ASTM D3991-94(2000)

Standard Specifications for Fineness of Wool or Mohair and Assignment of Grade

SCOPE
1.1 These specifications cover the classification, by fineness grade, of wool or mohair that is in the grease, pulled, washed, or scoured state, or in the form of card sliver.  
1.2 These specifications are applicable also to assignment of grade for wool or mohair in spun materials or products processed beyond carding on the woolen system but not on the worsted system which involves a combing process.  
Note 1-For fineness specifications for wool top, mohair top, and alpaca, refer to Specifications D3992 and D2252.

General Information

• Status: Historical
• Publication Date: 09-Mar-2000
• ICS: 59.060.10 - Natural fibres
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.13 - Wool and Felt

Relations

• Replaced By: ASTM D3991-94(2006) - Standard Specifications for Fineness of Wool or Mohair and Assignment of Grade
• Effective Date: 15-Aug-2006
• Referred By: ASTM D4845-10(2018) - Standard Terminology Relating to Wool
• Effective Date: 10-Mar-2000
• Referred By: ASTM D1282-18 - Standard Test Method for Resistance to Airflow as an Indication of Average Fiber Diameter of Wool Top, Card Sliver, and Scoured Wool
• Effective Date: 10-Mar-2000
• Referred By: ASTM D6466-10(2018) - Standard Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other Animal Fibers By Sirolan-Laserscan Fiber Diameter Analyser
• Effective Date: 10-Mar-2000

Standards Content (Sample)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D 3991 – 94 (Reapproved 2000)
Standard Specifications for
Fineness of Wool or Mohair and Assignment of Grade
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 3991; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
5,6
can be found in the literature.
1. Scope
1.1 These specifications cover the classification, by fineness
3. Terminology
grade, of wool or mohair that is in the grease, pulled, washed,
3.1 Definitions:
or scoured state, or in the form of card sliver.
3.1.1 average fiber, diameter, n— in wool and other animal
1.2 Thesespecificationsareapplicablealsotoassignmentof
fibers,theaveragewidthofagroupoffiberswhenmeasuredon
grade for wool or mohair in spun materials or products
a projected image.
processed beyond carding on the woolen system but not on the
3.1.2 fineness, n—of textile fibers, a relative measure of
worsted system which involves a combing process.
size, diameter, linear density or mass per unit length expressed
NOTE 1—For fineness specifications for wool top, mohair top, and
in a variety of units.
alpaca, refer to Specifications D 3992 and D 2252.
3.1.2.1 Discussion—The fineness of wool and other animal
fibers is expressed as the average fiber width or average fiber
2. Referenced Documents
diameter in micrometres (µm).
2.1 ASTM Standards:
3.1.3 grade, n—in wool and mohair, a numerical designa-
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
tion used in classifying wool and mohair in their raw, semi-
D 2130 Test Method for Diameter of Wool and Other
processed, and processed forms based on average fiber diam-
Animal Fibers by Microprojection
eter and variation of fiber diameter.
D 2252 Specification for Fineness of Types of Alpaca
3.1.3.1 Discussion—This specification expresses the varia-
D 3992 Specification for Fineness of Wool Top or Mohair
tion in fiber diameter by means of the standard deviation of the
Top and Assignments of Grade
fiber diameter measurements.
2.2 Federal Standards:
3.1.3.2 The term “grade” should not be confused with the
Official Standards of the United States for Grades of Wool,
terms “quality” and “type.” “Quality” is a term that includes
Section 31.0
not only fineness but also characteristics such as length, crimp,
Measurement Method for Determining Grade of Wool,
strength, elasticity, luster, tactile hand, and color, all of which
Section 31.204
affect the spinnability of the fiber and the properties of the
Official Standards of the United States for Grades of Grease
resultingyarnandfabric.TheBradforddesignations,forwhich
Mohair, Section 32.1
no standards exist, use a scale similar to that for grade
Measurement Method for Determining Grade of Grease
designations (for example: 64s, 56s, and so forth) and refer to
Mohair, Section 32.204
quality and not solely to fineness. “Type” is a term designating
a particular combination of characteristics applicable to a
NOTE 2—A discussion on the development of grease mohair standards
specific use or descriptive of geographical origin, breed of
sheep, or preparation for market.
3.1.4 mohair, n—the hair of the Angora goat, Capra spe-
cies.
3.1.5 wool, n—the fibrous covering of the sheep, Ovis
These specifications are under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D-13 on
species.
Textiles and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and
Wool Felt. 3.1.6 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
Current edition approved Dec. 15, 1994. Published April 1995. Originally
specification, refer to Terminology D 123.
e1
publishedasD 3991–81.LastpreviouseditionD 3991–85 (1991) .ReplacesD 419
and D 3109.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Keller, H. R., Ray, H. D., Lineberry, C. T., and Pohle, E. M., “Fineness
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on RelationshipofGreaseMohair,CardSliver,andTop,” Textile Research Journal,Vol
the ASTM website. 42, No. 2, February 1971.
3 6
Federal Register, Vol 30, No. 161, Aug. 20, 1965, pp 10829–10833. ASTM Research Report No. D13 – 1012. A copy is available from ASTM
Federal Register, Vol 36, No. 129, July 3, 1971, pp 12681–12685. Headquarters, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, West Conshohocken, PA 19428.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 3991 – 94 (2000)
A
TABLE 2 Specifications for Grades of Mohair
4. Requirements
Range for Average Fiber Standard Deviation,
4.1 The grade of wool shall conform to the requirements of
Grade
Diameter, µm max, µm
Table 1.
Finer than 40s under 23.01 7.2
4.2 The grade of mohair shall conform to the requirements
40s 23.01 to 25.00 7.6
of Table 2.
36s 25.01 to 27.00 8.0
32s 27.01 to 29.00 8.4
30s 29.01 to 31.00 8.8
5. Significance and Use
28s 31.01 to 33.00 9.2
5.1 These specifications are considered satisfactory for clas- 26s 33.01 to 35.00 9.6
24s 35.01 to 37.00 10.0
sifying wool or mohair by grade and provide a basis for
22s 37.01 to 39.00 10.5
acceptance of commercial shipments.
20s 39.01 to 41.00 11.0
5.2 Grade determined by visual examination is a common 18s 41.01 to 43.00 11.5
Coarser than 18s over 43.01
trade practice. In case of doubt or dispute, comp
...