ASTM D1683/D1683M-11
(Test Method)Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
Standard Test Method for Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
This test method can also be used to determine either the sewn seam strength of textiles or the efficiency of a seam assembly with any given fabric. Additionally, the seam strengths of different fabrics can be compared directly by using one of the standard seam assemblies specified in Table 1. Because current information about laboratory precision is incomplete, comparative tests may be advisable.
In case of dispute arising from differences in reported test results when using this test method for acceptance testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the supplier should perform comparative tests to determine if there is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of bias. As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test specimens from the same lot of fabric to be evaluated, which utilize a like seam assembly (or standard seam assembly). The test specimens should then be randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory for testing. If a bias is found, either its cause must be determined and corrected, or the purchaser and supplier must agree to interpret future test results in light of the known bias.
This test method determines the seam efficiency of a specified seam assembly with each fabric. Because seam efficiency varies with each fabric, one of the standard seam assemblies, as noted in Table 1, should be used when comparing the seam strength of different fabrics. Table 1 lists the default seam assembly specifications to be used for fabrics made with fine, medium and heavy count yarns. If a determination cannot be made as to which seam is the best suited for a particular fabric, all should be evaluated.
Seams prepared for this test method should be made by competent factory sewing operators familiar with the potential for damage to the integrity of the sewn seam when stitching is improperly done. (See Note 2.)
Note 3—If competent factory sewing operators are not...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams.
Note 1—The grab test procedure in Test Method D5034 shall be used to determine any characteristic in fabric that can affect the measurement of sewn seam strength.
1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric samples using either a specific seam assembly (see Table 1), or production seam assemblies.
1.2 This test method is used when a breaking force to rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required to determine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or seam integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.
Note 2—This test method is used in conjunction with Test Method D5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics. Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, or any combination thereof. Rupture can be further categorized as failure or fabric, or sewing thread, or seam slippage.
1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear performance of a seam.
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the two systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
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Designation: D1683/D1683M – 11
Standard Test Method for
1
Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates the
year of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last
reapproval. A superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in
woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn
2. Referenced Documents
seams.
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
NOTE 1—The grab test procedure in Test Method D5034 shall be used
D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles
todetermineanycharacteristicinfabricthatcanaffectthemeasurementof
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
sewn seam strength.
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained
D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation
from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric
of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
samples using either a specific seam assembly (seeTable 1), or
D5822 Test Method for Determining Seam Strength in
production seam assemblies.
Inflatable Restraint Cushions
1.2 This test method is used when a breaking force to
D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
rupture, a minimum elongation, or both are required to
3. Terminology
determine the sewn seam strength, seam slippage, or seam
integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 needle damage, n—in sewn fabrics, the partial or
NOTE 2—This test method is used in conjunction with Test Method
complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle
D5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textile
fabrics. Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, or passing through a fabric during sewing.
any combination thereof. Rupture can be further categorized as failure or
3.1.2 seam allowance, n—in sewn fabrics,thedistancefrom
fabric, or sewing thread, or seam slippage.
the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that
1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear perfor- edge.
3.1.3 seam assembly, n—the composite structure obtained
mance of a seam.
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.
3.1.3.1 Discussion—A seam assembly may be described in
are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in
each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each terms of fabric orientation, seam direction, seam type, stitch
type, seam allowance, sewing thread tex number(s) and type(s)
system shall be used independently of the other. Combining
values from the two systems may result in non-conformance stitch density, stitch gage, and rows of stitching.
3.1.4 seam effıciency, n—in sewn fabrics, the ratio, ex-
with the standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the pressed as a percentage, of the breaking force required to
rupture a sewn seam to that required to rupture the fabric.
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro- 3.1.5 seam engineering, n—in sewn fabrics, the procedures
used to select a specific combination of sewing thread, stitch
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 onTextiles
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies.
2
Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2011. Published March 2011. Originally For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
approved in 1990. Discontinued in 1999 and reinstated in 2004 as D1683–04. Last contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
previous edition approved in 2007 as D1683–07. DOI: 10.1520/D1683_D1683M- Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
11. the ASTM website.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
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D1683/D1683M – 11
A
TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly Specification
Fabric: High Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine Count Yarns
2 2 2 2
Mass up to 270 g/m [8 oz/yd ] over 270 g/m [8 oz/yd ]
Seam allowance 13 mm [0.5 in.] 16 mm [0.625 in.]
