ISO 20537
(Main)Footwear — Identification of defects during visual inspection — Vocabulary
Footwear — Identification of defects during visual inspection — Vocabulary
This document defines the most common terms related to defects that occur in the manufacture, storage and usage of footwear and that can be determined during visual inspection of the end product. NOTE The photos are given as examples and do not represent all possible instances.
Chaussures — Identification des défauts lors d'un contrôle visuel — Vocabulaire
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Footwear — Identification of
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Vocabulary
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© ISO 2024
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may
be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on
the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below
or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
ISO copyright office
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
Phone: +41 22 749 01 11
Email: copyright@iso.org
Website: www.iso.org
Published in Switzerland
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
ii
Contents Page
Foreword .iv
Introduction .v
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
3.1 General defects .1
3.2 Defects in materials aspects .4
3.3 Defects in components .5
3.3.1 Defects in upper .5
3.3.2 Defects in counter and toe puff .8
3.3.3 Defects in lining and insock.10
3.3.4 Defects in welt and foxing .11
3.3.5 Defects in heel . . 12
3.3.6 Defects in outsole.14
3.3.7 Defects in other components . 15
3.4 Manufacturing defects .17
3.4.1 Defects in assembly .17
3.4.2 Gluing defects .19
3.4.3 Sewing defects . 20
3.4.4 Defects in other process . 23
3.5 Defects within pairs .24
3.6 Defects in markings . 28
Bibliography .30
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
iii
Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through
ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical committee
has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations,
governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely
with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are described
in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the different types
of ISO document should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the editorial rules of the
ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).
ISO draws attention to the possibility that the implementation of this document may involve the use of (a)
patent(s). ISO takes no position concerning the evidence, validity or applicability of any claimed patent
rights in respect thereof. As of the date of publication of this document, ISO had not received notice of (a)
patent(s) which may be required to implement this document. However, implementers are cautioned that
this may not represent the latest information, which may be obtained from the patent database available at
www.iso.org/patents. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and expressions
related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to the World Trade
Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), see www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 216, Footwear, in collaboration with the
European Committee for Standardization (CEN) Technical Committee CEN/TC 309, Footwear, in accordance
with the Agreement on technical cooperation between ISO and CEN (Vienna Agreement).
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at www.iso.org/members.html.
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
iv
Introduction
Visual inspection is important for manufacturers, suppliers, inspection organizations and costumers as one
of the quality indicators of footwear products. This document is not only intended as a basis for assessing
footwear appearance defects but also as a reference material and training material for the footwear industry.
The presence of one of these defects in footwear does not automatically imply that the footwear is
substandard. Suppliers and purchasers can still reach an agreement on the scope and level of acceptance for
defects in the goods, based on the intended use of the footwear.
Due to the development of material and technology in the footwear industry, as well as insufficient
photographic resources, it is impossible to define all terms for identification of defects during visual
inspection of footwear. The list of terms given in this document is not exhaustive.
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
v
International Standard ISO 20537:2024(en)
Footwear — Identification of defects during visual inspection
— Vocabulary
1 Scope
This document defines the most common terms related to defects that occur in the manufacture, storage
and usage of footwear and that can be determined during visual inspection of the end product.
NOTE The photos are given as examples and do not represent all possible instances.
2 Normative references
There are no normative references in this document.
3 Terms and definitions
ISO and IEC maintain terminology databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1 General defects
Term and definition Examples
3.1.1
colour variation
obvious difference in colour that can be seen in the same
area within a pair, or in one component part or in the
adjacent areas of one item of footwear
Note 1 to entry: Intentional designs are not included.
3.1.2
damaged shoe
footwear that has changed in appearance due to careless
operation that adversely affects its performance
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
Term and definition Examples
3.1.3
inconformity with the design
situation when a product does not conform to the reference
sample or drawing which both parties have agreed upon
drawing product
3.1.4
mildewing
infecting process by microorganisms on material at any
part of the footwear
3.1.5
non-compliant box
shoe box that does not conform with the footwear inside
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
Term and definition Examples
3.1.6
poor printing
printing on footwear that is incomplete or unclear
3.1.7
soiled shoe
shoe with dirt or adhesive mark on the upper, lining or sides
of the sole due to careless handling or cleaning
3.1.8
spue
white frost-like layer that appears on the surface of footwear
3.1.9
weave fault
defect that reduces the expected performance of the fabric
Note 1 to entry: Related defects are described in ISO 8498
and ISO 8499.
