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ASTM D1244-98(2020)

(Practice)

Standard Practice for Designation of Yarn Construction

Standard Practice for Designation of Yarn Construction

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
6.1 The two orders of notation are presented to satisfy two separate needs encountered in the textile industry and in textile technology. The single-to-ply notation meets the needs of yarn manufacturers to describe a single yarn, or a plied or cabled yarn primarily in terms of its manufacturing specifications. The ply-to-single notation, based on the resultant yarn number, meets the needs of users of yarn who have relatively little interest in the linear density or twist of the single yarn component(s) but are interested mainly in the final product. The chief difference between the two notations is the order in which the information is presented. In this practice the same symbols are used for both notations and retain their usual mathematical meanings.  
6.2 The single-to-ply notation is prescribed for yarns numbered in both direct and indirect yarn numbering systems and conforms with current usage in large sections of the textile industry. The ply-to-single notation is prescribed for yarns numbered in a direct yarn numbering system and its use is approved by the ISO/TC 38 in Document N362. This latter notation has not been included previously in Practice D1244. The ply-to-single notation has not been recommended for use with yarns numbered in indirect yarn numbering systems because of possible confusion when symbols are used with different meanings in different notations or used in conflict with their established mathematical significance.  
6.3 At first glance, the recommended notation may appear rather involved, but in actuality it is a concise method for describing complex structures. For example, compare the following description of a yarn: “A cabled yarn or cord with a resultant cotton count of 1.4 and 5 turns per inch of Z twist made from 3 strands of plied yarn with 9 turns per inch of S twist each plied from 5 strands of 24 cotton count yarn with 15 turns per inch of Z twist and spun from 11/16 in. staple, graded strict low middling, and having a Micronai...
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1.1 This practice covers instructions for the designation of yarn construction and is applicable to single yarns, plied yarns, and cabled yarns or cords of filaments or spun fibers. The application of the practice to specific cases is illustrated with examples. This practice does not cover the description of novelty yarns or core spun yarns of various types.  
1.2 The primary purpose of this practice is to establish a reference system for use in the trade and particularly for use in correspondence and publications. To secure a simplified notation, certain portions may be omitted provided there is no doubt as to the omitted parts.  
1.3 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as standard. No other units of measurement are included in this standard.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

Status
Published
Publication Date
31-Jan-2020
ICS
59.080.20 - Yarns
Technical Committee
D13 - Textiles
Drafting Committee
D13.58 - Yarns and Fibers
Current Stage
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ASTM D1244-98(2020) - Standard Practice for Designation of Yarn Construction
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This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D1244 − 98 (Reapproved 2020)
Standard Practice for
1
Designation of Yarn Construction
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1244; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision.Anumber in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval.A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
INTRODUCTION
This practice conforms in general with the practices adopted by the International Organization for
Standardization in Document ISO 1139, Designation of Yarns. The ISO document, however, covers
the use of the tex direct yarn numbering system only, whereasASTM Practice D1244, as in previous
texts, also covers other direct yarn numbering systems and traditional indirect yarn numbering
systems.
1. Scope 2. Referenced Documents
2
1.1 This practice covers instructions for the designation of 2.1 ASTM Standards:
yarnconstructionandisapplicabletosingleyarns,pliedyarns, D123Terminology Relating to Textiles
and cabled yarns or cords of filaments or spun fibers. The D861PracticeforUseoftheTexSystemtoDesignateLinear
application of the practice to specific cases is illustrated with Density of Fibers, Yarn Intermediates, and Yarns
examples. This practice does not cover the description of D4849Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
3
novelty yarns or core spun yarns of various types. 2.2 ISO Standard:
ISO 1139Designation of Yarns
1.2 The primary purpose of this practice is to establish a
reference system for use in the trade and particularly for use in
3. Terminology
correspondence and publications. To secure a simplified
3.1 For terminology related to yarn test methods see Termi-
notation, certain portions may be omitted provided there is no
nology D4849.
doubt as to the omitted parts.
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:
1.3 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded
resultant yarn number.
asstandard.Nootherunitsofmeasurementareincludedinthis
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms related to textiles,
standard.
refer to Terminology D123.
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
4. Explanation of Abbreviations and Symbols
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
4.1 B—A symbol designating the resultant yarn number of
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
bulked yarns, to be placed before the numerical value.
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
4.2 R—A symbol designating the resultant yarn number of
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
plied or cabled yarns, to be placed before the numerical value.
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
4.3 ×—The multiplication symbol is used before the num-
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
ber of identical component strands combined in any stage of
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
manufacture for yarns numbered in a direct yarn numbering
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
system.
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
1
ThispracticeisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextilesand contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers. Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2020. Published February 2020. Originally the ASTM website.
3
approvedin1952.Lastpreviouseditionapprovedin2011asD1244–98(2011).DOI: Available fromAmerican National Standards Institute (ANSI), 25 W. 43rd St.,
10.1520/D1244-98R20. 4th Floor, New York, NY 10036, http://www.ansi.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1

