ASTM E1490-92(1997)

Standard Practice for Descriptive Skinfeel Analysis of Creams and Lotions

SCOPE
1.1 The objective of this practice is to provide procedures that may be used in the design and analysis of studies of skin care products that compare qualitatively and quantitatively various sensory attributes and their intensity (or strength) over time. These properties can then be used to define the performance of skin care products to provide direction in product formulation, research guidance, and claim substantiation.
1.2 Guidelines are provided for the definition of each product attribute or term, range of the rating scales, procedures for the manipulation of product alone and on the skin, selection and training of panelists, handling of products, and skin conditioning prior to tests.
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety problems, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

General Information

• Status: Historical
• Publication Date: 09-Sep-1997
• ICS: 71.100.70 - Cosmetics. Toiletries
• Technical Committee: E18 - Sensory Evaluation
• Drafting Committee: E18.07 - Personal Care and Household Evaluation

Relations

• Replaced By: ASTM E1490-03 - Standard Practice for Descriptive Skinfeel Analysis of Creams and Lotions
• Effective Date: 10-Feb-2003
• Referred By: ASTM E3288-22 - Standard Guide for Screening and Training of Assessors and a General Approach for the Sensory Evaluation of Oral Care Products: Toothpaste and Toothbrushes
• Effective Date: 10-Sep-1997

Standards Content (Sample)