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
3.2 Defects in materials aspects
Term and definition Examples
3.2.1
air hole
small hole which develops in the colloid structure of materials
3.2.2
colour migration
discolouration caused by movement of colour from one
material to another
3.2.3
crazing
cracks in the coating of upper materials
3.2.4
discolouration
staining or fading of the original material colour, either in
discrete areas or across the whole product
3.2.5
impurity
small particles that do not belong to the original formulation
and show on the material
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
Term and definition Examples
3.2.6
pit
small hole in the surface of footwear
3.2.7
shade variation
differences within materials that cause a difference in the
shade of the finished footwear
3.2.8
sulfur blooming
yellow or white layer that appears on the surface of rubber
materials
3.3 Defects in components
3.3.1 Defects in upper
Term and definition Examples
3.3.1.1
broken folding
folding of upper over the edge that has broken during the
making or wearing process
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
Term and definition Examples
3.3.1.2
crease on the upper
wrinkles on the upper area of footwear due to poor sewing
process
3.3.1.3
delamination of upper
separation of upper into its constituent layers, either in
whole or in part
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
Term and definition Examples
3.3.1.4
exposed lasting margin
scoured lasting margin of the upper that is exposed above
the lasting edge
3.3.1.5
grain crack
grain surface of leather in upper that is split or cracked, or
on which a rupture pattern has developed
3.3.1.6
wrinkled leather
loose grain
grain whose attachment to corium has been eroded, giving rise
to pronounced wrinkles when leather is bent, grain inside
[SOURCE: ISO 15115:2019, 3.55, modified — the preferred
term “wrinkled leather” has been added.]
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
3.3.2 Defects in counter and toe puff
Term and definition Examples
3.3.2.1
collapsed counter
counter area of footwear that has collapsed due to the
stiffener either becoming detached or weakened
3.3.2.2
collapsed toe puff
toe that is distorted and buckled because the reinforcement
has collapsed within, leaving creases and/or dents
PROOF/ÉPREUVE
Term and definition Examples
3.3.2.3
uneven counter
counter edge that has become creased
Note 1 to entry: Uneven counter can be
...
ISO/DISPRF 20537:2024(E)
Date:2024-03-31
ISO/TC 216/WG 3
Secretariat: UNE
Date: 2024-11-19
Footwear — Identification of defects during visual inspection —
Vocabulary
PROOF
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication
may be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying,
or posting on the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO
at the address below or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
ISO copyright office
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
Phone: + 41 22 749 01 11
Fax: +41 22 749 09 47
EmailE-mail: copyright@iso.org
Website: www.iso.org
Published in Switzerland
ii © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
ii
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Contents
Foreword . iv
Introduction . v
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
3.1 General defects . 1
3.2 Defects in materials aspects . 6
3.3 Defects in components . 11
3.4 Manufacturing defects. 37
3.5 Defects within pairs . 54
3.6 Defects in markings . 63
Bibliography . 66
iii
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out through
ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical committee has been
established has the right to be represented on that committee. International organizations, governmental and
non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work. ISO collaborates closely with the
International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are described
in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the different types of
ISO document should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the editorial rules of the
ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).
ISO draws attention to the possibility that the implementation of this document may involve the use of (a)
patent(s). ISO takes no position concerning the evidence, validity or applicability of any claimed patent rights
in respect thereof. As of the date of publication of this document, ISO had not received notice of (a) patent(s)
which may be required to implement this document. However, implementers are cautioned that this may not
represent the latest information, which may be obtained from the patent database available at
www.iso.org/patents. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and expressions
related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to the World Trade
Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT), see www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 216, Footwear, in collaboration with the
European Committee for Standardization (CEN) Technical Committee CEN/TC 309, Footwear, in accordance
with the Agreement on technical cooperation between ISO and CEN (Vienna Agreement).
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at www.iso.org/members.html.
iv © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
iv
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Introduction
Visual inspection is important for manufacturers, suppliers, inspection organizations and costumers as one of
the quality indicators of footwear products. This document is not only intended as a basis for assessing
footwear appearance defects but also as a reference material and training material for the footwear industry.
The presence of one of these defects in footwear does not automatically imply that the footwear is
substandard. Suppliers and purchasers can still reach an agreement on the scope and level of acceptance of
goods provided the limits of thefor defects and allowance have been made, bearing in mindthe goods, based
on the intended use of the footwear.
