EN 13089:2011/FprA1

Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods

This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools for use in mountaineering including climbing, and as a buried anchor for protection against falls.

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Eisgeräte fest, die beim Berg¬steigen, einschließlich Klettern, verwendet werden und als vergrabener Ankerpunkt zum Schutz gegen Absturz dienen.

Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai

La présente Norme européenne spécifie des exigences de sécurité et des méthodes d’essai relatives aux outils à glace utilisés dans la pratique de l’alpinisme et de l’escalade, ainsi que comme point d’ancrage enfoui dans la neige pour la protection contre les chutes.

Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode TC: Gorniška oprema - Ledna orodja - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode

General Information

• Status: Not Published
• ICS: 97.220.40 - Outdoor and water sports equipment
• Technical Committee: CEN/TC 136 - Sports, playground and other recreational equipment
• Drafting Committee: CEN/TC 136/WG 5 - Mountaineering and climbing equipment
• Current Stage: 5060 - Closure of Vote - Formal Approval
• Start Date: 18-Feb-2015
• Due Date: 25-Jan-2016
• Completion Date: 18-Feb-2015
• Directive: 89/686/EEC - Council Directive 89/686/EEC of 21 December 1989 on the approximation of the laws of the Member States relating to personal protective equipment
• Directive: 92/59/EEC - General product safety
• Mandate: M/031 - Standardization mandate to CEN/CENELEC concerning standards for Personal Protective Equipment
• Ref Project: SIST EN 13089:2011/kFprA1:2014 - Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods

Relations

• Merged Into: EN 13089:2011+A1:2015 - Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
• Effective Date: 18-Jan-2023
• Amends: EN 13089:2011 - Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
• Effective Date: 21-May-2014

Overview

EN 13089:2011/FprA1 is a European Standard developed by CEN that defines the safety requirements and test methods for ice-tools used in mountaineering and climbing activities. This standard ensures that ice-tools, including those used as buried anchors for fall protection, meet strict safety criteria to protect users during alpine and ice climbing expeditions. It is relevant for manufacturers, distributors, and users of mountaineering equipment focusing on ice-tools.

The standard is aligned with EU Directive 89/686/EEC, supporting essential health and safety requirements, and aims to harmonize product markings, safety specifications, and information provisions across the European market.

Key Topics

• Marking Requirements: Ice-tools must be clearly, indelibly, and durably marked with:
  • Manufacturer name or authorized EU representative
  • Category designation based on shaft and pick types (type 2 tools identified with a “T” inside a circle)
  • A pictogram instructing users to consult manufacturer information for safe use
• Safety Specifications: Ensures ice-tool components such as shafts and picks meet defined safety standards to resist failure and provide reliable performance during technical climbs and use as anchors.
• Test Methods: Standardized test procedures to assess mechanical strength, durability, and safety features of ice-tools under various conditions to simulate real-world use.
• Manufacturer Information: Revised requirements for information supplied with the product, including clear explanations of markings and safe usage guidelines to enhance user awareness and reduce accidents.

Applications

EN 13089:2011/FprA1 applies to a wide range of ice-tools used in alpine sports, including:

• Mountaineering and Ice Climbing: Handheld ice-tools such as ice axes and ice hammers designed for climbing frozen surfaces safely
• Safety Anchors: Ice-tools intended for use as buried protection points during climbing falls, ensuring structural reliability and user safety
• Manufacturing and Quality Control: Guiding manufacturers in designing, testing, and labeling ice-tools to meet European safety standards, facilitating market access and consumer trust
• Retail and Distribution: Providing clear product safety markings and information helps distributors comply with regulations and inform customers accurately.

Related Standards

For a comprehensive approach to mountaineering equipment safety, EN 13089:2011/FprA1 complements other standards such as:

• EN 892 - Safety requirements for mountaineering harnesses
• EN 959 - Safety specifications for mountaineering helmets
• EN 12277 - Specifications for mountaineering harnesses
• EN ISO 20345 - Safety footwear for outdoor activities including mountaineering
• UIAA Safety Standards - Guidelines developed by the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation for climbing gear safety

These interconnected standards establish a robust framework ensuring that all components of climbing and mountaineering gear provide maximum protection and performance.

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Keywords: EN 13089:2011/FprA1, ice-tools safety standard, mountaineering equipment, ice climbing gear, ice-tool test methods, safety requirements, climbing anchors, CEN standards, European mountaineering equipment, alpine safety equipment, outdoor sports safety guidelines.

Standards Content (Sample)

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-december-2014
Gorniška oprema - Orodje za led - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Exigences de sécurité et
méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 13089:2011/FprA1
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

EUROPEAN STANDARD
FINAL DRAFT
EN 13089:2011
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
FprA1
September 2014
ICS 97.220.40
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Ice-tools - Safety requirements and
test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Outils à glace - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Eisgeräte - Sicherheitstechnische
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This draft amendment is submitted to CEN members for unique acceptance procedure. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee
CEN/TC 136.
This draft amendment A1, if approved, will modify the European Standard EN 13089:2011. If this draft becomes an amendment, CEN
members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for inclusion of this amendment
into the relevant national standard without any alteration.

This draft amendment was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made
by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre has
the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania,
Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Turkey and United
Kingdom.
Recipients of this draft are invited to submit, with their comments, notification of any relevant patent rights of which they are aware and to
provide supporting documentation.

Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without notice and
shall not be referred to as a European Standard.

EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Avenue Marnix 17, B-1000 Brussels
© 2014 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 13089:2011/FprA1:2014
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