ASTM D3775-17(2023)

Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments because it has been used extensively in the trade for that purpose.  
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative test that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.  
5.1.2 This test method is suitable for use with narrow fabrics when the count across the total width is measured in the narrow direction and extrapolated to the number of yarns per centimeter (inch).
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of end (warp) and pick (filling) count and is applicable to all types of woven fabrics.  
Note 1: Historically, the term fabric count has been used to describe the end and pick count of woven fabrics. The terms end count and pick count are replacing the term fabric count, to provide clarity.  
1.2 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the standard. The values given in parentheses are for information only.  
1.2.1 Throughout this document, there will be some instances in which the units do not convert 1:1. This is to acknowledge that this is a global document and that different parts of the world use different units of measurement. Organizations using the metric system wil report the count per 1 cm. Organizations using the English system will report the count per 1 in.  
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
Note 2: For a current test method for the wale and course count of weft knitted fabrics, refer to Test Method D8007.  
1.4 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 31-Dec-2022
• ICS: 59.080.30 - Textile fabrics
• Technical Committee: D13 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: D13.60 - Fabric Physical Test Methods B

Relations

• Refers: ASTM D8007-15(2019) - Standard Test Method for Wale and Course Count of Weft Knitted Fabrics
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2019
• Refers: ASTM D7023-06(2018) - Standard Terminology Relating to Home Furnishings
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2018
• Refers: ASTM D4850-13(2017) - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
• Effective Date: 15-Jul-2017
• Refers: ASTM D123-17 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Mar-2017
• Refers: ASTM D123-15b - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Sep-2015
• Refers: ASTM D8007-15e1 - Standard Test Method for Wale and Course Count of Weft Knitted Fabrics
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2015
• Refers: ASTM D8007-15 - Standard Test Method for Wale and Course Count of Weft Knitted Fabrics
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2015
• Refers: ASTM D123-15 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 01-Apr-2015
• Refers: ASTM D4850-13e1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2013
• Refers: ASTM D4850-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13ae1 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13a - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-Jun-2013
• Refers: ASTM D123-13 - Standard Terminology Relating to Textiles
• Effective Date: 15-May-2013
• Refers: ASTM D7023-06(2012) - Standard Terminology Relating to Home Furnishings
• Effective Date: 01-Jul-2012

Overview

ASTM D3775-17(2023): Standard Test Method for End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics is a globally recognized standard developed by ASTM International. This test method covers the measurement of end (warp) and pick (filling) count in all types of woven fabrics, providing clear guidance for textile professionals and laboratories. The standard ensures consistency and reliability in fabric analysis, supporting quality control, specification adherence, and trade requirements in the textile industry. ASTM D3775-17(2023) applies to both metric (yarns per centimeter) and English (yarns per inch) reporting systems, reflecting its international applicability.

Key Topics

• End (Warp) Count: Quantifies the number of warp yarns along the fabric’s length per specified unit distance.
• Pick (Filling) Count: Measures the number of weft (filling) yarns per unit distance across the fabric width.
• Fabric Characterization: End and pick counts are essential indicators of woven fabric structure, quality, and potential performance.
• Test Procedures: Includes methods such as visual counting, raveling yarns, using magnification devices, and calculating averages across multiple samples.
• Reporting: Results are reported as ends by picks (e.g., 100 × 40), including the measurement distance, atmospheric test conditions, and specific sample information.
• Precision and Bias: The standard outlines approaches for identifying and correcting laboratory biases, including statistical procedures for interlaboratory comparisons.
• Applicability to Narrow Fabrics: Outlines how to measure and extrapolate counts for narrow woven fabrics.

