ASTM D584-96(2005)
(Test Method)Standard Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool-Laboratory Scale
Standard Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool-Laboratory Scale
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers a laboratory procedure for the determination of the wool base content and the clean wool fiber present in samples of raw wool. This test method is also applicable to other animal fibers such as mohair, cashmere, alpaca, and camel hair. Note 1Sampling of lots of raw wool in packages is covered in Practice D 1060; the determination of vegetable matter and other alkali-insoluble impurities in scoured wool is covered in Test Method D 1113; the determination of wool content on a commercial scale is covered in Test Method D 1334. For factors for the conversion of woolbase content to its equivalent in terms of scoured wool, top, or noil of various commercially specified compositions (formerly covered in the appendix of this test method), refer to Practice D 2720. Note 2
Because of the trade practice the term weight is used in this test method instead of the technically correct term mass.
This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.
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Designation:D584–96 (Reapproved 2005)
Standard Test Method for
Wool Content of Raw Wool—Laboratory Scale
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D584; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope D2720 Practice for Calculation of Commercial Weight and
Yield of Scoured Wool, Top, and Noil for Various Com-
1.1 This test method covers a laboratory procedure for the
mercial Compositions
determinationofthewoolbasecontentandthecleanwoolfiber
E337 Test Method for Measuring Humidity with a Psy-
present in samples of raw wool. This test method is also
chrometer (the Measurement of Wet- and Dry-Bulb Tem-
applicable to other animal fibers such as mohair, cashmere,
peratures)
alpaca, and camel hair.
2.2 Other Standard:
NOTE 1—Sampling of lots of raw wool in packages is covered in
IWTO-19-85 (E) Method for the Determination of Wool
Practice D1060; the determination of vegetable matter and other alkali-
Base, Vegetable Matter Base; IWTO Clean Wool Content;
insolubleimpuritiesinscouredwooliscoveredinTestMethod D1113;the
IWTO Scoured Yield in Raw Wool
determination of wool content on a commercial scale is covered in Test
Method D1334. For factors for the conversion of woolbase content to its
3. Terminology
equivalent in terms of scoured wool, top, or noil of various commercially
specified compositions (formerly covered in the appendix of this test 3.1 Definitions:
method), refer to Practice D2720.
3.1.1 clean wool fiber present, n—in raw wool, the mass of
NOTE 2—Because of the trade practice the term weight is used in this
wool base present in the raw wool, adjusted to a moisture
test method instead of the technically correct term mass.
content of 12 %, an alcohol-extractable content of 1.5 %, and a
1.2 This standard does not purport to address all of the
mineral matter content of 0.5 %.
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
3.1.2 other alkali-insoluble impurities, n—in scoured wool,
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
the oven-dried, ash-free, alcohol-extractives-free, alkali-
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
insoluble substances other than vegetable matter base, such as
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
skin, cotton or other fibers, paper, string, tag (dung) pieces, and
paint pieces, and so forth.
2. Referenced Documents
3.1.3 oven-dried, adj—the condition of a material that has
2.1 ASTM Standards:
been heated under prescribed conditions of temperature and
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
humidity until there is no further significant change in its mass.
D584 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool—
3.1.3.1 Discussion—The conditions prescribed in this test
Laboratory Scale
method are heating to 105 6 2°C in a forced-draft oven
D1060 Practice for Core Sampling of Raw Wool in Pack-
supplied with air from an atmosphere having a relative
ages for Determination of Percentage of Clean Wool Fiber
humidity of 65 6 2 % at a temperature of 20 6 2°C. A
Present
temperature of 20 6 2°C is used in this test method instead of
D1113 Test Method for Vegetable Matter and OtherAlkali-
21.1 6 1°C because international testing is frequently in-
Insoluble Impurities in Scoured Wool
volved.
D1334 Test Method for Wool Content of Raw Wool—
3.1.4 raw wool, n—wool or hair of the sheep in the greased,
Commercial Scale
pulled, or scoured state.
D2525 Practice for Sampling Wool for Moisture
3.1.5 vegetable matter base, n—in raw wool, oven-dried
scoured burrs, seeds, twigs, leaves, and grasses, free mineral
matter and alcohol-extractable matter.
This test method is under the jurisdiction ofASTM Committee D13 onTextiles
3.1.6 vegetable matter present, n—in raw wool, the weight
and is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.13 on Wool and Wool Felt.
of vegetable matter base present in the raw wool, adjusted to a
Current edition approved Jan. 1, 2005. Published March 2005. Originally
moisture content of 12 %, an alcohol-extractives content of
approved in 1940 . Last previous edition approved in 1996 as D584 – 96. DOI:
10.1520/D0584-96R05.
1.5 %, and a mineral matter content of 0.5 %.
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on Specifications of Test Methods, International Wool Textile Organization,
the ASTM website. International Wool Secretariat, Ilkley, West Yorkshire, U.K. LS298PB.
