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ASTM D3823-07(2012)

(Practice)

Standard Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing Threads

Standard Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing Threads

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
This system of sewing thread ticket numbers was developed to overcome the confusion arising from the use by the thread industry of a multiple number of undefined and unrelated ticketing systems.
The practice is used by sewing thread manufacturers to determine the ticket number to be assigned to a sewing thread. The ticket number is an indicator of the amount of raw fiber in the thread. It is based on greige thread rather than finished thread because finishing processes such as bleaching, dyeing, stretching, mercerizing, or sewing finish application significantly change the apparent thread size so that it may become an inadequate indicator of raw fiber present. Because of the foregoing it is not practical to verify the ticket number by sizing the finished thread.
SCOPE
1.1 This practice establishes standard ticket numbers for sewing thread regardless of fiber content or type of thread.
1.2 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded as the standard; the values in English units are provided as information only and are not exact equivalents.
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety and health practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.

General Information

Status
Historical
Publication Date
31-Jan-2012
ICS
59.080.20 - Yarns
Technical Committee
D13 - Textiles
Drafting Committee
D13.58 - Yarns and Fibers
Current Stage
Ref Project

Relations

Replaces
ASTM D3823-07 - Standard Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing Threads
Effective Date
01-Feb-2012
Replaced By
ASTM D3823-07(2018) - Standard Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing Threads
Effective Date
01-Jul-2018
Referred By
ASTM D4849-21 - Standard Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
Effective Date
01-Feb-2012
Referred By
ASTM D204-02(2021) - Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads
Effective Date
01-Feb-2012

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ASTM D3823-07(2012) - Standard Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing ThreadsASTM D3823-07(2012) - Standard Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing Threads
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ASTM D3823-07(2012) - Standard Practice for Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing Threads
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Standards Content (Sample)


NOTICE: This standard has either been superseded and replaced by a new version or withdrawn.
Contact ASTM International (www.astm.org) for the latest information
Designation: D3823 − 07 (Reapproved 2012)
Standard Practice for
Determining Ticket Numbers for Sewing Threads
This standard is issued under the fixed designation D3823; the number immediately following the designation indicates the year of
original adoption or, in the case of revision, the year of last revision. A number in parentheses indicates the year of last reapproval. A
superscript epsilon (´) indicates an editorial change since the last revision or reapproval.
1. Scope 4. Significance and Use
4.1 This system of sewing thread ticket numbers was
1.1 This practice establishes standard ticket numbers for
developed to overcome the confusion arising from the use by
sewing thread regardless of fiber content or type of thread.
the thread industry of a multiple number of undefined and
1.2 The values stated in inch-pound units are to be regarded
unrelated ticketing systems.
as the standard; the values in English units are provided as
4.2 The practice is used by sewing thread manufacturers to
information only and are not exact equivalents.
determine the ticket number to be assigned to a sewing thread.
1.3 This standard does not purport to address all of the
The ticket number is an indicator of the amount of raw fiber in
safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the
the thread. It is based on greige thread rather than finished
responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appro-
thread because finishing processes such as bleaching, dyeing,
priate safety and health practices and determine the applica-
stretching, mercerizing, or sewing finish application signifi-
bility of regulatory limitations prior to use.
cantlychangetheapparentthreadsizesothatitmaybecomean
inadequate indicator of raw fiber present. Because of the
2. Referenced Documents
foregoing it is not practical to verify the ticket number by
2.1 ASTM Standards: sizing the finished thread.
D123 Terminology Relating to Textiles
5. Sampling
D204 Test Methods for Sewing Threads
D1907 Test Method for Linear Density of Yarn (Yarn Num-
5.1 Lot—Unless otherwise agreed upon between the pur-
ber) by the Skein Method chaser and supplier, a lot shall be a discrete manufacturing unit
D4849 Terminology Related to Yarns and Fibers
produced in a given period of time not to exceed a calendar
3 month.
2.2 ANSI Standard:
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 Sampling Procedures for Inspection by
5.2 LotSample—Selectthenumberofspecimensasdirected
Attributes in ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 using single sampling with a general
inspection level of S1 and a 1.0 AQL.
3. Terminology
5.3 Laboratory Sample—As a laboratory sample for accep-
tance testing, take each unit in the lot sample.
3.1 For all terminology relating to D13.58, Yarns and
Fibers, refer to Terminology D4849.
5.4 Test Specimens—From each package in the laboratory
3.1.1 The following terms are relevant to this standard:
sample, take one specimen.
geige thread, sewing thread, ticket number.
6. Requirements
3.2 For all other terms are related to textiles, refer to
6.1 Sewing thread ticket numbers shall be based on the
Terminology D123.
average resultant yarn number and shall be designated as
indicated in Table 1.
ThispracticeisunderthejurisdictionofASTMCommitteeD13onTextilesand
7. Procedure
is the direct responsibility of Subcommittee D13.58 on Yarns and Fibers.
7.1 Determine in tex the resultant yarn number of the greige
Current edition approved Feb. 1, 2012. Published February 2012. Originally
approved in 1978. Last previous edition approved in 2007 as D3823 – 07. DOI:
thread as directed in Test Methods D204.
10.1520/D3823-07R12.
7.2 Over the most recent 6 months of a 1-year period in
For referenced ASTM standards, visit the ASTM website, www.astm.org, or
contact ASTM Customer Service at service@astm.org. For Annual Book of ASTM
which the greige thread was manufactured, collect at least 100
Standards volume information, refer to the standard’s Document Summary page on
pairs of data, each consisting of a tex v
...

