prEN ISO 20137

Leather - Chemical tests - Guidelines for testing critical chemicals in leather (ISO/DIS 20137:2022)

ISO 20137:2017 gives guidelines to apply the available chemical test methods for leather. This information can be used by those involved in setting specifications for leather, especially for those parameters relating to restricted chemical substances.
Lists of restricted chemicals contain many substances that are not relevant to the leather industry. Those chemical substances that are not mentioned in this document do not need to be determined, thus avoiding unnecessary analytical costs.

Leder - Chemische Prüfverfahren - Richtlinien für die Prüfung kritischer Chemikalien in Leder (ISO/DIS 20137:2022)

Cuir - Essais chimiques - Lignes directrices pour les essais de produits chimiques critiques sur le cuir (ISO/DIS 20137:2022)

ISO 20137:2017 fournit des lignes directrices pour l'application des méthodes d'essais chimiques disponibles pour le cuir. Ces informations peuvent être utilisées par les personnes chargées d'établir des spécifications pour le cuir, en particulier pour les paramètres liés aux substances chimiques faisant l'objet de restrictions.
De nombreuses substances figurant dans les listes de produits chimiques faisant l'objet de restrictions ne sont pas pertinentes pour l'industrie du cuir. Les substances chimiques qui ne sont pas mentionnées dans le présent document n'ont pas besoin d'être déterminées, ce qui évite des coûts analytiques inutiles.

Usnje - Kemijski preskusi - Smernice za preskušanje kritičnih kemikalij v usnju (ISO/DIS 20137:2022)

General Information

• Status: Not Published
• Publication Date: 18-Dec-2024
• ICS: 59.140.30 - Leather and furs
• Technical Committee: CEN/TC 289 - Leather
• Drafting Committee: CEN/TC 289/WG 1 - Chemical test methods
• Current Stage: 4599 - Dispatch of FV draft to CMC - Finalization for Vote
• Start Date: 02-Aug-2023
• Completion Date: 02-Aug-2023
• Ref Project: oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023 - Leather - Chemical tests - Guidelines for testing critical chemicals in leather (ISO/DIS 20137:2022)

Relations

• Revises: EN ISO 20137:2017 - Leather - Chemical tests - Guidelines for testing critical chemicals in leather (ISO 20137:2017)
• Effective Date: 18-Jan-2023

Standards Content (Sample)

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023
01-januar-2023
Usnje - Kemijski preskusi - Smernice za preskušanje kritičnih kemikalij v usnju
(ISO/DIS 20137:2022)

Leather - Chemical tests - Guidelines for testing critical chemicals in leather (ISO/DIS

20137:2022)

Leder - Chemische Prüfverfahren - Richtlinien für die Prüfung kritischer Chemikalien in

Leder (ISO/DIS 20137:2022)

Cuir - Essais chimiques - Lignes directrices pour les essais de produits chimiques

critiques sur le cuir (ISO/DIS 20137:2022)
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: prEN ISO 20137
ICS:
59.140.30 Usnje in krzno Leather and furs
oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023 en,fr,de

2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023
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oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD
ISO/DIS 20137
IULTCS
IUC 36
IULTCS Secretariat: ISO
Voting begins on: Voting terminates on:
2022-11-25 2023-02-17
Leather — Chemical tests — Guidelines for testing critical
chemicals in leather

Cuir — Essais chimiques — Lignes directrices pour les essais de produits chimiques critiques sur le cuir

