ASTM D4156-01(2008)

Standard Performance Specification for Women's and Girls' Knitted Sportswear Fabrics

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the requirements listed in Table 1 of this performance specification.
It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller.
In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D 4156 except for the following characteristic(s).”
Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, the requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only. As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.
The uses and significance of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specified test methods.
SCOPE
1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabrics comprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, used in women's and girl's sportswear.
1.2 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where each fabric direction is pertinent.  
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

General Information

• Status: Historical
• Publication Date: 31-Jul-2008
• ICS: 61.020 - Clothes
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.61 - Apparel

Relations

• Replaces: ASTM D4156-01 - Standard Performance Specification for Women's and Girls' Knitted Sportswear Fabrics
• Effective Date: 01-Aug-2008
• Referred By: ASTM D6321/D6321M-22 - Standard Practice for the Evaluation of Machine Washable T-Shirts
• Effective Date: 01-Aug-2008

Standards Content (Sample)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation:D4156 −01(Reapproved 2008)
Standard Performance Specification for
Women’s and Girls’ Knitted Sportswear Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D4156; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter
Method
1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabrics
124 1978 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after Re-
comprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, used in
peated Home Launderings
women’s and girl’s sportswear.
132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
1.2 These requirements apply to the length and width
135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering
directions for those properties where each fabric direction is
of Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics
pertinent.
172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laun-
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the
dering
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the 188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica- Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
Evaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic Transference
Scale
2. Referenced Documents
2.3 Federal Standard:
16 CFR, Chapter II—Consumer Product Safety Commission
2.1 ASTM Standards:
Subchapter D—Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations.
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
2.4 Military Standard:
D2594 Test Method for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics
MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for In-
Having Low Power
spection by Attributes
D2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated
Apparel Fabrics
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this standard give only the
D3786 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile
permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test
methods. The current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
Fabrics—Diaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
D3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textiles—
3. Terminology
Constant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT) Ball Burst Test
3 3.1 Definitions:
2.2 AATCC Methods:
3.1.1 sheer, n—a fabric that is transparently thin or diapha-
8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
nous.
15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
3.1.1.1 Discussion—There is no clear distinction between
16 Colorfastness to Light
sheerfabricsandnonsheerfabrics.Thepurchaserandtheseller
23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
should agree in advance as to which category a fabric is to be
61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering,
classified.
Commercial: Accelerated
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this
performance specification, refer to the individual ASTM and
This peformance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee
AATCC test methods and to Terminology D123.
D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on
Apparel.
4. Specification Requirements
Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originally
4.1 The properties of knitted fabrics for women’s and girls’
approved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D4156 – 01. DOI:
10.1520/D4156-01R08.
sportswear shall conform to the specification requirements in
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
Table 1.
contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website. Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office,
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists Washington, DC 20402.
(AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http:// AvailablefromStandardizationDocumentsOrderDesk,Bldg.4SectionD,700
www.aatcc.org. Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D4156−01 (2008)
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—Class in colorfastness is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change or
color transfer.
Requirements
Characteristic Section
Sheer Fabric Nonsheer Fabrics
A
Bursting strength (ball burst) 133 N (30 lbf), min 222 N (50 lbf), min 7.1
Dimensional change:
Pressing and finishing 2 % max 2 % max 7.2.1
Laundering (see 7.2.2.2) 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2
Drycleaning 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.3
Colorfastness:
Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1
B B
Shade change, original Class 4 min Class 4 min
B B
Shade change, after laundering or one drycleaning Class 4 min Class 4 min
Laundering: 7.3.2
B B
Shade change Class 4 min Class 4 min
C C
Class 3 min Class 3 min
Staining
Drycleaning: 7.3.3
B B
Shade change Class 4 min Class 4 min
Crocking: 7.3.4
D D
Dry Class 4 min Class 4 min
D D
Class 3 min Class 3 min
Wet
Perspiration 7.3.5
B B
Shade change Class 4 min Class 4 min
C C
Class 3 min Class 3 min
Staining
B B
Light (40AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4 min Step 4 min 7.3.6
B B
Chlorine Bleach Class 4 , min Class 4 ,min 7.3.7
B B
Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4 , min Class 4 ,min 7.3.8
Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1) DP 3.5 min DP 3.5 min 7.4
Flammability pass pass 7.5
A
There is more than one standard method that can be used to measure bursting strength, and lightfastness. These methods cannot be used interchangeably since there
may be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Note 3, and Note 8).
B
AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.
C
AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.
D
AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.
5. Significance and Use specification or other agreement between the purchaser and the
supplier, such as an agreement to use MIL-STD-105D.
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the
seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the
6.2 Laboratory Sample—From each roll or piece in the lot
requirements listed in Table 1 of this performance specifica-
sample, cut two laboratory samples the full width of the fabric
tion.
and at least 375 mm (15 in.) along the selvage,
5.2 Itisrecognizedthatforpurposesoffashionoraesthetics
7. Test Methods (See Note 1)
the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may
find acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the 7.1 Bursting Strength—Determine the bursting strength as
requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the directed in Test Methods D3786 or D3787 as agreed between
requirements listed in Table 1 may be modified by mutual the purchaser and the seller.
agreement between the purchaser and the seller.
NOTE 2—Care should be taken to subtract the tare diaphragm pressure
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall
from the gross pressure to obtain actual bursting strength of fabric when
specify that: “This fabric meets ASTM Specification D4156
using the diaphragm bursting tester. Calibrate the equipment according to
except for the following characteristic(s).” the manufacturer’s instruction before use. Since there is no overall
correlation between the results obtained with the CRT machine equipped
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached
with a bursting attachment and the diaphragm bursting tester, these two
between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of
bursting test
...