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1.1 This test method covers the determination of the yarn number of all types of cotton, woolen, worsted, and man-made fiber yarns taken from packages; or from any textile fabrics in which the yarns are intact and can be removed in measurable lengths. The test method is not applicable to yarns taken from napped or cut pile fabrics. Because this test method is based on short-length specimens, the results should only be considered as approximations of yarn number.
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SCOPE
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1.1.1 This method may also be used for non-textured yarns.  
1.2 This test method is limited to crimped, multi-filament yarns ranging from 22.0 dtex to 890 dtex (15 denier to 800 denier) and for BCF yarns from 890 dtex to 4200 dtex (800 denier to 3800 denier).  
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Standard Test Method for Twist in Yarns by Direct-Counting

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5.1 Test Method D1423 for testing twist in yarns by direct-counting is considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments because current estimates of between-laboratory precision are acceptable and the method has been used extensively in the trade for acceptance testing.  
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more), comparative tests should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum use the samples for such comparative tests as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material that resulted in the disparate test results and randomly in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, at a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.  
5.2 The determination of twist in a straight section of a yarn is not the simple straightforward operation it appears to be, for the test results may be greatly influenced by variations in test procedures and techniques. In all manipulations, extreme care is necessary to prevent specimen rotation altering the twist level before testing begins.  
5.3 The twist in a yarn before it is packaged may be different from that of the yarn after it has been withdrawn from the package because of changes in tension and the effect of the method of withdrawal. If the yarn is withdrawn over-end, a slight increase or decrease in twist will take place, depending upon the direction of the twist in the yarn, the direction of winding on the package, and the length of the wrap on the package.  
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SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the determination of the amount and direction of twist at the completion of any stage of twisting in single (spun or filament), plied, cabled, or novelty (exclusive of long-term repeat patterns) yarns. The procedures are designed primarily for yarns in packages, but, with special precautions, they are applicable to yarns taken from fabrics. The procedure for spun yarn in 9.2 is also applicable to rovings.  
1.2 For plied yarns, this test method covers the determination of the twist of the plied yarns and the twist of the single yarn before plying. For cabled yarns, the test method covers the determination of the cable or hawser twist; the twist of the plied yarn after plying, but prior to the last twisting operation; and the twist of the single yarn before plying. Procedures are also included for the determination of the twists of the single and plied yarn components as they lie in the final structure. Also, directions are included for the determination of twist in plied yarn made with direct cabling technology.  
1.3 This test method is not intended for yarns that extend more than 5.0 % when tension is increased from 2.5 to 7.5 mN/tex [0.25 to 0.75 gf/tex]. Following the procedures of this test method for such yarns would be independent of the bias and precision determined for this test method. The report from such testing should include the tension used for this testing.  
1.4 Units—The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore, to ensure conformance with the standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.
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5.2 Practice D2258 may not give the most efficient sampling plan that might be devised in special situations but does present a general procedure that gives satisfactory precision with an economical amount of sampling. Many plans that include stratified sampling can be found in textbooks and through the use of statistical software tools and calculators.  
5.2.1 If not specified by the purchaser, the manufacturer will define suitable production lots based on one or more of the following: supply lot, production shift/time segment, production equipment or production line, operator, designated shipment, production run, or a combination herein.  
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5.2.3 Sampling count and number of specimens will be based on standard practice listed within the document. Increase or decrease in count or frequency might be applied based on typical standard deviation, precision and confidence level, Measurement System...
SCOPE
1.1 This practice describes a procedure for the division of shipments of yarn into test lots and the sampling of such lots for testing.  
1.1.1 This practice can be used for lot sample testing of yarns for both pre-fabric production and post-fabric production.  
1.2 This practice is applicable to single, plied, or cabled yarns, and cords, made of any fiber or mixture of fibers, and supported on any form of package, including beams.  
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1.4 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore, to ensure conformance with the standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
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Standard Test Method for Yarn Number and Yarn Number Variability Using Automated Tester