NOTICE: This standard has either been superceded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
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Designation: E 1490 – 92 (Reapproved 1997)
Standard Practice for
Descriptive Skinfeel Analysis of Creams and Lotions
This standard is issued under the fixed designation E 1490; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (e) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 3.1.5 panel leader—a person who is responsible for con-
ducting descriptive panels and control product, protocols, and
1.1 The objective of this practice is to provide procedures
panel maintenance.
that may be used in the design and analysis of studies of skin
3.1.6 pick-up—the stage during which the product is ma-
care products that compare qualitatively and quantitatively
nipulated between the fingers.
various sensory attributes and their intensity (or strength) over
3.1.7 reference anchors—products that are used to demon-
time. These properties can then be used to define the perfor-
strate high or low intensities of a particular attribute.
mance of skin care products to provide direction in product
3.1.8 rub-out—the stage during which the product is rubbed
formulation, research guidance, and claim substantiation.
onto the skin.
1.2 Guidelines are provided for the definition of each
3.1.9 waxy—a rigid, dry, somewhat resistant residue.
product attribute or term, range of the rating scales, procedures
for the manipulation of product alone and on the skin, selection
4. Summary of Practice
and training of panelists, handling of products, and skin
4.1 This practice provides for the identification of panelists
conditioning prior to tests.
selected and trained appropriately to evaluate the intensity and
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the
duration of defined sensory characteristics of skin care prod-
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
ucts. The details of specified procedures are defined in Sections
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
7 and 8 of this practice.
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
5. Significance and Use
2. Referenced Documents 5.1 The procedure recommended in this practice can be
used to assess the sensory appearance and tactile properties of
2.1 ASTM Standards:
lotions and creams or ointment.
E 253 Terminology Relating to Sensory Evaluation of Ma-
2 5.2 This practice is applicable to product categories that
terials and Products
include skin lotions and creams; facial moisturizers; hand
3. Terminology lotions and creams; and skin care products for which the
appearance and tactile properties need to be assessed.
3.1 Definitions—Definitions of descriptive terms other than
5.3 Procedures of the type described herein may be used to
those given as follows appear in the procedure of Appendix
communicate perceived sensory properties (appearance and
X1.
feel) between manufacturers and to the consumer through the
3.1.1 afterfeel—the feel of the skin after application of the
media. These guidelines are suggested to meet the need for
sample, with or without touching, usually measured at a set
ascertaining the performance of experimental or commercial
time interval.
samples.
3.1.2 delivery—the stage during which the product is dis-
5.4 These procedures are to be used by persons who have
charged onto the finger(s) or skin.
familiarized themselves with the procedures and have had
3.1.3 greasy—a somewhat thick, sticky, either slightly re-
previous experience with sensory evaluation.
sistant or slightly slippery film (for example, petrolatum).
5.5 This practice provides suggested procedures and is not
3.1.4 oily—a thin, slippery, non-sticky film (for example,
meant to exclude alternate procedures that may be effective in
mineral oil).
providing sensory evaluation descriptions.
6. Equipment
This practice is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee E-18 on Sensory
Evaluation of Materials and Products and is the direct responsibility of Subcom-
6.1 The following equipment may be used during the
mittee E 18.07 on Personal Care and Household Evaluation.
evaluation process.
Current edition approved Aug. 15, 1992. Published October 1992.
6.1.1 Template, used to outline the 2-in. (51-mm) diameter
Annual Book of ASTM Standards, Vol. 15.07.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
NOTICE: This standard has either been superceded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
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E 1490 – 92 (1997)
circles on the forearm. It assures that consistent, measured
areas are delineated for product application and evaluation (for
example, a flexible plastic material with 2-in. (51-mm) diam-
eter circles cut out for outlining with an appropriate marker).
6.1.2 Light Source/Viewing Conditions—A consistent light
source for each panelist is recommended for use during the
evaluation of shine. The type of light source will depend on the
specific nature of the product being evaluated. It is important
that all panelists receive the same amount of light on the arms
and the same angle of light, and that the distance from the test
site and light be the same for each panelist (for example,
high-intensity desk lamps).
6.1.3 Skin Thermometer.
6.1.4 Repeater Pipette.
6.1.5 Metronome.
6.1.6 Stopwatch.
6.1.7 Syringe.
6.1.8 Petri Dishes.
6.1.9 Weight Boats.
6.1.10 Hygrometer.
7. Panel Selection and Training
7.1 Objective—To select and train a panel of 10 to 15 judges
to evaluate the skinfeel properties (included in appearance,
pick-up, rub-out, and afterfeel stages) of lotions and creams
using a descriptive analysis method that quantifies several
sensory attributes over time.
7.2 Panel Section:
FIG. 1 Screening Questionnaire
7.2.1 Panelists are recruited from within a company or the
local community. The choice to use employees allows a
company to have the panelists on site and to keep proprietary
samples and information on site. The use of local community
residents allows a company to schedule more panel time per
week and provides a smaller risk to losing panelists both on a
daily basis and long term.
7.2.2 A large group of candidates are recruited from the
local community (50 to 75) by contacting community groups or
placing newspaper ads, or both. Candidates from within the
company are contacted by interoffice memo or notices posted
on bulletin boards. Prior to the prescreening questionnaire,
candidates should be informed of the time commitment for
training (orientation and practice sessions), the potential dura-
tion of the panel, the use of the panel, and the expectation of
each panelist in terms of commitment to the panel. The
prescreening questionnaire is recommended for determining
availability, interest, general knowledge of tactile properties,
ability to use descriptive words, and ability to use rating scales
(see Figs. 1-3).
7.2.3 The 20 to 30 candidates who score best on the
prescreening questionnaire (see 7.2.5 for criteria) participate in