Needle:
Size Metric 90 [0.036 in.] Metric 110 [0.044 in.]
Finish chrome chrome
Point thin ball (No.1/No. 23) medium ball (No. 23/No. 43)
Sewin
...
This document is not anASTM standard and is intended only to provide the user of anASTM standard an indication of what changes have been made to the previous version. Because
it may not be technically possible to adequately depict all changes accurately, ASTM recommends that users consult prior editions as appropriate. In all cases only the current version
of the standard as published by ASTM is to be considered the official document.
Designation:D1683–07 Designation: D1683/D1683M – 11
Standard Test Method for
1
Failure in Sewn Seams of Woven Apparel Fabrics
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D1683/D1683M; the number immediately following the designation indicates the
year of original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last
reapproval. A superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
This standard has been approved for use by agencies of the Department of Defense.
1. Scope
1.1 This test method measures the sewn seam strength in woven fabrics by applying a force perpendicular to the sewn seams.
NOTE 1—The grab test procedure inTest Method D5034 shall be used to determine any characteristic in fabric that can affect the measurement of sewn
seam strength.
1.1.1 This test method is applicable to sewn seams obtained from a previously sewn article or seams sewn with fabric samples
using either a specific seam assembly (see Table 1), or production seam assemblies.
1.2 Thistestmethodisusedwhenabreakingforcetorupture,aminimumelongation,orbotharerequiredtodeterminethesewn
seam strength, seam slippage, or seam integrity of a particular fabric for a specified end use.
NOTE 2—This test method is used in conjunction with Test Method D5034, which is used to measure breaking force and elongation of textile fabrics.
Sewn seams in woven fabrics can fail due to rupture, slippage, or any combination thereof. Rupture can be further categorized as failure or fabric, or
sewing thread, or seam slippage.
1.3 This test method does not predict actual wear performance of a seam.
1.4The values stated in either acceptable metric units (SI) or in other units shall be regarded separately as standard. The values
expressed in each system may not be exact equivalents; therefore each system must be used independently of the other, without
combining values in any way.
1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each
system may not be exact equivalents; therefore, each system shall be used independently of the other. Combining values from the
two systems may result in non-conformance with the standard.
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility
of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory
limitations prior to use.
2. Referenced Documents
2
2.1 ASTM Standards:
D76 Specification for Tensile Testing Machines for Textiles
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
D1776 Practice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles
D5034 Test Method for Breaking Strength and Elongation of Textile Fabrics (Grab Test)
D5822 Test Method for Determining Seam Strength in Inflatable Restraint Cushions
D6193 Practice for Stitches and Seams
3. Terminology
3.1 Definitions:
3.1.1 needle damage, n—in sewn fabrics, the partial or complete yarn severance or fiber fusing caused by a needle passing
through a fabric during sewing.
3.1.2 seam allowance, n—in sewn fabrics, the distance from the edge of a fabric to the parallel stitch line furthest from that
edge.
3.1.3 seam assembly, n—the composite structure obtained when fabric(s) are joined by means of a seam.
1
This test method is under the jurisdiction of ASTM Committee D13 on Textiles and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.54 on Subassemblies .
Current edition approved JulyFeb. 1, 2007.2011. Published August 2007.March 2011. Originally approved in 1990. Discontinued in 1999 and reinstated in 2004 as
D1683–04. Last previous edition approved in 20042007 as D1683–04.D1683–07. DOI: 10.1520/D1683-07.10.1520/D1683_D1683M-11.
2
For referencedASTM standards, visit theASTM website, www.astm.org, or contactASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM Standards
volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on the ASTM website.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
1
---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
D1683/D1683M – 11
A
TABLE 1 Standard/Default Seam Assembly Specification
Fabric: High Density Warp and Filling Yarn Construction made of Fine Count Yarns
2 2 2 2
Mass up to 270 g/m (8 oz/yd ) over 270 g/m (8 oz/yd )
2 2 2 2
Mass up to 270 g/m [8 oz/yd ] over 270 g/m [8 oz/yd ]
Seam allowance 13 mm (0.5 in.) 16 mm
...
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