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
5.1 Test Method D6612 for yarn number and yarn number variability is satisfactory for acceptance of commercial shipments and is used in the trade.  
5.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between the reported test results for two or more laboratories, comparative tests should be performed by those laboratories to determine if there is a statistical bias between them, using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, samples used for each comparative tests should be as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that results in disparate results during initial testing, and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. Other fabrics with established tests values are used for this purpose. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared appropriate statistical analysis and a probability level chosen by the two parties before testing begins, at a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results adjusted in consideration of the known bias.  
5.1.2 The average results from the two laboratories should be compared using appropriate statistical analysis and a probability level chosen by the two parties before the testing is begun. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected or the purchaser and the supplier must agree to interpret future test results with consideration to the known bias.  
5.2 Test Method D6612 also is used for the quality control of filament yarns.  
5.3 Indices of Variability:  
5.3.1 Coefficient of Variation—%CV is a standard statistical calculation and is the most common index of yarn unevenness. For most textile applications in the 80 to 330 dtex (70 to 300 denier) range, a 1.0 to 1.3 %CV is adequate. %CV of yarns coarser than 666 dtex (600 denier) is not routine and usually not meaningful. %CV is less discriminating that %DS.  
5.3.2 Bad/Good Test—%BGT...
SCOPE
1.1 This test method covers the measurement of yarn number up to 4000 dtex (3600 denier) and related variability properties of filament and spun yarns using an automated tester with capability for measuring mass variability characteristics.  
1.2 Yarn number variability properties include percent density spread (%DS), coefficient of variation (%CV), density frequency variation.  
Note 1: For determination of yarn number by use of reel and balance, refer to Test Method D1907. For another method of measuring variability (unevenness) in yarn, refer to Test Method D1425.  
1.3 The values stated in either SI units or inch-pound units are to be regarded separately as standard. The values stated in each system are not necessarily exact equivalents; therefore to ensure conformance with this standard, each system shall be used independently of the other, and values from the two systems shall not be combined.  
1.4 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.5 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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ASTM
ASTM D204-02(2021)(Test Method)
Standard Test Methods for Sewing Threads

SIGNIFICANCE AND USE
4.1 Acceptance Testing—The test methods in Test Methods D204 for the determination of the properties of sewing thread are considered satisfactory for acceptance testing of commercial shipments of sewing thread, unless specified in the individual test method. These test methods are the best available and are used extensively in the trade.  
4.1.1 If there are differences of practical significance between reported test results for two laboratories (or more) comparative test should be performed to determine if there is a statistical bias between them using competent statistical assistance. As a minimum, use the samples for such a comparative tests that are as homogeneous as possible, drawn from the same lot of material as the samples that resulted in disparate results during initial testing and randomly assigned in equal numbers to each laboratory. The test results from the laboratories involved should be compared using a statistical test for unpaired data, a probability level chosen prior to the testing series. If a bias is found, either its cause must be found and corrected, or future test results for that material must be adjusted in consideration of the known bias.
SCOPE
1.1 These test methods can be used to evaluate sewing threads of any fiber.  
1.1.1 The test methods in this standard are intended to evaluate only sewing thread taken from thread holders.  
1.2 These test methods only provide for the measurement of sewing thread physical properties. These test methods do not address any other properties that may be important for the satisfactory performance of sewing threads under particular end use conditions.  
1.3 These test methods can be used to measure the following properties:    
Sections  
Colorfastness to Drycleaning  
73 – 83  
Colorfastness to Laundering  
62 – 72  
Colorfastness to Water Migration  
84 – 94  
Diameter  
43 – 50  
Length per Thread Holder  
34 – 42  
Shrinkage, Single Strand  
51 – 61  
Dry Heat  
58.1  
Boiling Water  
58.2  
Strength and Elongation  
15 – 21  
Single Strand—Conditioned  
19.1.1  
Single Strand—Wet  
19.1.2  
Loop Strength  
19.2  
Knot Strength  
19.3  
Twist  
22 – 27  
Twist Balance  
28 – 33  
Yarn Number  
7 – 14
Note 1: For methods covering tests on prepared seams, refer to Test Methods D1683/D1683M and D3940.  
1.4 The values stated in SI units are to be regarded as standard. The values given in parentheses after SI units are provided for information only and are not considered standard.  
1.5 This standard does not purport to address all of the safety concerns, if any, associated with its use. It is the responsibility of the user of this standard to establish appropriate safety, health, and environmental practices and determine the applicability of regulatory limitations prior to use.  
1.6 This international standard was developed in accordance with internationally recognized principles on standardization established in the Decision on Principles for the Development of International Standards, Guides and Recommendations issued by the World Trade Organization Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) Committee.

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