Artificial climbing structures - Part 1: Safety requirements and test methods for ACS with protection points

This European Standard specifies the safety requirements and test methods for artificial climbing structures with protection points (hereafter referred to as ACS).
This European Standard is applicable for ACS in normal use for sport climbing.
This European Standard is not applicable to ice climbing, dry tooling and playground equipment.

Künstliche Kletteranlagen - Teil 1: Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für KKA mit Sicherungspunkten

Diese Europäische Norm legt die sicherheitstechnischen Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren von künstlichen Kletteranlagen mit Sicherungspunkten fest (im nachfolgenden KKA genannt).
Diese Europäische Norm gilt für den üblichen Gebrauch der KKA im Bereich des Sportkletterns.
Diese Europäische Norm gilt nicht für Eisklettern, "Drytooling" (Eisklettern an künstlichen Wänden) und Spielplatzgeräte.

Structures artificielles d'escalade - Partie 1 : Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai relatives aux SAE avec points d'assurage

La présente Norme européenne spécifie les exigences de sécurité et méthodes d’essai applicables aux structures artificielles d’escalade avec points d’assurage (ci-apres appelées SAE).
La présente Norme européenne est applicable aux SAE dans le cadre d’une utilisation normale en escalade.
La présente Norme européenne ne s’applique ni aux techniques d’escalade sur glace ou «dry tooling», ni aux équipements d’aires de jeux.

Umetne plezalne stene – 1. del: Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za umetne plezalne stene z varovalnimi točkami

General Information

Status
Withdrawn
Publication Date
02-Jul-2007
Withdrawal Date
31-Jan-2017
Technical Committee
Current Stage
9900 - Withdrawal (Adopted Project)
Start Date
01-Feb-2017
Due Date
24-Feb-2017
Completion Date
01-Feb-2017

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EN 12572-1:2007
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2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.Artificial climbing structures - Part 1: Safety requirements and test methods for ACS with protection pointsStructures artificielles d'escalade - Partie 1 : Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai relatives aux SAE avec points d'assurageKünstliche Kletteranlagen - Teil 1: Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für KKA mit SicherungspunktenTa slovenski standard je istoveten z:EN 12572-1:2007SIST EN 12572-1:2007en;fr;de97.220.10Športni objektiSports facilitiesICS:SLOVENSKI
STANDARDSIST EN 12572-1:200701-julij-2007







EUROPEAN STANDARDNORME EUROPÉENNEEUROPÄISCHE NORMEN 12572-1April 2007ICS 97.220.10 English VersionArtificial climbing structures - Part 1: Safety requirements andtest methods for ACS with protection pointsStructures artificielles d'escalade - Partie 1: Exigences desécurité et méthodes d'essai pour SAE avec points deprotectionKünstliche Kletteranlagen - Teil 1: SicherheitstechnischeAnforderungen und Prüfverfahren für KKA mitSicherungspunktenThis European Standard was approved by CEN on 24 February 2007.CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this EuropeanStandard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such nationalstandards may be obtained on application to the CEN Management Centre or to any CEN member.This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translationunder the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN Management Centre has the same status as theofficial versions.CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland,France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal,Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATIONCOMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATIONEUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNGManagement Centre: rue de Stassart, 36
B-1050 Brussels© 2007 CENAll rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reservedworldwide for CEN national Members.Ref. No. EN 12572-1:2007: E



EN 12572-1:2007 (E) 2 Contents Page Foreword.4 1 Scope.5 2 Normative references.5 3 Terms and definitions.5 4 Safety requirements and test methods.6 4.1 Layout and placement of individual protection points.6 4.2 Design of individual top protection points.8 4.3 Dimensions.8 4.4 Structural Integrity.9 4.4.1 Structural integrity of an ACS.9 4.4.2 Structural integrity of a protection point connection.10 4.5 Impact resistance of surface elements.10 4.6 Hold insert resistance.10 4.7 Proof testing.10 4.8 Falling space.10 4.9 Free space.11 4.10 Climbing surfaces.11 5 Marking.11 6 Instruction manual.12 7 Conformity of ACS.12 Annex A (normative)
Effects.13 A.1 Permanent effects.13 A.2 Variable effects.13 A.2.1 General.13 A.2.2 User loads.13 A.2.3 Snow loads.13 A.2.4 Wind loads.14 A.2.5 Effects of temperature.14 A.2.6 Special loads.14 Annex B (normative)
Method of calculation of structural integrity.15 B.1 General principles.15 B.1.1 Limit state.15 B.1.2 Ultimate limit state.15 B.2 Combination effects for the ultimate limit state.16 B.3 Structural stability.16 Annex C (normative)
Load testing of structural integrity of protection point connections.17 C.1 General.17 C.2 Apparatus.17 C.3 Sampling.17 C.4 Procedure.17 Annex D (normative)
Impact test of surface elements.18 D.1 General.18 D.2 Apparatus.18 D.3 Sampling.18 D.4 Procedure.18 Annex E (normative)
Hold insert resistance test.21 E.1 General.21 E.2 Apparatus.21 E.3 Sampling.21 E.4 Procedure.21