Due to the development of material and technology in the footwear industry, as well as insufficient
photographic resources, it is impossible to define all terms for identification of defects during visual inspection
of footwear. The list of terms given in this document is not exhaustive.
v
DRAFT INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO/DIS 20537:2023(E)
Footwear — Identification of defects during visual inspection —
Vocabulary
1 Scope
This document defines the most common terms related to defects that occur in the manufacture, storage and
usage of footwear and that can be determined during visual inspection of the end product.
NOTE The photos are given as examples and do not represent all possible instances.
2 Normative references
There are no normative references in this document.
3 Terms and definitions
ISO and IEC maintain terminology databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— — ISO Online browsing platform: available at https://www.iso.org/obp
— — IEC Electropedia: available at https://www.electropedia.org/
3.1 General defects
Term and definition Examples
3.1.1
colour variation
obvious difference in colour that can be seen in the
same area within a pair, or in one component part or in
the
adjacent areas of one item of footwear
Note 1 to entry: Intentional designs are not included.
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Term and definition Examples
3.1.2
damaged shoe
changefootwear that has changed in appearance
occurring on footwear due to careless operation that
adversely affects theits performance of the footwear
3.1.3
inconformity with the design
situation when a product does not conform to the
reference sample or drawing which both parties have
agreeagreed upon
drawing product
2 © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Term and definition Examples
3.1.4
mildewing
presence of mould
infecting process by microorganisms on material at any
part of the footwear infected by microorganisms
3.1.5
non-compliant box
shoe box that does not conform with the footwear
inside
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Term and definition Examples
3.1.6
poor printing
printing on footwear that is incomplete or unclear
3.1.7
soiled shoe
shoe with dirt or adhesive mark on the upper, lining or
sides of the sole due to careless handinghandling or
cleaning
4 © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Term and definition Examples
3.1.8
spue
white frost-like layer that appears on the surface of
footwear
3.1.9
weave fault
defect that reduces the expected performance of the
fabric
Note 1 to entry: Related defects are described in
ISO 8498 and ISO 8499.
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
3.2 Defects in materials aspects
Term and definition Examples
3.2.1
air hole
small hole which develops in the colloid structure of
materials
3.2.2
colour migration
discolouration caused by movement of colour from one
material to another
6 © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Term and definition Examples
3.2.3
crazing
cracks in the coating of upper materials
3.2.4
discolouration
staining or fading of the original material colour, either
in discrete areas or across the whole product
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Term and definition Examples
3.2.5
impurity
small particles that do not belong to the original
formulation and show on the material
3.2.6
pit
small hole in the surface of footwear
8 © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Term and definition Examples
3.2.7
shade variation
differences within materials that causescause a
difference in the shade of the finished footwear
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Term and definition Examples
3.2.8
sulfur blooming
yellow or white layer that appears on the surface of
rubber materials
10 © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
3.3 Defects in components
3.3.1 Defects in upper
TermsTerm and definitionsdefinition Examples
3.3.1.1
broken folding
folding of upper over the edge that has broken during
the making or wearing process
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
3.3.1.2
crease on the upper
wrinkles on the upper area of footwear due to poor
sewing process
12 © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
3.3.1.3
delamination of upper
separation of upper into its constituent layers, either in
whole or in part
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
3.3.1.4
exposed lasting margin
scoured lasting margin of the upper that is exposed
above the lasting edge
14 © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
3.3.1.5
grain crack
grain surface of leather in upper that is split or cracked,
or on which a rupture pattern has developed
3.3.1.6
wrinkled leather
loose grain
grain whose attachment to
corium has been eroded, giving rise to pronounced
wrinkles when leather is bent, grain inside
[SOURCE: ISO 15115:2019, 3.55], modified — the
preferred term “wrinkled leather” has been added.]
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
3.3.2 Defects in counter and toe puff
Term and definition Examples
3.3.2.1
collapsed counter
counter area of footwear that has collapsed due to the
stiffener either becoming detached or weakened
16 © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Term and definition Examples
3.3.2.2
collapsed toe puff
toe that is distorted and buckled because the
reinforcement has collapsed within, leaving creases
and/or dents
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Term and definition Examples
3.3.2.3
uneven counter
counter edge that has become creased
Note 1 to entry: Uneven counter couldcan be due to
excessive force used during the lasting process or a poor
sewing process.
18 © ISO 2023 – All rights reserved
ISO/DIS PRF 20537:2023(E2024(en)
Term and definition Examples
3.3.2.4
uneven toe puff
toe puff of the shoe tha
...
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