ASTM D1683/D1683M-17e1
(Test Method)Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 The manufacturing of textile products uses seam engineering to determine the best combination of sewing thread, stitch type, seam type, and stitch density to construct the end use structure. These four seam engineering variables contribute to a textile product being able to achieve the maximum sewn seam strength performance and structural integrity when cut pieces of fabric are joined together.
5.1.1 It is known that for some textile structures the seam engineering variables are selected to meet a “one time performance requirement.” This means that following the “single incident” during which the maximum performance potential or capability of the textile structure has been met, it is expected to be discarded and replaced with another “new” unit. For example: an inflatable restraint in an automobile. Once deployed, it must be replaced; it cannot be re-used. Likewise, there are other textile structures, intended to be used multiple times, while also being subjected to various care and maintenance regimens.
5.1.2 This test method enables the fabric producer of woven fabrics, the textile producer, and other users of the test method to determine which seam engineering choices can be made relative to: sewing thread tex size; seam type; stitch type; and stitch density to determine the potential outcomes that can occur when a particular woven fabric is used:
(a) What is the maximum force at which sewn seam strength failure will enable products made with this fabric to be repaired?
(b) What is the highest seam efficiency percentage attained?
(c) What is the maximum force at which the sewn seam strength results in seam slippage that can cause yarn slippage, yarn displacement and fabric failure?
5.1.2.1 The maximum force at which sewn seam strength or the highest seam efficiency retained demonstrate failure of the stitching without causing the displacement of one or more fabric yarns from their original position mean that the product can be repaired. When the...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams.
1.1.1 The axis perpendicular to the sewn seam can represent either the warp yarn axis or filling yarn axis, the same axis tested when using grab Test Method D5034.
1.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric samples using one of two specific seam assemblies as shown in Table 1.
TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly SpecificationA
Fabric Mass: ≤ 4 oz/yd2 [130 g/m2]
Procedure A
Procedure B
Mass
up to 4 oz/yd2 [130 g/m2]
up to 4 oz/yd2 [130 g/m2]
Seam allowance
13 mm [0.5 in.]
13 mm [0.5 in.]
Needle:
Size
Metric 90 [0.036 in.]
Metric 90 [0.036 in.]
Finish
chrome
chrome
Point
thin ball (No. 1/No. 23)
thin ball (No. 1/No. 23)
Sewing thread size:
Spun Polyester
Tex 40
Tex 40
Polyester-Core
Tex 40
Tex 40
Seam Type
Ssa-1
Ssa-1
Stitch Type
301
401
Stitch Density
4.7 ± 1/2 stitches per centimetre
4.7 ± 1/2 stitches per centimetre
[12 ± 1/2 stitches per inch]
[12 ± 1/2 stitches per inch]
Fabric Mass: > 4 oz/yd2 [130 g/m2] ≤ 8 oz/yd2 [270 g/m2]
Procedure A
Procedure B
Mass
4 oz/yd2 [130 g/m2] up to 8 oz/yd2 270 g/m2
4 oz/yd2 [130 g/m2] up to 270 g/m2 [8 oz/yd2 ]
Seam Allowance
13 mm [0.5 in.]
13 mm [0.5 in.]
Needle:
Size
Metric 110 [0.044 in.]
Metric 110 [0.044 in.]
Finish
chrome
chrome
Point
ball
ball
Sewing Thread:
Spun Polyester
Tex 60
Tex 60
Polyester-Core
Tex 60
Tex 60
Seam type
SSa-1
SSa-1
Stitch type
301
401
Stitch density
3.1 ± 1/2 stitches per centimetre
3.1 ± 1/2 stitches per centimetre
[8 ± 1/2 stitches per inch]
[8.5 ± 1/2...
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´1
Designation:D1683/D1683M −17
Standard Test Method for
1
Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates the
year of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last
reapproval. A superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1
ε NOTE—In Table 1, the second and third column headings were corrected from “Fabric Mass: ≥ .” to “Fabric Mass:
>.” in September 2017.
INTRODUCTION
The structural integrity of textile products made of woven fabrics is dependent on how well the
pieces that are cut from rolls of fabric have been joined together. To measure this integrity requires
understanding the inter-relationship between two distinct test methods.
(a) The first evaluation is done by testing fabric using Test Method D5034. This standard is used to measure the resistance of
awovenfabrictoruptureinthewarpdirectionand,thefillingyarndirection.Thetestmethodmeasurestheforceneededtorupture
the fabric causing the destruction of the fabric and the loss of its structural integrity. This loss of structural integrity causes yarn
slippage, that is, the displacement and change of yarn spacing causing an irreversible fabric failure.
(b) Before completing the second evaluation, an analysis and determination of the anticipated failure mode needs to be
completed by the fabric weaver or textile product manufacturer. While the failure mode for a woven fabric textile product sewn
seam can demonstrate various and distinct levels, it is imperative to have agreement and understanding about the expected
performance or service life of the end use product. Is the seam engineering used to build the textile product intended to perform
for a “single incident” discarded and replaced, or is the end use product designed and engineered to be subjected to regular care
and maintenance to include repairs?
