
Fiber Diameter Distribution, %
Average Fiber
25.1 µm 30.1 µm 40.1 µm 50.1 µm 60.1 µm
25 µm 30 µm 40 µm
Grade Diameter
and and and and and
and Un- and Un- and Un-
Range, µm
Over, Over, Over, Over, Over,
der, min der, min der, min
max max max max max
Finer than 80s under 18.10 95 . . 5 1 . . .
80s 18.10–19.59 91 . . 9 1 . . .
70s 19.60–21.09 83 . . 17 3 . . .
64s 21.10–22.59 . 92 . . 8 1 . .
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