ASTM E1490-11
(Guide)Standard Guide for Two Sensory Descriptive Analysis Approaches for Skin Creams and Lotions
Standard Guide for Two Sensory Descriptive Analysis Approaches for Skin Creams and Lotions
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
The procedures recommended in this guide can be used to assess the sensory characteristics before, during, and after usage of skin care products.
This guide is applicable to product categories that include skin lotions and creams, facial moisturizers, hand lotions and creams, anti-aging lotions and creams, suntan lotions, personal repellents, and other skin care products.
Procedures of the type described herein may be used to communicate perceived sensory properties within and between manufacturers and to the consumer through the media. These guidelines are suggested to meet the need for ascertaining the performance of experimental and commercial products.
These procedures are to be used by assessors who are screened for sensory acuity, trained to use their senses to evaluate products, and in the procedures outlined by the panel method of choice, either technical expert or consumer behavioral approach.
This guide provides suggested procedures and is not meant to exclude alternate procedures that may be effective in training skinfeel panels and providing sensory evaluation descriptions.
SCOPE
1.1 The objective of this guide is to provide procedures for two different descriptive analysis approaches that may be used to qualitatively describe the sensory attributes of skin creams and lotions and quantitatively measure their intensity, similarities, and differences over time. Descriptive analysis can be used to define the sensory experience of skin care products that can then be used to provide direction in product formulation, competitive assessment, ingredient substitutions, research guidance, and advertising claim substantiation.
1.2 Guidelines are provided to assist the reader in determining which approach best meets their research objectives, either the (1) technical expert or (2) consumer behavior approach to language development and evaluation.
1.3 Guidelines are provided for the selection and training of assessors, defining sensory attributes, measuring intensities on rating scales, developing procedures for the manipulation of the product alone and the product on the skin, product handling, and evaluation of skin condition before testing.
1.4 Units—The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as the standard. The values given in parentheses are mathematical conversions to SI units that are provided for information only and are not considered standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
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Designation: E1490 − 11
Standard Guide for
Two Sensory Descriptive Analysis Approaches for Skin
1
Creams and Lotions
This standard is issued under the fixed designation E1490; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope E253 Terminology Relating to Sensory Evaluation of Mate-
rials and Products
1.1 The objective of this guide is to provide procedures for
MNL 13 Manual on Descriptive Analysis Testing for Sen-
two different descriptive analysis approaches that may be used
sory Evaluation
to qualitatively describe the sensory attributes of skin creams
MNL 26 Sensory Testing Methods: Second Edition
and lotions and quantitatively measure their intensity,
similarities,anddifferences over time. Descriptive analysiscan
3. Terminology
be used to define the sensory experience of skin care products
that can then be used to provide direction in product
3.1 Terms used in this guide are in accordance with Termi-
formulation, competitive assessment, ingredient substitutions,
nology E253.
research guidance, and advertising claim substantiation.
3.2 Definitions:
1.2 Guidelines are provided to assist the reader in determin-
3.2.1 application, n—process of applying the skin care
ing which approach best meets their research objectives, either
product.
the (1) technical expert or (2) consumer behavior approach to
3.2.2 delivery, n—stage during which the product is dis-
language development and evaluation.
charged onto the finger(s) or skin.
1.3 Guidelines are provided for the selection and training of
3.2.3 panel leader/moderator, n—person who is responsible
assessors, defining sensory attributes, measuring intensities on
for conducting descriptive panels, protocols, and panel main-
rating scales, developing procedures for the manipulation of
tenance.
the product alone and the product on the skin, product
3.2.4 pick-up, n—stage during which the product is manipu-
handling, and evaluation of skin condition before testing.
lated between the fingers, as it might be after the product is
1.4 Units—The values stated in inch-pound units are to be
dispensed onto the finger or lifted from a jar.
regarded as the standard. The values given in parentheses are
3.2.5 reference anchors, n—products that are used to define
mathematical conversions to SI units that are provided for
intensities of a specific attribute.
information only and are not considered standard.
3.2.6 rub-out, n—stage during which the product is rubbed
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the
onto the skin.