Copyright © ASTM International, 100 Barr Harbor Drive, PO Box C700, West Conshohocken, PA 19428-2959, United States.
D584–96 (2005)
3.1.7 wool base, n—oven-dried scoured wool free of wool during commercial cleaning (or other) operations. The
alcohol-extractable matter, mineral matter, vegetable matter, followingstatutorypracticeisdescribedsolelyforinformation:
and all impurities. 5.4.1 For the purpose of duty assessment on importations of
3.1.8 yield, n—in raw wool, the combined weight of clean raw wool into the United States, the Tariff Schedules of the
United States provides a statutory formula for calculating the
wool fiber present and vegetable matter present, as a percent-
age of the raw wool weight . allowance to be made for wool “that would ordinarily be lost
during commercial cleaning operations.” The formula is based
3.1.9 For definitions of other textile terms used in this test
on the clean wool fiber present (called“ absolute clean content”
method, refer to Terminology D123.
in the Tariff Schedules) and on the vegetable matter present.
The allowance, in terms of clean wool fiber present, is equal to
4. Summary of Test Method
0.5 % of the clean wool fiber present plus 60 % of the
4.1 The entire sample, or each test specimen drawn there-
vegetable matter present, the total allowance not to exceed
from in a specified manner, is weighed, scoured, dried, and
15 % of the clean wool fiber present. The dutiable quantity
reweighed. The oven-dry scoured wool is tested to determine
(called “clean yield” in the Tariff Schedules) is the difference
its content of alcohol-extractable matter, mineral matter (ash),
between the clean wool fiber present and the allowance so
vegetable matter base, and other alkali-insoluble impurities.
calculated.
The wool-base content, laboratory scoured yield, clean wool
fiber present, and vegetable matter present are calculated as
6. Apparatus
percentages of the mass of the raw wool sample.
6.1 Subsampling Equipment—A cylindrical or rectangular
chamber having a sliding cover plate by means of which wool
5. Significance and Use
inthechambermaybecompressed,andopeningsinthebottom
plate through which cores may be bored with a sampling tube
5.1 This test method is considered satisfactory for accep-
tance testing of commercial shipments since this test method approximately12mmininsidediameter.Theopeningsshallbe
has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing. about 18 mm in diameter and spaced uniformly on 40 to
50-mm centers over the entire plate. The volume of the
5.1.1 In case of dispute arising from differences in reported
chamber must be sufficient to contain the sample, but the
test results when using Test Method D584 for acceptance
relative dimensions are optional. For greasy wool samples
testing of commercial shipments, the purchaser and the sup-
weighing 10 kg, a chamber 300 by 300 by 700 mm is
plier should conduct comparative testing to determine if there
satisfactory. A replaceable inner lining of soft wood or similar
is a statistical bias between their laboratories. Competent
material for the sliding cover plate is recommended to avoid
statistical assistance is recommended for the investigation of
damage to the cutting edge of the sampling tube.
bias.As a minimum, the two parties should take a group of test
6.1.1 Sampling Tube—Similar to that used to obtain core
specimens that are as homogenous as possible and that are
samples, as described in Practice D1060.
from a lot of the type material in question. The test specimens
6.2 Scouring Equipment—A scouring bowl with accesso-
should then be assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory
ries, and a flotation jar.
for testing. The average results from the two laboratories
6.2.1 Scouring Bowl—Arectangular or cylindrical vessel of
should be compared using Student’s t-test for unpaired data
30 to 50-L capacity, with an attached drain board. The lower
and an acceptable probability level chosen by the two parties
portion of the bowl is in the shape of an inverted pyramid or
before testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must
conethatisconnectedtoasliding-diskvalveandashortlength
be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must
of drain pipe. At the bottom of the bowl, above the valve and
agree to interpret future test results in the light of known bias.
drain pipe, is a close-fitting, removable perforated plate
5.2 The wool-base content of wool in any condition or form
(6.2.1.1). The drain pipe is centered over a No. 200 (75-µm)
is a basic quantity. From it may be calculated commercial
sieve, 120 to 200 mm in diameter, supported in a catch-basin.
masses or yields in any of the various recognized defined
6.2.1.1 Two Plates, one with 1 to 2-mm openings, the other
systems used in international commerce (Note 1).
similar plate covered on its upper surface with No. 100
5.2.1 The procedures for determining the wool base content
(150-µm) woven wire cloth.
of greasy wool provided in this test method and in IWTO
6.2.1.2 Thermostatic Device, capable of delivering water to
Method 19-85(E) are in essential agreement.
the scouring bowl at a desired temperature with a tolerance of
NOTE 3—This is not true for scoured wool, as IWTO Method 19-85(E)
63°C.
does not require rescouring of scoured wool containing less than 5%
6.2.1.3 Paddle or other Stirring Device.
residual grease.