Applications

ASTM D3775-17(2023) is widely used across the textile and apparel supply chain. Its primary uses include:

• Acceptance Testing: The method is well established for verifying commercial shipments and is relied on for procurement contracts and quality assurance.
• Quality Control in Textile Manufacturing: Factories, mills, and laboratories use it to ensure fabrics meet designated specifications.
• Research and Development: Textile engineers and product developers use fabric counts to inform new fabric constructions and performance evaluations.
• Trade and Specification Compliance: The standard supports clear communication between buyers and sellers by providing universally accepted terminology and measurement methods.
• Narrow Fabric Analysis: Provides guidance for accurately determining yarn counts in ribbons, tapes, and other narrow goods.
• Interlaboratory Consistency: Details procedures for resolving discrepancies in test results between different labs, supporting industry-wide reliability.

Related Standards

• ASTM D123: Terminology Relating to Textiles
• ASTM D1776: Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
• ASTM D4850: Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test Methods
• ASTM D7023: Terminology Relating to Home Furnishings
• ASTM D8007: Test Method for Wale and Course Count of Weft Knitted Fabrics
• ANSI/ASQC Z1.4: Inspection by Attributes

Practical Value

Adopting ASTM D3775-17(2023) ensures that fabric suppliers, manufacturers, and buyers maintain high standards for woven fabric analysis. The method’s standardized approach to measuring end and pick counts helps prevent quality disputes, reduces variability between laboratories, and builds trust in textile supply chains. Its suitability for both metric and imperial reporting systems accommodates the needs of global organizations. By consistently applying this standard, companies achieve greater accuracy in fabric construction assessment, leading to better product performance and customer satisfaction.

Standards Content (Sample)