ICS: 59.140.30
This document is circulated as received from the committee secretariat.
THIS DOCUMENT IS A DRAFT CIRCULATED
FOR COMMENT AND APPROVAL. IT IS
ISO/CEN PARALLEL PROCESSING
THEREFORE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AND MAY
NOT BE REFERRED TO AS AN INTERNATIONAL
STANDARD UNTIL PUBLISHED AS SUCH.
IN ADDITION TO THEIR EVALUATION AS
BEING ACCEPTABLE FOR INDUSTRIAL,
TECHNOLOGICAL, COMMERCIAL AND
USER PURPOSES, DRAFT INTERNATIONAL
STANDARDS MAY ON OCCASION HAVE TO
BE CONSIDERED IN THE LIGHT OF THEIR
POTENTIAL TO BECOME STANDARDS TO
WHICH REFERENCE MAY BE MADE IN
Reference numbers
NATIONAL REGULATIONS.
ISO/DIS 20137:2022(E)
RECIPIENTS OF THIS DRAFT ARE INVITED
IULTCS/IUC 36:2022(E)
TO SUBMIT, WITH THEIR COMMENTS,
NOTIFICATION OF ANY RELEVANT PATENT
RIGHTS OF WHICH THEY ARE AWARE AND TO
PROVIDE SUPPORTING DOCUMENTATION. © ISO 2022
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oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023
ISO/DIS 20137:2022(E)
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD
ISO/DIS 20137
IULTCS
IULTCS Secretariat: ISO
Voting begins on: Voting terminates on:
Leather — Chemical tests — Guidelines for testing critical
chemicals in leather

Cuir — Essais chimiques — Lignes directrices pour les essais de produits chimiques critiques sur le cuir

ICS: 59.140.30
This document is circulated as received from the committee secretariat.
COPYRIGHT PROTECTED DOCUMENT
THIS DOCUMENT IS A DRAFT CIRCULATED
FOR COMMENT AND APPROVAL. IT IS
© ISO 2022
ISO/CEN PARALLEL PROCESSING
THEREFORE SUBJECT TO CHANGE AND MAY

All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may

NOT BE REFERRED TO AS AN INTERNATIONAL

be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on STANDARD UNTIL PUBLISHED AS SUCH.

the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below

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or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester. BEING ACCEPTABLE FOR INDUSTRIAL,

TECHNOLOGICAL, COMMERCIAL AND
ISO copyright office
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CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
STANDARDS MAY ON OCCASION HAVE TO
BE CONSIDERED IN THE LIGHT OF THEIR
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
POTENTIAL TO BECOME STANDARDS TO
Phone: [phone]
WHICH REFERENCE MAY BE MADE IN
Reference numbers
Email: [e-mail]
NATIONAL REGULATIONS.
Website: www.iso.org ISO/DIS 20137:2022(E)
RECIPIENTS OF THIS DRAFT ARE INVITED
IULTCS/IUC 36:2022(E)
Published in Switzerland
TO SUBMIT, WITH THEIR COMMENTS,
NOTIFICATION OF ANY RELEVANT PATENT
RIGHTS OF WHICH THEY ARE AWARE AND TO
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
PROVIDE SUPPORTING DOCUMENTATION. © ISO 2022
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oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023
ISO/DIS 20137:2022(E)
IULTCS/IUC 36:2022(E)
Contents Page

Foreword ........................................................................................................................................................................................................................................iv

Introduction .................................................................................................................................................................................................................................v

1 Scope ................................................................................................................................................................................................................................. 1

2 Normative references ..................................................................................................................................................................................... 1

3 Terms and definitions .................................................................................................................................................................................... 2

4 Chemical substances potentially found in leather .......................................................................................................... 3

4.1 Chemical test methods for substances used by the leather industry with no legal

restrictions for leather .................................................................................................................................................................... 3

4.2 Chemical test methods for substances previously used by the leather industry ....................... 3

4.3 Chemical test methods for substances not used by the leather industry .......................................... 3

Annex A (informative) Substances lists............................................................................................................................................................ 9

Bibliography .............................................................................................................................................................................................................................15

iii
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
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oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023
ISO/DIS 20137:2022(E)
IULTCS/IUC 36:2022(E)
Foreword

ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards

bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out

through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical

committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International

organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.

ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of

electrotechnical standardization.

The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are

described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular the different approval criteria needed for the

different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the

editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).

Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of

patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of

any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or

on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).

Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not

constitute an endorsement.

For an explanation on the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and

expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to the

World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see the following

URL: www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html

This document was prepared by the Chemical Tests Commission of the International Union of Leather

Technologists and Chemists Societies (IUC Commission, IULTCS) in collaboration with the European

Committee for Standardization (CEN) Technical Committee CEN/TC 289, Leather, the secretariat of

which is held by UNI, in accordance with the Agreement on technical cooperation between ISO and CEN

(Vienna Agreement).

