Mountaineering equipment - Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing - Safety requirements and test methods

This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for energy absorbing systems (EAS) for use on suitable via ferrata (e.g. EN 16869:2017), for users weighing not less than 40 kg (total weight without equipment) and no more than 120 kg (total weight including the equipment).
NOTE   This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.

Bergsteigerausrüstung - Fangstoßdämpfer für die Verwendung auf Klettersteigen (Via Ferrata) - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren

Dieses Dokument legt sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren für Fangstoßdämpfer (EAS, en: energy absorbing systems) fest zur Anwendung auf geeigneten Klettersteigen (z. B. EN 16869:2017) für Anwender, die nicht weniger als 40 kg (Gesamtgewicht ohne Ausrüstung) und nicht mehr als 120 kg (Gesamtgewicht einschließlich Ausrüstung) wiegen.
ANMERKUNG   Dieses Dokument ist eines aus einer Auswahl von Normen für Bergsteigerausrüstung, siehe Anhang A.

Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Systèmes absorbeurs d'énergie utilisés en via ferrata - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai

Le présent document spécifie les exigences relatives à la sécurité et les méthodes d’essai pour les systèmes absorbeurs d’énergie (SAE) destinés à être utilisés sur une via ferrata appropriée (par exemple, EN 16869:2017) par des pratiquants pesant au moins 40 kg (poids total sans l’équipement) et au plus 120 kg (poids total incluant l’équipement).
NOTE   Le présent document fait partie d’un ensemble de normes relatives à l’équipement d’alpinisme et d’escalade (voir l’Annexe A).

Gorniška oprema - Sistemi za absorpcijo energije pri zahtevnem varovanem planinstvu (via ferrata) - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode

Ta dokument določa varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode za sisteme za absorpcijo energije (EAS) pri zahtevnem varovanem planinstvu (via ferrata) v skladu s standardom EN 16869:2017, za uporabnike, starejše od 14 let, s težo med 40 kg (skupna teža brez opreme) in 120 kg (skupna teža z opremo).
OPOMBA:   Ta dokument je eden od sklopov standardov za gorniško opremo (glej dodatek A).

General Information

Status
Published
Public Enquiry End Date
30-Dec-2022
Publication Date
11-Aug-2024
Technical Committee
Current Stage
6060 - National Implementation/Publication (Adopted Project)
Start Date
19-Jul-2024
Due Date
23-Sep-2024
Completion Date
12-Aug-2024

Relations

Standard
SIST EN 958:2024
English language
23 pages
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Standards Content (Sample)


SLOVENSKI STANDARD
01-september-2024
Nadomešča:
SIST EN 958:2017
Gorniška oprema - Sistemi za absorpcijo energije pri zahtevnem varovanem
planinstvu (via ferrata) - Varnostne zahteve in preskusne metode
Mountaineering equipment - Energy absorbing systems for use in klettersteig (via
ferrata) climbing - Safety requirements and test methods
Bergsteigerausrüstung - Fangstoßdämpfer für die Verwendung auf Klettersteigen (Via
Ferrata) - Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und Prüfverfahren
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Systèmes absorbeurs d'énergie utilisés en via
ferrata - Exigences de sécurité et méthodes d'essai
Ta slovenski standard je istoveten z: EN 958:2024
ICS:
97.220.40 Oprema za športe na Outdoor and water sports
prostem in vodne športe equipment
2003-01.Slovenski inštitut za standardizacijo. Razmnoževanje celote ali delov tega standarda ni dovoljeno.

EN 958
EUROPEAN STANDARD
NORME EUROPÉENNE
June 2024
EUROPÄISCHE NORM
ICS 97.220.40 Supersedes EN 958:2017
English Version
Mountaineering equipment - Energy absorbing systems for
use in klettersteig (via ferrata) climbing - Safety
requirements and test methods
Équipement d'alpinisme et d'escalade - Systèmes Bergsteigerausrüstung - Fangstoßdämpfer für die
absorbeurs d'énergie utilisés en via ferrata - Exigences Verwendung auf Klettersteigen (Via Ferrata) -
de sécurité et méthodes d'essai Sicherheitstechnische Anforderungen und
Prüfverfahren
This European Standard was approved by CEN on 19 May 2024.

