Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cord - Safety requirements and test methods

This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for accessory cord comprising a core and a sheath, supplied on a drum or in separate lengths, for use in mountaineering including climbing.

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Reepschnur - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Diese Europäische Norm legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren fest für Reepschnüre
mit einem Kern und einem Mantel, die auf Trommeln oder in separaten Längen angeboten und beim
Bergsteigen einschließlich Klettern verwendet werden.

Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordelette - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai

La présente Norme européenne spécifie les exigences de sécurité et les méthodes d'essai relatives aux cordelettes constituées d'une âme et d'une gaine, fournies sur tambours ou en longueurs séparées, utilisées en alpinisme et en escalade.

Gorniška oprema - Pomožna vrv - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode

General Information

Status
Withdrawn
Publication Date
28-Feb-2007
Withdrawal Date
12-Jan-2015
Technical Committee
Current Stage
9900 - Withdrawal (Adopted Project)
Start Date
12-Jan-2015
Due Date
04-Feb-2015
Completion Date
13-Jan-2015

Relations

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Standards Content (Sample)

SLOVENSKI STANDARD
SIST EN 564:2007
01-marec-2007
1DGRPHãþD
SIST EN 564:1998
Gorniška oprema - Pomožna vrv - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cord - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Reepschnur - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordelette - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes
d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 564:2006
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
SIST EN 564:2007 en
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

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EUROPEAN STANDARD
EN 564
NORME EUROPÉENNE
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
December 2006
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 564:1997
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cord - Safety
requirements and test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordelette - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Reepschnur -
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 25 October 2006.
CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this European
Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references concerning such national
standards may be obtained on application to the Central Secretariat or to any CEN member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by translation
under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Central Secretariat has the same status as the official
versions.
CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France,
Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania,
Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION
EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG
Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36  B-1050 Brussels
© 2006 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 564:2006: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

---------------------- Page: 2 ----------------------

EN 564:2006 (E)
Contents Page
Foreword.3
Introduction .4
1 Scope.5
2 Normative references.5
3 Terms and definitions .5
4 Safety requirements.5
4.1 Diameter.5
4.2 Tensile strength.6
4.3 Packaging.6
4.4 Mass per unit length.6
5 Test methods.6
5.1 Test sample.6
5.2 Conditioning.6
5.3 Diameter.7
5.4 Determination of tensile strength .7
5.5 Determination of mass per unit length.7
6 Marking.8
7 Information supplied by the manufacturer .8
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment.9
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential
Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.10

2

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EN 564:2006 (E)
Foreword
This document (EN 564:2006) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, playground
and other recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an identical
text or by endorsement, at the latest by June 2007, and conflicting national standards shall be withdrawn at
the latest by June 2007.
This document supersedes EN 564:1997.
This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the
European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.
For relationship with EU Directives, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document.
According to the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organizations of the following
countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Den-
mark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxem-
bourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzer-
land and United Kingdom.
3

---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------

EN 564:2006 (E)
Introduction
The text of this European Standard is based on the former UIAA-Standard G (Union Internationale des Asso-
ciations d'Alpinisme), which has been developed with international participation.
This European Standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
4

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EN 564:2006 (E)

1 Scope
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for accessory cord comprising a core
and a sheath, supplied on a drum or in separate lengths, for use in mountaineering including climbing.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated refer-
ences, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document
(including any amendments) applies.
EN ISO 139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139:2005)
EN ISO 2307:2005, Fibre ropes — Determination of certain physical and mechanical properties (ISO
2307:2005)
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following term and definition applies.
3.1
accessory cord
cord or rope, comprising a core and a sheath, that has a nominal diameter of 4 mm to 8 mm and is intended to
withstand forces, but not intended to absorb energy
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Diameter
The nominal diameter d shall be one of the values given in Table 1.
nom
The limit deviation between the actual value d and the given nominal diameter shall be not more than
eff
+ 0,5
( ) mm.
− 0,2
The actual diameter shall be determined according to 5.3.
5

----------
...