IULTCS, originally formed in 1897, is a world-wide organization of professional leather societies to

further the advancement of leather science and technology. IULTCS has three Commissions, which

are responsible for establishing international methods for the sampling and testing of leather. ISO

recognizes IULTCS as an international standardizing body for the preparation of test methods for

leather.
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
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oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023
ISO/DIS 20137:2022(E)
IULTCS/IUC 36:2022(E)
Introduction

This document was prepared in collaboration by IULTCS and by CEN/TC 289 Leather in order to provide

an overview of chemical test methods for the leather industry. This can be used by those involved

in setting specifications for leather, especially for those parameters relating to restricted chemical

substances.

Regulations restrict the use of certain chemicals in consumer products. The leather industry has

already taken actions by replacing the restricted substances or assuming the limits imposed by these

restrictions. Many brand name manufacturers require certificates of compliance from their suppliers

but too often these refer to analytical methods from other industries that are not suitable for use in

testing leather.

Through the collaboration of IULTCS and CEN/TC 289, a considerable number of leather specific EN and

ISO standard test methods have been developed for the chemical analysis of leather. The International

Standards are tested by inter-laboratory studies, have been proven scientifically valid and are subjected

to updating processes according to ISO protocols.
Chemical analysis of leather

Leather is a complex substrate to chemically analyse. After tanning, leather typically undergoes wet-

processing in aqueous media at low temperatures (<60 °C) and in an acid pH range of 3,5 to 5,5. The

characteristic properties of leather are achieved by mostly using a range of anionic retanning agents

(natural and/or synthetic), polymers and oils, as well as anionic dyes for achieving the required colour.

In analytical procedures, when leather is extracted, some of these substances can be removed and make

a complex matrix for the analysis. This should be considered when establishing quantification limits for

leather analyses. Too often unrealistic limits established in aqueous solutions, e.g. waste water analysis,

are quoted in specifications for leather.

This document gives an overview of those internationally accepted chemical test procedures established

specifically for leather.
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
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oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023
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oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023
ISO/DIS 20137:2022(E)
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD
IULTCS/IUC 36:2022(E)
Leather — Chemical tests — Guidelines for testing critical
chemicals in leather
1 Scope

This document gives guidelines to apply the available chemical test methods for leather. This

information can be used by those involved in setting specifications for leather, especially for those

parameters relating to restricted chemical substances.

Lists of restricted chemicals contain many substances that are not relevant to the leather industry.

Those chemical substances that are not mentioned in this document do not need to be determined, thus

avoiding unnecessary analytical costs.
2 Normative references

The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content

constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For

undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.

ISO 4045, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of pH and difference figure

ISO 5398-1, Leather — Chemical determination of chromic oxide content — Part 1: Quantification by

titration

ISO 5398-2, Leather — Chemical determination of chromic oxide content — Part 2: Quantification by

colorimetric determination

ISO 5398-3, Leather — Chemical determination of chromic oxide content — Part 3: Quantification by

atomic absorption spectrometry

ISO 5398-4, Leather — Chemical determination of chromic oxide content — Part 4: Quantification by

inductively coupled plasma (ICP)
ISO 11936, Leather – Determination of total content of certain bisphenols

ISO 13365-1, Leather — Chemical determination of the preservative (TCMTB, PCMC, OPP, OIT) content in

leather by liquid chromatography — Part 1: Acetonitrile extraction method

ISO 13365-2, Leather — Chemical determination of the preservative (TCMTB, PCMC, OPP, OIT) content in

leather by liquid chromatography — Part 2: Artificial perspiration extraction method

ISO 15115, Leather — Vocabulary

ISO 16181-1, Footwear — Critical substances potentially present in footwear and footwear components —

Part 1: Determination of phthalate with solvent extraction

ISO 16181-2, Footwear — Critical substances potentially present in footwear and footwear components —

Part 2: Determination of phthalate without solvent extraction

ISO 16186, Footwear — Critical substances potentially present in footwear and footwear components —

Determination of dimethyl fumarate (DMFU)

ISO 16189, Footwear — Critical substances potentially present in footwear and footwear components —

Test method to quantitatively determine dimethylformamide in footwear materials
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
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oSIST prEN ISO 20137:2023
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IULTCS/IUC 36:2022(E)