This document is not anASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of anASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation:D4156–01 Designation: D 4156 – 01 (Reapproved 2008)
Standard Performance Specification for
Women’s and Girls’ Knitted Sportswear Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D 4156; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1 This performance specification covers knitted fabrics comprised of any textile fiber or mixture of fibers, used in women’s
and girl’s sportswear.
1.2 These requirements apply to the length and width directions for those properties where each fabric direction is pertinent.
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
limitations prior to use.
2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D 123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D 2594 Test MethodsMethod for Stretch Properties of Knitted Fabrics Having Low Power
D 2724 Test Methods for Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
D2905Practice for Statements on Number of Specimens for Textiles
D 3786Test Method for Hydraulic Bursting Strength of Knitted Goods and Nonwoven Fabrics: Diaphragm Bursting Strength
Tester Method Test Method for Bursting Strength of Textile FabricsDiaphragm Bursting Strength Tester Method
D 3787 Test Method for Bursting Strength of Knitted Goods: TextilesConstant-Rate-of-Traverse (CRT),(CRT) Ball Burst Test
2.2 AATCC Methods:
8 Colorfastness to Crocking: AATCC Crockmeter Method
15 Colorfastness to Perspiration
16 Colorfastness to Light
23 Colorfastness to Burnt Gas Fumes
61 Colorfastness to Washing, Domestic, and Laundering, Commercial: Accelerated
116 Colorfastness to Crocking: Rotary Vertical Crockmeter Method
124 1978 Appearance of Durable Press Fabrics after Repeated Home Launderings
132 Colorfastness to Drycleaning
135 Dimensional Changes in Automatic Home Laundering of Durable Press Woven or Knit Fabrics
172 Colorfastness to Non-chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
188 Colorfastness to Chlorine Bleach in Home Laundering
Evaluation Procedure 1 Gray Scale for Color Change
Evaluation Procedure 2 Gray Scale for Staining
Evaluation Procedure 3 AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale
2.3 Federal Standard:
16 CFR, Chapter II—Consumer Product Safety Commission Subchapter D—Flammable Fabrics Act Regulations.
2.4 Military Standard:
MIL-STD-105D Sampling Procedures and Tables for Inspection by Attributes
This specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved May 10, 2001. Published July 2001. Originally published as D4156–82. Last previous edition D4156–95.
This peformance specification is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.61 on Apparel.
Current edition approved Aug. 1, 2008. Published October 2008. Originally approved in 1982. Last previous edition approved in 2001 as D 4156 – 01.
For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
Discontinued; see 1997 Annual Book of ASTM Standards , Vol 07.02.
Available from American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC), P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709, http://www.aatcc.org.
Available from the American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists, P.O. Box 12215, Research Triangle Park, NC 27709.
Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.
Available from Superintendent of Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, DC 20402.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D 4156 – 01 (2008)
NOTE 1—Reference to test methods in this standard give only the permanent part of the designation of ASTM, AATCC, or other test methods. The