CEN members are bound to comply with the CEN/CENELEC Internal Regulations which stipulate the conditions for giving this
European Standard the status of a national standard without any alteration. Up-to-date lists and bibliographical references
concerning such national standards may be obtained on application to the CEN-CENELEC Management Centre or to any CEN
member.
This European Standard exists in three official versions (English, French, German). A version in any other language made by
translation under the responsibility of a CEN member into its own language and notified to the CEN-CENELEC Management
Centre has the same status as the official versions.

CEN members are the national standards bodies of Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia,
Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway,
Poland, Portugal, Republic of North Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and
United Kingdom.
EUROPEAN COMMITTEE FOR STANDARDIZATION
COMITÉ EUROPÉEN DE NORMALISATION

EUROPÄISCHES KOMITEE FÜR NORMUNG

CEN-CENELEC Management Centre: Rue de la Science 23, B-1040 Brussels
© 2024 CEN All rights of exploitation in any form and by any means reserved Ref. No. EN 958:2024 E
worldwide for CEN national Members.

Contents Page
European foreword . 4
1 Scope . 5
2 Normative references . 5
3 Terms and definitions . 5
4 Safety requirements . 7
4.1 Design . 7
4.1.1 Construction . 7
4.1.2 Connecting device . 8
4.1.3 Connection to the safety line . 8
4.1.4 Initial arrangement . 8
4.1.5 Rest attachment point . 8
4.2 Operation of the EAS . 8
4.2.1 General . 8
4.2.2 Force to initiate operation . 9
4.2.3 Dynamic performance . 9
4.2.4 Dynamic strength of the EAS under wet conditions . 9
4.3 Static strength of the energy absorbing system . 9
4.3.1 General . 9
4.3.2 Static strength of the whole system . 10
4.3.3 Breaking strength of the components of elasticated arms . 10
4.3.4 Breaking strength of the textile components of non-elasticated arms and harness
attachment point . 10
4.3.5 Energy absorber initiation force . 10
4.3.6 Breaking strength of the rest attachment point . 10
5 Test methods . 10
5.1 Design . 10
5.1.1 General . 10
5.1.2 Measurement of the distance between the two arm extremities . 10
5.1.3 Measurement of the overall length of the EAS . 10
5.1.4 Elastic arm static elongation method . 11
5.2 Operation tests . 11
5.2.1 General . 11
5.2.2 Conditioning and test conditions for energy absorbing systems with textile
components . 11
5.2.3 Apparatus . 11
5.2.4 Dynamic strength tests . 14
5.3 Static strength and fatigue tests . 16
5.3.1 Determination of static strength of the whole system . 16
5.3.2 Fatigue test for elasticated arms . 16
5.3.3 Breaking strength of the textile components of non-elasticated arms . 17
5.3.4 Breaking test of the rest attachment point . 17
6 Marking . 18
7 Manufacturer's instructions and information . 18
Annex A (informative) Standards on mountaineering equipment . 20
Annex ZA (informative) Relationship between this European Standard and the essential
requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 aimed to be covered . 22
Bibliography . 23
European foreword
This document (EN 958:2024) has been prepared by Technical Committee CEN/TC 136 “Sports,
playground and other recreational facilities and equipment”, the secretariat of which is held by DIN.
This European Standard shall be given the status of a national standard, either by publication of an
identical text or by endorsement, at the latest by December 2024, and conflicting national standards shall
be withdrawn at the latest by December 2024.
Attention is drawn to the possibility that some of the elements of this document may be the subject of
patent rights. CEN shall not be held responsible for identifying any or all such patent rights.
This document supersedes EN 958:2017.
a) in the scope, energy absorbing systems (EAS) according to this document have been limited to users
weighing not less than 40 kg (total weight without equipment) and no more than 120 kg (total weight
including the equipment) and the use is limited on via ferrata according to EN 16869:2017;
b) modification of the maximum impact force in 4.2.3 a);
c) modification of the mass in 4.2.3 b);
d) modification of the test apparatus and the test method for the dynamic performance;
e) the manufacturer’s instructions and information take into account the previous modifications, the
EAS disinfection and the progression in a rope party is also recommended for children.
This document has been prepared under a standardization request addressed to CEN by the European
Commission. The Standing Committee of the EFTA States subsequently approves these requests for its
Member States.
For the relationship with EU Legislation, see informative Annex ZA, which is an integral part of this
document.
Any feedback and questions on this document should be directed to the users’ national standards body.
A complete listing of these bodies can be found on the CEN website.