the acuity screening phase (see Figs. 4 and 5). Candidates are
asked to rate the intensity of skinfeel attributes for three
samples chosen specifically to represent the range for the
FIG. 2 Touch Quiz
attributes tested. One attribute is chosen from each evaluation
category: appearance (for example, integrity of shape), pick-up
Two telethermometers that would satisfy the guidelines identified in this
(for example, firmness or stickiness), rub-out (for example,
practice are Telethermometer Model 44TA, marketed by YSI (Yellow Springs
ease to spread or whitening), and afterfeel (for example,
Instrument Company, Inc.), Yellow Springs, OH, or Digital Thermometer Model
No. 5650 from Markson Science, Inc., Del Mar, CA. greasiness or amount of residue). For rub-out and afterfeel
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E 1490 – 92 (1997)
FIG. 4 Rating Exercise
FIG. 3 Scaling Exercise
attributes, the three test products are applied in premeasured
FIG. 5 Descriptive Exercise
amounts to three 2-in. (51-mm) circles on each arm. Use one
arm for the rub-out evaluation and the other arm for the
afterfeel attribute. and work in a group dynamics situation, and availability for
7.2.3.1 Candidates should have at least two products (of the orientation, practice, and panel sessions on a routine basis (see
three tested) rated properly for three of the four attributes in Fig. 6).
order to qualify as having sensory acuity. 7.2.5 Select 10 to 15 panelists on the basis of the following
7.2.4 Each candidate is interviewed by the panel adminis- criteria (see Figs. 7-12):
trator or trainer to determine attitude, interest, ability to learn 7.2.5.1 Availability for the complete orientation and 80 to
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E 1490 – 92 (1997)
FIG. 8 Key for Touch Quiz (Fig. 2)
FIG. 6 Interview Questionnaire
FIG. 9 Key for Rating Exercise (Fig. 4)
central nervous system and could reduce skin and muscle
sensitivity;
FIG. 7 Key for Screening Questionnaire (Fig. 1)
7.2.5.3 Correct and comprehensive descriptive answers to
100 % of the practice sessions during training; 75 % or more of the open-ended tactile questions in the
7.2.5.2 No health-related problems: skin irritations, central prescreening questionnaire;
nervous system disorders, or medications that interfere with the 7.2.5.4 Correct ratings of 80 % or more of the scaling
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E 1490 – 92 (1997)
FIG. 10 Key for Descriptive Exercise (Fig. 5)
FIG. 12 Key for Scaling Exercise (Fig. 3)
7.3 Panel Orientation:
FIG. 11 Key for Interview Questionnaire (Fig. 6)
7.3.1 To begin training of the 10 to 15 selected panelists, the
panel trainer must orient panelists first to the general concepts,
exercise in the prescreening questionnaire; such as the definition, components, and applications of descrip-
7.2.5.5 Correct ratings for two samples (of the three per tive analysis testing. This takes 1 to 2 h.
attribute) for three of the four attribute scales; and 7.3.2 Panelists are introduced to the need for strictly con-
7.2.5.6 Demonstration of good verbal skills, a high interest trolled procedures for the manipulation and application of
in descriptive and group dynamics tasks, and a cooperative yet samples and for the careful definition of each sensory attribute.
confident personality demonstrated in the interview. This takes 1 to 2 h. (See Appendix X1 for procedures.)
NOTICE: This standard has either been superceded and replaced by a new version or discontinued.
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E 1490 – 92 (1997)
7.3.3 Discussion and demonstration of each skinfeel at- tored when reviewing data from the panel and panelists.
tribute are conducted for each stage: appearance, pick-up, 7.6.1 A measure of the variability within the panel (that is,
rub-out, and afterfeel. This establishes the overall structure of among panel members) can be determined with three replica-
the descriptive analysis of skinfeel properties. Panelists are tions of three samples for all attributes and all panelists. The
encouraged to discuss each term, its definition, the protocol for mean value and standard deviation for each sample for each
evaluation, and the corresponding rating scale after they are attribute is computed. The panelists and panel leader can then
demonstrated by the panel trainer. This takes 2 h (see Appendix look at the mean value for each sample and attribute versus
X1). each panelist’s score. This permits the panel leader to see
7.3.4 For each skinfeel attribute, the procedure, definition, whether one or more panelists are rating consistently higher or
and scale are discussed and demonstrated using three to five lower than the panel as a whole on one or more attributes.
references (if possible) that represent the full intensity range Review of the standard deviations across attributes demon-
from none or extremely low to very high. This exercise takes strates whether some panelists have standard deviations that
4 to 5 h. (See Appendix X1 for high and low references for are more variable than most panelists and on which attributes.
each attribute.) Large panel standard deviations indicate the need for a review
7.4 Panel Practice: of definitions, evaluation procedures, or reference standards for
7.4.1 Several practice sessions totaling 20 to 24 h are held to the attribute in question.
review the orientation material. These include the following: 7.6.2 A measure of the reproducibility of the panel as a
7.4.1.1 Review of the procedure, definition, and rating scale whole can be monitored by analyzing three replications of the
for each attribute (approximately 10 to 12 h); and panel’s evaluation of two or three samples of the same product
7.4.1.2 Evaluation of one or two products; these are evalu- type. An analysis of variance will determine whether the panel
ated independently with the scale references, as needed (ap- scores are the same for the same sample across the replicates.
proximately 10 to 12 h). This analysis should be conducted for each attribute.
7.4.2 Five to six pairs of samples (the samples in the pair 7.6.3 Analysis of the data collected from three replicates of
should initially be quite different from each other) are evalu- two or three different samples (as used in 7.6.2) can provide
ated on all attributes for all four stages: appearance, pick-up, information on judge-by-treatment interactions in the analysis
rub-out, and afterfeel during the practice sessions (approxi- of variance. A significant F value on any attribute indicates that
mately 10 to 12 h). one or more panelists are evaluating samples differently. Data
7.5 Validation—Any one of the following methods can be for these attributes should be plotted to determine the panelists
used for panel validation. whose values are different from the panel as a whole.
7.5.1 Choose three different products from the same product 7.6.4 After six months, repeat the procedure as outlined
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