ISO 22195-1:2023

Textiles - Determination of index ingredient from coloured textile - Part 1: Madder

This document specifies a test method which determines the index ingredient of chemicals in coloured fabric with madder.

Textiles — Détermination d'indicateurs d'ingrédients de textiles colorés — Partie 1: Garance

General Information

• Status: Published
• Publication Date: 02-Feb-2023
• ICS: 59.080.01 - Textiles in general
• Technical Committee: ISO/TC 38 - Textiles
• Drafting Committee: ISO/TC 38 - Textiles
• Current Stage: 6060 - International Standard published
• Start Date: 03-Feb-2023
• Due Date: 26-Mar-2023
• Completion Date: 03-Feb-2023

Relations

• Revises: ISO 22195-1:2020 - Textiles - Determination of index ingredient from coloured textiles - Part 1: Madder
• Effective Date: 06-Jun-2022

Overview

ISO 22195-1:2023 - Textiles - Determination of index ingredient from coloured textile - Part 1: Madder specifies a laboratory test method to detect and quantify the index ingredient alizarin from textiles dyed with madder (Rubia spp.). The standard covers sample preparation, extraction, chromatographic analysis (LC‑MS or GC‑MS), calibration and calculation of alizarin concentration reported in mg/kg. The second edition (2023) updates the extraction solvent to a single organic solvent (methanol) and adds a GC‑MS analysis option alongside LC‑MS.

Key topics and technical requirements

• Scope: Identification and quantification of alizarin as the index marker for madder-dyed textiles. Detection of alizarin alone does not by itself prove exclusive use of madder (see note in principle).
• Reagents: HPLC-grade water (ISO 3696), methanol (extraction solvent), acetonitrile, formic acid (30% v/v), and a certified alizarin reference standard (≥95% purity recommended).
• Apparatus: Analytical balance (0.001 g resolution), ultrasonic bath (30 ± 2 °C), 50 ml borosilicate containers, 0.2 µm membrane filters, LC‑MS (ESI) and/or GC‑MS instruments.
• Procedure (high level):
  • Cut test specimen (~1 g, ~5×5 mm pieces), weigh, add 10 ml methanol.
  • Ultrasonic extraction for 20 ± 1 min at 30 ± 2 °C, cool and dilute if required.
  • Filter extract (0.2 µm) into vial and analyze by LC‑MS or GC‑MS.
• Calibration & quantification: Calibration points typically 1, 10, 20, 50 and 100 mg/L (laboratory-specific ranges allowed). For reliable quantification, correlation coefficient targets are specified (calibration fit R typically >0.995; R > 0.990 noted). Calculation converts solution concentration to mg/kg using the sample mass, extraction volume and dilution factor (standard formula provided).
• Reporting: Test report must reference ISO 22195-1:2023, identify specimen, give alizarin concentration (mg/kg), chromatographic conditions, deviations and test date.

Applications and users

ISO 22195-1:2023 is used by:

• Textile testing and quality control laboratories for verifying natural dye usage.
• Cultural heritage and conservation scientists analyzing historical textiles for madder dyes.
• Manufacturers and suppliers validating natural-dye claims on fabrics.
• Regulatory and forensic laboratories investigating provenance or authenticity of coloured textiles.

Practical applications include dye authentication, supply‑chain verification, conservation diagnostics, and research into natural colourants.

Related standards

• ISO 3696 - Water for analytical laboratory use (referenced for reagent quality).
• Other parts of the ISO 22195 series (see ISO website for the full set).

Keywords: ISO 22195-1:2023, madder, alizarin, textiles, natural colourant, LC‑MS, GC‑MS, HPLC, chromatographic analysis, index ingredient, extraction, calibration curve.