6.2.1.4 Spray or Shower Head with a flexible connection
5.3 Not all of the wool base present in a lot of raw wool can
for use in rinsing.
be recovered in useful form by commercial cleaning opera-
6.2.2 Flotation Jar—Aglass or transparent plastic vessel of
tions. The amount of wool loss varies, depending on factors
1to2-Lcapacity,approximately200mmtall,forseparatingby
such as the character of the wool, the nature and percentage of
flotation the short wool fibers retained by the No. 200 (75-µm)
the impurities present, the cleaning process and equipment sieve from associated sand and other heavy impurities.
used, and so forth.
5.4 No ASTM standard specifies or recommends any spe-
Tariff Schedules of the United States, Schedule 3. Part 1, Subpart C, Headnote
cific procedure or practice for estimating anticipated loss of 1 (c).
D584–96 (2005)
6.3 Wringer or Basket Centrifuge, for the removal of excess 8.3 Small Samples—If the mass of the sample is not more
water from the scoured sample before drying in the oven. than three times the scouring capacity of the scouring bowl,
test the entire sample, in one, two, or three portions as may be
6.3.1 Net Bag, having openings of 60 mesh (250 µm) or
finer. Bags are used with a squeeze roll type of wringer or with required.Considerthemaximumscouringcapacityofthebowl
to be the mass of raw wool in grams equal to 12 times the
a centrifuge.
volume of scouring solution in litres.
6.3.2 Metal Can, with bottom formed from 100-mesh (150-
8.3.1 If the sample is a core sample, no further preparation
µm) wire screen supported by a perforated metal plate may be
is required. If it is not a core sample and consists of fibers
used with basket centrifuges. The dimensions of the can must
exceeding 50 mm in length, cut the fibers with scissors or a
be such that the can is capable of containing the scoured
paper cutter to less than 50-mm lengths.
sample, fitting into the centrifuge, and adaptable to the dryer.
8.4 Large Samples—Ifthemassofthesampleexceedsthree
6.4 Dryer—A forced-draft oven or, preferably, a heated air
times the scouring capacity of the bowl (8.3), prepare test
flow-through type of dryer capable of supplying clean air at a
specimens by subsampling as follows:
desired temperature with a tolerance of 62°C.
8.4.1 Place the sample in the chamber of the subsampling
6.5 Muffle Furnace, thermostatically controlled in the range
device(6.1),compresstoadensityof0.2to0.3g/cm ,andtake
of 700 6 25°C.
a full-length core through each opening of the plate.
6.6 Soxhlet Extraction Apparatus, medium size.
8.4.2 Open the chamber, redistribute the wool, compress
and take a second test specimen as in 8.4.1. Repeat 8.4.2 until
7. Reagents
the desired mass of core samples are obtained.
7.1 Scouring Solution A—A solution containing approxi-
8.4.3 Remove, weigh, and retain the remainder of the
mately 0.3 % of soda ash (Na CO ) and 0.1 % of soap having
2 3
sample in an airtight container for use in drawing additional
a titer of not over 25°C. Addition to the solution of approxi-
test specimens, if necessary or desired.
mately 0.3 % of a lime-sequestering agent of the polyphos-
8.4.4 Weigh the blended core samples into individual test
phate type is recommended.
portions in preparation for scouring (10.1).
7.2 Scouring Solution B—A solution containing approxi-
mately 0.15 % of Na CO and 0.05 % of soap having a titer of
2 3
9. Conditioning
not over 25°C.Addition to the solution of approximately 0.3 %
9.1 Neitherpreconditioningnorconditioninginthestandard
of a lime-sequestering agent of the polyphosphate type is
atmosphere for testing is required.
recommended.
NOTE 4—For nonreferee tests, various scouring solutions containing 10. Procedure
nonionic detergents, with or without soda ash or builders, at various
10.1 Scouring—Scour each portion of the sample (8.3)or
temperatures, are sometimes used instead of Scouring SolutionsAand B.
eachtestspecimen(8.4.1,8.4.2)asdirectedin10.1.1or10.1.2,
7.3 Washing Solution—A solution containing approxi-
whichever is applicable.
mately 0.02 % of a nonionic detergent of the polyoxyethylene
10.1.1 Greasy or Pulled Wool:
type.
10.1.1.1 With the coarse perforated plate in place in the
7.4 Alcohol—Either pure ethyl alcohol (C H OH) or spe- scouring bowl, immerse the wool in Scouring Solution A at a
2 5
ciallydenaturedalcoholconformingtoFormula3Aor30ofthe
temperature of 52 6 3°C (not less than 1 L for each 12 g of
U.S. Bureau of Internal Revenue. wool)andstirfor3min.DrainthesolutionthroughtheNo.200
(75-µm) sieve. Spray the wool with a strong stream of warm
8. P
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