---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
D1244 − 98 (2020)
4.4 +—The plus sign is used to denote the addition or technology. The single-to-ply notation meets the needs of yarn
combination of dissimilar component strands in a more com- manufacturers to describe a single yarn, or a plied or cabled
plex structure. yarnprimarilyintermsofitsmanufacturingspecifications.The
ply-to-single notation, based on the resultant yarn number,
4.5 /—When used with direct yarn numbers, the solidus
meets the needs of users of yarn who have relatively little
denotes the separation of a structure numbered in a direct yarn
interes
...

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5.3 The extension force of manufactured filament yarns is related to the alignment of the molecules in the yarn filaments, which influences the yarn processing behavior. Knowledge of this property of partially oriented yarn is useful to determine processing conditions.
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This is a quick method used for the determination of the approximate yarn number of short-length specimens taken from packages or fabrics.  
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D6612 for yarn number and yarn number variability is satisfactory for acceptance of commercial shipments and is used in the trade.  
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between the reported test results for two or more laboratories, comparative tests should be performed by those laboratories to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, samples used for each comparative tests should be as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that results in disparate results during initial testing, and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. Other fabrics with established tests values are used for this purpose. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared appropriate statistical analysis and a probability level chosen by the two parties before testing begins, at a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results adjusted in consideration of the known bias.  
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1.1 This test method covers the measurement of yarn number up to 4000 dtex (3600 denier) and related variability properties of filament and spun yarns using an automated tester with capability for measuring mass variability characteristics.  
1.2 Yarn number variability properties include percent density spread (%DS), coefficient of variation (%CV), density frequency variation.  
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1.3 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore to ensure conformance with this standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.  
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ASTM D2258/D2258M-16(2022)(Practice)
Standard Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Assigning a value to any property of the material in a container or in a lot, consignment, or delivery involves a measurement process that includes both sampling and testing procedures. The correctness of the value assigned depends upon the variability due to testing and sampling plan. Even when the variability due to testing is minimized by carefully developed procedures, correct and consistent estimates of the true value of the property are possible only when the sampling procedure avoids systematic bias, minimizes variations due to sampling, and provides a laboratory sample of adequate size.  
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1.1 This practice describes a procedure for the division of shipments of yarn into test lots and the sampling of such lots for testing.  
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ASTM D1423/D1423M-16(2022)(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D1423 for testing twist in yarns by direct-counting is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments because current estimates of between-laboratory precision are acceptable and the method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.  
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative tests should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum use the samples for such comparative tests as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material that resulted in the disparate test results and randomly in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, at a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.  
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5.4 When a yarn is incorporated into or removed from a more complex structure, alterations may occur as a result of ...
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount and direction of twist at the completion of any stage of twisting in single (spun or filament), plied, cabled, or novelty (exclusive of long-term repeat patterns) yarns. The procedures are designed primarily for yarns in packages, but, with special precautions, they are applicable to yarns taken from fabrics. The procedure for spun yarn in 9.2 is also applicable to rovings.  
1.2 For plied yarns, this test method covers the determination of the twist of the plied yarns and the twist of the single yarn before plying. For cabled yarns, the test method covers the determination of the cable or hawser twist; the twist of the plied yarn after plying, but prior to the last twisting operation; and the twist of the single yarn before plying. Procedures are also included for the determination of the twists of the single and plied yarn components as they lie in the final structure. Also, directions are included for the determination of twist in plied yarn made with direct cabling technology.  
1.3 This test method is not intended for yarns that extend more than 5.0 % when tension is increased from 2.5 to 7.5 mN/tex [0.25 to 0.75 gf/tex]. Following the procedures of this test method for such yarns would be independent of the bias and precision determined for this test method. The report from such testing should include the tension used for this testing.  
1.4 Units—The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore, to ensure conformance with the standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.
Note 1: For a more rapid but less accurate method of determining twist in single spun yarns, refer to Test Method D1422.
Note 2: This test method has been evaluated for use in de...