Standards Content (Sample)

INTERNATIONAL ISO
STANDARD 22195-1
Second edition
2023-02
Textiles — Determination of index
ingredient from coloured textile —
Part 1:
Madder
Textiles — Détermination d'indicateurs d'ingrédients de textiles
colorés —
Partie 1: Garance
Reference number
© ISO 2023
All rights reserved. Unless otherwise specified, or required in the context of its implementation, no part of this publication may
be reproduced or utilized otherwise in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, or posting on
the internet or an intranet, without prior written permission. Permission can be requested from either ISO at the address below
or ISO’s member body in the country of the requester.
ISO copyright office
CP 401 • Ch. de Blandonnet 8
CH-1214 Vernier, Geneva
Phone: [phone]
Email: [e-mail]
Website: www.iso.org
Published in Switzerland
ii
Contents Page
Foreword .iv
Introduction .v
1 Scope . 1
2 Normative references . 1
3 Terms and definitions . 1
4 Principle . 2
5 Reagent . 2
6 Apparatus . 2
7 Procedure .2
7.1 Standard preparation . 2
7.2 Preparation of test specimen . 2
7.3 Analysis . 3
7.4 Determination and calculation . 3
7.4.1 Determination of alizarin . 3
7.4.2 Calibration curve. 3
7.4.3 Calculation of alizarin . 3
8 Test report . 4
Annex A (informative) Example of test result . 5
iii
Foreword
ISO (the International Organization for Standardization) is a worldwide federation of national standards
bodies (ISO member bodies). The work of preparing International Standards is normally carried out
through ISO technical committees. Each member body interested in a subject for which a technical
committee has been established has the right to be represented on that committee. International
organizations, governmental and non-governmental, in liaison with ISO, also take part in the work.
ISO collaborates closely with the International Electrotechnical Commission (IEC) on all matters of
electrotechnical standardization.
The procedures used to develop this document and those intended for its further maintenance are
described in the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 1. In particular, the different approval criteria needed for the
different types of ISO documents should be noted. This document was drafted in accordance with the
editorial rules of the ISO/IEC Directives, Part 2 (see www.iso.org/directives).
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. ISO shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights. Details of
any patent rights identified during the development of the document will be in the Introduction and/or
on the ISO list of patent declarations received (see www.iso.org/patents).
Any trade name used in this document is information given for the convenience of users and does not
constitute an endorsement.
For an explanation of the voluntary nature of standards, the meaning of ISO specific terms and
expressions related to conformity assessment, as well as information about ISO's adherence to
the World Trade Organization (WTO) principles in the Technical Barriers to Trade (TBT) see
www.iso.org/iso/foreword.html.
This document was prepared by Technical Committee ISO/TC 38, Textiles.
This second edition cancels and replaces the first edition (ISO 22195-1:2020), which has been technically
revised.
The main changes are as follows:
— changed extraction solvent from co-solvent to single organic solvent;
— added GC-MS analysis method for the detection and qualification of index material.
A list of all parts in the ISO 22195 series can be found on the ISO website.
Any feedback or questions on this document should be directed to the user’s national standards body. A
complete listing of these bodies can be found at www.iso.org/members.html.
iv
Introduction
There is no doubt that dyeing plays the most important role in expressing the colour of clothes. Until
the invention of synthetic dyes capable of expressing diverse colours, materials obtained from nature
to dye fabric have been used. Typically, colourants were obtained from plants or various materials were
extracted from minerals or insects. When dyeing fabrics using materials derived from these natural
substances, it becomes necessary to identify which substances the colourant was derived from. In other
words, there has been a demand to confirm whether a fabric is dyed using a natural substance.
A test method is developed to identify which types of natural substances have been used.
v
INTERNATIONAL STANDARD ISO 22195-1:2023(E)
Textiles — Determination of index ingredient from
coloured textile —
Part 1:
Madder
1 Scope
This document specifies a test method which determines the index ingredient of chemicals in coloured
fabric with madder.
2 Normative references
The following document is referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
ISO 3696, Water for analytical laboratory use — Specification and test methods
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
ISO and IEC maintain terminological databases for use in standardization at the following addresses:
— ISO Online browsing platform: available at https:// www .iso .org/ obp
— IEC Electropedia: available at https:// www .electropedia .org/
3.1
madder
common name for Rubia which is a genus of flowering plants in the Rubiaceae family
Note 1 to entry: Rubia is a genus of flowering plants in the Rubiaceae family. The genus and its best-known
species are commonly known as madder, e.g. Rubiatinctorum (common madder), Rubiaperegrina (wild madder),
and Rubiacordifolia (Indian madder). The plant's roots contain an anthraquinone compound called alizarin and
glycosides that gives red colour to the dyed textile. Alizarin is the major dye obtained from Rubiatinctorum and
may be got in very small amounts from the other species. Purpurin and its precursors are major dye compounds
obtained from the other tw
...