ISO 16190, Footwear — Critical substances potentially present in footwear and footwear components —

Test method to quantitatively determine polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) in footwear materials

ISO 17070, Leather — Chemical tests — Determination of tetrachlorophenol-, trichlorophenol-,

dichlorophenol-, monochlorophenol-isomers and pentachlorophenol content

ISO 17072-1, Leather — Chemical determination of metal content — Part 1: Extractable metals

ISO 17072-2, Leather — Chemical determination of metal content — Part 2: Total metal content

ISO/17075-1, Leather — Chemical determination of chromium (VI) content in leather — Part 1: Colorimetric

method

ISO/17075-2, Leather — Chemical determination of chromium (VI) content in leather — Part 2:

Chromatographic method

ISO 17226-1, Leather — Chemical determination of formaldehyde content — Part 1: Method using high-

performance liquid chromatography

ISO 17226-3, Leather — Chemical determination of formaldehyde content — Part 3: Determination of

formaldehyde emissions from leather

ISO 17234-1, Leather — Chemical tests for the determination of certain azo colourants in dyed leathers —

Part 1: Determination of certain aromatic amines derived from azo colourants

ISO 17234-2, Leather — Chemical tests for the determination of certain azo colorants in dyed leathers —

Part 2: Determination of 4-aminoazobenzene

ISO 18218-1, Leather — Determination of ethoxylated alkylphenols — Part 1: Direct method

ISO 18218-2, Leather — Determination of ethoxylated alkylphenols — Part 2: Indirect method

ISO 18219-1, Leather — Determination of chlorinated hydrocarbons in leather — Part 1: Chromatographic

method for short-chain chlorinated paraffins (SCCPs)

ISO 18219-2, Leather — Determination of chlorinated hydrocarbons in leather — Part 2: Chromatographic

method for middle-chain chlorinated paraffins (MCCPs)

ISO 19070, Leather — Chemical determination of N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone (NMP) in leather

ISO 23702-1, Leather – Per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances – Part 1: Determination of non-volatile

compounds by extraction method using liquid chromatography

ISO/TS 16179, Footwear — Critical substances potentially present in footwear and footwear components

— Determination of organotin compounds in footwear materials
EN 1122, Plastics — Determination of cadmium - Wet decomposition method
EN 15987, Leather — Terminology — Key definitions for the leather trade
EN 16778, Protective gloves — The determination of Dimethylformamide in gloves
3 Terms and definitions

For the purposes of this document, the terms and definitions given in ISO 15115 and EN 15987 apply.

ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:

— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
© ISO 2022 – All rights reserved
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4 Chemical substances potentially found in leather

4.1 Chemical test methods for substances used by the leather industry with no legal

restrictions for leather

Table 1 includes those chemical substances conventionally used in the various leather manufacturing

processes. While not legally restricted, some of these substances can be restricted in specifications for

the final leather article.
4.2 Chemical test methods for substances previously used by the leather industry

Table 2 shows substances that have historically been used in the leather industry, but at the present

time are unlikely to be found in leather articles.
4.3 Chemical test methods for substances not used by the leather industry

Table 3 includes those chemical substances that are restricted but not used in the leather industry. The

presence of these substances in leather articles is only likely due to external conditions/contamination.

Table 1 — Substances used in the leather industry with no legal restrictions for leather

Suitable method for
Substance/material CAS no. Uses
measurement
In the leather industry, bisphenol
F can be an impurity in synthetic
tanning agents. Bisphenol S is a
Bisphenol S 80-09-1
ISO 11936 monomer that is used to manu-
Bisphenol F 620-92-8
facture synthetic tanning agents,
which can lead to residues in the
final product.
Total Cr in leather is nor-
mally reported as chro-
mium (III) oxide using
one of the techniques:
Basic chromium (III) sulfate is the
ISO 5398-1
most commonly used universal
tanning agent for leather.
Chromium – total ISO 5398-2
The trivalent Cr(III) form is not
ISO 5398-3
hazardous.
ISO 5398-4
Alternatively:
ISO 17072-2
Basic chromium (III) sulfate is
the most commonly used univer-
sal tanning agent for leather.
Chromium – extractable ISO 17072-1
The trivalent Cr(III) form
...