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ASTM
ASTM D2731-21(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Elastic Properties of Elastomeric Yarns (CRE Type Tensile Testing Machines)

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments since current estimates of between-laboratory precision are acceptable and the method is used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.  
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative tests should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use samples for such comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing, and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, at a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.  
5.2 Force at Specified Elongation (FASE) is a measure of the tensile force occurring while extending a textile material within specified limits. This characteristic of elastomeric yarn indicates the resistance that will have to be overcome by the wearer while putting on a garment made of the material and is also an indication of the garment's resistance to deformation caused by normal body movements during wear. The elongations used for these measurements are typically 100 %, 200 % and 300 %.  
5.3 Permanent Deformation (set) is a measure of the increase in length of an elastomeric yarn resulting from cyclic stretching and relaxation. The characteristic is a visible indication of the realignment of intermolecular bonds within the elastic material. As with stress decay, the amount of set increases with yarn extension; however, for any particular extension, little or no additional set takes place after...
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of elastic properties of “as produced” elastomeric yarns made from rubber, spandex or other elastomers. Elastic properties include force at specified elongations, permanent deformation and stress decay. Other hysteresis related properties can be calculated.
Note 1: For a method designed specifically for testing rubber threads, refer to Test Method D2433.  
1.2 This test method is not applicable to covered, wrapped, or core-spun yarns or yarns spun from elastomeric staple.  
1.3 This test method is applicable to elastomeric yarns having a range of 40 to 3200 dtex (36 to 2900 denier).  
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or U.S. Customary units are to be regarded separately as standard. Within the text, the U.S. Customary units are in parentheses. The values stated in each system are not exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM
ASTM D204-02(2021)(Test Method)
Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the individual test method. These test methods are the best available and are used extensively in the trade.  
4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more) comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
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1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing threads of any fiber.  
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.  
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not address any other properties that may be important for the satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular end use conditions.  
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the following properties:    
Sections  
Colorfastness to Drycleaning  
73 – 83  
Colorfastness to Laundering  
62 – 72  
Colorfastness to Water Migration  
84 – 94  
Diameter  
43 – 50  
Length per Thread Holder  
34 – 42  
Shrinkage, Single Strand  
51 – 61  
Dry Heat  
58.1  
Boiling Water  
58.2  
Strength and Elongation  
15 – 21  
Single Strand—Conditioned  
19.1.1  
Single Strand—Wet  
19.1.2  
Loop Strength  
19.2  
Knot Strength  
19.3  
Twist  
22 – 27  
Twist Balance  
28 – 33  
Yarn Number  
7 – 14
Note 1: For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test Methods D1683/D1683M and D3940.  
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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