EN 12572-1:2007 (E) 3 Annex F (normative)
Proof testing.23 F.1 General.23 F.2 Procedure.23 F.2.1 General.23 F.2.2 Protection points.23 Annex G (normative)
Inspection and maintenance.26 Bibliography.28



EN 12572-1:2007 (E) 4 Foreword This document (EN 12572-1:2007) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground and recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN. This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by October 2007, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at the latest by October 2007. This standard consists of a number of parts as follows: EN 12572-1, Artificial climbing structures — Part 1: Safety requirements and test methods for ACS with pro-tection points prEN 12572-2, Artificial climbing structures — Part 2: Safety requirements and test methods for bouldering walls prEN 12572-3, Artificial climbing structures — Part 3: Safety requirements and test methods for climbing holds According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Cyprus, Czech Repub-lic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.



EN 12572-1:2007 (E) 5 1 Scope This European Standard specifies the safety requirements and test methods for artificial climbing structures with protection points (hereafter referred to as ACS). This European Standard is applicable for ACS in normal use for sport climbing. This European Standard is not applicable to ice climbing, dry tooling and playground equipment. 2 Normative references The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated refer-ences, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies. EN 1991-1-3, Eurocode 1 — Actions on structures — Part 1-3: General actions — Snow loads EN 1991-1-4, Eurocode 1 : Actions on structures — Part 1-4: General actions — Wind actions EN 1991-1-5, Eurocode 1 : Actions on structures — Part 1-5: General actions — Thermal actions 3 Terms and definitions For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply. 3.1 artificial climbing structure (ACS) sports equipment consisting of a purpose-built climbing structure, which shows various construction characteris-tics, and is designed for various uses in sport climbing objectives and is not reserved for a particular age group 3.2 protection point attachment point on the ACS designed to protect the climber NOTE It can be permanent (cannot be removed with tools, e.g. a glue in anchor) or non-permanent (removable with tools, e.g. a hanger). 3.3 individual protection point intermediate protection point used to safeguard a climber in his/her progress on the ACS 3.4 individual top protection point protection point which is fixed at the top of a climbing line and which is designed to take the rope of one climber NOTE It can be used for top rope or lead climbing. 3.5 collective top protection system protection system which is fixed at the top of a climbing line and which is designed to take the ropes of several climbers at once NOTE It can be used for top rope or lead climbing.



EN 12572-1:2007 (E) 6 3.6 individual base protection point anchor point which is fixed to the base area of the ACS and which is designed either to secure a belayer control-ling the rope of a lead-climber or as an anchor for a self belay system or as an anchor for a protection system 3.7 stance position on an ACS consisting of two or more individual protection points linked together, where the climber can stop, protect him/herself and his/her fellow climber can join him/her before continuing the climb from the stance 3.8 span (see Figure F.2) part of a collective top rope system measured between two consecutive supports or attachments 3.9 characteristic load maximum load that can be generated in normal use 3.10 falling space space on or around the ACS that can be occupied by the user during a fall 3.11 free space space around the ground projection of the ACS that can be occupied by a climbing, a lowering, spotting or belaying user 4 Safety requirements and test methods 4.1 Layout and placement of individual protection points If there are individual protection points, the height of the first point shall not exceed 3,10 m. The maximum distance x for the placement of the individual protection point which follows the point situated at the height of h (see Figure 1) shall be determined by using Equation (1) 5)0,2(x+=h
(1) however, x shall not exceed:
1 m if h ≤ 5 m;
2 m if h ≥ 5 m where h is the distance between the point and the ground measured vertically, in metres, beneath the point in all cases. For slabs with an inclination of more than 5° the maximum distance x shall be always 1 m (see Figure 3). For protection points, the maximum distance shall be measured from the lowest internal point of the attach-ment point. If permanent quick draws are installed, the maximum distance shall be measured from lower quick draw end to lower quick draw end. A permanent quick draw (e.g. chain secure element, Maillon Rapide) has to be dis-assembled from the climbing wall by means of tools (see Figure 2).



EN 12572-1:2007 (E) 7 Protection points attached with bolts shall be secured, so they cannot come undone, e.g. with lock nuts.
a) b) Figure 1 — Layout of protection points
a) b) Figure 2 — Design and placement of permanent quick draws



EN 12572-1:2007 (E) 8
Figure 3 — Design and layout of protection points on slabs 4.2 Design of individual top protection points The rope shall not be able to escape from the top protection points at an untimely moment, e.g. single-snap-gate karabiner is not sufficient. Individual top protection points shall be attached to the structure by two or more points of fixation. Each fixa-tion point shall be calculated as a protection point. Each link between the fixing points shall have a resistance greater than or equal to each of the points which it joins together; this resistance shall be verified by either calculation (see Annex A), or a document of compli-ance, or tests as defined in Annex C. 4.3 Dimensions The dimensions of all protection points and stance points with the exception of individual and collective top protection systems shall be in accordance with Figure 4. The bar or device over or through which the rope passes in either a collective top protection system or an in-dividual top protection point shall be rounded in accordance with Figure 5.



EN 12572-1:2007 (E) 9 Dimensions in millimetres
Figure 4 — Design of individual protection points Dimensio
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