According to the CEN-CENELEC Internal Regulations, the national standards organisations of the
following countries are bound to implement this European Standard: Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Croatia,
Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Estonia, Finland, France, Germany, Greece, Hungary, Iceland, Ireland,
Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Norway, Poland, Portugal, Republic of North
Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, Switzerland, Türkiye and the United
Kingdom.
1 Scope
This document specifies safety requirements and test methods for energy absorbing systems (EAS) for
use on suitable via ferrata (e.g. EN 16869:2017), for users weighing not less than 40 kg (total weight
without equipment) and no more than 120 kg (total weight including the equipment).
NOTE This document is one of a package of standards for mountaineering equipment, see Annex A.
2 Normative references
The following documents are referred to in the text in such a way that some or all of their content
constitutes requirements of this document. For dated references, only the edition cited applies. For
undated references, the latest edition of the referenced document (including any amendments) applies.
EN 565:2017, Mountaineering equipment — Tape — Safety requirements and test methods
EN 892:2012+A3:2023, Mountaineering equipment — Dynamic mountaineering ropes — Safety
requirements and test methods
EN 1891:1998, Personal protective equipment for the prevention of falls from a height — Low stretch
kernmantel ropes
EN 12275:2013, Mountaineering equipment — Connectors — Safety requirements and test methods
EN ISO 2307:2019, Fibre ropes — Determination of certain physical and mechanical properties
(ISO 2307:2019)
ISO 6487:2015 , Road vehicles — Measurement techniques in impact tests — Instrumentation
ISO 7000:2019, Graphical symbols for use on equipment — Registered symbols
3 Terms and definitions
For the purposes of this document, the following terms and definitions apply.
3.1
via ferrata
route, generally on rocky terrain, consisting of a fixed climbing installation including a safety line where
the user is not supervised
[SOURCE: EN 16869:2017, 3.1]
Note 1 to entry: The mere presence of a wire cable/rope on a mountain route does not constitute a via ferrata
(e.g. Hörnli Ridge on Matterhorn).
3.2
safety line
flexible or rigid, horizontal, vertical or sloping, continuous or discontinuous installation, used as
protection against fall from a height and possible progression aid
[SOURCE: EN 16869:2017, 3.4]
As impacted by ISO 6487:2015/AMD 1:2017.
3.3
energy absorbing system
EAS
device connecting the climber to the safety line, using an energy absorber to limit the impact forces on
the climber and the fixed installation
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
3.4
energy absorber
part of the EAS which limits the impact force during a climber's fall
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
3.5
braking length
increase in the distance between the connection to the safety line and the connection to the harness after
the climber's fall
3.6
initial arrangement
original configuration of an un-activated energy absorber
3.7
arm
part of the EAS between the energy absorber and the connecting device to the safety line of the via ferrata;
an arm may be elasticated or non-elasticated
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
3.8
elasticated arm
arm with a static elongation of the arm material, as measured in 5.1.4, > 5 %
3.9
rest attachment point
part of the EAS intended to temporary connect the user via an additional connector to the safety line or
to the anchor points of the via ferrata to permit a rest of the climber
Note 1 to entry: See Figure 1.
3.10
extension lanyard
fibre rope, part of the test apparatus for the dynamic test of this document fibre rope characterized as
described in 5.2.3.3 and used for the purpose of dynamic testing as described in 5.2.4.3
Key
1 connecting device (to via ferrata) 4 rest attachment point
2 arm extremity 5 energy absorber
3 arm 6 harness attachment point (to climber)
Figure 1 — Example of an energy absorbing system
4 Safety requirements
4.1 Design
4.1.1 Construction
4.1.1.1 General
All load bearing connections shall be designed so that they cannot be altered or disassembled by the user,
with the exception of removable connecting devices. EAS shall not have any sharp or rough edges that
could cut, abrade, or cause injury to the user.
4.1.1.2 Distance between the two arm extremities
When measured in accordance with 5.1.2, the distance between the two extremities of the arms (without
connecting devices) shall be ≥ 1 000 mm, unless there is only a single arm.
4.1.1.3 Overall length of EAS
When measured in accordance with 5.1.3, the length of the energy absorbing system without connecting
devices shall be ≤ 1 500 mm.
4.1.1.4 Elastic arm elongation