(c) Thesecondevaluationisdonebyusingthistestmethod,D1683/D1683M,totestfabricsectionsthathavebeencutandthen
sewntogetherusingproceduresthatselectaspecificcombinationofsewingthread,stitchtype,seamtype,andstitchdensity.These
are the seam engineering variables that determine which of the following outcomes can occur: (1) the fabric, at a force similar to
that when tested using Test Method D5034, will rupture adjacent to the stitch line causing the destruction and loss of fabric
integrity,andthefailureofthetextilestructure; (2)thesewingthreadusedinthespecificstitchconfigurationwillrupture,ataforce
less than 85 % of the fabric break strength, such that the fabric integrity will be sufficient to enable repair of the textile structure
along the same axis.
1. Scope 1.2 This test method is used when the maximum breaking
force measurement to rupture of a woven fabric sewn seam is
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in
required.
woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn
1.2.1 This test method is used when the seam efficiency
seams.
measurement of a woven fabric sewn seam is required.
1.1.1 The axis perpendicular to the sewn seam can represent
1.2.2 This test method is used to identify the sewn seam
either the warp yarn axis or filling yarn axis, the same axis
strength threshold at which the failure of the stitching occurs,
tested when using grab Test Method D5034.
without damage to the fabric, so that the textile product can be
1.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams ob-
repaired.
tained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with
1.2.3 This test method is used to identify the force at which
fabric samples using one of two specific seam assemblies as
seam strength results in slippage and displacement of warp
shown in Table 1.
yarns, filling yarns, or any combination of these yarns.
1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear perfor-
mance of a seam.
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units
Current edition approved March 1, 2017. Published April 2017. Originally
are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in
approved in 1990. Last previous edition approved in 2016 as D1683–16. DOI:
10.1520/D1683_D1683M-17E01. each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
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D1683/D1683M−17
A
TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly Specification
2 2
Fabric Mass:# 4 oz/yd [130 g/m
...
This document is not an ASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of an ASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
´1
Designation: D1683/D1683M − 17 D1683/D1683M − 17
Standard Test Method for
1
Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates the
year of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last
reapproval. A superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1
ε NOTE—In Table 1, the second and third column headings were corrected from “Fabric Mass: ≥ .” to “Fabric Mass:
>.” in September 2017.
INTRODUCTION
The structural integrity of textile products made of woven fabrics is dependent on how well the
pieces that are cut from rolls of fabric have been joined together. To measure this integrity requires
understanding the inter-relationship between two distinct test methods.
(a) The first evaluation is done by testing fabric using Test Method D5034. This standard is used to measure the resistance of
a woven fabric to rupture in the warp direction and, the filling yarn direction. The test method measures the force needed to rupture
the fabric causing the destruction of the fabric and the loss of its structural integrity. This loss of structural integrity causes yarn
slippage, that is, the displacement and change of yarn spacing causing an irreversible fabric failure.
(b) Before completing the second evaluation, an analysis and determination of the anticipated failure mode needs to be
completed by the fabric weaver or textile product manufacturer. While the failure mode for a woven fabric textile product sewn
seam can demonstrate various and distinct levels, it is imperative to have agreement and understanding about the expected
performance or service life of the end use product. Is the seam engineering used to build the textile product intended to perform
for a “single incident” discarded and replaced, or is the end use product designed and engineered to be subjected to regular care
and maintenance to include repairs?
(c) The second evaluation is done by using this test method, D1683/D1683M, to test fabric sections that have been cut and then
sewn together using procedures that select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch type, seam type, and stitch density. These
are the seam engineering variables that determine which of the following outcomes can occur: (1) the fabric, at a force similar to
that when tested using Test Method D5034, will rupture adjacent to the stitch line causing the destruction and loss of fabric
integrity, and the failure of the textile structure; (2) the sewing thread used in the specific stitch configuration will rupture, at a force
less than 85 % of the fabric break strength, such that the fabric integrity will be sufficient to enable repair of the textile structure
along the same axis.
1. Scope
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams.
1.1.1 The axis perpendicular to the sewn seam can represent either the warp yarn axis or filling yarn axis, the same axis tested
when using grab Test Method D5034.
1.1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric samples
using one of two specific seam assemblies as shown in Table 1.
1.2 This test method is used when the maximum breaking force measurement to rupture of a woven fabric sewn seam is
required.
1.2.1 This test method is used when the seam efficiency measurement of a woven fabric sewn seam is required.
1.2.2 This test method is used to identify the sewn seam strength threshold at which the failure of the stitching occurs, without
damage to the fabric, so that the textile product can be repaired.
1.2.3 This test method is used to identify the force at which seam strength results in slippage and displacement of warp yarns,
filling yarns, or any combination of these yarns.
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
Current edition approved March 1, 2017. Published April 2017. Originally approved in 1990. Last previous edition approved in 2016 as D1683–16. DOI:
10.1520/D1683_D1683M-17.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1
---------------------- Page: 1 ------------
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