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ASTM D1059-17(2022)

(Test Method)

Standard Test Method for Yarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens

Standard Test Method for Yarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This is a quick method used for the determination of the approximate yarn number of short-length specimens taken from packages or fabrics.  
5.2 Because any error present in the reported length of the specimen is multiplied many times when calculating the theoretical yarn number using Eq 2 or Eq 3, it is extremely important that the length be measured as precisely as practicable.  
5.3 For the analysis of fabrics, this test method is adequate for estimating the approximate yarn number of the yarn used to weave or knit the fabric, but the results obtained by this test method may not agree with the nominal yarn number of the yarns actually used to make the fabric because of the changes in the yarn number produced by the weaving or knitting operations, the finishing treatments, and the dissecting operations. This test method is suitable for the evaluation of yarns as they occur in the finished fabric, when that information is needed.  
5.4 The yarn number obtained from the lengths taken from packages should not be expected to agree exactly with the values obtained by the use of the more precise methods of determining the yarn number included in Test Method D1907. If a sufficient number of consecutive specimens were tested, however, a close agreement with Option 1 of Test Method D1907 can be expected.  
5.5 This test method is designed to measure the yarn number of the single yarns present as a component of a plied yarn and the yarn number of the original single yarns used to produce a high twist yarn for a crepe fabric.  
5.6 This test method is not recommended for acceptance testing because of the short lengths used. In some cases, the purchaser and the supplier may have to test a commercial shipment of one or more specific materials by the best available method, even though the method has not been recommended for acceptance testing of commercial shipments.  
5.6.1 In such a case, if there is disagreement arising from the differences in values reported by th...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the yarn number of all types of cotton, woolen, worsted, and man-made fiber yarns taken from packages; or from any textile fabrics in which the yarns are intact and can be removed in measurable lengths. The test method is not applicable to yarns taken from napped or cut pile fabrics. Because this test method is based on short-length specimens, the results should only be considered as approximations of yarn number.
Note 1: For a more precise procedure for the determination of yarn number, refer to Test Method D1907.
Note 2: The following additional methods for the determination of yarn number have been approved for yarns made from specific fibers: Specification D541, D578, and D681.  
1.2 This test method is applicable to yarns which stretch less than 5 % when tension on yarn is increased from 0.25 to 0.75 cN/tex (0.25 to 0.75 gf/tex). By mutual agreement it may be adapted to yarns which stretch more than 5 % by use of tension lower than that specified in the method for elastomers or use of tension higher than that specified in the method to pull the crimp out of textured yarns.  
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Co...

General Information

Status
Published
Publication Date
31-Oct-2022
ICS
59.080.20 - Yarns
Technical Committee
D13 - Textiles
Drafting Committee
D13.58 - Yarns and Fibers
Current Stage
Ref Project

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ASTM D1059-17(2022) - Standard Test Method for Yarn Number Based on Short-Length SpecimensASTM D1059-17(2022) - Standard Test Method for Yarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens
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ASTM D1059-17(2022) - Standard Test Method for Yarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens
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This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D1059 − 17 (Reapproved 2022)
Standard Test Method for
1
Yarn Number Based on Short-Length Specimens
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1059; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the U.S. Department of Defense.
1. Scope 2. Referenced Documents
2.1 ASTM Standards:
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the yarn
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
number of all types of cotton, woolen, worsted, and man-made
2
D541 Specification for Single Jute Yarn (Withdrawn 1996)
fiber yarns taken from packages; or from any textile fabrics in
D578 Specification for Glass Fiber Strands
which the yarns are intact and can be removed in measurable
D629 Test Methods for Quantitative Analysis of Textiles
lengths. The test method is not applicable to yarns taken from
D681 Specification for Jute Rove and Plied Yarn for Elec-
napped or cut pile fabrics. Because this test method is based on
2
trical and Packing Purposes (Withdrawn 2000)
short-length specimens, the results should only be considered
D1423 Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting
as approximations of yarn number.
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
NOTE 1—For a more precise procedure for the determination of yarn
number, refer to Test Method D1907. D1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Num-
NOTE 2—The following additional methods for the determination of ber) by the Skein Method
yarn number have been approved for yarns made from specific fibers:
D2258 Practice for Sampling Yarn for Testing
Specification D541, D578, and D681.
3. Terminology
1.2 Thistestmethodisapplicabletoyarnswhichstretchless
than 5 % when tension on yarn is increased from 0.25 to 0.75
3.1 Definitions—The following terms are relevant to this
cN/tex (0.25 to 0.75 gf/tex). By mutual agreement it may be
standard: cotton count, cut, indirect yarn numbering system,
adapted to yarns which stretch more than 5 % by use of tension
lea, metric count, run, tex, type, worsted count, yarn number,
lower than that specified in the method for elastomers or use of
yarn numbering system.
tension higher than that specified in the method to pull the
3.2 For definitions of other textile terms used in this test
crimp out of textured yarns.
method, refer to Terminology D123.
1.3 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as
standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are
4. Summary of Test Method
provided for information only and are not considered standard.
4.1 Specimens of prescribed length, usually 1 m (1.1 yd) or
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the less, are cut from a conditioned sample, which is under
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the prescribed tension, and weighed. The yarn number is calcu-
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro- lated from the mass and the measured length of the yarn.
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use. 5. Significance and Use
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor-
5.1 This is a quick method used for the determination of the
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
approximate yarn number of short-length specimens taken
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
from packages or fabrics.
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
5.2 Because any error present in the reported length of the
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
specimen is multiplied many times when calculating the
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
theoretical yarn number using Eq 2 or Eq 3, it is extremely
important that the length be measured as precisely as practi-
cable.
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
and are the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
Current edition approved Nov. 1, 2022. Published December 2022. Originally
2
approved in 1952. Last previous edition approved in 2017 as D1059 – 17. DOI: The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
10.1520/D1059-17R22. www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
1