current editions of each test method cited shall prevail.
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 sheer, n—a fabric that is transparently thin or diaphanous.
3.1.1.1 Discussion—There is no clear distinction between sheer fabrics and nonsheer fabrics. The purchaser and the seller
should agree in advance as to which category a fabric is to be classified.
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this performance specification, refer to the individualASTM andAATCC test
methods and to Terminology D 123.
4. Specification Requirements
4.1 The properties of knitted fabrics for women’s and girls’ sportswear shall conform to the specification requirements in Table
1.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 Upon mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller, fabrics intended for this end use should meet all of the
requirements listed in Table 1 of this performance specification.
5.2 It is recognized that for purposes of fashion or aesthetics the ultimate consumer of articles made from these fabrics may find
acceptable fabrics that do not conform to all of the requirements in Table 1. Therefore, one or more of the requirements listed in
Table 1 may be modified by mutual agreement between the purchaser and the seller.
5.2.1 In such cases, any references to the specification shall specify that: “This fabric meetsASTM Specification D 4156 except
for the following characteristic(s).”
5.3 Where no prepurchase agreement has been reached between the purchaser and the seller, and in case of controversy, the
requirements listed in Table 1 are intended to be used as a guide only.As noted in 5.2, ultimate consumer demands dictate varying
performance parameters for any particular style of fabric.
Available from Standardization Documents Order Desk, Bldg. 4 Section D, 700 Robbins Ave., Philadelphia, PA 19111-5094, Attn: NPODS.
TABLE 1 Specification Requirements
NOTE 1—Class in colorfastness is based on a numerical scale of 5 for negligible color change or color transfer to 1 for very severe color change or
color transfer.
Requirements
Characteristic Section
Sheer Fabric Nonsheer Fabrics
A
Bursting strength (ball burst) 133 N (30 lbf), min 222 N (50 lbf), min 7.1
Dimensional change:
Pressing and finishing 2 % max 2 % max 7.2.1
Laundering (see 7.2.2.2) 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.2
Drycleaning 3 % max 3 % max 7.2.3
Colorfastness:
Burnt gas fumes, 2 cycles: 7.3.1
B B
Shade change, original Class 4 min Class 4 min
B B
Shade change, after laundering or one drycleaning Class 4 min Class 4 min
Laundering: 7.3.2
B B
Shade change Class 4 min Class 4 min
C C
Staining Class 3 min Class 3 min
Drycleaning: 7.3.3
B B
Shade change Class 4 min Class 4 min
Crocking: 7.3.4
D D
Dry Class 4 min Class 4 min
D D
Wet Class 3 min Class 3 min
Perspiration 7.3.5
B B
Shade change Class 4 min Class 4 min
C C
Staining Class 3 min Class 3 min
B B
Light (40AATCC FU) (xenon-arc) Step 4 min Step 4 min 7.3.6
B B
Chlorine Bleach Class 4 , min Class 4 , min 7.3.7
B B
Non-chlorine Bleach Class 4 , min Class 4 , min 7.3.8
Fabric appearance (see 7.4.1.1) DP 3.5 min DP 3.5 min 7.4
Flammability pass pass 7.5
A
Thereismorethanonestandardmethodthatcanbeusedtomeasureburstingstrength,andlightfastness.Thesemethodscannotbeusedinterchangeablysincethere
may be no overall correlation between them (see Note 2, Note 3, and Note 8).
B
AATCC Gray Scale for Color Change.
C
AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.
D
AATCC Chromatic Transference Scale.
D 4156 – 01 (2008)
5.4 The uses and significance of particular properties and test methods are discussed in the appropriate sections of the specifi
...