Standard Test Method for Yarn Crimp and Yarn Take-up in Woven Fabrics

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 The relationship of the length of a piece of fabric and the length of yarn in the fabric can be determined accurately only be measuring the length of yarn entering the loom and the length of fabric made from that particular length of yarn. In most cases, however, the determination must of necessity be made on a woven fabric by measuring the length of yarn removed from a measured length of fabric, thus introducing certain variations that will influence the accuracy of the test. Yarn removed from the woven fabric contains undulations or waves that have been introduced by the weaving process. Heat, moisture, and mechanical shrinkage on subsequent finishing operations may accentuate these undulations, and in all probability, increase the force to pull them out and straighten the yarn. In order to accurately measure the length of the yarn after the removal of the crimp, these undulations must be pulled out without elongating the yarn. In some cases, the minimum force necessary to straighten the yarn will cause a certain amount of the elongation to take place, thus increasing the length of the yarn. Also, stresses imposed upon the yarn during the weaving process may have been sufficient to stretch the yarn beyond its elastic limit, again increasing its length. It is recognized that determination made by measuring length of yarn removed from a measured length of fabric may tend to give crimp values that are somewhat higher than the crimp in the yarn as it lay in the fabric. In the case of fabrics made from yarns that exhibit differential shrinkage, or yarns of widely different count, or yarns woven at different tensions, the crimp of each type of yarn in the fabric must be determined and reported separately.  
5.2 This test method can be used for acceptance testing of commercial shipments but comparisons should be made with caution because information on estimates of between-laboratory precision is limited as noted in 13.1.  
5.2.1 If there are differences of practic...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the relationship between the length of a piece of fabric and the length of the yarn in the fabric by measurement of the yarn crimp and yarn take-up.  
1.2 This test method applies to woven fabrics.  
1.3 The values stated in either SI or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. Within the text, the inch-pound units are shown in parentheses. The values stated in each system are not exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the two systems may result in nonconformance with the specification.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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Publication Date
30-Jun-2020
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ASTM D3883-04(2020) - Standard Test Method for Yarn Crimp and Yarn Take-up in Woven Fabrics
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This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
Designation: D3883 − 04 (Reapproved 2020)
Standard Test Method for
Yarn Crimp and Yarn Take-up in Woven Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3883; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D2904 Practice for Interlaboratory Testing of a Textile Test
Method that Produces Normally Distributed Data (With-
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the rela-
drawn 2008)
tionship between the length of a piece of fabric and the length
D2906 Practice for Statements on Precision and Bias for
of the yarn in the fabric by measurement of the yarn crimp and 3
Textiles (Withdrawn 2008)
yarn take-up.
D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
D4850 Terminology Relating to Fabrics and Fabric Test
1.2 This test method applies to woven fabrics.
Methods
1.3 The values stated in either SI or inch-pound units are to
3. Terminology
be regarded separately as standard. Within the text, the
inch-pound units are shown in parentheses. The values stated
3.1 For definition of textile terms used in this test method:
in each system are not exact equivalents; therefore, each
bench marks, refer to Terminology D4849.
system shall be used independently of the other. Combining
3.2 For definitions of textile terms used in this test method:
values from the two systems may result in nonconformance
yarn crimp and yarn take-up, refer to Terminology D4850.
with the specification.
3.3 For definitions of other textile terms used in this test
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the
method, refer to Terminology D123.
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
4. Summary of Test Method
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
priate safety, health, and environmental practices and deter-
4.1 Bench marks are placed on a length of a yarn as it lies
mine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
in a woven fabric. The distance between the bench marks is
1.5 This international standard was developed in accor- measured.Theyarnisremovedfromthefabric,straightenedby
applying suitable tension, and the distance between the bench
dance with internationally recognized principles on standard-
marks is remeasured. Yarn crimp is the change in length
ization established in the Decision on Principles for the
expressedasapercentandbasedonthein-fabricdistance.Yarn
Development of International Standards, Guides and Recom-
take-up is the change in length expressed as a percent and
mendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical
based on the out-of-fabric distance.
Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.
5. Significance and Use
2. Referenced Documents
5.1 Therelationshipofthelengthofapieceoffabricandthe
2.1 ASTM Standards:
length of yarn in the fabric can be determined accurately only
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
be measuring the length of yarn entering the loom and the
D1776/D1776M Practice for Conditioning and Testing Tex-
length of fabric made from that particular length of yarn. In
tiles
most cases, however, the determination must of necessity be
made on a woven fabric by measuring the length of yarn
removed from a measured length of fabric, thus introducing
certain variations that will influence the accuracy of the test.