This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D3775 − 17 (Reapproved 2023)
Standard Test Method for
End (Warp) and Pick (Filling) Count of Woven Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3775; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1. Scope 2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of end (warp)
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
and pick (filling) count and is applicable to all types of woven
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
fabrics.
D4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test
NOTE 1—Historically, the term fabric count has been used to describe
Methods
the end and pick count of woven fabrics. The terms end count and pick
D7023 Terminology Relating to Home Furnishings
count are replacing the term fabric count, to provide clarity.
D8007 Test Method for Wale and Course Count of Weft
Knitted Fabrics
1.2 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as the
standard. The values given in parentheses are for information
2.2 Other Standard:
only.
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4—Inspection by Attributes
1.2.1 Throughout this document, there will be some in-
3. Terminology
stances in which the units do not convert 1:1. This is to
acknowledge that this is a global document and that different
3.1 For all terminology related to D13.59, Fabric Test
parts of the world use different units of measurement. Organi-
Methods, General, refer to Terminology D4850
zations using the metric system wil report the count per 1 cm.
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:
Organizations using the English system will report the count count, end, end count, filling, pick, pick count, thread count.
per 1 in.
3.2 For all terminology related to Home Furnishings, refer
to Terminology D7023.
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
3.3 For all other terms related to textiles, refer to Terminol-
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
ogy D123.
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
4. Summary of Test Method
4.1 The number of ends per unit distance and picks per unit
NOTE 2—For a current test method for the wale and course count of
distance are determined using suitable magnifying and count-
weft knitted fabrics, refer to Test Method D8007.
ing devices or by raveling yarns from fabrics. See ANSI Z1.4.
1.4 This international standard was developed in accor-
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
5. Significance and Use
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for accep-
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
tance testing of commercial shipments because it has been used
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
extensively in the trade for that purpose.
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance be-
tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more),
comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Fabric contact ASTM Customer Service at [e-mail]. For Annual Book of ASTM
Physical Test Methods B Standards volume information, refer tot he standard’s Document Summary page on
Current edition approved Jan. 1, 2023. Published August 2023. Replaces the ASTM website.
Sections 28 to 34 of Methods D1910 – 64 (1975). Originally approved in 1979. Last Available from American National Standards Institute, 11 W. 42nd St., 13th
ɛ1
previous edition approved in 2017 as D3775 – 17 . DOI: 10.1520/D3775-17R23. Floor, New York, NY 10036.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D3775 − 17 (2023)
statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assis- 9. Procedure
tance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative
9.1 General:
test that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same
9.1.1 Count the number of ends and picks in five randomly
lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results
spaced places diagonally across the width of the laboratory
during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers
sampling unit. For specific distances to count, see 9.3.
to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories
9.1.2 Round all counts to the nearest whole yarn contained
involved should be compared using a statistical test for
in the distance counted.
unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing
series. If bias is found, either its cause must be found and
9.1.3 When two yarns are laid-in together and parallel,
corrected, or future test results for that material must be
count each yarn separately, as a single unit, regardless of
adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
whether it is comprised of single or plied components.
5.1.2 This test method is suitable for use with narrow fabrics
9.2 Specific Fabric Widths:
when the count across the total width is measured in the narrow
9.2.1 For fabric widths of 100 cm (40 in.) or more, make no
direction and extrapolated to the number of yarns per centime-
count closer than 15 cm (6 in.) from the selvage edge, or within
ter (inch).
50 cm (20 in.) from the end of the roll or piece.
9.2.2 For fabric widths of less than 100 cm (40 in.) but
6. Apparatus
greater than 12.5 cm (5 in.), make no count closer than one
6.1 Use any suitable device, such as pick glass, rule and
tenth of the width of the fabric from the selvage edge, or within
pointer, microfilm reader, or projection equipment. The use of
50 cm (20 in.) from the end of the roll or piece.
optical sensing equipment may be used as agreed upon by the
9.2.3 For narrow fabrics constructed with widths of 12.5 cm
purchaser and supplier.
(5 in.) or less, use the full width of the fabric, but make no
6.2 Use a scale graduated in mm ( ⁄16-in.) to measure the
count within 50 cm (20 in.) from the end of the roll or piece.
distance over which thread counts were taken.
9.3 Specific Fabric Counts:
7. Sampling
9.3.1 For fabrics containing 10 yarns per cm (25 yarns per
in.) or more, count the ends over 2.5 cm (1 in.) of width in five
7.1 Lot Sample—As a lot sample for acceptance testing,
different, randomly selected places across the width of the
take at random the number of rolls of fabric as directed in an
laboratory sampling unit, and count the picks over a 2.5 cm (1
applicable material specification or other agreement between
in.) length in five different, randomly selected places along the
the purchaser and the supplier. Consider rolls of fabric to be the
length of the laboratory sampling unit.
primary sampling units.
9.3.1.1 When the coefficient of variation for five counts is
7.2 Laboratory Sample— As a laboratory sample, take a full
higher than 5 %, make five additional counts and average the
width swatch at least 2 m (2 yd) long from each roll of fabric
results of the ten readings.
in the lot sample. Consider each designated place at which end
9.3.2 For fabrics containing less than 10 yarns per cm (25
counts and pick counts are made as a test specimen.
yarns per in.), count the number of ends over a 7.5 cm (3 in.)
NOTE 3—For specimens not obtained as directed in Section 7, the
width, in five randomly selected places across the width of the
results should not be used for acceptance testing of a lot.
laboratory sampling unit, and count the number of picks over
a 7.5 cm (3 in.) length in five randomly selected places along
8. Conditioning
the length of the laboratory sampling unit.
8.1 Condition specimens as directed in Practice D1776.
9.3.2.1 When the coefficient of variation for five counts in a
8.2 Fabrics woven from yarns having a relatively low
7.5 cm (3 in.) width is higher than 5 %, discard those readings
moisture regain in the standard atmosphere for testing textiles, and make five fresh counts over a 12.5 cm (5 in.) width.
which is 21 °C 6 2 °C (70 °F 6 4 °F) and 65 % 6 5 %
9.3.3 In fancy weaves, where one or more yarns do not
relative humidity, and which are not significantly affected by
appear at regular, short intervals, make count measurements
minor variations in different atmospheric conditions, for
over at least one full pattern repeat of each design in the weave.
example, nylons, acrylics, and polyesters, may be tested
Count the number of ends over each design repeat in five
without preconditioning. Fabrics woven from yarns composed
different, randomly selected places across the width of the
wholly or in part from wool, rayon, cotton, or acetate are more
laboratory sampling unit, and count the number of picks over
sensitive to atmospheric changes and
...