EUROPEAN STANDARD
DRAFT
prEN 564
NORME EUROPÉENNE

EUROPÄISCHE NORM

March 2005
ICS Will supersede EN 564:1997
English version
Mountaineering equipment - Accessory cord - Safety
requirements and test methods
Equipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Cordelette - Bergsteigerausrüstung - Reepschnur -
Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
This draft European Standard is submitted to CEN members for enquiry. It has been drawn up by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136.

If this draft becomes a European Standard, CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which
stipulate the conditions for giving this European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration.

This draft European Standard was established by CEN in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language
made by translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the Management Centre has the same
status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France,
Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia,
Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland and United Kingdom.

Warning : This document is not a European Standard. It is distributed for review and comments. It is subject to change without notice and
shall not be referred to as a European Standard.


EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

Management Centre: rue de Stassart, 36  B-1050 Brussels
© 2005 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. prEN 564:2005: E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

---------------------- Page: 1 ----------------------
prEN 564:2005 (E)
Contents Page
Foreword.3
Introduction .4
1 Scope .5
2 Normative references .5
3 Terms and definitions .5
4 Safety requirements .5
5 Test methods.6
6 Marking .7
7 Information to be supplied.8
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment.9
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the Essential
Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.10

2

---------------------- Page: 2 ----------------------
prEN 564:2005 (E)
Foreword
This document (prEN 564:2005) has been prepared by the Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports, play-
ground and other recreational equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This document is currently submitted to the CEN Enquiry.
This document will supersede EN 564:1997.
This document has been prepared under a mandate given to CEN by the European Commission and the
European Free Trade Association to support Essential Requirements of EU Directive 89/686/EEC.
For relationship with EU Directives, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this document.
3

---------------------- Page: 3 ----------------------
prEN 564:2005 (E)
Introduction
The text of this document is based on the former UIAA-Standard G (Union Internationale des Associations
d'Alpinisme), which has been developed with international participation.
This standard is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see annex A.
4

---------------------- Page: 4 ----------------------
prEN 564:2005 (E)
1 Scope
This European Standard specifies safety requirements and test methods for accessory cord comprising a core
and a sheath, supplied on a drum or in separate lengths, for use in mountaineering including climbing.
2 Normative references
The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this document. For dated refer-
ences, only the edition cited applies. For undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document
(including any amendments) applies.
EN 919:1995, Fibre ropes for general sevice — Determination of certain physical and mechanical properties.
EN 20139, Textiles — Standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing (ISO 139:1973).
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this European Standard, the following term and definition applies:
3.1
accessory cord
cord or rope, comprising a core and a sheath, that has a nominal diameter of 4 mm to 8 mm and is intended to
withstand forces, but not intended to absorb energy
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Diameter
The nominal diameter d shall be one of the values given in Table 1.
nom
The limit deviation between the actual value d and the given nominal diameter shall be not more than
eff
+ 0,5
mm.
− 0,2
Table 1 — Nominal diameter and minimum tensile strength
Nominal diameter Minimum tensile strength
d F
nom B min
mm kN
4  3,2
5  5,0
6  7,2
7  9,8
8 12,8


5

---------------------- Page: 5 ----------------------
prEN 564:2005 (E)
4.2 Tensile strength
4.2.1 The tensile strength of the accessory cord shall be not less than the value of F , calculated using
B
equation (1):
2
F = d f  (1)
B nom
where:
d is the nominal diameter in millimetres;
nom
2
f is 200 N/mm .
4.2.2 The minimum tensile strength of the accessory cord, F shall be as given in Table 1 for the appro-
Bmin
priate diameter.
4.3 Packaging
If accessory cord is supplied on a drum and consists of more than one piece, the ends of the pieces shall be
clearly visible and not joined together.
No testing required.
5 Test methods
5.1 Test sample
5.1.1 Carry out the tests described in 5.4 on a test sample of minimum length 8 000 mm.
5.1.2 Carry out the test described in 5.5 on a test sample of minimum length 2 000 mm.
5.2 Conditioning
Condition the test samples as
...

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