ASTM D3991-94(2006)

Standard Specifications for Fineness of Wool or Mohair and Assignment of Grade

SCOPE
1.1 These specifications cover the classification, by fineness grade, of wool or mohair that is in the grease, pulled, washed, or scoured state, or in the form of card sliver.
1.2 These specifications are applicable also to assignment of grade for wool or mohair in spun materials or products processed beyond carding on the woolen system but not on the worsted system which involves a combing process.
Note 1 - For fineness specifications for wool top, mohair top, and alpaca, refer to Specifications D 3992 and D 2252.

General Information

• Status: Historical
• Publication Date: 14-Aug-2006
• ICS: 59.060.10 - Natural fibres
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.13 - Wool and Felt

Relations

• Replaces: ASTM D3991-94(2000) - Standard Specifications for Fineness of Wool or Mohair and Assignment of Grade
• Effective Date: 15-Aug-2006
• Referred By: ASTM D1282-18 - Standard Test Method for Resistance to Airflow as an Indication of Average Fiber Diameter of Wool Top, Card Sliver, and Scoured Wool
• Effective Date: 15-Aug-2006
• Referred By: ASTM D4845-10(2018) - Standard Terminology Relating to Wool
• Effective Date: 15-Aug-2006
• Referred By: ASTM D6466-10(2018) - Standard Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers By Sirolan-Laserscan Fiber Diameter Analyser
• Effective Date: 15-Aug-2006

Standards Content (Sample)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D3991 – 94 (Reapproved 2006)
Standard Specifications for
Fineness of Wool or Mohair and Assignment of Grade
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3991; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
NOTE 2—A discussion on the development of grease mohair standards
1. Scope
5,6
can be found in the literature.
1.1 These specifications cover the classification, by fineness
grade, of wool or mohair that is in the grease, pulled, washed,
3. Terminology
or scoured state, or in the form of card sliver.
3.1 Definitions:
1.2 Thesespecificationsareapplicablealsotoassignmentof
3.1.1 average fiber, diameter, n— in wool and other animal
grade for wool or mohair in spun materials or products
fibers,theaveragewidthofagroupoffiberswhenmeasuredon
processed beyond carding on the woolen system but not on the
a projected image.
worsted system which involves a combing process.
3.1.2 fineness, n—of textile fibers, a relative measure of
NOTE 1—For fineness specifications for wool top, mohair top, and size, diameter, linear density or mass per unit length expressed
alpaca, refer to Specifications D3992 and D2252.
in a variety of units.
3.1.2.1 Discussion—The fineness of wool and other animal
2. Referenced Documents
fibers is expressed as the average fiber width or average fiber
2.1 ASTM Standards:
diameter in micrometres (µm).
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3.1.3 grade, n—in wool and mohair, a numerical designa-
D2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other
tion used in classifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-
Animal Fibers by Microprojection
processed, and processed forms based on average fiber diam-
D2252 Specification for Fineness of Types of Alpaca
eter and variation of fiber diameter.
D3992 Specifications for Fineness of Wool Top or Mohair
3.1.3.1 Discussion—This specification expresses the varia-
Top and Assignment of Grade
tion in fiber diameter by means of the standard deviation of the
2.2 Federal Standards:
fiber diameter measurements.
Official Standards of the United States for Grades of Wool,
3.1.3.2 The term “grade” should not be confused with the
Section 31.0
terms “quality” and “type.” “Quality” is a term that includes
Measurement Method for Determining Grade of Wool,
not only fineness but also characteristics such as length, crimp,
Section 31.204
strength, elasticity, luster, tactile hand, and color, all of which
Official Standards of the United States for Grades of Grease
affect the spinnability of the fiber and the properties of the
Mohair, Section 32.1
resultingyarnandfabric.TheBradforddesignations,forwhich
Measurement Method for Determining Grade of Grease
no standards exist, use a scale similar to that for grade
Mohair, Section 32.204
designations (for example: 64s, 56s, and so forth) and refer to
quality and not solely to fineness. “Type” is a term designating
a particular combination of characteristics applicable to a
specific use or descriptive of geographical origin, breed of
These specifications are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on
Textiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and
sheep, or preparation for market.
Wool Felt.
3.1.4 mohair, n—the hair of the Angora goat, Capra spe-
Current edition approved Aug. 15, 2006. Published October 2006. Originally
cies.
approved in 19–81. Last previous edition approved in 2000 as D3991–94 (2000).
Replaces D419 and D3109. DOI: 10.1520/D3991-94R06.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Keller, H. R., Ray, H. D., Lineberry, C. T., and Pohle, E. M., “Fineness
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on RelationshipofGreaseMohair,CardSliver,andTop,” Textile Research Journal,Vol
the ASTM website. 42, No. 2, February 1971.
3 6
Federal Register, Vol 30, No. 161, Aug. 20, 1965, pp 10829–10833. ASTM Research Report No. D13 – 1012. A copy is available from ASTM
Federal Register, Vol 36, No. 129, July 3, 1971, pp 12681–12685. Headquarters, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D3991 – 94 (2006)
A
TABLE 2 Specifications for Grades of Mohair
3.1.5 wool, n—the fibrous covering of the sheep, Ovis
species. Range for Average Fiber Standard Deviation,
Grade
Diameter, µm max, µm
3.1.6 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
Finer than 40s under 23.01 7.2
specification, refer to Terminology D123.
40s 23.01 to 25.00 7.6
36s 25.01 to 27.00 8.0
4. Requirements
32s 27.01 to 29.00 8.4
30s 29.01 to 31.00 8.8
4.1 The grade of wool shall conform to the requirements of
28s 31.01 to 33.00 9.2
Table 1.
26s 33.01 to 35.00 9.6
24s 35.01 to 37.00 10.0
4.2 The grade of mohair shall conform to the requirements
22s 37.01 to 39.00 10.5
of Table 2.
20s 39.01 to 41.00 11.0
18s 41.01 to 43.00 11.5
5. Significance and Use
Coarser than 18s over 43.01
A
The specifications in this table conform to the Official Standards of the United
5.1 These specifications are considered satisfactory for clas-
States for Grades of Grease Mohair as promulgated by the U.S. Department of
sifying wool or moha
...