ASTM D6193-16(2020)
(Practice)Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams
Standard Practice for Stitches and Seams
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
4.1 Seam engineering, the determination of the best stitch type, seam configuration, and thread type which should be used for a particular assembly, requires a thorough knowledge of many variables. The improper selection of any one component can result in failure of the sewn junction, and ultimately failure of the product manufactured.
4.2 General Characteristics—The characteristics of a properly constructed sewn seam are strength, elasticity, durability, security, and appearance. These characteristics must be balanced with the properties of the material to be joined to form the optimum sewn seam. The end use of the item will govern the relative importance of these characteristics. The selection of the seam type and stitch type should be based upon these considerations.
4.2.1 Strength—The seam efficiency of the sewn seam should be as high as possible. This will produce sewn seam strength with a balanced construction that will withstand the forces encountered in the use of the sewn item. The elements affecting the strength of a sewn seam are:
4.2.1.1 Fabric type and strength,
4.2.1.2 Seam type,
4.2.1.3 Stitch type,
4.2.1.4 Stitch density (spi),
4.2.1.5 Thread tension, and
4.2.1.6 Thread strength.
4.2.2 Elasticity—The elasticity of a sewn seam should be slightly greater than that of the material which it joins. This will enable the material to support its share of the forces encountered for the intended end use of the sewn item. The elasticity of a sewn seam depends upon:
4.2.2.1 Fabric type and strength,
4.2.2.2 Seam type,
4.2.2.3 Stitch type,
4.2.2.4 Stitch density (spi),
4.2.2.5 Thread tension, and
4.2.2.6 Thread elasticity.
4.2.3 Durability—The durability of a sewn seam depends largely upon its strength relative to the elasticity of the seam and the elasticity of the material. However, in less elastic, tightly woven or dense materials, there is a tendency for the plies to “work” or slide on each other. To form a durable sewn sea...
SCOPE
1.1 This practice covers the requirements and characteristics of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the fabrication of sewn items.
1.3 Subsequent to a general discussion of stitches and seams that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the following sections that are listed in the order in which they appear:
1.3.1 Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69,
FIG. 1 Stitch Type 101
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread that shall be passed through the material and interlooped with itself on the undersurface of the material.
FIG. 2 Stitch Type 102
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads A and A′. Both threads shall be passed through the material and thread A′ shall be interlooped with itself and with thread A.
FIG. 3 Stitch Type 103
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread, which shall interloop with itself on the top surface of the material. The thread shall be passed through the top ply and horizontally through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth.
FIG. 4 Stitch Type 104
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall interloop with itself on the undersurface of the material.
FIG. 5 Stitch Type 105
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with one needle thread which shall be passed through the top ply of material and through portions of the bottom ply without penetrating it the full depth, on either side of a center line. The thread shall interloop with itself on the surface of the material at the center line.
FIG. 6 Stitch Type 201
Note 1: This type of stitch shall be formed with two needle threads, A and A′, which shall be passed through th...
General Information
Relations
Standards Content (Sample)
This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D6193 − 16 (Reapproved 2020)
Standard Practice for
1
Stitches and Seams
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D6193; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1. Scope 3.1.1 bartack, n—a reinforcement stitch that effectively
minimizes tearing at the ends of critical stress stitchlines.
1.1 Thispracticecoverstherequirementsandcharacteristics
3.1.1.1 Discussion—Examples of critical stress stitchlines
of stitches and seams used in the fabrication of sewn items.
include: ends of seams, zippers, pocket flaps, crotch/seat
1.2 This practice identifies the category, formation, and
seams, collars, webbing and other components. If the bartack-
general purpose for stitch types and seam types used in the
ing process exhibits an insufficient number of stitches, im-
fabrication of sewn items.
proper thread size relationship or shortened bartack stitched
1.3 Subsequenttoageneraldiscussionofstitchesandseams length then it will fail under stress. Bartacking, because of the
that include schematic indices, this practice is comprised of the stitch density, can exhibit severe needle-cutting, thus creating a
following sections that are listed in the order in which they self-destructive characteristic if number of stitches is
appear: excessive, or sewing needle or thread size is too large for
1.3.1 Section 5—Classification of Stitch Types for which fabric. Bartacking is specified strictly as a relationship between
drawings are shown in Stitch Figs. 1-69, length,widthorthrowandtotalstitches.Itdoesnotincorporate
1.3.2 Section 6—Classification of Seam Types for which stitches per inch as a typical seam may specify.
drawings are shown in Seam Figs. 70-288, and
3.1.1.2 Discussion—Counting finished bartack stitches is
1.3.3 Annex A1—Seam Assembly Recommendations. virtually impossible since the overall process consists of three
components. The process begins in a horizontal position to
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
achieve the required length and then forms the familiar zig-zag
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
stitch-line along the horizontal plane including backstitching at
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
both ends to lock in the zig-zag stitches to prevent raveling.
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
The zig-zag stitches criss-cross the initial horizontal stitch line
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
thus virtually hiding the initial stitch line.
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
3.1.2 needle damage, n—in sewn fabrics, the partial or
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
passing through a fabric during sewing.
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
3.1.2.1 Discussion—This can also be referred to as needle
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
cuts.
3.1.3 seam, n—a line where two or more fabrics are joined,
2. Referenced Documents
usually near the edge. See also sewn seam, glued seam, stapled
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
seam, thermally bonded seam.)
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
3.1.4 seam allowance, n—in sewn fabrics, the distance from
3. Terminology the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that
edge.
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.5 seam assembly, n—the composite structure obtained
when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.
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ThispracticeisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextilesand
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
3.1.6 seam damage, n— in sewn fabrics, an adverse change
Current edition approved July 1, 2020. Published August 2020. Originally
in the physical condition of one or more of the components in
approved in 1997. Last previous edition approved in 2016 as D6193 – 16. DOI:
aseamwhichwouldreducetheseamacceptabilitysuchasyarn
10.1520/D6193-16R20.
2
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
slippage, needle damage, or fabric rupture.
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
3.1.7 seam effıciency, n—in sewn fabrics, the ratio of seam
Standards volume information
...
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