---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
D1059 − 17 (2022)
5.
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount and direction of twist at the completion of any stage of twisting in single (spun or filament), plied, cabled, or novelty (exclusive of long-term repeat patterns) yarns. The procedures are designed primarily for yarns in packages, but, with special precautions, they are applicable to yarns taken from fabrics. The procedure for spun yarn in 9.2 is also applicable to rovings.  
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1.4 Units—The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore, to ensure conformance with the standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.
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ASTM D2258/D2258M-16(2022)(Practice)
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SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Assigning a value to any property of the material in a container or in a lot, consignment, or delivery involves a measurement process that includes both sampling and testing procedures. The correctness of the value assigned depends upon the variability due to testing and sampling plan. Even when the variability due to testing is minimized by carefully developed procedures, correct and consistent estimates of the true value of the property are possible only when the sampling procedure avoids systematic bias, minimizes variations due to sampling, and provides a laboratory sample of adequate size.  
5.2 Practice D2258 may not give the most efficient sampling plan that might be devised in special situations but does present a general procedure that gives satisfactory precision with an economical amount of sampling. Many plans that include stratified sampling can be found in textbooks and through the use of statistical software tools and calculators.  
5.2.1 If not specified by the purchaser, the manufacturer will define suitable production lots based on one or more of the following: supply lot, production shift/time segment, production equipment or production line, operator, designated shipment, production run, or a combination herein.  
5.2.2 If not specified by the purchaser, the manufacturer will define sampling and testing frequency based on the following: process capability or capability analysis, historical trends, level of detection rate required, confidence level requirements, known variations or special causes, or both. Every attempt to ensure conforming product is being produced, identify potential nonconforming product or proper isolation and identification, will be carried out by the manufacturer.  
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1.1 This practice describes a procedure for the division of shipments of yarn into test lots and the sampling of such lots for testing.  
1.1.1 This practice can be used for lot sample testing of yarns for both pre-fabric production and post-fabric production.  
1.2 This practice is applicable to single, plied, or cabled yarns, and cords, made of any fiber or mixture of fibers, and supported on any form of package, including beams.  
1.3 This practice also describes procedures for the sampling of yarn(s) removed from woven or knitted fabrics; however, when thus sampled, the yarns are usually not representative of entire shipments, as referred to in 1.1. Consequently, the resultant sampling can only be used to determine the characteristics of the yarn and is usually not used for acceptance testing. Moreover, it should be recognized that the characteristics of yarns from fabrics may be different than the characteristics of the same yarn(s), prior to being entered into the fabric manufacturing process.  
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore, to ensure conformance with the standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
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ASTM D6612-00(2022)(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Yarn Number and Yarn Number Variability Using Automated Tester

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D6612 for yarn number and yarn number variability is satisfactory for acceptance of commercial shipments and is used in the trade.  
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between the reported test results for two or more laboratories, comparative tests should be performed by those laboratories to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, samples used for each comparative tests should be as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that results in disparate results during initial testing, and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. Other fabrics with established tests values are used for this purpose. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared appropriate statistical analysis and a probability level chosen by the two parties before testing begins, at a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results adjusted in consideration of the known bias.  
5.1.2 The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using appropriate statistical analysis and a probability level chosen by the two parties before the testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results with consideration to the known bias.  
5.2 Test Method D6612 also is used for the quality control of filament yarns.  
5.3 Indices of Variability:  
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1.1 This test method covers the measurement of yarn number up to 4000 dtex (3600 denier) and related variability properties of filament and spun yarns using an automated tester with capability for measuring mass variability characteristics.  
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Standard Test Method for Tensile Properties of Yarns by the Single-Strand Method