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
4. Summary of Guide
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
4.1 Overview—This guide describes two approaches to the
descriptive analysis of skin care products; technical expert and
2. Referenced Documents
consumer behavior approaches. The appropriate approaches
2
2.1 ASTM Standards: for identifying, selecting, and training of assessors to evaluate
the intensity and duration of sensory characteristics for skin
care products are discussed. See Table 1.
1
This guide is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee E18 on Sensory
4.1.1 Technical Expert Approach—The technical expert ap-
Evaluation and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee E18.07 on Personal
proach for descriptive analysis is based in the training of
Care and Household Evaluation.
assessors on lexicon(s) and intensity references to create a
Current edition approved Sept. 1, 2011. Published March 2012. Originally
panel that performs as a calibrated human instrument. This
approved in 1992. Last previous edition approved in 2003 as E1490 – 03. DOI:
10.1520/E1490-11.
method uses a trained panel using descriptors that focus on
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
appearance and tactile qualities of products. Additionally,
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
evaluation of product fragrance can be performed using either
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
the ASTM website. the same panel or a separate panel. In both cases, the panel
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1
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E1490 − 11
TABLE 1 Overview of Technical Expert and Consumer Behavior Approaches
Technical Expert Approach Consumer Behavior Approach
Target panel size Ten to fifteen assessors T
...
This document is not anASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of anASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation:E1490–03
Standard Practice for Descriptive Skinfeel Analysis of Creams
and LotionsDesignation: E1490 – 11
Standard Guide for
Two Sensory Descriptive Analysis Approaches for Skin
1
Creams and Lotions
This standard is issued under the fixed designation E1490; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope
1.1The objective of this practice is to provide procedures that may be used in the design and analysis of studies of skin care
products that compare qualitatively and quantitatively various sensory attributes and their intensity (or strength) over time. These
properties can then be used to define the performance of skin care products to provide direction in product formulation, research
guidance, and claim substantiation.
1.2Guidelines are provided for the definition of each product attribute or term, range of the rating scales, procedures for the
manipulationofproductaloneandontheskin,selectionandtrainingofpanelists,handlingofproducts,andskinconditioningprior
to tests.
1.3
1.1 The objective of this guide is to provide procedures for two different descriptive analysis approaches that may be used to
qualitatively describe the sensory attributes of skin creams and lotions and quantitatively measure their intensity, similarities, and
differences over time. Descriptive analysis can be used to define the sensory experience of skin care products that can then be used
to provide direction in product formulation, competitive assessment, ingredient substitutions, research guidance, and advertising
claim substantiation.
1.2 Guidelines are provided to assist the reader in determining which approach best meets their research objectives, either the
(1) technical expert or (2) consumer behavior approach to language development and evaluation.
1.3 Guidelines are provided for the selection and training of assessors, defining sensory attributes, measuring intensities on
rating scales, developing procedures for the manipulation of the product alone and the product on the skin, product handling, and
evaluation of skin condition before testing.
1.4 Units—The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as the standard. The values given in parentheses are
mathematical conversions to SI units that are provided for information only and are not considered standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
limitations prior to use.
2. Referenced Documents
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
E253Terminology Relating to Sensory Evaluation of Materials and Products
E253 Terminology Relating to Sensory Evaluation of Materials and Products
MNL 13 Manual on Descriptive Analysis Testing for Sensory Evaluation
MNL 26 Sensory Testing Methods: Second Edition
1
This practiceguide is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee E18 on Sensory Evaluation of Materials and Products and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee
E 18.07 on Sensory Evaluation and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee E18.07 on Personal Care and Household Evaluation.
Current edition approved Feb. 10, 2003. Published February 2003. Originally approved in 1992. Last previous edition approved in 1997 as E1490 – 92 (1997). DOI:
10.1520/E1490-03.
Current edition approved Sept. 1, 2011. Published March 2012. Originally approved in 1992. Last previous edition approved in 2003 as E1490 – 03. DOI:
10.1520/E1490-11.
2
For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
1
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E1490 – 11
3. Terminology
3.1Definitions:
3.1.1Definitions of descriptive terms other than those given as follows appear in the procedure of Appendix X1
3.1 Terms used in this guide are in accordance with Terminology E253.
3.1.2afterfeel—the feel of the skin after application of the sample, with or without touching, usually measured at a set ti
...
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