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 on Textiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.59 on Fabric Test Methods, Yarn removed from the woven fabric contains undulations or
General.
waves that have been introduced by the weaving process. Heat,
Current edition approved July 1, 2020. Published August 2020. Originally
moisture, and mechanical shrinkage on subsequent finishing
approved in 1980. Last previous edition approved in 2016 as D3883 – 04(2016).
operations may accentuate these undulations, and in all
DOI: 10.1520/D3883-04R20.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on The last approved version of this historical standard is referenced on
the ASTM website. www.astm.org.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959. United States
D3883 − 04 (2020)
probability, increase the force to pull them out and straighten 7.3 TestSpecimens—Fromeachlaboratorysamplingunit,as
the yarn. In order to accurately measure the length of the yarn required for each the warpwise and fillingwise directions, take
after the removal of the crimp, these undulations must be ten test specimens, each 300 mm (14 in.) long as direction in
pulled out without elongating the yarn. In some cases, the Section 9. Consider the long direction as the direction of test.
minimum force necessary to straighten the yarn will cause a 7.3.1 For fabric widths 125-mm (5-in.) or more, take no
certain amount of the elongation to take place, thus increasing specimen closer than 25-mm (1-in.) from the selvage edge.
the length of the yarn. Also, stresses imposed upon the yarn 7.3.2 For fabric widths less than 125-mm (5-in.), use the
during the weaving process may have been sufficient to stretch entire width for specimens.
the yarn beyond its elastic limit, again increasing its length. It 7.3.3 Ensure specimens are free of folds, creases, or
is recognized that determination made by measuring length of wrinkles. Avoid getting oil, water, grease, etc., on the speci-
yarn removed from a measured length of fabric may tend to mens when handling.
give crimp values that are somewhat higher than the crimp in 7.3.4 If the fabric has a pattern, ensure that the specimens
the yarn as it lay in the fabric. In the case of fabrics made from are a representative sampling of the pattern.
yarns that exhibit differential shrinkage, or yarns of widely
8. Conditioning
different count, or yarns woven at different tensions, the crimp
of each type of yarn in the fabric must be determined and
8.1 Condition the specimens by bringing them to approxi-
reported separately.
mate moisture equilibrium in the standard atmosphere for
conditioning textiles as directed in Practice D1776/D1776M.
5.2 This test method can be used for acceptance testing of
commercial shipments but comparisons should be made with
9. Preparation of Test Apparatus and Calibration
caution because information on estimates of between-
9.1 Set-up procedures for machines from different manufac-
laboratory precision is limited as noted in 13.1.
turers may vary. Prepare and verify calibration of the testing
5.2.1 If there are differences of practical significance be-
device as directed in the manufacturer’s instructions.
tween reported test results for two laboratories (or more),
comparative tests should be performed to determine if their is
10. Procedure
a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical
assistance. As a minimum, ensure the test samples to be used
10.1 Test the specimens in the standard atmosphere for
are as homogeneous as possible, are drawn from the material testing textiles, as described in Practice D1776/D1776M.
from which the disparate test results were obtained, and are
10.2 Handle the test specimens carefully to avoid altering
randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for
the natural state of the material.
testing. The test results from the two laboratories should be
10.3 Test ten specimens from the warpwise direction or ten
compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, at a
specimensfromthefillingwisedirection,orboth,asrequiredin
probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is
a material specification or contact order.
found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future
test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration
10.4 Using the marking device, make two lines (bench
of the known bias.
marks) 250 mm (10 in.) apart, perpendicular to the yarn being
tested and extending 25 mm (1 in.) into the fabric, and record
6. Apparatus
the distance between bench marks as distance (F) (in-fabric
distance).
6.1 Suitable Device , for straightening the yarn through
10.4.1 If a direct reading device is used, follow the manu-
application of horizontal or vertical tension, having two yarn
facturer’s recommendations for establishing the specimen
support surfaces or two clamps, the distance between which
length.
may be altered in order to apply the needed tension.
10.5 Prepare an edge by making a cut at least 350 mm (14
6.2 Suitable Marking Device, for marking bench marks on
in.) long, parallel, and in the direction of the yarn to be
the yarn specimen.
measured, and such that it crosses near the ends of both lines
7. Sampling and Test Specimens of the bench mark.
7.1 Primary Sampling Unit—Consider rolls of fabric or
10.6 Ravel several yarns from the cut edge, such that they
fabric components of fabricated systems to be the primary contain the bench marks.
sampling unit, as applicable.
10.7 One at a time, when ready to use, ravel ten yarn
7.2 Laboratory Sampling Unit—As a laboratory sampling specimensfromthepreparededgeofthefabric.Ensurethatthe
unit take from rolls two pieces of fabric, full width, each 375
bench marks appear on each yarn. Take care not to disturb the
mm (15 in.) in length along the selvage (machine direction) twistorstraintheyarn.Maintainidentityofthefabricdirection
after removing a first 1-mm (1-yd) length. For fabric compo-
being
...

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