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Acceptance Testing—Option A1 of Test Method D2256 is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments because the test method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing. However, this statement is not applicable to knot and loop breaking force tests, tests on wet specimens, tests on oven-dried specimens, or tests on specimens exposed to low or high temperatures and should be used with caution for acceptance testing because factual information on between-laboratory precision and bias is not available.  
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative tests should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.  
5.2 Fundamental Properties—The breaking tenacity, calculated from the breaking force and the linear density, and the elongation are fundamental properties that are widely used to establish limitations on yarn processing or conversion and on their end-use applications. Initial modulus is a measure of the resistance of the yarn to extension at forces below the yield point. The chord modulus is used to estimate the resistance to imposed strain. The breaking toughness is a measure of the work necessary to break the yarn.  
5.3 Comparison to Skein Testing—The single-strand method gives a more a...
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of tensile properties of monofilament, multifilament, and spun yarns, either single, plied, or cabled with the exception of yarns that stretch more than 5.0 % when tension is increased from 0.05 to 1.0 cN/tex [0.5 to 1.0 gf/tex].  
1.2 This test method covers the measurement of breaking force and elongation of yarns and includes directions for the calculation of breaking tenacity, initial modulus, chord modulus, and breaking toughness.  
1.2.1 Options are included for the testing of specimens in: (A) straight, (B) knotted, and (C) looped form.  
1.2.2 Conditions of test are included for the testing of specimens that are: (1) conditioned air, (2) wet, not immersed, (3) wet, immersed, (4) oven-dried, (5) exposed to elevated temperature, or (6) exposed to low temperature.  
Note 1: Special methods for testing yarns made from specific fibers; namely, glass, flax, hemp, ramie, and kraft paper and for specific products; namely, tire cords and rope, have been published: Test Methods D885, and Specification D578.
Note 2: For directions covering the determination of breaking force of yarn by the skein method refer to Test Method D1578.  
1.3 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the two systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization estab...

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ASTM
ASTM D2731-21(Test Method)
Standard Test Method for Elastic Properties of Elastomeric Yarns (CRE Type Tensile Testing Machines)

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments since current estimates of between-laboratory precision are acceptable and the method is used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.  
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative tests should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use samples for such comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing, and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, at a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.  
5.2 Force at Specified Elongation (FASE) is a measure of the tensile force occurring while extending a textile material within specified limits. This characteristic of elastomeric yarn indicates the resistance that will have to be overcome by the wearer while putting on a garment made of the material and is also an indication of the garment's resistance to deformation caused by normal body movements during wear. The elongations used for these measurements are typically 100 %, 200 % and 300 %.  
5.3 Permanent Deformation (set) is a measure of the increase in length of an elastomeric yarn resulting from cyclic stretching and relaxation. The characteristic is a visible indication of the realignment of intermolecular bonds within the elastic material. As with stress decay, the amount of set increases with yarn extension; however, for any particular extension, little or no additional set takes place after...
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1.1 This test method covers the determination of elastic properties of “as produced” elastomeric yarns made from rubber, spandex or other elastomers. Elastic properties include force at specified elongations, permanent deformation and stress decay. Other hysteresis related properties can be calculated.
Note 1: For a method designed specifically for testing rubber threads, refer to Test Method D2433.  
1.2 This test method is not applicable to covered, wrapped, or core-spun yarns or yarns spun from elastomeric staple.  
1.3 This test method is applicable to elastomeric yarns having a range of 40 to 3200 dtex (36 to 2900 denier).  
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or U.S. Customary units are to be regarded separately as standard. Within the text, the U.S. Customary units are in parentheses. The values stated in each system are not exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM
ASTM D204-02(2021)(Test Method)
Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the individual test method. These test methods are the best available and are used extensively in the trade.  
4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more) comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
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1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing threads of any fiber.  
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.  
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not address any other properties that may be important for the satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular end use conditions.  
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the following properties:    
Sections  
Colorfastness to Drycleaning  
73 – 83  
Colorfastness to Laundering  
62 – 72  
Colorfastness to Water Migration  
84 – 94  
Diameter  
43 – 50  
Length per Thread Holder  
34 – 42  
Shrinkage, Single Strand  
51 – 61  
Dry Heat  
58.1  
Boiling Water  
58.2  
Strength and Elongation  
15 – 21  
Single Strand—Conditioned  
19.1.1  
Single Strand—Wet  
19.1.2  
Loop Strength  
19.2  
Knot Strength  
19.3  
Twist  
22 – 27  
Twist Balance  
28 – 33  
Yarn Number  
7 – 14
Note 1: For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test Methods D1683/D1683M and D3940.  
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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