When measured without connecting devices in accordance with 5.1.4, the elongation shall be > 5 %.
4.1.2 Connecting device
If the connecting device is a connector according to EN 12275:2013, it shall be a type K connector.
If an EAS is not fitted with a connector of type K according to EN 12275:2013, refer to the information
supplied by the manufacturer of the EAS (see Clause 7).
4.1.3 Connection to the safety line
There shall be at least two arms intended for attachment to the safety line, unless designed for a
continuous system which does not permit disconnection of the EAS from the safety line (except at entry
and exit points), where just one arm could be used.
4.1.4 Initial arrangement
The initial arrangement of the energy absorber shall be designed in such a way that it can easily be
checked by visual examination by the user.
4.1.5 Rest attachment point
The rest attachment point shall be designed to activate the energy absorber in the case of a fall in which
the user is connected to the anchor only by the rest attachment point.
4.2 Operation of the EAS
4.2.1 General
Table 1 summarizes the dynamic performance requirements of the EAS, which are described in detail in
4.2.3 to 4.2.4.
Table 1 — Summary of dynamic test requirements of the EAS
Symbol Test 1 Test 2 Test 3 Test 4 Test 5
M 40 kg 80 kg 80 kg 120 kg 120 kg
EAS wet or Dry Dry Dry Dry Wet
dry
Arm (s) The two arms The two arms If arms are the If arms are the Most
connected connected same, test only same, test constraining
one arm. only one arm. (configuration
with the
If not, test each If not, test
maximum
arm. each arm.
braking
length)
F 4 kN 6 kN 6 kN 6 kN 8 kN
max
L < 2 200 mm < 2 200 mm < 2 200 mm < 2 200 mm < 2 200 mm
max
M: rigid steel mass.
F : max. allowable impact force during dynamic test.
max
: max. braking length.
L
max
Note: Arms are the same if the same length, material, stitching and construction. Manufacturing
tolerances are to be taken into account.
4.2.2 Force to initiate operation
When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.2, the static force to initiate operation of the EAS shall be greater
than 1,3 kN (see Table 2).
4.2.3 Dynamic performance
The requirements of the dynamic tests 1, 2, 3, and 4 shall be fulfilled (see Table 1).
a) When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.3 with a rigid steel mass of 40 kg the maximum impact force
shall not exceed 4 kN and the maximum braking length shall not exceed 2 200 mm.
b) When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.3 with a rigid steel mass of 80 kg the maximum impact force
shall not exceed 6 kN and the maximum braking length shall not exceed 2 200 mm.
c) When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.3 with a rigid steel mass of 120 kg the maximum impact force
shall not exceed 6 kN and the maximum braking length shall not exceed 2 200 mm.
4.2.4 Dynamic strength of the EAS under wet conditions
After conditioning the selected sample according to 5.2.4.4, when tested in accordance with 5.2.4.3, using
a rigid steel mass of 120 kg, the maximum impact force shall not exceed 8 kN, and the maximum braking
length shall not exceed 2 200 mm.
4.3 Static strength of the energy absorbing system
4.3.1 General
Table 2 summarizes the static strength requirements of the EAS, which are described in detail in 4.3.2 to
4.3.5.
Table 2 — Summary of static test requirements of the EAS
Symbol Minimum static strength
kN
F 1,3
init
F 12
stat
F 12
stat-elast arm
F 15
stat non-elast arm
F 12
rest ap
F : minimum static strength to initiate operation
init
F : minimum static strength of whole system after dynamic tests
stat
F : minimum static strength after fatigue test of elasticated arm
stat-elast arm
F : minimum static strength of non-elastic arm
stat non-elast arm
F : minimum static strength of rest attachment point
rest ap
4.3.2 Static strength of the whole system
When tested in accordance with 5.3.1 after being subjected to the dynamic test in accordance with 5.2.4.3,
the EAS shall withstand a static force greater than 12 kN (see Table 2).
4.3.3 Breaking strength of the components of elasticated arms
The decrease of breaking strength after the fatigue test in accordance with 5.3.2.2 and 5.3.2.3 compared
to the breaking strength when new shall be ≤ 30 % and the breaking strength shall be > 12 kN (see
Table 2).
All elasticated arms shall be checked unless the manufacturer states that the elasticated arms are
manufactured from the same material, and have identical strengths, performance, design and
construction.
4.3.4 Breaking strength of the textile components of non-elasticated arms and harness
attachment point
Every textile component of non-elasticated arms and harness attachment point shall withstand a static
force greater than 15 kN without breakage when tested in accordance with 5.3.3 (see Table 2).
4.3.5 Energy absorber initiation force
When tested in accordance with 5.2.4.2 the initiation forc
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